Installation of bathroom accessories - anchoring into tiles, drywall, and wall

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Installation of bathroom accessories – anchoring into tiles, drywall and wall

A properly mounted towel rack will last ten years without any attention. A poorly mounted one will fall to the floor at the first pull by a child – and along with it a piece of tile, for which you paid a lot of money. The installation of bathroom accessories may sound trivial, but in practice it is one of those tasks where the difference between a lasting solution and repeated frustration is decided. Over the years of customer practice I have seen all sorts of things: chisels drilled into the grout between tiles, silicone adhesive applied to a greasy surface, self-tapping screws driven directly into drywall without any anchor, as well as professional solutions that hold ten times more than expected.

This article will give you a complete overview of how to approach the installation of bathroom accessories on the three most common types of substrates: tiled walls on solid masonry, drywall walls and a classic plastered wall without tiling. For each case I will go through the appropriate tools, anchoring materials, the correct procedure and typical recurring mistakes. If you are interested in the topic of when it is better to reach for an adhesive solution instead of drilling, see the article Adhesive vs. screwed bathroom accessories – when to use which solution in our Knowledge Center.

Why the substrate in the bathroom is different from anywhere else in the house

The bathroom is a demanding environment from the builder's point of view. High humidity, temperature fluctuations, condensation of steam, direct contact with water during a shower or bath – all of this places increased demands on anchoring materials and the substrate itself. Ordinary plaster or lime-cement plaster without tiling has significantly lower tensile strength in a permanently humid bathroom than in a dry room. Mounting foams commonly used in dry construction fail in the bathroom due to humidity. Silicone adhesives are excellent sealants, but not anchoring materials for loaded accessories.

The load capacity you require from the accessory is also an important factor. A shelf for decorative items may need to carry half a kilogram. A shower basket with bottles and soap can carry up to 8–10 kg. A rod for a hanging shower curtain together with the curtain and wet towels can reach a load of 15 kg or more. If you are interested in the topic of load capacity in more detail, read the article What load capacity and dimensions do holders and hooks in the bathroom need in this Knowledge Center.

Fastening into tiles and claddings – the basics of proper drilling

Cladding tiles are a hard but brittle material. Porcelain tiles have a surface Mohs hardness of 7–8, which is more than standard HSS drill bits. Classic ceramic tiles are softer (Mohs 5–6), but are equally prone to cracking from bad pressure or thermal stress during drilling.

Suitable drills for tiles

Use only drills designed for tiles and glass. These are:

Spade-shaped diamond drills – the most universal type, suitable for ceramic and porcelain. Diameter 6–10 mm for standard anchors.
Tubular (hollow) diamond drills – suitable for large holes or when you want to minimize friction. For diameters over 10 mm.
Tungsten carbide spade-shaped drills – a cheaper alternative suitable for softer ceramic, not for porcelain.

Never use standard HSS metal drills or chiseling drills for concrete when drilling through tile. Pass through the tile without chiseling, and only turn it on when you are through the tile and entering the substrate (if the substrate is concrete or solid brick).

Step-by-step drilling process into tiles

Specific procedure in practice:

Mark the position of the hole precisely with a pencil or marker. Always measure twice – once from the floor, once from the corner of the wall. The ideal position of the holes is in the center of the tile, not in the grout.
Apply masking tape over the marked spot. The drill tends to slip on a smooth tile and the tape will keep it in place at the start of drilling.
Start drilling at slow speed (300–500 rpm), without chiseling, with slight pressure. Cool the drill bit – either with water (wet drilling) or with short breaks.
Once you have drilled through the tile and reached the adhesive or the substrate, switch on the chiseling function (if you are drilling into concrete or solid brick) and change the drill bit to a chiseling one.
The depth of the hole must correspond to the length of the anchor – usually 40–60 mm into the substrate (not into the tile). A tile with an adhesive layer may have a total thickness of 15–25 mm, which must be added to the anchor depth.
Clean the hole of dust (blow it out, vacuum it) and insert the anchor. Tighten the screw with sufficient, but not excessive, force.

Where to drill – and where not to

Ideally, drill into the center of the tile. The grout between tiles is a physically weaker spot – it has a smaller diameter and is filled with grout material, not a hard substrate. Anchors in grout have lower load capacity and when an expansion anchor hardens, it can crack the tile from the inside.

It is also important to know where the installation runs are located. Before drilling, check the location of electrical wiring and water pipes using a metal and live wire detector. This rule always applies, without exception.

Fixing into drywall – the most common mistake and the correct solution

Drywall is a common material in modern bathrooms – it is easy to work with, conduits can be routed through it, and sound-insulating partitions made from it are standard. However, drywall is more problematic than solid masonry for installing bathroom accessories, for two reasons:

The drywall sheet itself (thickness 12.5 mm or 15 mm) has low shear and tensile strength for anchored elements.
Behind the sheet there is an air cavity, so standard expansion anchors for masonry will not work in it.

The most common mistake people make is to screw self-tapping screws directly into the drywall, or to use plastic anchors designed for solid masonry. Result: the first time someone hangs towels, the entire bracket pulls away with a piece of the sheet.

Correct types of anchors for drywall

There are specialized anchoring elements for drywall that work on the principle of expanding behind the sheet. They are divided into several groups:

Molly anchors (hollow wall anchors) – a hollow screw with an expansion sleeve. After inserting into the hole, the rear part expands and "clamps" the sheet from behind. The load capacity of standard molly anchors M5 is 20–40 kg when the drywall sheet is properly mounted. Suitable for medium-load accessories (towel racks, shelves).
Wing anchors (flip-wings) – folding wings expand behind the sheet. Easier installation than molly anchors, but lower load capacity (typically 10–25 kg).
Chemical anchors for hollow walls – a two-component compound is injected into the hole through a perforated sleeve. After hardening, it creates a solid base directly in the cavity. Load capacity can reach up to 60–80 kg. The best option for heavy accessories (spray shower rods, robust shelves).
Fixing into metal profiles – ideal case: the hole is directly above the load-bearing profile of the structure. A metal profile has significantly higher load capacity than the sheet itself. Profiles are usually spaced 60 cm apart, but this may vary depending on the project.

Practical tip: how to find load-bearing profiles

Before drilling into drywall, always verify where the metal profiles are. The simplest method is to use a magnetic detector (inexpensive, readily available). You can also detect the profiles by gently tapping – where it is solid, it will sound more muted. During renovations, where you have access to the project documentation or construction log, you can measure the profiles directly from the project.

If the profile is not where you need the anchor, you have two options: either use a chemical anchor into the cavity, or (when planning in advance) insert a wooden block as an additional load-bearing element into the drywall structure before closing the sheet. This is a standard practice when designing new bathrooms – in advance, leave a wooden or metal reinforcement embedded in the wall where you expect towel racks, shower rods, and other loaded points.

Mounting on a plastered wall without tiling

In older bathrooms or in those parts of the bathroom where there are no tiles (e.g. behind the WC, in the wardrobe area), we often encounter classic plastered masonry. Here, mounting is the easiest – but even here you must follow the basic rules.

Choosing the right anchor according to the substrate

Not all masonry is the same. The key difference is between:

Full brick or concrete – this is so-called massive substrates with high strength. Here, the use of standard nylon expansion anchors (e.g. SX or UX type, diameter 6–8 mm, length 30–50 mm) is appropriate. Drill with a masonry drill, HM (tungsten carbide) tip, medium speed, hammer function on.
Hollow brick (CD block, porotherm, etc.) – the load is transferred only through the walls of the hollows, not through the entire cross-section of the brick. Here, standard expansion anchors are not sufficient – they expand into the hollow. The solution is anchors for hollow bricks (so-called multi-use anchors, large-diameter plastic anchors) or again chemical anchors with a perforated sleeve insert.
Lightweight concrete (ytong, etc.) – a very soft, porous material. For this, there are special large-profile anchors for lightweight concrete (e.g. type SXRL or GK). A chemical anchor works very well here.

Embedment depth and diameter

Basic recommendation for standard bathroom accessories (load capacity up to 30 kg):

Anchor diameter: 6 mm for light accessories, 8 mm for medium, 10 mm for heavy ones (rods, folding hooks)
Embedment depth into solid substrate: at least 35–40 mm, ideally 50–60 mm
Screw: galvanized or stainless steel (in the bathroom there is humidity, a standard steel screw will rust)

Regarding the material of the screw in the bathroom – always choose stainless steel or at least galvanized screws. I have seen dozens of cases where the bathroom owner noticed brown streaks running down from the screw along the tile after five years. These are rust stains coming from a corrosive screw through a microcrack in the seal. We will deal with the topic of surface treatments in more detail in the article Stainless steel vs. chrome vs. matte accessories – comparison of durability and maintenance.

Where exactly to place bathroom accessories – height recommendations

Before drilling, it is crucial to know exactly where to place the anchor. The correct height is not only a matter of aesthetics, but also of ergonomics and functionality. From practice, the following recommended heights have become established for a standard height of 170–180 cm:

Paper towel hook: 65–70 cm from the floor (at the same height as the WC seat, i.e. about 40 cm from the seat)
Single towel rod: 110–120 cm from the floor
Robe hooks: 155–170 cm from the floor (within reach of a stretched arm)
Shelves above the sink: 30–40 cm above the edge of the sink, i.e. about 90–100 cm from the floor
Mirror: the center of the mirror at eye level = about 155–165 cm from the floor
Shower caddy (corner type): 80–100 cm from the floor of the shower tray or bathtub (within reach of the hand when standing)

For families with children, it is good to install at least one row of hooks at a height of 90–100 cm, which are accessible even for small children without the need to climb.

Sealing and finishing after installation

After screwing in the accessory and checking it (pull it, try the load), the last step remains: sealing the hole and the contact area of the accessory with the tile or wall. This is where amateurs save money and where mold or damage to the substrate appears later.

Always apply a thin layer of neutral sanitary silicone (not acidic, which corrodes metals) between the base of the accessory and the tile. The silicone will prevent water from entering the hole behind the accessory. Excess silicone can be elegantly pushed out with a wet finger or a rubber spatula. Let it dry according to the manufacturer's instructions (usually 24 hours) before loading.

If you have drilled into a tile and the edge of the hole is a bit chipped (which often happens with cheaper drills), fix it with colorless acrylic adhesive or white sanitary silicone before fitting the base of the accessory. This will hide any irregularities.

Mounting glued accessories – when is it a legitimate solution

Not all bathroom accessories need to be necessarily screwed. Modern adhesives and self-adhesive pads have advanced so much that for lightly loaded accessories they are a full alternative. This is true only when the right adhesive is chosen and the right substrate is used.

Self-adhesive accessories are suitable for:

Small hooks (load up to 1–2 kg)
Decorative shelves with minimal load
Soap dishes and small baskets in the shower (load up to 3–5 kg with quality adhesive)
Accessories in rented apartments, where you don't want to drill

For glued solutions, use only products intended for use in a wet environment – either special double-sided mounting tapes resistant to water, or accessories with their own self-adhesive pads certified for wet areas. The substrate must be clean, degreased (isopropyl alcohol), dry and smooth. Let the adhesive activate for at least 24–48 hours before loading the accessory. More on this topic can be found in the article Glued vs. screwed bathroom accessories – when to use which solution.

Common installation mistakes – from practice

Over the years of working with bathrooms, I have come across several mistakes that repeat across different projects and different types of customers. Collected here for you:

Drilling without a cable detector – the most common and most dangerous mistake. Electrical cables run directly behind the tiling, especially near showers and sinks. A detector costs a few euros and can prevent electric shocks.
Hammer function on when drilling through tile – the hammer function is intended for concrete and brick. On tile, it causes vibrations that crack the tile. Turn it off until you have drilled through the tile.
Too short anchor – the embedment depth is insufficient, the screw bends under lateral load and the anchor loosens. Always measure the thickness of the tile + adhesive + plaster and add at least 35–40 mm embedment into the solid substrate.
Screwing dry without silicone – the hole behind the screw remains open, water enters, the substrate gets wet, the anchor loosens and after a few months the entire accessory falls out.
Not maintaining the same height for paired anchors – a towel rod, a shower rod or a long shelf require both anchoring points to be exactly in the horizontal axis. Use a spirit level, not just your eye. An error of 5 mm is visible to the naked eye on a 60 cm long rod.
Using a standard anchor in a hollow brick – the expanded anchor in the hollow has nothing to push against, the load capacity is close to zero. Result: the entire anchor falls out with a piece of the wall at the first load.

Learn more about what to do when problems have already occurred in the article Common faults of bathroom accessories – loose screws, corrosion, cracked brackets.

Special situations – glass walls, XL tiles, travertine

Modern bathrooms also bring unusual substrates. Large-format tiles (e.g. 120×60 cm or even 120×120 cm) behave differently than classic 20×20 cm tiles. The thickness of the larger format is usually greater (10–12 mm compared to 7–8 mm), but a larger format also means a higher risk of cracking when drilling at the edge. Always drill at least 10 cm from the edge of the tile, ideally in the center.

Travertine and natural stone are more fragile materials with an uneven structure. Drill more slowly, using water cooling and a diamond drill bit. Some types of natural stone have internal micro-cracks that can expand during drilling – visually check throughout the entire process.

Glass walls (common in premium shower enclosures) are practically not drilled on site without special equipment. If you need an accessory for a glass wall, look for products specifically designed for glass walls, either with an adhesive solution or with a clamping attachment that grips the edge of the glass.

Inspection after installation and load test

After completing the installation, you should test each accessory before it is fully loaded. The procedure is simple:

Gently press on the accessory in all directions (up, down, sideways, away from the wall, toward the wall). Check that it does not move.
Gradually increase the load – first to 50 % of the estimated maximum load, let it act for 30 seconds, and check. Then to 100 % and check again.
Check the silicone seal – it must not be interrupted anywhere.
After 24 hours (when the silicone has hardened), check the tightness of the screws again. Thermal expansion of materials and drying of the silicone can slightly loosen the joint.

If you notice any movement during the load test, unscrew the accessory, clean the holes, and use a stronger anchor (larger diameter, longer plugs, chemical anchor). It is better to spend an hour fixing it now than to spend months dealing with a cracked tile later.

Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Can I drill into tiles with a regular hammer drill?

You can use a hammer drill (with the hammer function turned off) for drilling into tiles, but an ideal choice is a standard rotary drill with adjustable speed. The key is to always turn off the hammer function when passing through the tile. Turn it on only when the drill bit reaches the load-bearing substrate (concrete, brick). A rotary drill without a hammer function is gentler and sufficient for tiles.

What should I do if the tile cracks during drilling?

If the crack is only cosmetic (a micro-crack on the surface without loss of cohesion), you can continue with the installation, cover the crack with the base of the accessory, and seal it with silicone. If the tile is cracked through the entire profile and there is a risk of it falling out, it needs to be replaced – delay the installation of the accessory until the new tile is set and the grout has dried (at least 48–72 hours). The most common causes of cracking are the hammer function left on, a poor drill bit, or drilling too close to the edge of the tile.

What is the load capacity of a molly anchor in drywall and can I hang a heavy towel heater on it?

A standard molly anchor M5 in 12.5 mm drywall has a load capacity of around 20–40 kg, which is sufficient for a standard bathroom accessory. An electric or water towel heater, however, is a different category – it can have its own weight of 5–10 kg and additional load from towels. In addition, it is firmly attached and requires electrical or water connection. For such devices, we recommend anchoring into a load-bearing profile or using chemical anchors into the cavity, or a combination of anchors. Never rely on a single molly anchor for devices with a weight exceeding 5 kg.

Do I need to seal with silicone even for glued accessories without drilling?

For glued accessories without drilled holes, silicone sealing is not necessary – the accessory itself forms a closed surface on the substrate. However, there is a thin grout line along the edge of the adhesive base (where the accessory meets the tile), where water can run under the base. To prevent moisture accumulation and mold growth, it is reasonable to apply a thin line of sanitary silicone there as well. This is done only after the mounting adhesive has fully hardened.

Can I anchor into the grout lines between tiles instead of the center of the tile?

Technically, this is possible only with a very narrow grout line (1–2 mm) filled with hard epoxy grout. Standard cement-based grout has significantly lower strength than the tile itself. In addition, expansion of the plug in a narrow grout line can cause adjacent tiles to crack from lateral pressure. Always anchor into the center of the tile, not into the grout. If the room geometry leaves you no choice, use a chemical anchor (which does not exert expansion pressure) or consider this limitation when choosing the position of the accessory before installation.

How many anchors does a standard towel rod bracket (width 60 cm) need?

A standard two-point towel rod bracket has two anchors – one at each end of the rod. For normal use (load up to 15 kg), two M6 anchors in solid masonry are fully sufficient. In drywall or hollow masonry, consider anchoring through load-bearing profiles, or use M6 molly anchors and limit the load to 10–12 kg. If you plan to hang bathrobes and larger towels on the rod (load over 20 kg), choose M8 anchors or chemical anchors.

Conclusion – installation that lasts

Proper installation of bathroom accessories is not a science, but it does require attention to detail and an understanding of the substrate we are working with. The three most common substrates – tiles, drywall, and plastered masonry – each have their own rules, and for each there are proven solutions. An investment in a good drill bit, quality anchors, and sanitary silicone pays off many times over, as the accessories will perform their function without problems for the entire lifetime of the bathroom.

If you are interested in how to choose bathroom accessories correctly even before installation, read the article How to choose bathroom accessories – material, style, and practicality, or How to complete a bathroom in one style – accessory sets and their combinations. And if you want to keep your accessories in good condition for as long as possible after installation, we recommend the article Cleaning and maintenance of bathroom accessories – how to extend the life of surface treatments.

The complete range of bathroom accessories can be found in our online store, where you can choose by style, material, and load capacity.

Do you have a question about this topic?

Not sure or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.