Viking Tap Dimensions and Connections: What to Check Before Buying
Viking taps dimensions and connections: what to check before purchasing
Purchasing a new tap may seem like a simple task at first glance – you choose a model you like, pay for it, and wait for delivery. In practice, however, it is something else. It is one of the most common sources of problems during bathroom and kitchen renovations: the customer receives a tap that looks exactly as they imagined, but when the plumber starts the installation, they find out that the outlet distance does not match, the thread has the wrong size, or the outlet height does not match the sink height. The result? Unnecessary costs for dismantling, waiting for the correct product, and delaying the entire renovation.
This article is a practical guide for anyone who wants to choose a Viking tap correctly the first time. We will go through all the dimensions, types of connections, outlet distances, and outlet heights that are relevant for standard installation in Slovak households. You will also find an overview of standards, practical tips from real customer orders, and descriptions of situations where a standard selection becomes complicated.
Why tap dimensions are so important – and where the most common mistakes occur
After years of practice, it is possible to create a fairly accurate list of situations where tap dimensions cause problems. The most common scenarios look like this:
- New tap, old installation: The customer replaces only the tap but leaves the original installation. If the pipes are embedded in the wall (so-called wall connection) with an axis distance of 150 mm, but the new tap has anchor points for 200 mm, a problem arises.
- Sink tap vs. kitchen tap: Many customers do not know that the outlet height of a sink tap is different from that of a kitchen sink. If they buy a kitchen tap for a bathroom sink, the outlet will be too high and the water will splash.
- Hole spacing in the sink: Some sinks have one hole, others have three. The tap must match the number and spacing of the holes in the sink.
- Supply thread: The older G 1/2" (inch) thread is standard, but in some older installations or imported equipment, a different thread profile may appear, which is not compatible without a reducer.
Therefore, it is necessary to measure and record several specific values before each purchase. Below we will go through each of them in detail.
Types of Viking tap connections and their parameters
Wall (wall-mounted) connection
Wall taps are connected directly to the outlet in the wall. The outlets – that is, the hose connections or drain nozzles – are embedded in the plaster and their position is fixed. This is where the most problems arise, as the customer cannot simply move the pipes in the wall.
The key parameter is the axis distance between outlets – this is the horizontal distance between the centers of the hot and cold outlets. The European standard, which also applies to Viking taps, is 150 mm. This value is defined in the EN 200 standard and practically all European taps with a wall connection follow it.
In older apartments, especially those built before 1990, you may encounter a different spacing – for example, 100 mm or 120 mm. These installations were typical for panel housing construction. If you have such a situation, there are two solutions: either use a tap with adjustable connections (eccentrics), or have the plumber modify the outlets.
Also important is the height of the outlets above the floor or above the top edge of the bath/sink. For bath taps, the outlets are usually placed 800 – 1 000 mm above the floor (depending on the height of the bath and the installation design). If you install a hand shower tap on the wall above the bath, the outlet height will affect the reach and comfort of use.
Connection via flexible hoses (bottom connection)
Taps for sinks, basins, or bidets are mostly equipped with a bottom connection. This means that the tap itself has outlet tubes or threaded connections at the bottom, to which flexible hoses (braided hoses) are connected to supply hot and cold water.
The standard thread on these hoses and on the taps themselves is G 1/2" (BSP) – an inch thread. This format is almost universal for the European market. The length of the flexible hoses typically ranges from 300 to 500 mm; when purchasing replacement hoses, you should measure the distance from the bottom of the tap to the water supply valve.
Some Viking taps have fixed supplies (rigid stainless steel tubes instead of hoses) – these are more durable and hygienic, but during installation they require more precise positioning of the tap in line with the supply.
Dimensions for installation into a sink or basin
Diameter of the mounting hole
Taps are mounted into a sink or basin through a pre-drilled or cast hole. The diameter of this hole must match the mounting flange of the tap.
There are two common standards:
- 35 mm – smaller diameter, used for more compact taps and some sinks
- 38 mm – larger diameter, today the most common standard for most medium and high-end taps
Always check the diameter of the hole in your sink or basin before purchasing. If you buy a sink and tap together, you will avoid problems. If you are only replacing the tap, measure the diameter of the hole with a caliper or at least estimate it with a ruler.
Practical example: a customer ordered a tap that required a 38 mm hole, but their ceramic sink had a 35 mm hole. Ceramic cannot be easily drilled to a larger diameter without the risk of cracking. The solution was to purchase a 35 mm diameter tap that matched the original hole. A seemingly trivial detail that cost the customer an extra week and return fees.
Thickness of the panel (mounting depth)
The mounting flange of the tap has a limited length of the threaded part that can be used to tighten the nut. This parameter – the so-called mounting thickness – determines how thick a material the tap can penetrate and still be securely fastened.
The standard installation thickness ranges from 1 – 40 mm (for standard basins) or 1 – 60 mm (for basins with extended mounting). Ceramic sinks and cast iron basins are usually thin (8 – 15 mm). Kitchen sinks made of stainless steel are typically 0.5 – 1.5 mm. Problems arise with wooden or concrete slabs or when mounting through multi-layered constructions (e.g., stone slab + base board).
Spout height (above the rim of the sink)
Spout height indicates how high above the rim of the sink the end of the tap is located, from which the water flows. This dimension directly affects the comfort of use and aesthetics.
Approximate values for different types:
- Low spout taps – spout height 100 – 150 mm: suitable for shallow sinks and small sinks next to the toilet
- Medium spout taps – spout height 150 – 200 mm: most commonly used for standard bathroom sinks with a depth of 150 – 180 mm
- High spout taps (tall/high spout) – spout height 250 – 350 mm and more: intended for deep sinks, free-standing basins on a pedestal, or design slab-mounted sinks, where the basin is large
If you choose a tap with a too short spout for a deep sink, the water will flow directly onto the wall of the sink instead of into the center, which is uncomfortable and unhygienic. Conversely, a spout that is too high for a flat sink will cause the water to splash out of the sink.
Spout reach (range) – an often overlooked parameter
Spout reach (in documentation referred to as "spout reach" or "outlet range") is the horizontal distance from the axis of the tap to the end of the spout. This dimension determines exactly where the water will fall into the sink or basin.
For standard basin taps, the spout reach ranges from 100 – 160 mm. For kitchen sink taps, where the sink is deeper and larger, it can be 160 – 250 mm. Swivel spouts (candle or rod type) on kitchen taps can range up to 270 – 300 mm.
Practical example from practice: a customer bought an elegant kitchen tap with a spout reach of 120 mm because they liked it, but their double sink had the mounting center at the back edge of the slab. The result was that the water fell onto the dividing wall of the sink and not into the basin. The correct choice would have been a spout reach of 180 – 200 mm, or a tap with a swivel arm.
Distance between holes for three-hole taps
Some sinks and kitchen basins have three pre-drilled holes: a central hole for the tap and two side holes for the hot and cold water inlets (or for control levers in the case of a three-hole tap). The distance between these holes is crucial.
The European standard for three-hole taps defines two common distances:
- Distance 150 mm (center – center): classic European standard, common in older installations
- Distance 200 mm (center – center): modern standard, common in larger sinks and some basins
Tap manufacturers usually indicate which distance a particular model is intended for, or they provide spacers that allow the position of the connection to be adjusted within a range of ±15 – 20 mm. If you are unsure, it is again necessary to directly measure the distance between the existing holes in the sink.
Threads and connection types – technical details that matter
G 1/2" thread – basic standard
Almost all common water taps on the Slovak market, including Viking taps, use the G 1/2" BSP (British Standard Pipe) thread. The outer diameter of this thread is 20.96 mm, with a pitch of 14 threads per inch. This thread is straight (cylindrical), not conical.
Flexible hoses, angle valves, and most fixtures in standard bathrooms and kitchens are dimensioned for this thread. If you encounter an older installation from before 1989, where the pipes are made of galvanized steel, the thread may still be in good condition, but wear or corrosion may require replacing the angle valve before installing a new tap.
G 3/4" thread – when it appears
The larger G 3/4" thread is not commonly found in basin taps and kitchen taps, but you may encounter it in the following cases:
- Bathtub taps with high flow rates
- Garden taps
- Connections to water heaters (boilers)
It is essential not to confuse G 1/2" and G 3/4" – these threads are mutually incompatible without a reducer, and attempting to forcefully screw them together will damage them.
Conical vs. cylindrical threads
BSP threads exist in two versions: cylindrical (BSPP, marked as "G") and conical (BSPT, marked as "R" or "Rc"). Cylindrical threads are sealed using a sealing ring (rubber or teflon), while conical threads are self-sealing by shape. Combining different systems can lead to water leakage. In practice, Viking taps are always equipped with cylindrical threads – it is important that the flexible hose and angle valve also conform to the same standard.
Tap height and overall dimensions – visual and spatial harmony
Alongside functional parameters, the overall height of the tap and its visual proportions in relation to the basin or sink also play a role. A tap with a lever or ball may be several centimeters higher in the raised position than in the basic position.
If there is a shelf assembly, a mirror with top lighting, or a wall cabinet above the tap, you must have enough space for the lever to move. The minimum recommended space between the top edge of the tap (in the raised lever position) and the obstacle is at least 50 – 80 mm.
The overall height of a standard lever tap for a basin typically ranges from 180 mm (low model) to 350 mm (high design model). Bathtub taps with a hand shower are taller, depending on the configuration – they can have a height of 250 – 400 mm.
Excenters and their role in replacing old taps
Excenters are short transition pieces – screws with an offset (eccentric) axial arrangement. They allow for compensating for the deviation of the position of the wall outlets from the ideal axial distance. Their adjustability is typically ±15 mm or ±20 mm, and some special excenters can reach up to ±25 mm.
They are used when replacing old taps with new ones, especially when the original installation does not have exactly 150 mm, but for example 130 mm or 170 mm. Excenters are screwed into the wall outlets, the tap is mounted on them, and by rotating them eccentrically, the correct position and axial distance can be achieved.
Important: excenters have a G 1/2" thread on both sides and usually come with sealing rings. Before purchasing, check whether the Viking tap you are interested in is equipped with excenters (some include them in the package, others do not and you need to buy them separately).
Viking taps for shower enclosures and bathtub assemblies – special dimensions
Shower and bathtub assemblies have their own logic of dimensions. In addition to the axial distance between the outlets (150 mm), there are other important parameters:
Mounting height of the shower valve
The shower valve (thermostatic or lever assembly for the shower) is mounted at a height that depends on the age and height of the user. The recommended height of the valve axis is:
- 800 – 1 000 mm above the floor for standard use
- 1 000 – 1 200 mm for tall individuals or design solutions
The height of a fixed shower (rainfall shower) is recommended to be at least 2 000 mm above the floor to accommodate taller individuals. A handheld shower (with a hose connector) is mounted near the valve, and its height depends on the hose length – the standard length is 1 500 mm, with 1 750 mm and 2 000 mm hoses also available.
Outlet placement into the bathtub
If the faucet is designed for both the bathtub and the shower (combined bathtub faucet), the outlet into the bathtub is located at the base of the faucet – at a height of approximately 100 – 150 mm from the edge of the tub. The switch between the outlet and the handheld shower is part of the faucet body. Before purchasing, check whether the outlet into the bathtub is aligned above the tub’s drain trap – an incorrect position will cause the water to fill the tub unevenly.
What to ask the seller or plumber before ordering
If you are unsure about technical specifications or planning a more complex renovation, there are several questions you should clarify in advance:
- What is the center-to-center distance between the outlets in my wall (if it is a wall-mounted connection)?
- What is the diameter of the mounting hole in my sink or countertop?
- What is the thickness of the surface through which the faucet will be mounted?
- What is the actual internal depth of my sink (from the edge to the bottom) – to estimate what type of spout I need?
- Is my installation using a quarter-turn valve G 1/2" or do I need a reducer?
- How many holes does my sink have – one or three?
If you are planning a bathroom renovation, we also recommend reading the article Installation of Viking water faucet step by step, where the entire installation process is described in detail, including checking the seals and adjusting the flow after installation.
Practical tips from real customer cases
From experience, we know that the following situations often repeat themselves:
Scenario 1 – Renovation of an old bathroom in a panel building: The customer wanted to replace an old three-hole faucet with a modern lever-style one. The original outlets had a center-to-center distance of 130 mm. Solution: a new faucet with spacers that compensate for the difference. The spacers were purchased separately, as the faucet did not include them in the package.
Scenario 2 – New sink with one hole, originally planned for a three-hole faucet: The customer ordered a three-hole faucet, but the new sink had only one hole. He had to switch to a single-hole lever faucet. Lesson: always consult the type of faucet with the type of sink at the same time.
Scenario 3 – Kitchen sink with dimensions 800 × 500 mm, two basins: The customer bought a faucet with a 130 mm spout, but the sink had a mounting distance of 80 mm from the rear edge. The water was falling onto the sloped back wall of the sink. The correct choice was a 220 mm spout or a faucet with a 180° swivel spout.
Scenario 4 – Freestanding sink on a leg with a deep basin: The customer bought a standard low faucet with a 120 mm spout, but the sink’s basin had a depth of 180 mm. The result was that the spout pointed directly at the edge of the basin. Solution: a tall faucet with a spout height of 250 mm or more.
These examples show that every detail counts. For more information on choosing the right model according to the type of bathroom, see the article How to choose Viking water faucets for your bathroom and kitchen, which clearly compares different types and their typical uses.
Where to find the dimensions of a specific Viking model
When browsing Viking water faucets on atria.sk, pay attention to the technical specifications of each model. A good product sheet includes:
- Overall dimensions (height × width × depth) in millimeters
- Height of the spout (spout height)
- Reach of the spout (spout reach)
- Diameter of the mounting hole
- Mounting thickness
- Type of thread on the connection
- Center-to-center distance of the outlets (for wall-mounted models)
- Weight (relevant for heavy design models)
If any information is missing in the description, do not hesitate to ask before ordering – this will help you avoid unnecessary returns. Most problems with an unsuitable faucet could be eliminated by simply checking these numbers in advance.
Interested in questions such as how to compare different types of faucets in terms of control mechanism? See the article Lever vs. thermostatic Viking faucet: which one is suitable for your case, where we discuss the advantages and disadvantages of both types, including space requirements for installation.
Standards and certifications relevant to Viking faucets
For customers who want to ensure that the faucet complies with European standards, the following standards are key:
- EN 200 – general requirements for single- and double-valve water supply taps for water with a maximum pressure of up to 1 MPa; also defines dimensions and test pressures
- EN 1111 – thermostatic mixing taps (valves) for hot and cold water supplies
- EN 1287 – thermostatic taps for low pressure
- WRAS (UK Water Regulations Advisory Scheme) – a British certificate, relevant mainly for hybrid projects
Viking taps intended for the European market should comply with EN 200, or additional standards depending on the type. The CE certificate by itself is not a guarantee of compliance with EN 200; it is a separate system. If you need taps for certified apartments or commercial spaces where certification is required, verify this when ordering.
Water pressure and flow – another dimension to consider
Technical parameters of the faucet also include the minimum and maximum working water pressure for which the faucet is designed. Standard Viking taps are designed for pressure 0.05 – 1.0 MPa (0.5 – 10 bar). In practice, the typical pressure in Slovak households is 3 – 4 bar, which is in the middle of the allowed range.
Problems arise with too low pressure (for example, when supplied from a height tank or directly connected to a water heater without a pump) – some cartridges do not function properly below 0.7 bar. On the other hand, pressure above 4 bar accelerates the wear of seals and cartridges. If you have a pressure above 4 bar at home, we recommend installing a pressure-reducing valve at the house entrance.
About how the flow of the faucet affects consumption and how to use aerator or flow restrictor, read the article Viking taps with water saving: ecological and economic options.
Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)
What is the standard center-to-center distance between outlets for Viking wall-mounted faucets?
The European standard that Viking taps comply with is 150 mm between the axes of the hot and cold outlets. If you have an older installation with a different spacing (e.g., 100 mm or 130 mm), the solution is spacers with a compensation range of ±15 to ±20 mm. Always measure the actual distance between the outlets in the wall before purchasing.
What thread do flexible hoses and quarter-turn valves have on Viking faucets?
The standard thread is G 1/2" BSP (cylindrical inch thread). This format is compatible with the vast majority of fittings and connections available on the Slovak market. Older installations with galvanized pipes have the same thread, but it may be worn – we recommend replacing the quarter-turn valve when replacing the faucet.
How can I determine the diameter of the hole in my sink?
The most reliable way is to measure it with a sliding caliper. If you don’t have one, use a ruler and measure the inner diameter of the existing hole. Common values are 35 mm and 38 mm. When purchasing a new sink and faucet together, always verify that both products are compatible – the sink manufacturer usually states “suitable for faucets with diameter X mm."
Can I install a Viking kitchen faucet on a bathroom sink?
Technically it is possible if the hole diameter and thread match, but the result may not be ideal. Kitchen faucets typically have a larger spout reach (160 – 250 mm) and a higher spout height (up to 280 mm), which may be unsuitable for smaller bathroom sinks. The result may be splashing water or an unbalanced visual impression. We recommend using faucets specifically designed for the type of sink you have.
Is a plumber always needed when replacing an old faucet with a new one?
If it's a replacement of a faucet with a bottom connection (flexible hoses) on existing corner valves, an average skilled DIY enthusiast can manage it. If it's a wall connection, work with the piping behind the wall, or the need to modify the outlets, we recommend a professional. More information can be found in the article Installation of a Viking water faucet step by step.
What does the "mounting thickness" of a faucet mean and why is it important?
The mounting thickness determines how thick a material can be between the top part of the faucet and the locking nut. If the thickness of the sink or basin surface is greater than the threaded length of the mounting sleeve allows, the nut will not have enough grip, and the faucet will be unstable or cannot be secured at all. Always measure the thickness of the surface before purchase and compare it with the maximum mounting thickness specified by the manufacturer.
Conclusion: measure once, buy once
The dimensions of a faucet are not just a technical detail in a product list – they are a decisive factor for trouble-free installation, functionality, and the aesthetics of the result. Spending twenty minutes carefully measuring and documenting the existing situation is an investment that will save you hours of problem-solving after the product arrives.
Key values you should always note before purchasing: the distance between the outlets (for wall-mounted faucets), the diameter of the mounting hole, the thickness of the surface, the height of the spout, the spout projection, and the type of thread. With these numbers in hand, you can safely choose the correct model from the Viking water faucet range and be sure that your new faucet will fit exactly where it should – on the first try.
If you have already decided on a specific model and want to know what to expect during the actual installation, what tools you will need, and how to proceed step by step, see the article Installation of a Viking water faucet step by step. And if you are dealing with long-term care of the faucet after installation, you will find all the important information in the article Cleaning and maintenance of Viking faucets: how to extend their lifespan.
Do you have a question about this topic?
Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.