How to Properly Mount Clamps and Rails for Pipes

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How to correctly install pipe clamps and brackets – complete practical guide

Securing pipes is one of those things that at first glance looks like a detail, but in practice it determines whether the entire heating or water installation will work reliably for decades, or whether problems will appear after a few years – vibrations, noise, cracked clamps, even leaks at the joints. I have seen hundreds of jobs where the welder did a great job on the boiler, but then messed up the securing – and the result was accordingly. This guide is therefore intended for everyone who wants to do the installation correctly from the beginning: from choosing the right clamp or bracket through drilling and anchoring to the final inspection.

We will mainly focus on the Hepworth system, which we work with daily, but most of the procedures are universal for plastic, copper and combined pipe systems.

Why is proper pipe securing so important?

Before we get into the technicalities, it is necessary to understand what securing actually does and why poor securing causes so much damage. Pipes in a hot water or heating system expand thermally when heated. For plastic pipes (PB, PP, PEX), this coefficient is significantly higher than for copper – for example, polybutene pipes expand by approximately 8–10 mm per linear meter with a temperature change of 50 °C. For copper, it is significantly less, but still not negligible.

If the clamps are too tight and do not allow movement, the pipe will bend, form an arc and in the worst case will stress the joints with tension or torsion. If, on the other hand, they are too loose or there are too few of them, the pipe will hang, vibrate and produce a characteristic knocking sound during pump pulsations. Both extremes are bad – and the correct approach lies exactly in the middle between them.

That is why it is essential to combine fixed points with sliding (sliding) supports for plastic pipes. A fixed point holds the pipe absolutely in one place – expansion spreads from there in both directions. A sliding point holds the direction and prevents buckling, but allows longitudinal movement. More about this principle can be found in the article Clamps vs. brackets for pipe securing – when to use which and also in How to correctly install a fixed loop for pipe 15–18 mm.

Types of securing – clamps, brackets, clips and their differences

There are several basic types of pipe securing on the market and each has its place. It is not a matter of price or preference – it is a matter of technical correctness for a given type of installation.

Simple clamps (clips)

Plastic or metal clips that snap directly onto the pipe. They are quick to install, cheap and suitable where there are smaller securing distances and normal operating conditions. Disadvantage: with larger expansion, they can crack – low-cost plastic clips are particularly prone to this in winter, when they are stressed at low temperatures with cold pipes.

Brackets for pipe securing

Brackets are mainly intended for installations with multiple parallel pipes – typically for heating system distribution to radiators in an apartment core or for securing multiple distribution lines next to each other in a technical room. The bracket is fixed to the wall once and several pipes are inserted or caught in it. This significantly speeds up the work and the result looks neat. For the Hepworth system, we recommend looking at pipe securing bracket 16 mm for pipes with an outer diameter of 16 mm, or at pipe securing bracket 16–18 mm, which also covers a slightly larger dimension.

Wall anchors and adapters

Technically speaking, a wall anchor is not a clamp for securing a pipe to the wall – it is a sealed passage element or joint. However, in the context of securing, it plays an important role where the pipe passes through a wall or a drywall partition and needs to be fixed tightly at that point. For copper installations, wall anchor for copper pipe 15×1 EK is a common element that also performs the function of sealing and mechanical securing in the passage. For a combination with PB plastic pipe, there is wall anchor 15×1 EK for copper or PB pipe, which allows connecting a PB pipe to a copper fitting.

Securing distances – specific values for different materials

This is where the most mistakes are made. Installers usually secure the pipe by eye or according to where a nail happens to be in the wall. The correct approach is to start from the recommended maximum distances for a given material and dimension.

As you can see from the graph, plastic pipe requires significantly shorter spacing of supports than copper. This is due to the lower modulus of elasticity of plastic – a plastic pipe will sag much sooner under its own weight (plus the weight of water) than copper. The specific recommended maximum spacing for horizontal piping are:

Copper pipe 12 mm: max. 1 000 mm
Copper pipe 15 mm: max. 1 200 mm
Copper pipe 18 mm: max. 1 500 mm
Copper pipe 22 mm: max. 1 500–1 800 mm
PB/PP pipe 16 mm: max. 500 mm for hot water (40–60 °C)
PB/PP pipe 16 mm: max. 800 mm for cold water (up to 20 °C)
PB/PP pipe 20 mm: max. 700 mm for hot water
PEX pipe 16 mm: max. 600 mm for hot water
PEX pipe 20 mm: max. 700 mm for hot water

For vertical runs (risers), you can usually increase the spacing by 20–30 %, as gravity acts in a different direction. However, for vertical risers, it is recommended to secure the pipe at least at each floor level (every 2.5–3 m). If you have doubts about the correct dimensions for your specific diameter, read the article What size of clip or bracket do I need for my pipe.

Base material and anchoring – what you need to know before installation

Before installing the clip itself, you need to know what you are anchoring into. This phase determines whether the clip will remain secure for decades or loosen within a few months. The following rules have been proven in practice:

Brick and concrete

The best base. Anchoring into concrete and solid brick is done using a standard plug with a screw. Always drill perpendicular to the surface, and the plug must fit tightly into the hole – it must not rotate. The diameter of the plug corresponds to the diameter of the screw (usually S6 or S8 for standard clips, S10 for heavier fixings). The depth of the hole should be at least 5 mm deeper than the length of the plug, so you can clean out the dust without filling the hole.

For secure anchoring of brackets over a longer section, it is advantageous to use the KOMBI M8 screw, which allows you to use a plug in concrete as well as a wood anchor in wooden structures without changing the screw – the head is combined. This saves time when the bracket runs through different types of base material in one row.

Gypsum board and light partitions

This is where the biggest problem lies. Gypsum board by itself has no load-bearing capacity for anchoring elements – it depends on the profile behind it. Pipe clips are always anchored either into metal CW/UW profiles or through the gypsum board into a wooden frame. If this is not possible, use gypsum board plugs such as Molly or Toggle bolt – they have an expansion system that expands behind the board. For heavier fixings (larger pipe diameter, multiple pipes on one bracket), anchoring into the profile is always better.

Wood and wooden structures

Screws directly into wood – without a plug. Screw diameter 4–5 mm, minimum length 40 mm, to ensure sufficient strength of the anchoring. Pre-drill before installation to avoid splitting the wood. In old, dry wood, you can tighten the screw more firmly, but do not tighten blindly – most plastic holders of clips have only limited torque before breaking.

Step by step – installation process of the pipe bracket

Here is a detailed step-by-step installation process of the bracket, as you should do it in practice:

Step 1 – Marking the route and anchoring points. Before any drilling, mark the entire route of the pipe with a pencil or chalk. Determine where the fixed points (permanent supports) and where the sliding points will be. On longer runs (over 3 m), there should be at least one fixed point. Check whether there are electrical lines or existing pipes behind the wall at the drilling points – the easiest way is to use a detector under the plaster.

Step 2 – Pre-drilling holes. Use a drill bit matching the diameter of the plug. For standard S6, this is a 6 mm bit, for S8 a 8 mm bit. Drill perpendicular to the wall. After each hole, clean out the dust by blowing or using a small vacuum – dust in the hole significantly reduces the strength of the plug.

Step 3 – Installing the plugs. Drive the plug into place with a hammer so that its face is level with the surface or at most 1 mm below it. Never let it protrude – the bracket would then not be flat against the wall.

Step 4 – Screwing in the bracket. Place the bracket, align it using a spirit level, and start screwing from the center to the edges. Do not tighten the first hole fully right away – leave a small gap until you have inserted the screw into the last hole, and then tighten all screws. This prevents deformation of the bracket.

Step 5 – Inserting the pipe and closing the clips. Insert the pipe into the bracket (usually snapping it in from above) and close the clips. At sliding points, do not tighten the clips fully – leave a minimum clearance of about 0.5 mm so that the pipe can move along the bracket.

Step 6 – Check level and firmness. Pull the pipe from all sides. The strip must not move, sag, or show any springiness. Place a spirit level – the horizontal pipe should be straight or have a slight upward slope towards the drain valve (minimum 3 mm/m in the direction of flow or drainage).

Special situations – corners, wall penetrations and direction changes

In practice, there are few installations where the pipe runs only straight. Changes in direction, wall penetrations and connections to fittings – all these are places where fastening requires special attention.

Fastening at corners and bends

At every change of direction, a clamp or fastening element must be placed no more than 50–100 mm before and after the fitting. The fitting (elbow, T-joint) must not carry the weight of the entire pipe section – it must be relieved of mechanical stress. This is especially important in copper installations, where the joints are soldered, and in plastic installations with crimped or compressed joints.

In practice, this is done by fixing the elbow to the wall via a small cantilever bracket (or using a special support clamp for fittings) and additionally fastening the pipe from each side of the arm within 100 mm from the elbow. This leaves the elbow free and transfers the stress to the wall, not to the joint.

Passing through a wall or ceiling

When passing through masonry, always install a protective sleeve (gasket or plastic sleeve), through which the pipe passes freely. The sleeve protects the pipe from abrasion by the masonry and at the same time allows longitudinal movement during expansion. Never permanently seal the pipe in the masonry passage – a sealed passage without flexible material will cause the expansion to "break" in the wall and damage the protective layer or insulation.

When passing through a gypsum board partition, you can use a fixed bracket in the passage position – for example, fixed bracket for copper pipe 15×1 EK serves as a tight, fixed point directly in the wall without additional anchors.

Insulation of the pipe and its influence on the choice of clamp

Many installers forget that if the pipe is additionally insulated (thermal or anti-condensation insulation), the clamp or strip must have an internal diameter corresponding to the insulated pipe, not the bare pipe. This is a typical mistake in renovations, when the installation is done in phases – clamps are placed on the bare pipe and only later the installer asks where that insulation is.

Correct procedure: if the pipe is to be insulated, choose clamps with a larger diameter (circumference of the insulation + 2–3 mm clearance). Alternatively, use clips that are mounted on the insulation (larger diameter) – these are designed for this purpose and have a soft contact surface so that they do not compress the insulation and do not reduce its thermal performance.

Fastening of pipe in underfloor heating and in suspended ceilings

A special chapter is the fastening of distribution pipes that run in a suspended ceiling (cassette ceiling, gypsum board ceiling) or in a technical shaft. Here, clamps and strips are mounted on hanger rods or on cross beams. The hanger rod must be dimensioned for the tensile force corresponding to the weight of the pipe with water – for each meter of 22 mm copper pipe with water it is approximately 2–3 kg, for each meter of 16 mm PB with water only about 0.5 kg. For a larger number of parallel pipes in one hanger, the values are added.

In suspended ceilings, we recommend strips before individual clamps – one fixed hanger point supports the entire strip with multiple pipes and the result is much neater and more accessible for service. Even in this situation, the strip for pipe fastening 16–18 mm is suitable, which fastens the two most common diameters of Hepworth systems in one body.

Typical mistakes during installation of clamps and strips – and how to avoid them

Over the years of practice I have seen really different things. Here are the most common mistakes that are repeated even by experienced installers:

Too few clamps. The installer "saves" on material and places clamps every 80 cm instead of 50 cm for PB pipe. Result: the pipe bends, creates noticeable arcs when heated, and knocks during heating.
Clamp sealed to the pipe without clearance for expansion. Plastic pipe must "expand" somewhere during heating – if it cannot do so with sliding clamps, it will do so at the joint. Result: leakage or torn fitting.
Fastening into an unsuitable base. A clamp in gypsum board without a profile or on mounting adhesive is only a visual illusion of fastening. It holds for months, not years.
Forgotten fastening before and after the fitting. The fitting must never be the source of mechanical support for the entire pipe section. Joints at fittings are the most vulnerable places.
Ignoring slope in horizontal routing. A pipe without slope towards drainage cannot be properly vented or drained. A minimum slope of 3 mm/m is essential.
Insufficiently cleaned holes during anchoring. Dust in the hole reduces the strength of the anchor by up to 50%. Always clean the hole before inserting the anchor.
Mixing different clamp systems without checking compatibility. Not all clips are interchangeable. A clip for 16 mm PB pipe from one manufacturer may not fit a strip from another manufacturer.

A more detailed analysis of errors including photos from practice can be found in the article Common mistakes in pipe fastening and how to avoid them and solutions to existing problems in Loose or cracked clamps – causes and solutions.

Installation during renovation vs. new construction – what is the difference

With new construction, you have the luxury: empty walls, accessible spaces, and you can route the pipes according to technically correct principles. With renovation, it is rarely the case. You have to deal with existing structures, unsuitable substrates, limited access, and not infrequently with the need to fix the previous "creative" work of the predecessor.

During renovation, it is therefore important to spend enough time inspecting the substrate before installation. Check the strength of existing clamps – by hand and visually. If plastic clamps are brittle (they crack when slightly bent), change color to yellow, or are deformed – replace the entire system. Aged plastics lose flexibility and are not able to hold the pipe securely.

Also, during the renovation of a plastic installation to a newer one (for example, when switching from old PP pipes to PB or PEX), check whether the existing clamps match the new dimensions. The outer diameter of PEX 16 mm and PP 16 mm can be different – PEX usually has an exact outer diameter of 16 mm, while PP and PB also do, but the tolerances on the outer layer differ. If a clamp tightly grips a pipe made of a different material than it was designed for, it will either crack or damage the surface layer of the pipe.

Practical tips from everyday jobs

A few things you will discover yourself only after ten jobs, but it is better to know them from the start:

Always bring more clamps than you think you will need. On every job, an unexpected branch, an extra short section, or a damaged clamp will appear. Going to buy them on the job is a waste of time and money.
Cut strips with an angle grinder, not with a hand saw. A hand saw tends to splinter the edges and the pipe will then be difficult to insert into the strip. An angle grinder provides a clean cut.
Heat plastic pipes in winter before snapping them into clamps. Below 10 °C, some plastics become harder and clamps are difficult to snap in – forcing them risks cracking. It is enough to warm the pipe in your hands or with a hot air gun for a moment.
Mark fixed points with colored tape immediately during installation. When the installation is covered with drywall or tiling, you will know exactly where the fixed points are – important for future service interventions.
Never force the pipe into the strip. If it does not insert easily, the strip is either for a different diameter or is deformed. Replacing the strip on the job is cheaper than a leak at the joint behind the wall.

Reliable fastening for different types of media and pressures

Pipelines in the house are not only heating. They can also be for cold and hot water distribution, solar circuits, floor heating distribution, and even gas installation (although this is always done by a certified technician). Each of these systems has different requirements for fastening.

Heating (maximum medium temperature 80–90 °C, pressure up to 3 bar): highest requirements for expansion release, clamps must be made of material resistant to at least 100 °C (PA, PP or metal).

Cold water (max. 20 °C, pressure up to 6 bar): lower expansion, but higher working pressure – fastening must be more secure, because pulses from pumps cause vibrations.

Solar circuit (maximum medium temperature 120–180 °C in stagnation): only metal clamps, no plastic, thermal insulation is mandatory and clamps are mounted above the insulation. Classic PB clamps are absolutely unsuitable here.

Floor heating (max. 45–55 °C, low pressure): pipelines are usually in anhydrite or concrete screed or in a technical floor, where they are fixed with clips or tapes to the reinforcing mesh. This is a specific system where wall strips are not used.

Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)

How many clamps do I need for a 10-meter section of 16 mm PB pipe for heating?

For hot water (heating, 60–80 °C), the maximum spacing is 500 mm. For a 10-meter section, you therefore need at least 20 anchoring points (every 500 mm), which means 20 clamps or anchoring positions on the strip. In practice, I recommend going for 450 mm – that gives 23 points. Keep in mind that each bend and fitting requires additional fastening before and after the fitting, so the total number will be higher.

Can I use the same strip for 16 mm and 18 mm pipe?

Yes, if you use the right product. For example, pipe fastening strip for 16–18 mm is dimensioned for both diameters and in one strip you can combine both dimensions side by side. If you have a strip only for 16 mm, the 18 mm pipe will either not fit or will be loose and unstable.

Is it necessary to fasten the pipe in a suspended installation with a spacing of 30 cm?

No, every 30 cm would be too frequent and would add unnecessary weight to the structure. For PB 16 mm in a suspended ceiling (where the medium temperature is 60 °C), a spacing of 500 mm is sufficient, for copper 15 mm 1 000–1 200 mm. Each additional strip or clamp in the suspended ceiling takes up space and complicates access during service. Stick to the recommended values, not a higher number.

My clamp cracked – what should I do?

A cracked clamp is a signal, not an isolated problem. A clamp cracks due to: excessive expansion (the pipe has nowhere to expand and the force is directed into the clamp), incorrect clamp diameter for the pipe, aged material (>10–15 years), or installation at low temperatures. It is not enough to replace one clamp – check the entire section to see if other clamps are cracked or deformed, and verify that you have enough sliding points. A detailed procedure can be found in the article Loose or cracked clamps – causes and solutions.

What is the correct position of the clamp for vertical pipe routing (riser)?

For a riser, each clamp should be directly below a branch or fitting, or at a distance of up to 100 mm below it. The remaining clamps are placed according to the recommended spacing for the given material in vertical routing (about 20–30 % more than in horizontal routing). One of the clamps on each riser should be a fixed point (usually in the middle height of the riser), the rest sliding.

Can I use a through-wall bushing as a fixed point instead of a clamp?

Yes, in some cases. A through-wall bushing in a transitional position (e.g., a transition through a wall or drywall) can serve as a fixed point, as it fixes the pipe in the axial and radial direction. It is important that the substrate into which the bushing is anchored is sufficiently strong and that you do not permanently seal (without the possibility of disassembly) the bushing at a location where future pipe replacement may be needed. For copper installation, through-wall bushing for copper pipe 15×1 EK is specifically designed for this purpose.

Conclusion – pipe fastening is a foundation, not a detail

Proper installation of clamps and strips on pipes is one of those things where it pays off to do things right the first time. Repairing an improperly fastened installation hidden behind drywall or under plaster is several times more expensive and labor-intensive than proper installation from the start. Remember the key principles: correct spacing for the given material and temperature, a combination of fixed and sliding points, secure fastening into the correct substrate, and fastening at every critical point (fittings, bends, transitions). If you follow these rules and use properly dimensioned products, your installation will be quiet, secure, and trouble-free for many years.

For a deeper insight into selecting the right tools, also read the articles How to choose the right mounting tools for Hepworth pipes, Manual vs. mechanical fastening of pipes – differences and use, and for a detailed overview of all available products, visit the category mounting tools.

Do you have a question on this topic?

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