How to choose Balletto taps for the bathroom and kitchen

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How to choose Balletto taps for the bathroom and kitchen – complete guide

Selecting a tap is one of those decisions that most people underestimate. The logic is simple: it looks easy, you buy anything, install it – and that's it. But after three years it starts dripping, the lever gets stiff, the chrome peels off, or the pressure is strangely weak despite the fact that the pressure is fine in the adjacent room. Balletto is a line of taps available in the atria.sk range in various versions for the bathroom and kitchen. In this article, we will explain how to distinguish between the different types, what to find out before purchasing, what to pay attention to when choosing according to the specific room, and why some seemingly cheaper solutions end up being more expensive in the long run.

Why the choice of tap matters more than you think

A tap is not just a faucet. It is a precise hydraulic and mechanical component that must work together with the specific water pressure in your network, the diameter of the connecting thread, the height of the outlet in relation to the sink or shower, the water temperature, and, not least, the hardness of the water in your area. If any of these parameters don't match, the problem will show up – either immediately (leaking, not fitting, unsuitable height), or after some time (dripping, noise, corrosion).

From practice, I know that the most common source of problems during installation is not bad taps, but the wrong choice of tap for a given plumbing system. For example: a customer buys a pressure thermostat tap for a shower, but has a pressure of 0.8 bar in the house – and a thermostat tap typically needs at least 1.5–2 bars to regulate the temperature properly. Result: unsatisfactory comfort, complaints about the "non-functional" thermostat, while the tap itself is fine. The problem was the choice.

Basic types of Balletto taps – overview at a glance

Before we dive into the parameters, let's list the types of taps that exist in this range. A more detailed description can be found in the topic Balletto taps: overview of types – lever, thermostat, built-in, here just briefly:

Lever (single-lever) tap – the most widespread type, one lever controls both temperature and flow simultaneously. Suitable for sinks, basins, bathtubs and showers. The foundation of every bathroom.
Two-handle (double-lever) tap – separate control of hot and cold water. Traditional appearance, larger wall space required, still popular in retro or vintage interior concepts.
Thermostatic tap – allows you to pre-set the desired water temperature, the lever controls only the flow. Highest comfort, important safety function (prevention of scalding), ideal for showers and bathtubs in households with children.
Built-in (undermount) tap – the body of the tap is built into the wall, only the cover and control element protrude. Clean, minimalist look, more complex installation, requires installation before tiling.
Touch-free (sensor) tap – opening and closing via motion sensor or touch. Mostly for commercial spaces, but growing interest in households as well.

Parameters you must find out BEFORE buying a tap

This is the chapter where the success or failure of your choice is decided. Each parameter here has a real impact on functionality and installation.

1. Diameter of the connecting thread and outlet spacing

Standard home installations use a G 1/2" thread (external thread on the pipe). The tap must have a matching internal thread. Most sink, shower, and bathtub taps work with G 1/2". Kitchen taps also mostly use G 1/2".

An important parameter for bathtub and shower taps is the outlet spacing – the distance between the centers of the hot and cold water inlets. The European standard is 150 mm. If you are replacing an old tap and the plumbing is fixed in place, you must measure this distance and buy a tap with the same or adjustable spacing. Balletto offers some models with adjustable spacing (typically ±10–20 mm), which makes replacement easier in older apartments where the plumbing may not be exactly 150 mm.

The detailed issue of pipe diameters and flow rates is addressed in a separate topic What pipe diameter and flow rate do I need for the tap.

2. Water pressure in the system

This is a key parameter that most customers don't know. The standard pressure in a city water supply is 2.5–4 bars, in some areas even higher. In family homes with storage water heaters (boilers), the pressure at the boiler outlet may be lower – typically 0.5–2 bars for storage heaters without pressure valves. Here is a critical rule:

Thermostatic taps require at least 1.0–2.0 bars (depending on the model) for the thermostat to regulate properly.
Standard lever taps work from about 0.5 bar upwards.
Flow-through heaters require sufficient flow (l/min), not just pressure – here you need to check the minimum flow of the heater and the maximum flow of the tap.

If you are unsure about the pressure, borrow or buy a simple pressure gauge that screws onto the outlet. The measurement takes 30 seconds and can save you a lot of problems.

3. Outlet height and reach to the sink/basin

For sink taps, there are three basic categories according to outlet height:

Low outlet (around 100–150 mm) – for shallow sinks, for children's sinks, for narrow bathrooms where the tap should not be dominant.
Middle outlet (150–200 mm) – universal type, suitable for most standard sinks.
High outlet / with swivel arm (200 mm and more) – for deep basins, for free-standing sinks on a pedestal, for kitchen taps with flexible arms.

For kitchen taps, swivel arms that rotate 360° or at least 180° are often of interest. If you have a drainboard with a drip tray on the side, a swivel arm is practical for watering, washing pots, etc.

4. Surface finish and material

Balletto faucets are available in several surface finishes. The most common is polished chrome – a long-proven, easy-to-maintain, and resistant to daily wear. In addition to this, there are:

Matte chrome (brushed stainless steel finish) – a modern look, less visible fingerprint marks, suitable for minimalist interiors.
Matte black (Black) – a design trend of recent years, an effective contrast in white bathrooms, requires slightly more careful maintenance – lime deposits are visible, and gentle cleaning agents are needed.
Gold / champagne – retro or more luxurious look, works well with dark tiles or terracotta.

Do not forget that the surface finish also affects maintenance. Polished chrome can withstand most cleaning agents (avoid only abrasive ones), while matte black requires only soft cloths and pH-neutral agents. More on cleaning can be found in the topic Maintenance and cleaning of Balletto faucets – how to extend their lifespan.

Selecting a faucet based on the place of use

Bathroom sink faucet

This is the most common type of purchase. A sink faucet must meet several requirements at once:

Mounting on the sink vs. on the wall. Most modern sinks have an opening for the faucet from above (stand faucet). The standard diameter of the opening is 35 mm. The faucet is secured with a nut from below. An alternative is a wall-mounted faucet, where the water supply is embedded in the wall and only the body with the lever and spout protrude – common in older apartments or in specific design concepts.

Spout height versus sink depth. If you have a shallow "design" sink (for example, a basin placed on a countertop), do not use a low spout – water would spray all over the bathroom. On the contrary, for deep classic sinks, a medium spout is suitable.

Aerator. All Balletto faucets should have a built-in aerator (aerator) at the end of the spout. The aerator mixes water with air, creates a softer stream, reduces water consumption, and prevents splashing. It can be unscrewed, cleaned, and replaced if necessary. More on descaling the aerator can be found in the topic How to remove limescale from a bathroom faucet.

Bathtub and shower faucet

For a bathtub faucet, the crucial decision is: with a handheld shower or without? Most modern Balletto bathtub faucets have a combined outlet – a lever for setting the temperature, a switch between the spout (for filling the tub) and a handheld shower on a hose. This type is practical and is now standard.

If you plan a shower enclosure with a fixed shower (rain shower head), you can choose either:

A wall-mounted faucet with a shower set (bar, hose, handheld shower),
Or a thermostatic undermount faucet for a clean look without visible piping.

A thermostatic faucet is highly recommended in the context of a bathtub and shower, especially in households with children. You can pre-set the temperature, for example, to 38 °C, and the system maintains it regardless of whether someone else in the house turns on water or flushes the toilet. No risk of scalding in the case of a sudden drop in cold water. The faucet also has a safety device that prevents setting the temperature above 38 or 40 °C (depending on the model).

Kitchen Faucet

A kitchen faucet is stressed very differently than a bathroom one. It is turned on and off many times a day, comes into contact with various fatty and acidic substances (detergents, citrus fruits), and requires more practical solutions than purely design-oriented ones.

What to focus on in the kitchen:

Height and reach of the spout. A large sink requires a long spout. If you have a double-basin sink, you can choose either a swivel spout with sufficient reach (300 mm or more), or a faucet with a flexible pull-out sprayer.
Pull-out vs. fixed spout. Faucets with a pull-out head (pull-out or pull-down) are especially practical – the extended head serves as a sprayer for cleaning the sink or filling large pots. The hose is stored in the body of the faucet with magnetic or gravity retraction. This type is growing in popularity.
Easy maintenance. Matte chrome or stainless steel finish is more practical in the kitchen than glossy – less visible are greasy fingerprints. On the other hand, glossy chrome can be quickly wiped clean with a cloth.
Resistance to hard water. In many Slovak regions, the water is moderately to very hard (>200 mg/l CaCO₃). In the kitchen, this is especially noticeable on the aerator and the spout. Choose a faucet with an easily removable aerator and preferably with a ceramic cartridge resistant to water minerals.

Shower Faucet without Bathtub

If it's a shower stall without a bathtub, you need only a shower faucet – either a wall-mounted lever or a thermostatic one. A shower set (bar with a handheld sprayer and hose) or a rainfall combination with a ceiling-mounted head is provided with it.

Practical tip from practice: During the renovation of old apartments, where there was originally a bathtub and the customer wants a shower stall, you will often encounter plumbing designed for a bathtub faucet with a 150 mm spacing. A ceiling-mounted shower faucet requires new plumbing (pipes are run along or through the wall) – this is a structural change, so plan for it in advance. A simpler alternative is to leave the existing plumbing and install a wall-mounted lever faucet with a shower, which connects to the same outlets.

Ceramic cartridge – the heart of every modern faucet

If you have seen old faucets with rubber seals, you know what it means: dripping, replacing the seals every two to three years, and gradual hardening of the tap. Modern Balletto faucets use ceramic cartridges, which are significantly more durable.

A ceramic cartridge works on the principle of two precisely ground ceramic plates – when the plates are moved, the opening opens, and when they are aligned, they close the water flow. Ceramics are hard, resistant to minerals and corrosion, and the lifespan of such a cartridge is typically 500,000 cycles or more – which corresponds to 15–20 years of regular use.

The standard diameter of the cartridge for Balletto lever faucets is 35 mm, which is the European standard. Smaller versions (25 mm) occur in mini-faucets. When replacing the cartridge, it is important to know the diameter and type of seat – more information can be found in the topic Replacing the seal and cartridge in a Balletto faucet DIY.

Additional accessories for Balletto faucets

A faucet alone is not enough – in most installations, you also buy accessories. Make sure you have:

Connecting hoses (flexi). Short connectors are usually included in the faucet package, but for easier installation, many plumbers prefer longer steel braided hoses (3/8" or 1/2", length 30–50 cm). Always choose certified hoses – cheap hoses are a source of unexpected failures.
Trap. If you are also changing the sink, you need a new trap of the correct drain diameter (32 mm or 40 mm depending on the sink).
Seals and PTFE tape. For sealing the threads to avoid the problem of "dripping supply" again.
Installation wrench. For installing a pedestal faucet, you need a special bent wrench (trap wrench / faucet wrench), because the nut under the sink is hard to reach.

Comparison: bathroom vs. kitchen faucet – what they have in common and where they differ

At first glance, many faucets look similar, but their construction is optimized for specific loads:

Parameter	Bathroom faucet	Kitchen faucet
Outlet height	100–230 mm	200–400 mm
Swivel spout	Rarely	Common (90–360°)
Pull-out sprayer	No	Available
Thermostatic version	Yes (shower, bathtub)	Rarely
Connection	G 1/2"	G 1/2" (3/8" in some models)
Preferred surface	Chrome, matte black, gold	Chrome, stainless steel, matte black

What to pay attention to when comparing Balletto with other brands

This question comes up regularly – why Balletto and not another brand? A detailed comparison can be found in the topic Balletto vs other brands of bathroom taps – what to focus on, but in short:

Balletto is positioned in the mid-price category, where it offers ceramic cartridges, readily available spare parts, and corresponding design versions suitable for modern bathrooms. It is not a premium European brand three times more expensive, nor is it a no-name product without service. For most bathroom projects in this segment, it is a practical and cost-balanced choice.

It is important to watch the following when comparing:

Availability of spare parts (cartridges, aerators) – with unknown brands, this becomes a problem after 5 years,
Thickness of the chrome layer (cheap taps have a thinner layer that peels sooner),
Weight of the tap body (lightweight taps = thinner cast material, shorter lifespan),
Warranty conditions and service in Slovakia.

Common mistakes when choosing – and how to avoid them

Experience from dozens of customer orders shows that people keep making the same mistakes:

1. Choosing based on a photo without measuring. A customer sees a nice photo, orders the tap – and the spout is either too low (spraying the sink) or the neck is too short (water runs off the sink). Always measure the reach and height of the spout before purchasing.

2. Buying a thermostatic tap for a low-pressure system. As we have mentioned – flow heaters and storage boilers with gravitational output have low pressure. A thermostat will work poorly or not at all in such conditions.

3. Buying an undermount tap without construction preparation. An undermount tap requires embedding the body before tiling. If you want an undermount tap in an already finished bathroom, you have to expect cutting and new tiling – which is a completely different cost level for the project.

4. Neglecting color/finish when combining with accessories. If you have a matte black tap, you need a matching shower set, soap dish, hooks, WC flush button, possibly a radiator – otherwise the bathroom looks like a mess. Planning all the accessories at once saves surprises.

5. Underestimating water hardness. In hard water without a softener or filter, you need to expect that the aerator will need cleaning every 3–6 months and that chrome surfaces will need regular polishing. Otherwise, the white layer becomes permanent.

Installation of Balletto tap – what you need to know before starting

A detailed step-by-step guide can be found in the topic Installation of a water tap Balletto step by step. Here are the essential rules:

Always close the main water supply or at least the shut-off valve under the sink/basin before installation.
Remove the old tap carefully – watch out for old threads that may break. If the thread is damaged or the connection is corroded, call a plumber.
Before connecting the hoses, let the water run for a while through the open supply lines (this will flush out impurities from the pipes that could damage the cartridges).
Tighten threaded connections manually and only slightly with a wrench – over-tightening may cause the PTFE sealing to crack the thread seat.
After installation, open the supply slowly and check the tightness of all connections before covering/finishing.

Lifespan and warranty conditions

Balletto taps come with a warranty according to the current conditions of the seller and manufacturer – standard is 24 months for consumers. The warranty does not cover normal wear of the cartridge in extremely hard water or improper installation (broken thread due to over-tightening, damage from excessive pressure).

The real lifespan of a well-maintained Balletto tap with standard water hardness and normal home use: 10–20 years, with the need for cartridge or aerator replacement after 7–10 years. Cartridge replacement is a simple task that you can do yourself (more in the topic Replacing the seal and cartridge in a Balletto tap yourself).

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Can I use a Balletto bathroom tap in the kitchen?

Technically yes – the connection dimensions are the same. But we do not recommend it in practice. Bathroom taps have a lower flow and shorter neck, which is not suitable for filling a pot or large sink. On the contrary, a kitchen tap with a high neck in the bathroom looks disproportionate and may spray water all over the sink. Always choose a tap intended for a specific location.

What is the minimum water pressure for Balletto taps?

For standard lever taps, 0.5 bar is sufficient, which covers even gravitational storage heaters. For thermostatic taps, the minimum is usually 1.0–1.5 bar, some models require 2 bar. Always check the technical specifications of the specific model or ask before purchasing. You can measure the pressure in your system with a simple manometer that can be attached to the outlet.

How do I know if I need to replace the cartridge and not the whole tap?

If the tap drips when closed (water flows from the spout even when the lever is closed), or the lever is stiff, or the temperature cannot be set precisely – these are signs of a worn cartridge. The body of the tap, piping and connections may still be in good condition. Replacing the cartridge costs a fraction of the price of a new tap and is a routine service task. More in the topic Common problems with water taps – dripping, stiff lever, weak flow.

Is there a difference between a tap for a flow heater and a tap for a boiler?

The tap itself does not distinguish between types of heating – it is a hydraulic element that mixes water. The difference is in the pressure conditions: a boiler (storage) may have lower hot water pressure compared to cold, which can cause instability in some thermostats. A flow heater requires a different minimum flow to start. Before choosing a tap, resolve the type of heater with a plumber and then choose the corresponding model of the tap.

Can I install a Balletto tap myself or do I need a plumber?

Replacing a sink-mounted or kitchen tap is within the scope of normal home skills – a sink wrench, PTFE tape and following the instructions will allow you to do it yourself. For a wall-mounted bath tap or an undermount tap, we recommend a plumber, especially if embedding the piping is required. A faulty installation of a wall-mounted bath tap can lead to a leak, which is much more expensive to fix than a plumber’s fee.

How does a matte black tap differ from a chrome one in terms of maintenance?

A matte black tap requires more delicate care – only a soft cloth, pH-neutral cleaner, no abrasives or aggressive descaling agents. Limescale stains are very visible on a black surface, so the tap should be wiped dry after each intensive use. A chrome surface is more resistant to common cleaning agents, but even shiny chrome can be damaged by strong acids (some aggressive descaling agents) and rough sponges. Both finishes can last many years without problems if handled properly.

Conclusion – summary of key steps when choosing

Choosing a Balletto water tap is not rocket science, but it does require at least five minutes of thinking before clicking "add to cart". Let's summarize the most important points:

Determine the water pressure at the installation site – especially important for thermostatic taps.
Measure the distance between outlets (for bath and shower taps), the height and reach of the spout (for sink and kitchen taps).
Decide on the type – lever, thermostatic, undermount – according to comfort needs, safety requirements and construction situation.
Match the surface finish with other accessories in the bathroom or kitchen.
Consider water hardness and adjust your expectations for cleaning and maintenance frequency accordingly.
Don’t underestimate accessories – hoses, seals, trap – a good installation also depends on the quality of connecting parts.

The entire range of Balletto taps is clearly listed at atria.sk/balletto/ with filtering by type, surface and usage. If after reading this article you are still unsure about your choice, also check out other topics in this Knowledge Centre – for example Common questions about Balletto taps or Balletto vs other brands of bathroom taps – what to focus on – where you will find further practical answers and comparisons.

Do you have a question about this topic?

Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.