Stern Basin vs. Shower vs. Bathtub Faucets – Differences and Uses
Basin, shower and bath mixer taps from Stern – comprehensive guide to differences and use
When a customer enters a bathroom they are just renovating and stands before the choice of taps, one of the first confusions arises right here: visually similar products with fundamentally different functions. Basin mixer, shower mixer, bath mixer – all three belong to the same category of "bathroom mixers", but each has its own construction, dimensional requirements, hydraulic parameters and method of installation. If you don't realize these differences before purchase, you risk mismatched holes, poor connection or a non-functional shower that will catch up with you during installation – and this is the moment when it is most expensive to go back.
This article will give you an overview of what distinguishes the different types of Stern mixers, their technical parameters, where and how they are mounted, what to watch out for when choosing and why it pays off to reach for the right type from the very beginning. We will move from basic structural differences through dimensions, flows, pressure requirements to practical examples from customer practice.
Basic logic: why there are three different types
The answer is simple if you look at the matter from the perspective of hydraulics and ergonomics. Each of the three types of mixers serves a different place in the bathroom, at a different height from the floor, with a different amount of water it needs, with a different direction of outlet and with different requirements for the reach of the outlet arm.
A basin mixer works with a relatively small amount of water – it is only about washing hands or face. A shower mixer must handle a higher flow and above all must maintain the set temperature stable, because a change in temperature during showering is not only unpleasant, but can also be dangerous. A bath mixer combines both worlds – it fills the bath (large volume, longer time) and often has a swivel supply for a hand shower.
These functional differences are reflected in every technical detail: the size of the cartridge, the diameter of the connecting hoses, the height of the mixer body, the length of the outlet arm, the flow in liters per minute and the method of attachment to the wall or to the basin.
Basin mixer from Stern – detailed analysis
Construction and dimensions
The basin mixer is designed to be mounted directly into the hole in the basin or into a position on the wall above the basin. The body of the mixer extends from the base plate or directly from the connecting nut that seals the hole in the ceramic. A typical hole in the basin has a diameter of 32–38 mm. Connection to the supply lines is done using flexible connecting hoses, usually with a G3/8" or G1/2" thread on the side of the supply.
The height of the basin mixer body usually ranges from 130 mm to 260 mm, depending on the type of basin and the design line. Lower mixers (130–160 mm) are suitable for basins with a smaller depth, where a high mixer with a larger flow would cause splashing. Taller mixers (200–260 mm) are used for higher basins, for free-standing basins or for basin-type basins, where a larger reach of the arm is needed.
The length of the outlet arm is another key parameter. For built-in basins (into a cabinet or into a countertop), the arm can be shorter – 110 to 150 mm. For free-standing basins or for basins with a wider edge, an arm of 150–200 mm is needed, so that the water falls into the center of the drain hole and not on the edge of the basin or outside of it.
Flow and pressure requirements of basin mixers
A standard Stern basin mixer operates at a working pressure of 0.5 to 6 bar. The recommended working pressure for standard cartridge mixers is 1–4 bar. The flow rate when open is typically 8–12 liters per minute at a pressure of 3 bar. Some models have a built-in aerator (foamer), which reduces the actual flow to 5–7 liters per minute, which is sufficient for washing hands and at the same time saves water.
From practice: in older apartment buildings with gravity water heating (pressure 0.3–0.8 bar), there may be a problem that standard cartridge bathroom taps do not open properly. In such cases, it is necessary to choose a tap certified for low pressure (low-pressure), which the manufacturer always specifies in the technical documentation. Therefore, always check the actual water pressure in your plumbing before purchasing. More on this topic can also be found in the topic Common questions about Stern taps – water pressure, compatibility, warranty and service.
Single-lever vs. two-handle construction for bathroom taps
A bathroom tap can be single-lever (one lever controls both temperature and flow) or two-handle (two valves, one for cold and one for hot water). Single-lever taps with cartridges are now significantly dominant – they are more convenient, reliable, and cartridge replacement is simple. Two-handle taps still appear in the renovation of older bathrooms for aesthetic or operational reasons. More on this decision is covered in the topic Single-lever vs. two-handle taps – which one is suitable for your bathroom.
Stern shower tap – what to pay attention to
Where and how to install a shower tap
A shower tap is mounted on the wall of the shower corner or shower area. Its body is placed at a height of 90–120 cm from the floor, which corresponds to ergonomic reach during use. Cold and hot water inlets come out of the wall, either embedded (in mortar or behind the wall) or surface-mounted in cases where embedded installation is not possible.
The typical spacing of inlets for a shower tap is 150 mm (center to center) – the same as for a bathroom and bathtub tap, which is the de facto standard in Central Europe. The inlet thread diameter is G1/2" (external). The connection is rigid, without hoses – the tap is directly mounted on the wall outlets using nuts or flanges. Therefore, it is very important that the inlet spacing in the wall is exactly 150 mm. Even a 5 mm deviation can cause the tap to be slightly torsionally stressed and the seal to wear out faster. This topic is covered in more detail in the article What diameter and spacing of connection do you need for a bathroom tap.
Thermostatic vs. single-lever shower tap
A key decision when choosing a shower tap is whether you want a thermostatic or a single-lever (non-thermostatic) model. A single-lever shower tap is more affordable, but you have to manually set the water temperature each time you use it, and the temperature may slightly change when the pressure in the network changes (e.g., when someone turns on the water in the kitchen). A thermostatic tap maintains the set temperature automatically using a thermostatic cartridge that compensates for pressure and temperature fluctuations in the supply. This is both comfort and safety – a thermostatic anti-scald protection is very important when bathing children.
From practice: in family homes with their own hot water preparation (storage heater, boiler), temperature fluctuations in hot water are common because it depends on the current temperature in the tank and on how many people are using water at the same time. In such cases, a thermostatic shower tap is always worth it. In apartment buildings with a central hot water supply, the temperature is more stable and a single-lever tap is usually sufficient.
Shower rod, head and hose – part of the system
A shower tap never works alone – it is part of a shower system that includes a shower rod (height of the head installation), a shower hose and a handheld head. Many Stern tap models are sold as complete sets including these components, while others are just the tap body and the accessories are purchased separately. Always check what is included in the package before purchasing.
The height of the shower rod outlet is typically between 1.8–2.0 m from the floor (for a fixed ceiling head) or is adjustable via a sliding bracket on the rod. The hose is usually 150–200 cm long and has a G1/2" or 1/2" BSP thread. For Stern taps, compatibility with standard shower kits is good, but always check the type of thread on the tap outlet.
Bathtub Faucet Stern – A Combination of Functions
What Distinguishes a Bathtub Faucet from Others
A bathtub faucet is structurally the "most complex" of the three, as it must handle two basic functions: filling the bathtub and showering. The body of the faucet is therefore larger, with a more massive downward-pointing spout (for filling the bathtub), and at the same time contains a diverter – a mechanism that switches the water flow from the main spout to the handheld shower hose. The diverter is either part of the faucet body (a push-button or pull knob) or is solved via a lever.
The flow rate of a bathtub faucet must be significantly higher than that of a sink faucet – typically 15–25 liters per minute, because a bathtub with a volume of 150–200 liters should be filled within a reasonable time (10–15 minutes), not half an hour. Therefore, the inlet pipes and the outlet of the bathtub faucet have a larger diameter, and the cartridge is more robust.
Wall-mounted Bathtub Faucet – Types of Mounting
A bathtub faucet is mounted on the wall above the bathtub, usually at a height of 65–80 cm from the floor (or 25–35 cm from the top edge of the tub). The supply lines are embedded in the wall in the same way, with a spacing of 150 mm, G1/2" thread. The outlet arm points downward into the tub – the length of the arm must be such that the water flows into the tub and not onto its edge. A typical length of the outlet arm of a bathtub faucet is 200–250 mm, sometimes even more for free-standing tubs.
A special category includes faucets for free-standing tubs – there are two options: a wall-mounted faucet with a long arm, or a free-standing floor-standing faucet. Floor-standing faucets are structurally completely different – the supply lines come from the floor, not the wall, which requires special preparation during the rough construction phase. For Stern faucet range, it applies that most models are designed for standard wall mounting, which is a solution suitable for the vast majority of bathrooms.
Handheld Shower as Part of a Bathtub Faucet
Almost every bathtub faucet includes or allows the connection of a handheld shower via a hose. The hose connects to a side outlet of the faucet with a G1/2" thread, and a hose hook (hose stand) is mounted separately on the wall or is part of the faucet body. The hose length is usually 150 cm, which allows comfortable showering while standing or sitting in the tub during washing. When choosing a bathtub faucet, pay attention to whether the hose with a handheld shower head is part of the package or needs to be purchased separately.
Clear Comparison of Parameters – Table
| Parameter | Sink | Shower | Bathtub |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mounting Location | Sink hole / wall | Wall of the shower enclosure | Wall above the bathtub |
| Mounting Height | On the sink (approx. 80 cm from the floor) | 90–120 cm from the floor | 65–80 cm from the floor |
| Supply Spacing | 150 mm | 150 mm | 150 mm |
| Supply Thread Diameter | G1/2" (connecting hoses G3/8") | G1/2" | G1/2" |
| Typical Flow Rate | 5–12 l/min | 8–15 l/min | 15–25 l/min |
| Diverter | No (rarely yes) | Sometimes (for fixed + handheld) | Always (tub/shower switching) |
| Thermostatic Version | Rare | Common and recommended | Available, suitable |
| Outlet Arm | 110–200 mm, horizontal | None (output via hose) | 200–250 mm, downward |
| Cartridge / Valve | Ceramic cartridge 35 mm | Ceramic cartridge 35–40 mm | Ceramic cartridge 40 mm+ |
Practical Scenarios from Real Customer Orders
Scenario 1: Reconstruction of a Panel Apartment Bathroom from the 80s
In older apartments, water supply lines are embedded in the wall and the spacing is usually exactly 150 mm – that is good news. Worse is that the supply lines are sometimes 3–5 cm higher or lower than the new standard for a specific type of faucet. In such cases, eccentric adapters (offset couplings) are used – special adjustable adapters that compensate for the vertical or lateral deviation of the supply lines. Eccentrics are often sold with shower and bathtub faucets. With a sink faucet, this issue is irrelevant, as flexible hoses can compensate for large deviations.
Concrete case: a customer ordered a shower faucet for a 25-year-old apartment, where the supply lines were at a height of 85 cm from the floor instead of the recommended 100–105 cm. The faucet was installed with eccentrics with a ±20 mm adjustment, which elegantly solved the problem without cutting the wall.
Scenario 2: New Construction with a Prefabricated Wall – Ideal Conditions
In new constructions with a prefabricated wall (Knauf, Rigips), the plumber can place the supply lines exactly where they want. We always recommend consulting the height of the supply lines with the specific faucet model before embedding work, ideally with the technical datasheet of the faucet in hand. This will save you from later complications. The installation procedure is described in the article Step-by-step Installation of a Stern Water Faucet – DIY or with a Plumber.
Scenario 3: Bathroom with a Free-standing Bathtub
A free-standing bathtub in the center of the bathroom is a design trend that, however, brings a technical challenge: you cannot place the faucet on the wall (the tub is far from it) or at the usual location. There are three solutions: a floor-standing faucet (supply lines from the floor – requires preparation during the rough construction phase), a wall-mounted faucet with an extremely long arm (250–400 mm, but that is not enough for tubs in the center of the room), or a faucet mounted on the edge of the tub in a special mounting hole (not all tubs allow this). For clients with a free-standing tub, we always emphasize: the decision on the type of faucet must come BEFORE the purchase of the tub, not after it.
Scenario 4: Small bathroom with a bathtub and a shower niche
In small bathrooms, it often happens that the bathtub and the shower niche are next to each other, each with its own faucet. It is important to plan the piping so that each faucet has its own shut-off valve – this way, you don’t have to shut off the entire bathroom when repairing one faucet. At the same time, it is important to ensure that both faucets have the same pressure profile – if the shower has a thermostat and the bathtub faucet does not, pressure fluctuations during simultaneous use can cause unpleasant temperature changes in the shower.
How to correctly combine faucets in one bathroom
During renovation or equipping a new bathroom, most customers ask: do all faucets have to be from the same series? The answer is: they don’t have to, but we recommend it. Faucets from one Stern design line have the same surface finish (chrome, satin, black, gold), the same shape of levers, and the same visual expression, which makes the bathroom cohesive and aesthetically consistent. Technically, it is possible to combine different series, but the result looks mismatched – and most customers realize this only after installation.
From a functional point of view, it is important to ensure that all faucets are dimensioned for the same pressure range. If you have a pressure of 2 bar in the system, all faucets should be certified for this pressure. Mixing a low-pressure and a standard-pressure faucet in one bathroom can lead to one working well and the other dripping or having insufficient flow.
It is also important to match the type of warranty and the availability of spare parts. Stern faucets, for which cartridges, seals, and main mechanical parts are available in stock, are a long-term investment. More on this topic can be found in the article Certificates and quality of Stern faucets – what standards and warranties mean for you and also in Replacing seals and cartridges in a Stern faucet – procedure and spare parts.
Surface finishes and their impact on maintenance
All three types of Stern faucets are available in various surface finishes – most commonly chrome, brushed chrome (satin/brushed), matte black, and sometimes also gold (PVD coating). Choosing a surface is not just an aesthetic choice. A chrome finish is the most resistant to limescale and disinfectants, and it is the easiest to clean. Matte black surface finish is attractive, but it requires more careful cleaning – aggressive acidic descaling agents damage the surface.
The bathtub faucet is especially exposed to limescale, as water runs down the body of the faucet every time the bathtub is filled and leaves deposits after drying. With hard water (over 20°dH), we recommend wiping the body of the faucet with a dry cloth after each use – this prevents deposit buildup and extends the life of the surface. The descaling procedure is described in the article Cleaning and descaling a water faucet – how to extend its lifespan.
Installation – basic differences between types
A basin faucet is mounted from the bottom of the sink: the body of the faucet is threaded through the hole, a decorative ring is mounted from above, a securing nut is tightened from below, and flexible hoses are connected to the angle valves (angle taps). This is a job that most skilled DIYers can do themselves. The key is not to over-tighten the nut (the ceramic may crack) and to use sealing compound on the hose connections.
A shower and bathtub faucet require wall connections – professional installation is necessary here (at least the first installation of the connections). Mounting the faucet on existing outlets is, however, simple: a gasket is placed, eccentric washers are mounted if needed, nuts are tightened, and that’s it. A detailed procedure can be found in the article Installation of a Stern water faucet step by step – DIY or with an installer.
Most common mistakes when choosing a faucet type
- Purchasing a shower faucet for a basin: A shower faucet has no outlet arms, only an outlet for a hose – it is non-functional on a basin.
- Purchasing a basin faucet for a bathtub: The flow is too low, and the bathtub would take hours to fill.
- Ignoring the distance between inlets: If the distance in the wall is 120 mm instead of 150 mm, the faucet simply won’t fit. Always measure the actual distance before ordering.
- Forgetting about eccentric washers: In renovations, inlets are rarely in an ideal position. Eccentric washers are cheap and solve many problems.
- Underestimating water pressure: In apartment buildings with gravity-fed tanks, pressure can be below 1 bar. Standard faucets work poorly or not at all there.
- Design line mismatch: Ordering a basin faucet from one series and a bathtub faucet from another series – the result in the bathroom looks unnatural.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can I use a bath faucet as a shower if I connect only the hose?
Technically yes – a bath faucet has an outlet for a handheld shower hose. However, it lacks the mounting height and a fixed shower rod with a head, which are part of a complete shower set. The comfort of showering will be lower and ergonomically it is a compromise solution. If you have a combination of a bathtub and a shower in one space, always choose a faucet specifically designed for this purpose (so-called bath faucet with deflection for the shower and supply for the shower rod).
Is the distance between the inlets 150 mm the same for all three types of Stern faucets?
Yes, the standard of 150 mm (center to center) applies to all three types of wall-mounted bathroom faucets from Stern – sink (wall-mounted), shower and bath faucets. Sink faucets mounted directly into the sink opening have inlets via flexible hoses and the distance between inlets in the sink is not relevant – the hoses are flexible enough to compensate. More details can be found in the topic What diameter and connection spacing do you need for a bathroom faucet.
What is a diverter and how long does it last?
A diverter (deflector) is a mechanism in a bath faucet that switches the water flow from the outlet spout to the handheld shower hose. It is usually a pull or rotating button. A diverter is a part that wears out faster than the cartridge – the average lifespan is 5–10 years with normal use. If the diverter stops switching properly or water leaks even after switching, it is time for a replacement. For Stern faucets, spare parts are usually available, which is one of the reasons why customers choose this range.
What is the minimum water pressure
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Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.