Common faults of taps - dripping, stiff lever, weak flow
Why the faucet drips, stiffens or has weak water flow – and what to do about it
Everyone who has lived in a house or apartment for more than a few years has encountered at least one of these issues. A dripping faucet at night, when everything is quiet, sounds like a quiet torture device. A lever that you have to turn with your whole body deters you every morning. And weak water flow when you want to take a shower and the water only trickles – this is something that can really drive you crazy. The good news is that most of these problems have logical causes and can be solved. Sometimes by yourself, sometimes with minimal help from a plumber. In this article, we will look in depth at each of these problems – where they arise, why they arise, and what you need to do to have peace in the bathroom.
We will focus mainly on common lever and thermostatic faucets, such as those used in bathrooms and kitchens. The principles are, however, universal for most quality faucets – including the entire range of Balletto bathroom faucets.
Dripping faucet – the most common problem and its causes
A dripping faucet is not only annoying – it is also an economic problem. One drop every three seconds means about 10 liters of water per day, i.e. 3,500 to 4,000 liters per year. This is not an insignificant amount, neither financially nor environmentally. Therefore, it is worth solving the dripping as soon as possible, not just waiting for it to stop on its own – it won't.
Exactly where does the faucet drip? This is the key question
The first step in diagnosis is to determine exactly where the water is leaking from. There are three basic places:
- From the outlet (spout) – the faucet drips even when it is closed. This is a classic case of a worn cartridge or seal.
- Under the lever or from the body of the faucet – leakage at the joints, seals or O-rings.
- From the connecting hoses under the sink or basin – the problem is not in the faucet itself, but in the connection.
Distinguishing between these three scenarios will save you a lot of unnecessary work. Many people disassemble the entire faucet when all it needed was to tighten the connecting hoses with a wrench.
Worn cartridge – the most common cause of dripping from the spout
In today's lever faucets, there are no seals in the traditional sense – i.e., rubber gaskets or conical seals, which you knew from old taps. Modern lever faucets work with a ceramic cartridge. The cartridge is essentially the heart of the entire faucet: two ceramic plates with holes rotate against each other, thus regulating the flow and temperature.
Ceramic is an extremely hard material, but it is not indestructible. If the water in the network is aggressive (too hard, or contains sand or impurities), the surface of the ceramic plates is damaged over time. Micro grooves are formed through which water begins to seep even when the tap is closed. Result: the faucet drips.
Another scenario that I see quite often: the pressure in the home network is too high – over 4 bar, ideally over 5–6 bar. The cartridge is designed for normal operating pressure of 1–4 bar. At a constantly higher pressure, the plates wear out faster. Therefore, if your faucets last only 3–5 years and you have replaced the cartridges repeatedly, there is a reason to check the pressure in the network and possibly install a pressure reducing valve.
Old rubber seals and O-rings
In older faucets or in some connection points, classic rubber seals are still found. Rubber ages – it hardens, cracks, and loses elasticity. In combination with heat, pressure and chlorinated water, a seal can last 8–15 years, then start to leak. In the case of dripping under the lever or at the faucet joints, this is a very likely cause. The solution is simple: replace the O-rings and seals. Instructions can be found in the article Replacing the seal and cartridge in a Balletto faucet by yourself.
Loose connecting hoses
An underestimated cause that surprisingly often causes problems. The connecting hose nuts can loosen over time – either by vibrations from the piping (hydraulic shock, sudden closing, a washing machine connected to the same piping), or just by heating and cooling. Check if you can move the nut by hand. If yes – tighten it, done. If not, try to add a quarter turn with a wrench. Do not over-tighten – otherwise you will damage the sealing gasket or the hose thread.
Stiff lever – the faucet is difficult to operate
If you have to exert more force to turn or lift the lever, it is not just discomfort. It is a sign that something inside the faucet is not in order. A neglected stiff lever can end up with a broken lever or damaged internal parts, which is a more expensive repair.
Hard water as the main cause of hardness
In Slovakia, we have moderately hard to hard water in most regions. A water hardness of over 2.5 mmol/l (i.e. approx. 25 °dH) is common in areas supplied from limestone underground sources. Limestone deposits – limescale – gradually accumulate on all moving parts of the faucet. The ceramic cartridge develops a layer of limescale between the plates, which causes friction. Result: moving the lever requires more force.
Limescale also settles on the cartridge shaft and on the internal surfaces of the faucet body. At temperatures above 60 °C (which occurs quite quickly with hot water), the settling accelerates dramatically. Therefore, thermostatic faucets, where hot water flows through the interior continuously, are more prone to faster clogging. A detailed solution to limescale is described in the article How to remove limescale from a bathroom faucet.
Dried-out cartridge lubricant
Ceramic plates are coated with a special silicone lubricating paste during manufacturing. This paste serves to facilitate movement and also forms a kind of sealing layer. After years of operation – usually 5–10 years, depending on water quality and usage intensity – the lubricant breaks down, dries out, or mixes with dirt and loses its properties. The movement of the plates against each other suddenly becomes stiff, jerky, or squeaky.
Remedy: remove the cartridge (this is relatively simple, instructions are in the article Replacing the seal and cartridge in a Balletto faucet DIY), clean it, apply silicone paste, and put it back. If the plates are damaged, replace the cartridge. Silicone lubricant for ceramic cartridges costs a few euros and one package lasts for several repairs.
Mechanical damage or deformation of the cartridge
Sometimes the problem is mechanical – the cartridge is not properly seated in the faucet body, its housing is cracked, or the shaft is deformed. This can happen after improper installation, after the faucet falls during renovation, or after using excessive force when operating it. In such a case, only replacing the cartridge, or even the entire faucet if the body is damaged, will help.
Seized O-rings
Less common, but real in practice: rubber O-rings (sealing rings between the cartridge and the faucet body) can twist or seize during installation. They cause stiff movement or uneven resistance when moving the lever. If you recently disassembled the faucet or installed a new cartridge, check the correct position of the O-rings.
Weak water flow – where is the pressure lost
Weak water flow is frustrating especially when showering. Instead of a strong flow, you get a thin stream. The causes can be very different, and the key to the solution is again correct diagnosis.
Clogged inlet screen of the faucet
Every faucet has a small mesh screen (filter) at the inlet neck – where the supply hose connects. This screen captures impurities, sand, and rust from the pipes. After years, it becomes clogged and starts to restrict the flow. The symptom is clear: the faucet runs weakly, even though the pressure is normal in another bathroom with a different faucet.
Solution: shut off the water supply to the faucet (valve under the sink or at the riser), unscrew the supply hose, remove the screen with tweezers or a thin object, clean it under running water or in a lemon acid solution (about 1 teaspoon per glass of water, let it sit for 10–15 minutes), return the screen, and screw the hose back – the problem is solved. This operation usually takes 10–15 minutes.
Clogged aerator (aerating insert)
The aerator is a small threaded insert at the end of the spout. It mixes water with air, creating a pleasant, soft flow without splashing. It is also the first place where limescale and dirt settle. If the aerator is clogged, the flow is weak, splattered, or uneven.
Identification: unscrew the aerator (usually it can be unscrewed by hand, if the limescale is seized, a cloth-covered pliers or small pliers with surface protection will suffice). Inside, you will see one or more screens and plastic/metal discs. Soak them in a lemon acid or vinegar solution (half a glass of vinegar per glass of water) for 30 minutes, clean, and reassemble. The difference in pressure and flow quality is immediate and noticeable.
Low pressure in the supply – the problem is not in the faucet
If the weak flow occurs in all faucets in the apartment at the same time, the cause is not in the faucet, but in the supply. Common causes:
- Partially closed valve – riser or apartment valve. This can happen after renovations, when the plumber did not fully open the valve.
- Clogged horizontal pipes (old apartment building with steel piping). A 1/2" pipe that is lined with corrosion deposits inside may have an actual flow diameter of only 6–8 mm instead of the original 13 mm.
- Improperly set pressure-reducing valve (TRV) – if a pressure-reducing valve is installed in the building (usually at the entrance to the apartment or house), its incorrect setting can reduce the pressure too much. The correct operating pressure for a household is 2.5–3.5 bar.
- Problem on the water company side – temporary pressure drop in the network. This is always temporary and the water company usually announces it.
Damaged or clogged cartridge as a cause of weak flow
If the strainer and aerator are clean and the water pressure in the network is normal, but a specific faucet is letting out little water, the cause may be inside the cartridge. A clogged cartridge restricts the flow – lime scale settles not only on the moving parts, but also on the channels through which water flows. During a destructive test (when the cartridge is disassembled), these channels are often visibly narrowed by white deposits.
In this case, replacing the cartridge helps. Cartridges are standardized according to diameter (25 mm, 35 mm, 40 mm and 47 mm are the most common sizes) and according to height. When purchasing a replacement cartridge, it is important to know the exact type – either according to the number printed on the old cartridge or according to the manufacturer's catalog of the faucet. More about selecting cartridges can be found in the article What connection diameter and flow rate do I need for a faucet.
Less common, but real faults
Hydraulic shock and knocking in the pipes
If you hear a knocking sound in the pipes when closing the faucet (especially a lever-type one, which can be closed very quickly) – so-called water hammer – it is not a direct fault of the faucet, but a hydraulic phenomenon. It occurs when the sudden stop of water flow creates a pressure wave in the pipes. Repeated occurrences can lead to weakened joints, cracked seals or damage to the faucet itself.
Solution: a hydro-pneumatic shock absorber (a small tank with a membrane) is mounted on the supply pipe, or the pressure-reducing valve is adjusted to lower values. A less elegant, but functional solution: learn to close the lever faucet more slowly.
Faucet "by itself" changes the temperature
Thermostatic faucets are designed to maintain the set water temperature. If you notice that the water temperature changes even with unchanged settings, the problem may be in the thermostatic element (wax/bimetallic element that reacts to temperature). These elements wear out and lose sensitivity or accuracy. Replacing the thermostat is a more advanced task, but still doable by an experienced DIY enthusiast.
Water dripping down the arm of a shower faucet
If water is dripping down the arm of a shower faucet (not from the head, but from the place where the hose connects to the faucet), it is a damaged O-ring in the hose inlet. Solution: turn off the water, unscrew the hose, replace the O-ring, and reconnect. A 5-minute operation.
Step-by-step diagnosis and repair process
Before any intervention in the faucet, it is necessary to turn off the water supply. Shut-off valves are either directly under the faucet (corner shut-off valves under the sink or countertop), or at the riser in the hallway. If there are no corner shut-off valves in the apartment, that is a separate problem – every apartment installation should have them, as they make every repair easier and are also a requirement of proper installation.
After closing the water, open the faucet – you will drain the remaining water from the pipes and reduce the pressure. Now you can work safely. The process of disassembling, repairing and reassembling the faucet is described in detail in the article Installation of a water faucet Balletto step by step.
Prevention – how to prevent faults
Most faucet faults can be prevented by regular maintenance and a few preventive measures. This is not an empty phrase – from practice I know that customers who clean the aerator once a year and apply lubricant to the cartridge every 3–4 years have faucets that work for 15–20 years without problems. Those who neglect this replace their faucets every 5–7 years.
- Cleaning the aerator at least once a year, ideally every 6 months in areas with hard water.
- Checking and cleaning the inlet strainer once every 2 years or after every major pipe repair (after plumbers, after pipe repairs).
- De-greasing and re-greasing the cartridge with silicone paste every 4–5 years or at the first signs of stiffness.
- Checking the pressure in the network with a pressure gauge – you can buy one for a few euros at a plumbing store. If the pressure is consistently above 4 bar, install a pressure-reducing valve.
- Checking the sealing hoses and connections once a year – visually check whether they are not damp, cracked or swollen.
- Insulating the pipes – if you have old steel pipes, an investment in plastic or copper piping will pay off in the form of higher pressure and fewer faucet faults.
A detailed guide to prevention and maintenance can be found in the article Maintenance and cleaning of Balletto faucets – how to extend their lifespan.
When to completely replace the faucet and when a repair is enough
This is a question that customers ask very often. A simple answer: if the body of the faucet is cracked, corroded or the surface treatment (chrome, matte black, gold) is extensively damaged – replace the faucet. If the problem is only in the internal parts (cartridge, seals, strainer), a repair is worth it, because the parts are significantly cheaper than a new faucet.
Repair is economically justified if the price of the replacement part does not exceed 40–50 % of the price of a new battery of the same quality. For a more expensive battery, this threshold is higher – a cartridge costing €20 in a €120 battery is clearly a cost-effective repair. A cartridge costing €40 in a €45 battery – this is a signal to choose a new one.
When choosing a new battery, it is worth considering what type it is – more details on this are discussed in the article Balletto batteries: overview of types – lever, thermostatic, under-sink. The entire range of Balletto batteries is designed with an emphasis on the availability of spare parts and simple serviceability, which is a factor that significantly affects the total costs over 10–15 years of use when purchasing a battery.
Special cases: thermostatic valves and under-sink systems
Thermostatic valves have a different internal architecture than standard lever valves, so some faults manifest differently. Dripping from a thermostatic valve is less common, as the thermostatic valve is separated from the control valve. Weak water flow in thermostatic valves can have another cause: a clogged thermostatic element that cannot fully open. Replacing the thermostatic element is simpler than replacing a cartridge in a lever valve – the element is accessible from the outside after removing the cover.
Under-sink systems are more complex – the valve body (with lever) is separated from the valve mechanism, which is embedded in the wall. If the problem is in the lever body itself – it can be replaced relatively easily. If the problem is in the wall-mounted valve, access is more difficult and usually requires a plumber. Therefore, the quality of the valves used in under-sink systems is crucial – cheap valves that fail within 5 years and require cutting into the wall are a poor choice. More about choosing under-sink systems in the article How to choose Balletto water taps for your bathroom and kitchen.
Common questions (FAQ)
The tap drips only when hot water is running – is that normal?
No, it is not normal, but it has a logical explanation. The ceramic discs in the cartridge change with temperature due to thermal expansion. If the discs are worn or improperly lubricated, a leak can occur at higher water temperatures (material expansion), which is not visible with cold water. The solution is the same: replace or lubricate the cartridge.
After replacing the cartridge, the tap still drips – what did I do wrong?
The most common reason: the new cartridge is not identical to the original – it may have a different diameter, height, or stem position. Another possibility: the cartridge was not properly seated (it is slightly tilted or not fully pressed in). A third possibility: the sealing ring between the cartridge and the tap body (O-ring) is damaged or missing. Check all three items.
Can I repair a lever tap myself, or do I always need a plumber?
Most common repairs – replacing the cartridge, cleaning the filter, cleaning the aerator, replacing O-rings, replacing connecting hoses – can be handled by a handy DIYer without professional training. It is sufficient to turn off the water, proceed systematically, and have the correct spare parts. I recommend a plumber for pressure issues in the plumbing system, for installing new plumbing, and for more complex under-sink systems.
What is the lifespan of a ceramic cartridge?
A high-quality ceramic cartridge from a reputable manufacturer is certified for 500,000 cycles (openings/closings). With normal use (25–30 cycles per day), this corresponds to more than 40 years. In practice, the real lifespan is 10–20 years, as limescale, impurities, and possibly high pressure wear it out before the mechanical life of the discs is exhausted. Low-cost, no-name cartridges have a significantly shorter lifespan – 3–5 years.
The tap leaks and hums at night – where does this sound come from?
Noises from the tap (whistling, humming) during water flow are usually caused by two things: a worn cartridge, where turbulence through damaged discs generates vibrations (whistling), or excessively high water pressure, where water "sings" through a small opening. First, check the pressure (over 4 bar is a problem), then the condition of the cartridge.
Is there a difference in reliability between cheap and expensive taps?
Yes, the difference is real and measurable. Cheap taps (under €15–20) use plastic cartridge bodies, less durable ceramic discs, and thinner chrome layers. The first problems appear after 2–4 years. Mid- to high-end models (from €40 upwards) – the quality jump is significant. Brass bodies, denser ceramic discs, thicker galvanic layers. However, an even more important factor than the price itself is the availability of spare parts – a tap for which you cannot find a cartridge after 5 years is worthless regardless of its original quality. Therefore, it is worth buying from brands with a service network and available parts, which is exactly the added value of the Balletto range.
Conclusion – tap faults are solvable if you know where to look
A dripping, stiff, or weakly flowing tap is not a catastrophe. Most faults are caused by wear of common, inexpensive, and easily replaceable parts – cartridge, seals, aerator, filter. The key is correct diagnosis: identifying exactly where the problem is, and not unnecessarily disassembling the entire plumbing. Regular maintenance – at least cleaning the aerator and checking the filters – significantly extends the life of any tap and saves time and money. And if the fault recurs quickly after repair, look for a more systemic issue: hard water, high pressure, or old pipes.
Do you have a question about this topic?
Not sure or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.