Choosing Accessories by Pump Type – Submersible, Surface, or Circulation
Choosing accessories according to pump type – submersible, surface or circulation
If you have ever dealt with the installation of a pump and wanted to buy accessories for it, you probably encountered a problem: the range is huge, most products look similar and salespeople in regular stores can hardly recommend anything specific. Yet the choice of the right accessories is not a detail – it is a fundamental prerequisite for the pump to function reliably, safely and for a long time. An incorrect cable clamp can cause the pump to fall to the bottom of the well. An unsuitable check valve can ruin the entire hydraulic circuit. An underestimated pressure seal can devalue the installation of a circulation pump in central heating.
In this article, we will look at the topic systematically – according to the three main types of pumps that occur most frequently in practice. For each type, we will explain which accessories are essential, which are optional, and where mistakes are most commonly made. If you are looking for a specific installation guide or a comparison of materials, also see other parts of our Knowledge Center – for example, Installation of pump accessories step by step – a guide for DIY enthusiasts or Common mistakes in the installation of pump accessories and how to avoid them.
Why the pump type matters more than anything else
Pumps may seem like simple devices at first glance: they suck in water and pump it out. But the way they do it, where they work and in what environment, differs radically between different types. A submersible pump works submerged in the medium it is pumping – typically in a well or in a tank. A surface pump stands above the water source and draws the medium from below. A circulation pump does not actually pump water in the true sense of the word – it only moves it in a closed circuit, for example in a central heating system or underfloor heating.
These differences lead to completely different requirements for accessories. What works for a surface pump has no place at all for a submersible one, and what is key for a circulation pump simply does not exist for well pumps. So if you want to buy accessories for a pump, the first question is always: What type of pump do I have or will I have?
Accessories for submersible pumps – safety and reliability at depth
Submersible pumps represent the most complex category in terms of accessories. The reason is simple: the device works in a place where you usually cannot see it, where it is difficult to reach and where any failure (pump falling to the bottom, jamming, cable breakage) can mean a serious problem. Therefore, accessories for submersible pumps are literally a matter of the entire installation's lifespan.
Suspension system – the basis of every well installation
The most important part of the installation of a submersible pump is the suspension system. The pump must be securely suspended in the well or shaft so that:
- it cannot fall to the bottom (where it could pick up mud or get stuck),
- there is enough space for the suction opening,
- it can be easily pulled to the surface for service or replacement,
- it does not transfer vibrations to the pipe and well structure.
The basis of the suspension system is a stainless steel rope on which the pump hangs. The diameter and load capacity of the rope must correspond to the weight of the pump plus the weight of the water column in the discharge pipe. A rule of thumb from practice: the rope should have a load capacity of at least five times the total load. If the pump weighs 8 kg and the discharge pipe with water adds another 4 kg, you need a rope with a minimum load capacity of 60 kg – and preferably more. More detailed information on dimensioning can be found in the topic What diameter and load capacity does the cable clamp need for your pump.
A critical component of the entire suspension system are the cable clamps. It is precisely here that savings are often made in the wrong place. A common galvanized clamp looks the same as a stainless steel one, costs less and at first glance performs the same function. The difference becomes apparent after two to three years in the humid environment of the well. A galvanized clamp will rust, lose strength and in the worst case will loosen – with consequences you do not want to consider. Therefore, we recommend only stainless steel versions. You can rely on the stainless steel cable clamp even after years in a wet, aggressive environment. More about the comparison of materials can be found in the article Stainless steel vs. galvanized clamps and couplings – which ones last longer.
Every installation of a submersible pump should have at least two cable clamps at each rope connection – usually four clamps in total (two at the surface anchoring, two at the pump attachment). Using the correct number and tightening them properly is the basis. Details on installation are discussed in the topic How to properly secure the pump in the well using a cable clamp and suspension system.
Check valve on submersible pump
The second key component is the check valve. Without it, after each pump shutdown, the entire column of water in the discharge pipe returns back – the pump must overcome the full water pressure again at startup, which dramatically shortens its lifespan and overloads the electric motor. The check valve should be installed directly on the pump's discharge nozzle, before any other valve.
In practice, we encounter two types: gravity (weight-loaded) and spring-loaded. For well applications, the spring-loaded type is better – it operates reliably even in a vertical position and better withstands hydraulic shocks. Pay attention to the sealing material: NBR rubber can withstand contact with clean water for years, but in the case of high content of aggressive substances (manganates, iron), EPDM or stainless steel is better.
Electrical accessories for submersible pumps
Submersible pumps are electrical devices operating in a wet environment – this imposes exceptional demands on electrical accessories. An extension cord (if needed) must be dimensioned for the pump's power with sufficient reserve – an undersized cable overheats, causes overloads, and can be the cause of motor failure. Cable connectors must be waterproof, ideally crimped or epoxy sealed, not just a standard tape.
A very practical accessory is a float switch (float). It automatically turns off the pump when the water level drops below a critical level, thus preventing dry running – one of the most common causes of pump failure. Some modern pumps have built-in protection, while for older models, an external float switch is absolutely recommended.
Accessories for surface pumps – from suction pipe to pressure tank
Surface pumps are installed on the surface – in a pump house, technical room, or basement. Their accessories are therefore largely mechanical (pipes, valves, filters) and accessible for routine inspection and maintenance. Despite this, there are typical errors and underestimated components even here.
Suction filter and strainer
A surface pump draws water from below – from a tank, well, or water source. At the end of the suction pipe, there must be a strainer with an integrated check valve. Without it, the pipe drains after the pump stops and must be refilled (primed) again at the next start. The strainer prevents water from flowing back into the source and also filters out coarse impurities.
A finer filter should also be installed before the pump (on the pressure side), especially if the water in the source is contaminated. A clogged pump mechanism due to dry running is the second most common cause of premature failure.
Pressure tank – why it is essential and how to size it
If a surface pump supplies water to a household (not just filling a tank), a pressure tank is an absolute necessity. Without it, the pump starts every time a tap is opened – even for a second. In normal household use, this can be 50–100 starts per day, which an electric motor typically lasts 1–3 years instead of 10–15 years.
A pressure tank functions as a hydraulic reservoir: an air bladder inside the tank maintains pressure in the system even after the pump stops. The pump starts only when the pressure drops below the set lower limit (typically 1.5–2.0 bar) and stops when the upper limit is reached (typically 3.0–4.0 bar). The tank volume depends on the number of outlets and the pump power – for a typical family home with a single pump up to 1 kW, a 24-liter tank is sufficient; for larger installations, 50–100 liters is recommended.
Pressure switch and pressure gauge
A pressure switch (pressostat) is a device that automatically turns the pump on and off according to the pressure in the system. Without it, the pump would have to be controlled manually or via a timer. Most surface pumps for household use have a pressure switch either integrated or included in the basic installation. Setting the switching pressures is done mechanically (via a screw) or electronically – depending on the model. A pressure gauge is a simple device in itself, but an invaluable tool for diagnostics: if the pressure in the system fluctuates, the pressure gauge will show it immediately.
Accessories for circulation pumps – precision and hydraulic balance
Circulation pumps operate in a closed hydraulic loop. Their task is to ensure the required flow of heat transfer fluid (water or antifreeze mixture) through the heating system with minimal energy consumption. Accessories for circulation pumps are therefore completely different in nature from those in well applications – it is not about the safety of the device's position, but about hydraulic precision and the thermal performance of the entire system.
Closing valves and service isolation valve
Every circulation pump should be installed between two closing valves. The reason is purely practical: when replacing the pump (which happens at least once in its 10–15 year lifespan), it is sufficient to close both valves and replace the pump without the need to drain the entire system. The valves must be certified for the maximum temperature of the medium – in heating systems typically up to 110–120 °C. Using standard cold-water valves is a mistake that will manifest in leaks and gasket deformation within 2–3 years.
Drain and air vent valve
Air in the central heating system is the enemy of the circulation pump. Air bubbles cause cavitation (vibrations, noise, erosion of the impeller), reduce flow efficiency, and in extreme cases can lead to complete flow blockage in a certain branch. Therefore, an automatic air vent is installed at every circulation pump – ideally directly on the pump or in its immediate vicinity, at the highest point of the route. Manual air vent valves are a backup during the first filling of the system.
Ball valve with threaded connection – a comfortable solution
In modern heating installations, a combined service valve – so-called "valve" with an integrated ball valve and a screw connection for quick assembly – is commonly used. This component allows the pump to be removed from the pipe without tools – it is enough to open the valve, unscrew the pump, and replace it. For plumbers, this is a routine task, but for DIY enthusiasts, it can be a surprising solution that saves hours of work.
Expansion tank in the heating system
Although the expansion tank is not directly an accessory for the circulation pump, it is an inseparable part of any system where the pump is operating. Water expands when heated – and that volume has to go somewhere. Without an expansion tank, the pressure in the system would rise sharply when heated, safety valves would open, and the system would gradually drain. The volume of the expansion tank is calculated based on the water volume in the system and the maximum temperature difference – for a typical family home with floor heating, it is usually 12–25 liters.
Common accessories – what applies across all types
Despite the differences, there are several categories of accessories that are relevant for multiple types of pumps, although in different forms.
Seals and fittings
Every pump has several connections to the piping. The quality of the seals at these points determines whether the installation will be maintenance-free or if you will be sealing leaks every two years. For hot water in heating (up to 110 °C), use only PTFE tape or hemp rope with graphite-based paste – standard Teflon (white tape) hardens at higher temperatures, loses elasticity, and cracks. For cold water and well applications, standard Teflon tape is sufficient, but threaded seals should be checked at least once a year.
Electrical protection components
All pumps are electrical appliances and all require adequate electrical protection. A motor circuit breaker (or a combination of a circuit breaker and a thermal relay) protects the motor from overheating and short circuits. For submersible pumps in the garden, we recommend a residual current device (RCCB, 30 mA) – this is a safety component, not just a convenience. A control panel or a box with automatic control (start, stop, dry-run protection) is an investment that pays off in the extended lifespan of the pump.
Adapters, reducers and couplings
In practice, it often happens that a new pump has a different connection size than the original one. Here, brass or stainless steel reducers and adapters come into play. Pay attention to material compatibility: brass and galvanized steel in contact with water form a galvanic cell that accelerates corrosion. For wells and outdoor installations, always prefer stainless steel or high-quality PP plastic.
Practical scenarios from everyday practice
Scenario 1 – A well pump stopped pumping water after one year. The customer bought a cheap pump and cheap galvanized clamps. After one year in the well, the clamps rusted, the rope loosened, the pump dropped to the bottom of the well, and it was sucking mud. Failure of the impeller. Solution: pulling the pump out (by the cable – fortunately, it lasted), replacing the pump and the entire suspension system. Cost of "savings" on the clamps: replacing the pump for 400–600 €. A proper stainless steel rope clamp costs only a fraction of that amount.
Scenario 2 – A circulation pump in the heating system is noisy and vibrating. The customer replaced the circulation pump himself, without air venting. Air in the system caused cavitation. After three months, the pump made a loud noise. Solution: venting the system, setting the correct pressure in the expansion tank. After venting, silence, no faults – just the need for the correct installation procedure, which is covered in the topic Mounting accessories to the pump step by step.
Scenario 3 – A surface pump starts 80 times a day. The customer installed the pump without a pressure tank. The electric motor lasted 18 months. After installing a 24-liter pressure tank, the number of starts dropped to 6–8 per day, and the pump has been working without problems for years.
How to choose accessories – practical steps
When you buy accessories for a pump, we recommend following this procedure:
- Identify the type of pump – submersible, surface, circulation. This determines the entire selection.
- Find out the pump parameters – power, maximum pressure, maximum medium temperature, connection dimensions (threaded).
- Make a list of necessary accessories – for each type of pump, there is a minimum set without which the installation would not be safe or reliable.
- Choose materials according to the environment – wet well = stainless steel; central heating = certified for high temperatures; outdoor garden installation = UV and frost protection.
- Do not buy the cheapest versions of mechanical load-bearing components – this is where you save the most expensive.
More about the selection and evaluation of individual components can be found in the article How to choose the right accessories for a pump – what to pay attention to. If you are solving the long-term reliability of the installation, also read Corrosion and mechanical damage to pump accessories – causes, prevention and solutions and Maintenance and inspection of pump accessories – what and how often to check.
Most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use the same accessories for submersible and surface pumps?
Mostly not, or only partially. A check valve can be used with both, but the suspension system (rope, clamps) is exclusively for submersible pumps – surface pumps are mounted on a fixed base. A pressure tank is commonly used with surface pumps and in some systems with submersible pumps as well, but the sizing differs. Electrical accessories (circuit breaker, protector) are the same for both types.
How many rope clamps do I need for one submersible pump?
A minimum of four clamps: two for securing the rope at the well surface and two for attaching the rope to the pump. Each rope connection must have at least two clamps – one clamp cannot safely hold the load under dynamic stress (vibrations, sudden pulling). For heavier pumps (over 10 kg) or depths exceeding 30 meters, we recommend three clamps per connection.
Why is my circulation pump noisy shortly after installation?
The most common cause is air in the system – this is cavitation, the formation and implosion of air bubbles in the impeller. The solution is thorough system air venting: manually using a vent valve on each radiator and on the pump itself, or installing an automatic air vent. If the noise persists after venting, the issue may be an improperly sized pump or hydraulic imbalance in the system.
Is a pressure tank necessary if I have a submersible pump?
For a submersible pump supplying drinking water to a household, a pressure tank is just as important as with a surface pump. Without it, the pump will start every time a tap is opened, which will shorten its lifespan. If the submersible pump only fills a tank (without directly feeding the distribution system), a pressure tank is not needed – the control is handled by a float valve in the tank.
What material should I choose for accessories if the well water is aggressive?
If the water contains high levels of iron, manganese, or has a low pH (below 6.5), galvanized and brass components corrode significantly faster. In such cases, recommended materials are stainless steel (AISI 304 for most cases, AISI 316 for more aggressive environments) and certified plastics (PP, POM). Rope clamps, check valves, and couplings should be made of stainless steel. Before selecting accessories, have the water tested – it is an investment that will save you from unnecessary system replacements.
Can accessories for the pump be installed by oneself, or is a professional needed?
Most mechanical accessories (rope, clamps, valves, filters) can be installed by oneself if the correct procedure is followed. Electrical wiring and work on the distribution panel should be done by a qualified electrician – this is mandatory, especially for submersible pumps operating in water. A detailed installation procedure can be found in the topic Step-by-step installation of pump accessories – a guide for DIY enthusiasts. If you are unsure about the selection or procedure, also check Common questions about pump accessories – answers to the most frequently encountered issues.
Conclusion – invest in accessories, not in repairs
Pump accessories are an area where savings are often made in the wrong places in practice. The result is premature failures, expensive service interventions, and in the worst case, safety risks. The basic rule is simple: dimension accessories with a margin, choose the right materials for the environment, and do not assemble the installation from the cheapest components, where a mistake costs ten times more than the savings.
If you are unsure what accessories you need for your specific pump, start from the basics – identify the pump type, determine its parameters, and compile a complete list of necessary components. This article has provided an overview; specific products, dimensions, and technical specifications can be found directly in the Pump Accessories category on Atria.sk.
Do you have a question about this topic?
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