Frequently Asked Questions about Viking Water Taps
Common questions about Viking taps – complete guide
Over the years of working with customers renovating bathrooms or changing taps in the kitchen, the same questions keep coming up again and again. Some are straightforward and have clear answers, while others depend on the specific situation. In this article, I have decided to collect all the most common questions about Viking taps and answer them the way I would in a personal conversation – without unnecessary fluff, with specific numbers and practical advice. If you are interested in a more comprehensive view on choosing taps, also read the article How to choose Viking taps for your bathroom and kitchen.
Are Viking taps suitable for low water pressure?
This is one of the most common questions we receive from customers in panel houses or older family homes with screw-type water tanks. The answer depends on the specific model and the actual water pressure.
Standard Viking taps are designed for operating pressure in the range of 0.5 to 10 bar. Most apartments in Slovakia operate at a pressure of 2.5 to 4 bar, which is an ideal range for these taps. Problems start when the pressure drops below 1 bar – this can happen, for example, in houses supplied by a gravity tank, where the height difference between the tank and the tap is not sufficient for adequate flow.
At pressures below 0.5 bar, the main issue is with the thermostatic tap, which has a cartridge with a built-in thermostatic insert – this requires a minimum pressure difference between cold and hot water of at least 0.5 bar for reliable regulation. A simple lever tap without a thermostat works much better at low pressure.
In practice: if you live in an old family home with a water tank in the basement or a pressure tank with reduced pressure, measure the actual pressure before buying a thermostatic Viking tap – attach a manometer to the shut-off valve under the sink. If the pressure is lower than 1 bar, choose a lever tap instead, or consider installing a pressure pump.
What is the difference between lever and thermostatic Viking taps?
A lever tap has one control (lever) with which you regulate both the flow and the water temperature at the same time. The mixing of cold and hot water takes place in a cartridge with ceramic plates – you turn the lever to the left (warmer) or to the right (colder) and up/down to regulate the flow. It is a simple, reliable and cheaper solution that suits the vast majority of households.
A thermostatic Viking tap has two separate control elements: one for setting the temperature and another for regulating the flow. Once you set the temperature, the tap remembers it and maintains it automatically – even if the pressure or water temperature in the pipes changes. This is a key advantage in homes with children or elderly people, where the risk of scalding is high. Most thermostatic models have a safety limit set at 38 °C, which must be actively overridden for higher temperatures.
A more detailed comparison can be found in the article Lever vs. thermostatic Viking taps: which one is suitable for your case. From practical experience: in households with small children (under 8 years old), I clearly recommend a thermostatic tap. In the kitchen, on the other hand, a lever tap – the temperature is always different depending on what you are doing at the moment.
Why is my new Viking tap dripping?
A dripping new tap is frustrating, but a solvable problem. From practice, I know several typical causes:
- Dirty cartridge: During the installation of new plumbing or after replacing a tap, dirt from the pipes (sand particles, metal shavings, lime) gets inside. The cartridge does not close completely and water leaks. Solution: shut off the water supply, remove the lever and cartridge, and rinse it under running water.
- Improper sealing of the connection: If water is dripping from the connection point of the hoses under the sink, the problem is with the thread sealing. You need to disconnect the hoses, replace the seals (rubber O-rings or Teflon tape), and tighten them again.
- Damaged cartridge: Rare, but in cheap models or after a mechanical impact during installation, the cartridge can be damaged. In such a case, you need to replace the cartridge – the procedure is described in the article Replacing seals and cartridges in Viking taps.
- Too high water pressure: At pressures above 6 bar, the tap may leak because the cartridge cannot close the flow completely. Solution: install a pressure reducing valve on the water supply.
What are the dimensions of Viking taps and what to check before purchasing?
This is a question where customers most often make mistakes. They buy a tap, come home, and find out that the hoses don't fit or the distance between the connections doesn't match the holes in the sink. Therefore, before clicking on the order, measure the following values:
- Distance between connections (center-to-center distance): The most common standard for sink and countertop taps is 150 mm (distance between the centers of the hot and cold water connections). Some bathroom taps have 100 mm or a fixed single connection. If you are replacing an old tap, measure the distance between the existing hoses.
- Diameter of the thread on the connections: The standard for most taps is G 3/8" (external thread) on the end of the supply hoses, which connect to the G 3/8" internal thread of the tap. Some older installations have G 1/2" – in this case, a reducer is needed.
- Diameter of the hole in the sink or tub: Single-hole taps require a hole of 32–35 mm (most commonly 35 mm), while three-hole taps require three holes with a 150 mm spacing and a diameter of 32–35 mm each.
- Height of the spout (aerator): Important especially for countertop taps – you must reach into a deep container under the spout. The standard height of the spout above the countertop is 170–250 mm, and a swivel spout has a reach of 180–220 mm.
Further details and dimension tables can be found in the article Dimensions and connections of Viking taps: what to check before purchasing.
Can I replace a Viking tap myself without a plumber?
Yes, replacing a tap is a common plumbing task that any handy DIYer with basic tools can handle. It is not a gas or electrical installation, so no legislation requires professional qualification. The whole job at the sink takes an experienced person 20–40 minutes.
What you will need:
- Adjustable wrench (or a set of wrenches) – for nuts 27 and 32 mm
- Sealing tape (Teflon) or rubber O-rings
- New connecting hoses (braided, length 30–40 cm for most installations)
- Screwdriver for the fixing nut of the tap
- Bucket and cloth (water will remain in the pipes)
The most important step: before any work, CLOSE the water supply valves under the sink or at the apartment's main shut-off valve. Then open the tap to drain the remaining water from the pipes. The full step-by-step procedure can be found in the article Installation of a Viking water tap step by step.
When to call a plumber: if the old supply valves are corroded and cannot be closed, if the thread on the supply is damaged, or if you want to install a wall-mounted tap (which requires drilling and working with the wall structure).
What is the lifespan of Viking taps?
With proper use and regular maintenance, Viking taps typically last 10–15 years, and better models even longer. A key factor is water quality. In areas with hard water (calcium content over 250 mg/l), the lifespan without regular cleaning and descaling is reduced to 6–8 years, as lime gradually clogs the cartridge and mesh filter.
What extends the lifespan:
- Regular descaling of the spout and aerator (every 6–12 months in hard water, every 2 years in soft water)
- Cleaning of the mesh filter at the connection point (every 12 months)
- Maintaining water pressure under 5 bar
- Gentle closing – do not force the lever when closing, the cartridge has an end position
- Cleaning the surface with mild products (no abrasive cleaners for chrome or special surfaces)
A detailed maintenance guide can be found in the article Cleaning and maintenance of Viking taps: how to extend their lifespan.
What do the energy-saving features of Viking taps mean?
Viking taps with the ECO label or energy-saving features include one or more of the following mechanisms:
Aerator with a flow restrictor: A small mesh insert at the end of the spout that injects air into the water stream. The result is the same subjective feeling of a full flow, but with reduced water consumption. A standard tap without a flow restrictor can have a flow of 12–15 l/min, while a quality water-saving aerator provides only 5–6 l/min. The difference adds up to thousands of liters per year.
Two-position cartridges (click-stop): The lever has a "stop" at half the flow when closing – if you want less water (hand washing), you open the lever to the first position, and for full flow, you intentionally open it further. This encourages users to stop at unnecessary high flow.
Cold Start cartridge: A special design where the middle position of the lever is set to cold water – hot water starts to mix only when the lever is turned to the left. Most people set the middle position for hand washing, which with a standard cartridge would trigger the boiler to heat water, even when it's not needed.
More about ecological and economic options can be found in the article Viking taps with water saving: ecological and economic options.
What is the warranty on Viking taps and what does it cover?
The warranty varies according to the specific model and series, but the standard warranty period for Viking taps is 2 years for manufacturing defects. Some premium series have an extended warranty of 5 years. It is important to know what the warranty covers and what it does not:
The warranty covers: manufacturing defects in the material, cartridge defects caused by the manufacturer, failure of seals without mechanical damage, peeling of the surface finish under normal use.
The warranty does NOT cover: damage caused by incorrect installation, damage from abrasive cleaning products, lime scale deposits and their consequences, mechanical damage (drop of the tap, forced closing), wear of the cartridge due to normal use after the warranty period has expired.
In practice: the most problems with the warranty arise from incorrect installation – over-tightened nuts, missing sealing in the connection thread, installation without closing the supply (pressure surge). If you are unsure about the installation, have the tap installed by a professional – it will save you complications.
What is the difference between chrome, black, and gold surface finishes?
Surface finish is not only an aesthetic issue but also a practical one. In terms of durability, the following applies:
Chrome: The classic, most durable surface finish. A galvanically applied layer of chrome is very hard (8–9 on the Mohs scale), resistant to chemicals, and will last for decades in a bathroom environment without problems. Disadvantage: water droplets and fingerprints are clearly visible. Easy to clean.
Black surface finish (Black): Usually a PVD coating (Physical Vapour Deposition) or powder coating. PVD is very durable – the same hardness as chrome. Powder coating is less durable, especially when in contact with aggressive cleaning agents. Black fixtures are more prone to visible water stains and require more frequent wiping dry.
Gold/brass surface finish: Also a PVD coating, applied on a brass or zinc base. Very sensitive to abrasive cleaning agents and acids (e.g., limescale remover) – never use acid on gold fixtures! Remove limescale only with a mild vinegar solution (1 part vinegar to 10 parts water) for a short time.
A detailed comparison can be found in the article Viking tap surface finishes: chrome, black, gold – what lasts in the bathroom.
Is it possible to buy spare parts for Viking taps?
Yes, and it is one of the practical advantages of the Viking brand. Available mainly are:
- Cartridges: The most common spare parts. The diameter of the cartridge for most Viking basin taps is 35 mm, for some smaller models 25 mm. Before ordering, check the diameter of the cartridge in your tap (just remove the lever and front cover).
- Aerators and perlators: Standard threads M22 or M24 – most aerators can be replaced with a universal type.
- Seals and O-rings: Rubber seals of various diameters for the connecting thread.
- Shower hose for the shower tap: Standard 1/2" threads, various lengths 150–200 cm.
What is usually not bought as a spare part: the body of the tap, the spout (outlet), ceramic plates separately. If the body of the tap is cracked or corroded, the entire tap must be replaced.
What is the noise level of Viking taps?
The noise level of a tap depends on two factors: water pressure and the construction of the cartridge. If the tap "sings" or makes a whistling sound when opening, it is most often due to:
- Too high water pressure: At pressure above 5 bar, water passing through the cartridge causes turbulence. Solution: install a pressure-reducing valve on the water supply.
- Clogged filter or aerator: A narrowed cross-section causes turbulence. Clean or replace the filter and aerator.
- Worn cartridge: Ceramic plates in an older cartridge may have micro-cracks that cause vibrations during flow. Solution: replace the cartridge.
New Viking taps should be practically silent at normal pressure (2–4 bar). If a new tap is noisy from the start, check the pressure and whether the inlet filter is clogged.
Can I use a Viking tap with an electric flow heater?
Yes, but with one important condition: flow water heaters usually have very low pressure at the outlet (some models only 0.2–0.5 bar), and the tap must be suitable for that. Standard taps are designed for the same or similar pressure of cold and hot water. If the pressure on the hot side is much lower, a thermostatic tap may have trouble regulating and a lever tap will mostly let out cold water.
Solution: if you have a pressure flow heater (modern types), there is no problem – they deliver hot water at the same pressure. If you have a non-pressure flow heater (older type, output directly into the atmosphere), you must use a special tap marked as "for non-pressure heaters", which has an open outlet on the hot side.
Why does brown or cloudy water come out when I turn on the tap?
This is not a problem of the tap itself, but of the piping. Cloudiness after replacing the tap or after a long period of inactivity (holiday, renovation) comes from the pipes. It is normal – you need to let the water run for a few minutes until the pipes are flushed. If the cloudiness persists for a long time or recurs regularly, there are two possible causes:
- Corrosion of old steel pipes – consider replacing the piping
- Contaminated municipal network – a temporary condition, contact the network operator
Long-term cloudy water damages the tap cartridge – fine solid particles act as an abrasive on the ceramic plates. If your water is consistently cloudy, consider installing a mechanical filter before the tap.
Most frequently asked questions by customers (FAQ)
How do I find out if my Viking tap is built-in or wall-mounted?
A built-in tap has the body hidden in the wall – you see only the covers, controls, and spout. It is mounted into a special box (enclosure) inside the wall. A wall-mounted tap has the entire body visible in front of the wall and is connected via hoses protruding from it. If you see only two rings (circles) on the tap at the wall and only the lever and spout protrude from them, it is a built-in installation.
Can I buy only the upper part of the tap (without the built-in box)?
Yes, with built-in taps, the embedded box (body that goes into the wall) and the upper set (controls, spout, covers) are usually sold separately. During renovation without demolition, you only need to replace the upper set – the box remains in the wall. Important: check compatibility with the manufacturer. A box from another manufacturer may not fit the Viking upper set.
Why does my Viking tap only let out cold water, even when the lever is turned to hot?
The most common cause is mixed hose connections – hot and cold are swapped. Check under the sink to see if the red hose goes to the red connection on the tap and the blue to the blue. Another possibility: the hot water supply valve is closed or the water heater is not working. If the hoses are correct and the valves are open, the problem may be in the cartridge itself (reversed installation during a previous replacement).
What is an aerator and how to clean it?
An aerator (aerator) is a small threaded body at the end of the tap outlet – you can see it when you look directly into the outlet. It contains several filters and an air channel that create a soft, even water flow. Cleaning: unscrew the aerator (sometimes by hand, sometimes a special key or a coin is needed), disassemble it and soak it in vinegar water for 30 minutes. Limescale deposits will dissolve. Rinse and reassemble. I recommend performing this procedure every 6–12 months in areas with hard water.
How do I know that the Viking tap cartridge is worn out and needs to be replaced?
Signs of a worn-out cartridge: the tap drips after being closed, temperature regulation is inaccurate (it cannot "hit" the correct temperature), the lever slides without resistance or, on the contrary, offers great resistance, it squeaks when moved. A standard cartridge will last 7–10 years with normal use (4–5 openings and closings per day). Replacement is a simple do-it-yourself repair – see the article Replacing the seal and cartridge in Viking taps.
What is the best way to remove limescale from a chrome Viking tap?
The most effective and at the same time safe method is to soak a cloth or paper in a 5% solution of citric acid (available in pharmacies) and apply it to the affected areas for 15–20 minutes. Then rinse with clean water and dry. Do not use hydrochloric acid (hydrochloric acid) or aggressive descaling agents used for boilers – they damage the chrome layer. For gold and black taps, use only a mild solution of white vinegar (1:10 with water) with a short contact time of up to 5 minutes.
Conclusion: Viking taps in practice – what you need to know in the end
Viking taps belong to the solid mid-range category, where you get real functionality at a reasonable price. Most of the common questions and problems that customers encounter have a simple technical explanation and an even simpler solution. Buying the right tap starts with measuring the distances of the connections before ordering, checking the water pressure and deciding whether you need a lever or thermostatic version. Installation is nothing that requires calling a tradesman if you have a bit of dexterity. And long tap life is ensured by regular cleaning of the aerator and replacing the cartridge once every few years.
For a complete overview of models, visit the section Viking taps, where you will find the current range including technical parameters of individual series.
Do you have a question about this topic?
Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your household? Write to us – we are happy to help.
