How to choose Opera taps for the bathroom and kitchen

How to choose Opera taps for the bathroom and kitchen

Selecting the right tap may seem like a trivial matter at first glance – after all, what could possibly go wrong when buying a faucet? In practice, however, we often see that a poor choice of tap causes problems even before the plumber has a chance to pack up their tools. Customers then return with incorrect dimensions, unsuitable connection types, or a tap that doesn't fit their sink or bathtub. That's why it pays to spend enough time and attention on the selection – and this article will help you do it step by step.

Opera taps are available in the full product range at atria.sk and cover practically all common applications in the bathroom and kitchen – from simple sink taps to thermostatic shower sets. The wide range of options can make it difficult for customers to find the right product. This article will guide you through the logical steps of selection so that you bring home exactly what you need.

Step 1: Where will the tap be used – the installation location determines everything

The first and most important question is: where is the tap going? It may seem obvious, but in practice, customers often buy a "sink tap" without considering the outlet height, type of installation, or water pressure. Each installation location has its own specifications.

Bathroom sink

A sink tap is the most common type. It is mounted directly into the sink (a 35 mm diameter hole) or on the wall. The key parameter is the outlet height – for a shallow sink with a depth of 15–18 cm, a low outlet of up to 100 mm is sufficient, while for tall design sinks (so-called basins), you need an outlet of 200 mm or more. A mistake in this dimension means either water splashing all over the bathroom or a tap that is uncomfortable to use for handwashing.

Another consideration is the outlet reach. A straight outlet points directly downward, while a swivel outlet can be directed toward the center of the sink. For corner sinks or wall-mounted sinks, a swivel outlet is practically essential.

Shower and bathtub

A bathtub tap can be wall-mounted or freestanding (in the case of luxury tubs). A wall-mounted bathtub tap is mounted on the wall at a height of approximately 70–90 cm from the floor. It is important that the wall valves are at the correct distance from each other – the standard spacing is 150 mm between the centers of the hot and cold water inlets. If you have an older installation with a spacing of 120 mm or 160 mm, you will need extension or reducing fittings.

A shower tap (without a bathtub outlet) is usually mounted at a height of 100–120 cm from the floor. If it is a shower enclosure with a handheld shower, the tap is combined with a sliding rod. For comfortable showering, we also recommend considering a thermostatic tap – a topic we will cover later.

Kitchen sink

A kitchen tap must withstand much more intensive use than a bathroom tap – in an average household, it is used 30–50 times a day. Therefore, the durability of the cartridge is a key factor. The outlet height of a kitchen tap should be at least 180–220 mm so that you can comfortably wash large pots underneath. A swivel outlet (160–180°) is standard and allows you to free up space while working at the sink. With double sinks, you will appreciate a 360° swivel.

Step 2: Single-lever or double-handle tap?

This is a decision that affects daily use. A detailed comparison can be found in the article Single-lever vs. double-handle Opera taps: which one to choose, but here we summarize the basic differences.

Single-lever tap

A single-lever tap controlled by one lever (joystick) is today's absolute standard in bathrooms and kitchens. The lever moves in two axes: rotating left to right sets the temperature (mixing hot and cold water), while moving up and down regulates the flow. Inside is a ceramic cartridge with a diameter of 35 mm (standard) or 40 mm (comfort, quieter operation).

Advantages of a single-lever tap: quick one-handed adjustment of temperature and flow, easy to use for children and seniors, fewer moving parts than a double-handle tap, easier cartridge replacement during repairs.

Double-handle (double-lever) tap

A double-handle tap has two separate valves – one for hot and one for cold water. Temperature adjustment requires turning both handles at the same time, which is less practical for daily use. Despite this, it has its place – in retro and vintage interiors, it looks authentic, and many customers choose it for aesthetic reasons. The seals of the handle valves wear out over time and leak, which is their main disadvantage compared to the ceramic cartridge of a single-lever tap.

Step 3: Thermostatic tap – when is it worth it?

A thermostatic tap has a built-in thermostatic valve that automatically maintains the set water temperature, regardless of pressure fluctuations in the pipes. You will appreciate this especially in households where multiple outlets are used simultaneously (washing machine, flushing the toilet) – without a thermostatic tap, you will feel sudden temperature changes in the shower with each such task.

A thermostatic tap is practically essential for showering in family homes with multiple bathrooms and in households with small children, where setting a maximum temperature (usually 38–42 °C) is key for safety. The price of an Opera thermostatic tap is higher than that of a standard tap, but the investment pays off in comfort and water savings – you no longer waste time waiting for the right temperature with each shower.

Step 4: Dimensions and connection – what to measure before purchase

This is the technical part where customers most often make mistakes. For a more detailed overview, see the article Dimensions and connection of Opera taps: what to check before purchase, but here we will go through the most important parameters.

Threaded connection

Standard Opera taps are connected via supply hoses with a G 1/2" thread (external thread on angle valves, internal thread on the tap). This applies to 99% of standard bathrooms and kitchens. Exceptions are older installations from before 1990, where you may encounter direct connections or other dimensions – in such cases, an adapter is required.

Supply spacing

The standard center-to-center spacing of supply hoses (hot/cold) is 150 mm. Most Opera taps are designed for this spacing, and the supply hoses are flexible enough to compensate for a deviation of ±10–15 mm. If you have an older installation with a 120 mm spacing (an old standard in panel buildings), check this before purchase – some taps will allow it, others will not.

Height and reach of the spout

For a basin tap, a general rule is that the spout height should be at least 5–8 cm higher than the highest edge of the sink to comfortably wash your hands. The reach of the spout (horizontal distance from the center of the tap to the water outlet) should point over the center of the sink – for a tap mounted on the edge of the sink, this is usually 100–140 mm.

Wall mounting vs. mounting in a fixture

A wall-mounted tap has a different arrangement of connecting threads – horizontal spacing of 150 mm, with the threads embedded directly into the wall via an angle valve or a supply plug. A tap mounted directly into a fixture (e.g., into a sink) has one connecting hole with a diameter of 35 mm, and the supply hoses run through the body of the tap downward.

Step 5: Material, surface and design – not just aesthetics

Opera taps are made of brass (tap body) with a surface finish. Brass is standard and appropriate for plumbing fixtures – it is corrosion-resistant, can be precisely machined, and has a long service life. Do not buy cheap taps made of zinc (Zamak alloys) – you can recognize them by their light weight and low price, but they will last only a fraction of the life of a brass tap.

Surface finishes

The most common surface finish is chrome plating (electrolytic chrome plating). In quality Opera taps, the chrome layer is applied in several layers (copper → nickel → chrome), and the resulting thickness is at least 8–10 μm. A thin galvanic layer on cheap taps from other sources will start peeling off after 2–3 years.

In addition to classic chrome, Opera taps are also available in other surface finishes – matte chrome, matte black (black matt), gold, rose gold (brushed gold). A practical note from practice: dark and gold finishes look wonderful in a showroom, but they are more prone to visible water spots and fingerprints. If you are in an area with hard water, expect more frequent cleaning for dark taps. You will read more about this in the article Cleaning and maintenance of Opera taps for longer life.

Opera design tips

Within the Opera brand, you will find several design lines – from classic rounded shapes through modern angular series to minimalist cylindrical shapes. If you are outfitting a bathroom completely, it is definitely worth assembling a set: basin tap, bath/shower tap, possibly a bidet tap in the same design line and surface. This consistent solution looks much more professional than a mix of different series.

Step 6: Cartridge, water pressure and flow

The cartridge is the heart of every lever tap. A ceramic cartridge is standard for Opera taps – two ceramic plates slide against each other to regulate the flow and mixing of water. A quality cartridge (certified for 500,000 cycles) will last 10–15 years under normal use without replacement. If the cartridge starts to drip or squeak, be sure to read the article Replacing the seal and cartridge of an Opera tap – replacement is simple and inexpensive, not a reason to replace the entire tap.

Water pressure and compatibility

Opera taps are designed for a system with an operating pressure of 0.5–5 bar (some models 0.3–10 bar – always check the technical documentation). Most apartment water systems operate in the range of 2–4 bar, which is ideal pressure. In some older buildings on upper floors, the pressure may be less than 1 bar – in this case, verify the tap's compatibility, or consider pressure pumps.

The flow rate of a tap is given in liters per minute (l/min) at a reference pressure of 3 bar. A standard basin tap has a flow rate of 8–12 l/min, a kitchen tap 10–15 l/min. To limit the flow (water saving), use a aerator and eco-flow restrictor – this is described in detail in the article Opera taps with water saving: how aerators and eco-flow restrictors work.

Step 7: Accessories and kits

When purchasing an Opera tap, don't forget to check what is included in the packaging and what you need to buy separately.

• Supply hoses: Most Opera taps include them in the packaging (two hoses, usually 350 mm or 500 mm, braided with stainless steel mesh). Check the length – whether they reach the angle valves. If the valves are further away, buy longer hoses separately.
• Aerator: Usually included in the packaging, it is mounted on the tap spout. It limits the flow to 4–6 l/min and aerates the water stream, reducing consumption without the feeling of weak flow.
• Shower kit (for bath and shower taps): Some packages include a handheld shower, hose, and sliding rod. For other models, these are separate accessories – check the product description.
• Escutcheon (rosette): A cover that hides the hole in the wall for wall-mounted taps. Standard in the packaging, but if the hole diameter is non-standard, you may need to buy a larger one separately.
• Angle valves: Not part of the tap, but essential for proper installation. If you are replacing them (we recommend doing so with every tap replacement), buy quality brass, not plastic.

Step 8: How to Compare the Quality and Price of Opera Taps

Opera taps are in the mid-price range – that is, not the cheapest "no-name" series, but also not an extravagant premium brand. What do you get for this price? Brass body, certified ceramic cartridge, solid surface finish, and availability of spare parts. According to our experience, this is an optimal combination for a standard bathroom renovation or new construction.

When comparing with other brands, read the article Opera vs. Other Brands: Quality and Price Comparison, where you will find a detailed analysis. Here is a brief summary: do not buy taps without certifications (CE, WRAS or similar), without availability of spare parts, and without stated material of the body. Cheap taps for 10–15 € may seem like a saving, but you will have to replace them again in 2–3 years.

Practical scenarios from practice: what we've seen in customer orders

After years of dozens of bathroom renovations, certain patterns of mistakes and good decisions repeat themselves. Here are the most common ones.

Scenario 1: The customer bought a tap and found it didn't fit

A classic. The customer has a deep sink of 22 cm with a high rim, buys a tap with a 90 mm spout, and finds that the water is splashing all over the bathroom. Or the opposite – a low sink, a high tap with a 200 mm spout, and the water is splashing outside. Solution: before purchasing, measure the depth of the sink and the height of the rim from the tap hole, and choose the spout height accordingly.

Scenario 2: Inappropriate tap for a low-pressure system

In an old family house on a hill, the water pressure was only 0.8 bar. The customer bought a standard Opera tap with a minimum working pressure of 1 bar. Result: the tap worked, but the flow was insufficient and the thermostatic control did not function properly. Solution: for low-pressure systems, choose special models or install a small flow pump before the tap.

Scenario 3: The customer wanted to save money and bought a cheap replacement cartridge

The cartridge in the Opera tap was worn out, and instead of the original spare part, the customer bought an unknown Chinese replica for a third of the price. It worked for two months, then started dripping even worse than before the replacement. The original cartridge for Opera taps is available, cheap, and lasts much longer. It always pays to invest in an original part.

Scenario 4: Successful bathroom renovation thanks to thoughtful selection

A family with two children renovated their bathroom. They chose a thermostatic shower tap Opera (safety for children, water saving), a washbasin tap from the same design range in chrome (easy maintenance), and a kitchen tap with a 360° swivel spout and built-in aerator. Result: a unified design, satisfaction, no problems during the first 3 years of operation, and estimated water savings of 15–20 % compared to the previous solution.

Installation – basic information

Replacing or installing an Opera tap is manageable even for a skilled DIY enthusiast. The basic procedure is described in the article Installation of the Opera water tap step by step. Here is a warning: before any manipulation with plumbing fixtures, always shut off the water supply at the angle valves or at the main shut-off valve. Neglecting this step has caused countless floods.

If you are unsure, hire a certified plumber. Installation of the tap itself is not expensive (1–2 hours of work), but improper sealing of the threads can cause much more expensive damage. Use Teflon tape or sealing thread (not sealant!) on all connections.

For troubleshooting – dripping, weak pressure, squeaking lever – read the article Common problems with Opera taps: dripping, weak pressure, squeaking. Most common problems can be solved by yourself in 20–30 minutes.

Summary: Checklist before buying an Opera tap

• Where will the tap go? (washbasin, bath, shower, kitchen, bidet)
• What spout height do I need? (measure the depth of the washbasin and the height of the rim)
• What is the distance between the supply holes in the wall or in the fixture? (usually 150 mm)
• What is the length of the supply hoses? (measure the distance from the angle valve to the tap hole)
• What is the water pressure in my system? (roughly from experience or by measurement)
• Do I want a single-lever, two-handle, or thermostatic tap?
• What surface and design do I want? (is it consistent with the rest of the bathroom?)
• What is included in the package? (supply hoses, aerator, shower set?)
• Are spare parts (cartridge) available for the selected model?

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Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)

How do I determine the spout height I need for my washbasin?

Measure the height of the top rim of the washbasin from the point where the tap will be mounted (i.e., from the surface of the hole or from the wall), and subtract the position of the spout during normal use. Simpler: stand in front of the washbasin and check if you have enough space under the spout to wash your hands. If the washbasin is deep (>18 cm) or it is a freestanding "basin" washbasin, choose a spout of at least 180–200 mm. For standard built-in washbasins, 100–130 mm is sufficient.

Can I replace an Opera tap myself, or do I need a plumber?

Most customers can replace a washbasin tap themselves – you only need an adjustable wrench, Teflon tape, and 30–45 minutes. It is important to shut off the water supply and properly seal the threads. For wall-mounted taps (bath, shower) built into the wall, it is better to call a plumber, especially if you need to interfere with the installation inside the wall. The procedure is described in the article Installation of the Opera water tap step by step.

What does it mean when the tap leaks from the outlet after installation?

Leaking from the outlet after closing the lever usually indicates a worn or damaged cartridge. This can also happen with a new tap if the cartridge was damaged during installation (e.g., due to excessive pressure or dirt in the pipes). The solution is to replace the cartridge – it is a quick and inexpensive repair. The procedure is described in the article Replacing the Seal and Cartridge of the Opera Tap. Do not buy a new tap right away.

Are Opera taps suitable for an electric flow water heater?

Yes, but with an important condition: the flow heater requires a minimum opening pressure (usually 0.5–1.0 bar). Make sure that the selected Opera tap model has a minimum operating pressure that meets the heater's requirements. Also, do not use thermostatic taps with a flow heater – the thermostat reacts to temperature changes, which can cause system instability. A classic single-lever tap is more suitable.

How long will an Opera tap last with regular use?

With proper installation, regular maintenance, and soft water (hardness up to 3 mmol/l), Opera taps can last 10–15 years without major repairs. In areas with very hard water (over 4 mmol/l), the cartridge and aerator become clogged more quickly – we recommend regular aerator cleaning (every 6–12 months) and, if necessary, the installation of a water softener. A detailed cleaning procedure can be found in the article Cleaning and Maintenance of Opera Taps for Longer Lifespan.

Is there a universal cartridge for all Opera tap models?

No, there is not. Cartridges differ in diameter (35 mm is standard, 40 mm for comfort series), height, and type of mounting. Always specify the exact tap model when ordering a replacement cartridge or measure it physically. Most Opera taps have the size engraved on the cartridge. If you are unsure, consult before ordering – choosing the wrong cartridge means extra work.

Conclusion

Selecting an Opera water tap is not rocket science, but it does require some preparation and knowledge of your installation. If you answer a few basic questions before purchasing – where the tap is going, what dimensions you need, what pressure your system has, and what design you want – you will eliminate 90% of the problems that cause customers to return to the store. The entire Opera tap product range is available at atria.sk and covers all common needs – from simple basin taps to comfortable thermostatic shower systems. If you have a specific question about technical specifications or compatibility, further answers can be found in the article Frequently Asked Questions About Opera Taps.

Do you have a question about this topic?

Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.

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