How to Choose Viking Water Taps for the Bathroom and Kitchen
How to choose Viking water taps for the bathroom and kitchen: a complete guide
Purchasing a water tap may seem like a trivial matter at first glance – after all, it's just a faucet, right? In practice, however, it turns out that choosing the wrong tap is one of the most common mistakes when renovating a bathroom or kitchen. Customers buy a tap that looks good in design but doesn't fit the dimensions. Or they choose a type that is unsuitable for their water pressure. They may also underestimate the difference between lever and thermostatic models. The result? Unnecessary expenses, complicated installation, and sometimes even a damaged tap after just a few months.
This article will help you systematically go through all the steps of selection so that you can choose a Viking tap that will work long-term, meet your requirements, and be properly installable in your specific situation at home. We will look at tap types, technical parameters, installation conditions, design, and economic and ecological considerations.
Why Viking? A short introduction to the context
Viking taps are a product line focused on the mid-price segment with an emphasis on reliability and the availability of spare parts. From the perspective of installation practice, these are taps that can be serviced – which is much more important than it seems when choosing a tap. Cheap unknown Asian brands may look tempting at first, but after a year of operation, you will find that you are looking for cartridges that no one stocks here. Viking solves this problem by making spare parts – mainly cartridges and seals – actually available, and customers can replace them themselves.
For those who are interested in service details, I recommend reading the topics Replacing seals and cartridges in Viking taps and Common Viking tap faults and how to eliminate them, where these procedures are described step by step.
Types of installation locations: bathroom vs. kitchen vs. shower
The first and basic decision is to determine where the tap is going. This may sound obvious, but customers sometimes underestimate it – for example, they buy a bathroom tap with low flow and then find out that you can't even properly wash a glass under it. Or they buy a kitchen tap with a fixed spout without a swivel arm, which is very impractical in the kitchen.
Bathroom taps
Bathroom taps are designed for holes in the sink with a diameter of 35 mm (standard DN35) or in some cases 25 mm. Important parameters are the height of the tap body and the length (projection) of the spout. A standard bathroom tap has a spout length of 100–150 mm and an outlet height of 80–120 mm above the sink. If you have a deep or high sink (for example, a free-standing basin), you will need a tap with a higher spout or a so-called high-pressure wall-mounted tap with a long body.
For undermount sinks (counter-top) or sinks without a hole, wall-mounted taps are used – so-called wall taps. Here, the critical dimensions are the distance of the connection axis from the wall and the height of the connection above the sink. You must have these dimensions precisely mapped out before ordering.
Kitchen taps
Kitchen taps must handle much more demanding operation than bathroom taps – filling large pots, washing vegetables, spraying water during various activities. Therefore, kitchen taps are usually higher (spout height of 200–350 mm above the sink) and have a long swivel arm (150–220 mm projection). Some models also offer a pull-out spray or a rotating aerator head – practically useful features that you will appreciate every day.
The installation hole in the sink is the same as in the sink – a diameter of 35 mm. If you have an old sink with two holes (for an old two-tap installation), you will need either an adapter or a new sink.
Shower and bathtub taps
Shower and bathtub taps are dimensioned for a higher water flow – on average 12–20 liters per minute, while bathroom taps have an aerator limiting the flow to 5–8 l/min. When showering, you want enough water and a stable temperature, which is an argument for thermostatic taps. Bathtub taps also need a switch between the outlet into the bathtub and the shower.
Shower taps are installed on the wall – either into the wall (undermount installation) or on the wall (overmount installation). An undermount tap is more aesthetically clean but requires wall modification during renovation. An overmount tap is easier to install and service, but the connections are visible.
Water pressure in the household: a crucial technical parameter
One of the most commonly underestimated variables when choosing a tap is water pressure. Most Viking taps are designed for pressure in the range of 0.5 to 10 bars, which covers the vast majority of Slovak households connected to the public water supply (typical pressure is 3–6 bars). Problems arise in two extremes.
Low water pressure – problems and solutions
In older houses, higher floors of apartment buildings, or houses with their own well, water pressure may be lower than 1 bar. Standard taps with aerators behave unsatisfactorily at such pressure – the flow is weak, and the aerator does not work properly. In such cases, you need a tap certified for low pressure (so-called low-pressure taps) or we recommend consulting the use of a pressure tank water heater, which has its own output pressure conditions.
For showers in low-pressure systems, special shower valves adapted for pressures from 0.1 bar are suitable – these have larger cross-sectional valve openings and differently designed cartridges. A standard valve in such a system will work, but the shower will be weak and unsatisfactory.
High water pressure
On the other hand, with pressure above 6 bars (which can occur in some new buildings or when directly connected to the supply without a pressure regulator), the lifespan of the valve can be shortened – especially seals and cartridges wear out faster. We recommend installing a pressure regulator (reducing valve) on the main supply line to limit the pressure to 3–4 bars. This will extend the lifespan not only of the valves, but also of the entire plumbing system and appliances.
Lever vs. thermostatic valve: a crucial difference in comfort and safety
This is one of the most important decisions when choosing shower and bathtub valves. The topic is also covered in a separate article Lever vs. thermostatic Viking valve: which one is suitable for your case, here we focus on practical decision-making.
Lever (single-handle) valve
A lever valve controls temperature and flow with one lever – moving sideways changes the temperature, moving up/down changes the flow. It works on the principle of a ceramic cartridge that mixes cold and hot water in a set ratio. Every time you turn the valve on, it starts from the position where you last left the lever – which in practice means that after a previous shower at 38 °C, the water will start at that temperature when you open it again. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage: convenient, but also risky (e.g., children who open the valve fully).
Lever valves are cheaper, simpler to maintain and sufficient for most households with relatively stable pressure and hot water temperature.
Thermostatic valve
A thermostatic valve has two control elements: one for temperature (you set it once, e.g., 38 °C, and the valve remembers it) and one for flow. The thermostat automatically compensates for pressure and temperature fluctuations in the pipes – when someone flushes the toilet in the house and the cold water pressure briefly drops, the thermostatic valve automatically adjusts the mixing ratio to keep the temperature constant. In a lever valve, you would be scalded by a sudden flow of hot water at that moment.
Thermostatic valves are suitable for families with children, for the elderly, or anywhere safety and comfort are the top priority. They are more expensive and their maintenance (replacing the thermostatic cartridge) is more costly, but with regular maintenance they last very long. From a hygiene perspective, it is also an advantage that thermostatic valves can be set to 60 °C (anti-legionella program), which periodically heats the pipes to eliminate Legionella bacteria.
Dimensions and connection: what to measure before ordering
Dimensional compatibility is the most common source of complications when replacing a valve. The topic is covered in detail in the article Dimensions and connection of Viking valves: what to check before purchase, but we summarize the basic parameters here as well.
Distance between connections
Most European wall-mounted valves have one connection (center DN35), but wall and bathtub valves have two connections (cold and hot water). The standard distance between connections is 150 mm center-to-center. This is the so-called European standard, which applies to the vast majority of modern installations. Older installations may have a distance of 130 mm or other – in such cases, you must either use flexible hoses of sufficient length or rework the connections.
Connection thread diameter
The standard external thread of the valve connection is G1/2" (half-inch). This corresponds to the internal thread G1/2" on the valve body. The connection is sealed with hemp and glue or teflon. Some bathtub and shower valves have connections with G3/4" thread – this is less common, but needs to be verified in the technical documentation of the specific model.
Installation height for wall-mounted valves
For wall-mounted valves on a sink, the standard height of the center of the connections above the top edge of the sink is 180–250 mm. For shower valves, a height of 100–120 cm from the floor is recommended (for a classic shower cubicle), while the shower outlet is at a different height. Bathtub valves have connections 15–25 cm above the edge of the tub.
Surface finishes and design: what really lasts
Selecting a radiator surface is not just an aesthetic choice – different surface treatments have different resistance to moisture, cleaning agents, and mechanical wear. For more detailed information, also see the article Surface finishes of Viking radiators: chrome, black, gold – what lasts in the bathroom.
Chrome (electroplated chrome)
Chrome-plated surface is a classic for good reason. Electroplated chrome (not plating) is resistant to moisture, easy to clean, and under normal use lasts 15–25 years without visible wear. The downside is water stains, which are very visible on shiny chrome – in areas with hard water (typically Bratislava and surroundings), you will need to wipe the radiator almost every day if you want it to look brand new.
Matte black (PVD or powder coating)
Black radiators are a current design trend and look really good in the bathroom. It is essential to distinguish the surface technology: PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) is a technology of metal deposition in a vacuum – the result is an extremely durable, hard, and long-lasting surface. A cheaper alternative is powder coating or ordinary lacquered surface – these are less resistant to abrasive cleaning agents and may chip or scratch.
Black PVD radiators have the advantage that water stains are less visible on them – which you will appreciate with hard water. But beware: cleaning a black radiator with aggressive agents can damage it faster than chrome.
Gold and bronze surface finishes
Gold or bronze radiators are very effective in design when combined with dark flooring or wooden décor. Technologically, they are solved the same way as black ones – either PVD or lacquer. PVD gold surfaces are durable and long-lasting. Lacquered gold surfaces need to be cleaned carefully – no aggressive agents, no abrasive sponges.
Matching radiators with other accessories
In practice, it is highly recommended to choose one surface finish and consult other bathroom accessories (hangers, holders, mirror, shelves) to ensure they match. Mixing chrome and black elements in one bathroom can work design-wise intentionally, but an uncoordinated mix looks chaotic.
Eco and economic perspective: water-saving radiators
Modern Viking radiators are designed with water consumption in mind. This topic is covered in detail in the article Viking water-saving radiators: ecological and economic options, but the basic principles are as follows.
Aerator is a small element on the spout outlet that mixes water with air – the result is a full, soft water stream at a lower actual flow rate. The standard flow rate without an aerator is 12–15 l/min, with an aerator it is 5–8 l/min while maintaining subjective comfort. For an average family, this means thousands of liters of water saved per year. Aerators are replaceable, available with various flow rates (2 l/min, 4 l/min, 6 l/min, 8 l/min), and can be purchased as spare parts.
Another option for saving is the so-called Eco button – some handles have a mechanical stop in the middle of the lever range, which limits the maximum temperature without conscious effort. During regular hand washing, the radiator automatically delivers warm or cold water instead of fully mixed hot water, thus saving thermal energy.
With shower radiators, the flow rate of the shower heads also has a big impact – but that is the topic of showers themselves. Viking shower radiators usually allow connecting a head with any flow rate, so choosing a radiator and choosing an eco-friendly head are independent decisions.
Installation: what you can do yourself and when you need a plumber
Replacing a radiator with another of the same type and with the same connections is essentially a simple task that can be handled by a regular homeowner without special qualifications. A detailed procedure is available in the article Installation of Viking water radiator step by step. Here is a brief summary:
- Before any work, shut off the water supply – either at the radiator itself (corner valves under the sink), or at the main shut-off valve.
- Unscrew the old radiator, clean the area from old Teflon and seals.
- Wrap the new thread with Teflon (3–5 layers in the direction of the thread) or use hemp fiber with sealing paste.
- Hand-tighten the radiator and then with a wrench – not too tightly (risk of cracking the radiator body).
- Turn on the water, check for leaks, tighten if necessary.
Wall-mounted radiators, changing the connection spacing, or any work on the main water supply should be performed by a qualified plumber – here not only technical risks are involved, but also legal responsibility for water leaks.
Practical scenarios from renovation practice
Based on experience from dozens of orders, we will describe several typical situations that customers encounter.
Scenario 1: Replacing old two-tap radiators in a panel apartment
The most common case in Slovakia. Panel apartments mostly have old installations with two connections (spacing 150 mm or 130 mm), and you want to replace the old two-tap radiators with modern lever ones. It is key to measure the spacing of the connections – if it is 150 mm, you are in the standard and the choice is simple. If it is 130 mm, you need either flexible hoses with a larger lift or have a plumber reposition the connections.
Another problem in panel apartment practice: old wall connections are sometimes rotated in terms of hot/cold – in old installations, hot water was not always on the left. Before installing the radiator, test which connection is hot and adjust the cartridge or hoses accordingly.
Scenario 2: Full bathroom renovation – choice of surface
During a complete renovation, you have a free choice. The decision on the surface of the radiator should be made early, as it affects the selection of other accessories. A very successful combination is: matte black radiator + matte black shower + wooden decorative accessories + light tiles. This combination looks timeless and stays in trends longer than gold details, which can quickly look outdated.
Scenario 3: New shower radiator for a family with children
We strongly recommend a thermostatic shower radiator set to a maximum of 38–40 °C for families with children. A child who turns on the water by themselves cannot be scalded, as the thermostat will not allow hotter water to flow (unless the thermal limit is actively deactivated). A lever radiator should have at least a thermal stop at 38 °C, but this can be easily bypassed – which is not possible with a thermostat.
Scenario 4: Replacing a kitchen radiator – why the height of the spout matters
Sometimes customers buy a kitchen radiator with a low spout (150 mm) for a classic two-compartment sink with a depth of 200 mm. The result: you cannot properly fill a pot, and your hands hit the spout while washing. A proper kitchen radiator has a spout height of at least 200–220 mm above the sink surface, ideally with a long swivel arm (180–200 mm reach), so you can comfortably use both compartments of the sink.
Cleaning and long-term care of Viking radiators
A Viking radiator with proper care will last 15–20 years without major problems. The key rules are simple. Clean the cartridge at least once every 3–6 months – soak it in a 5% vinegar solution for 30 minutes. Clean the body of the radiator with a soft cloth and mild cleaning agent – never use abrasive sponges, wire brushes or aggressive acids (they damage the surface). Seals and O-rings are replaceable – the first sign of wear is dripping from the spout or body of the radiator after closing. This topic is covered in the article Cleaning and maintenance of Viking radiators: how to extend their lifespan.
In hard water areas (Záhorie, Bratislava, Nitra), the installation of a softening device (deionizing filter or salt softener on the main inlet) is a great help. Hard water with calcium content above 20 °dH causes limescale deposits in cartridges, aerators and on the surface of the radiator, dramatically shortening their lifespan.
Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How do I find out what water pressure I have at home and whether a Viking radiator is suitable for me?
The easiest way is to buy a cheap manometer (pressure gauge) with a G1/2" thread – you attach it to the outlet and measure the current pressure. Alternatively, a plumber can measure the pressure during the first visit. Most Viking radiators are suitable for a range of 0.5–10 bar, which covers almost all Slovak households. If you have a well with a pressure pump, the pressure depends on the pump's manometer setting – typically 2–4 bar, which is fine.
Can I replace a Viking radiator myself without a plumber?
Replacing a standing radiator with a radiator of the same type (same position, same type of connection) is manageable for a handy homeowner. You need an adjustable wrench, Teflon tape or hemp fiber with sealing paste, and 30–60 minutes of time. Replacing an under-sink radiator, changing the position of the connections, or working on the main pipe layout should be left to a plumber.
How long will a Viking radiator last and when is it time for a replacement?
With proper maintenance (regular descaling of the cartridge, mild cleaning agent, normal water pressure), Viking radiators last 15–20 years. Signs that it is time for a replacement are: constant dripping even after replacing the cartridge, visible corrosion on the surface, a loose or jammed lever, and cracked seals. Sometimes it is economically more advantageous to replace the entire radiator than to service it – especially with older models, where spare parts are less available.
What is an aerator and why is it important?
An aerator is a small metal or plastic element screwed into the spout outlet. It contains filters that break up the water stream and mix air into it – the result is a soft, full stream without splashing. In addition to comfort, the aerator significantly reduces water flow (from 12–15 l/min to 4–8 l/min) without you perceiving it as a weak stream. Aerators should be replaced every 6–24 months depending on local water hardness and are available in various flow rates.
Are black Viking radiators resistant to scratches in the bathroom?
It depends on the surface technology. Viking radiators with a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) surface are very durable – the surface hardness is comparable to ceramic. Radiators with a painted black surface are less durable and require more careful cleaning (no abrasive agents). Information on the type of surface can be found in the technical sheet or description of a specific model. If in doubt, use nothing but a soft damp cloth and mild neutral cleaner on black radiators.
What is the difference between lever radiators for a sink and for a kitchen – are they interchangeable?
Technically, the connections are the same (DN35, G1/2"), so the installation is possible. But practically – kitchen radiators have a significantly higher and longer spout with a swivel arm, which is essential for a sink. A sink radiator in the kitchen will be uncomfortable (low spout, short arm). A kitchen radiator at the sink can be too high and visually unbalanced. Therefore, we recommend always choosing a radiator intended for a specific position.
Conclusion: systematic selection saves time and money
Selecting a Viking radiator is not about which one looks the nicest in the catalog. It is a combination of technical parameters (water pressure, connection dimensions, spout height, cartridge type), practical requirements (children's safety, comfort, water saving) and long-term operating costs (availability of spare parts, ease of service). If you answer these questions before ordering, you can be almost certain that the new radiator will work exactly as you expect – and will not bother you for the next 15–20 years.
If you are unsure about any technical detail, read the recommended articles in this Knowledge Center – each of them addresses a specific area in more detail than is possible in this summary. And if you are looking for a specific model, check the current offer of Viking radiators at atria.sk, where you will find the full range with technical parameters.
Do you have a question about this topic?
Can't decide or are you dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.