Installation of CLAGE Tap Cartridge – Step-by-Step Guide

We are still preparing products.

But you can look at other categories.

Installation of CLAGE faucet – step by step

Replacing a faucet is one of those home repairs that many people unnecessarily delay and rather pay a plumber for something they could do themselves in one afternoon. If you have the right tools, a bit of patience, and are willing to read through this guide to the end, you will be able to install the CLAGE faucet CLAGE without major problems. Based on many orders where we dealt with installations in panel bathrooms and new buildings, I know exactly where the most common mistakes are made – and how to avoid them.

This article will take you through the entire process from preparation to the first water flow. We will cover types of installations (single-hole sink faucet, shower faucet with spacing, wall-mounted and stand-mounted faucets), show you what to check before starting the work, and describe each step of the installation in detail, including sealing, tightening, and adjustment. If you are interested in choosing the right faucet before you start the installation, I recommend reading the article How to choose CLAGE faucets – what to pay attention to, or Connection spacing and faucet dimensions – how to measure and choose the right size, where you will find practical information on measuring and parameters.

What you need before the actual installation – list of tools and materials

Before you turn off the water, prepare everything you need. Nothing is worse than being stuck in the middle of the job without the right wrench or sealing, with the water turned off and having to go to the store. From experience, I recommend the following equipment:

Adjustable wrench (so-called "Swedish") – a basic tool for plumbers, size 250–300 mm will cover most situations
Flat screwdriver – for securing screws on covers and various clamps
Phillips screwdriver (crosshead) – for some types of faucets for temperature setting or handle installation
Hex keys (Allen keys) – set 2–6 mm; many CLAGE faucets have hex fixing screws under the covers
PTFE sealing tape (Teflon tape) – indispensable for threaded connections, use 12 mm wide tape
Sanitary silicone – transparent or white, for sealing the base of the faucet against ceramic/porcelain
Rubber gasket – usually part of the faucet package, but double-check the contents of the box
Catch basin or rags – when disconnecting the old faucet, residual water will run out of the old hoses
Headlamp or flashlight – it is dark under the sink, you will appreciate it when working in a cabinet
Plumber's wrench for faucets (so-called corner wrench) – a special tool for working in the confined space under the sink; if you don't have one, you can manage with an adjustable wrench, but it will take longer
Drill with masonry bits – only if you are installing a wall-mounted faucet and need new holes
Water level – for proper alignment of wall-mounted or stand-mounted faucets

As for the materials: check the contents of the faucet package right after unpacking. Most CLAGE faucets include gaskets, a mounting nut (Gegenmutter), and flexible hoses for connection. If flexible hoses are not part of the package, buy hoses with an internal diameter of G 3/8" or G 1/2" according to the type of your faucet – usually G 3/8" for sink faucets, G 1/2" for shower and bathtub faucets.

Disconnecting the water and removing the old faucet

The first and absolutely indispensable step: turn off the water supply. Never start disassembly without certainty that the corner valves under the sink (or the main water shut-off in the absence of corner valves) are closed. This is also the first point where customers make mistakes – they assume the corner valve is closed, but it is not, because it is clogged or worn. Always verify: open the faucet to confirm whether water is flowing or not.

The procedure for removing the old faucet depends on its type. For a stand-mounted sink faucet (mounted through a hole in the sink):

Close the corner valves – right (hot) and left (cold). Turn clockwise by 90° (quarter turn) or fully tighten for older types.
Open the faucet to equalize pressure and drain residual water.
Place a catch basin under the hoses.
Unscrew the flexible hoses from the corner valves (using a 22 mm wrench or adjustable wrench).
From the top part (through the hole in the sink), unscrew the securing nut that holds the faucet in the hole. If it is hard to reach, use a corner wrench for faucets.
Pull the faucet with the hoses upward through the hole.

For a wall-mounted faucet, the procedure is different: close the corner valves or the main shut-off, unscrew the covers (outlets) from the wall, unscrew the body of the faucet from the threaded nipples built into the wall. Be careful here – do not turn the nipple together with the faucet, as you could damage the sealing in the wall. Hold the nipple with a second wrench.

After removing the old faucet, thoroughly clean the mounting holes in the sink or the threaded nipple in the wall. Old silicone, limescale, and corrosion can complicate the installation of the new faucet. Use a scraper or sandpaper (P120), clean the wall/sink and let it dry.

Basin Faucet Connection Diagram – Component Order

Preparing the new CLAGE faucet before installation

Before the actual installation, carefully inspect the new faucet. Unpack it carefully, do not cut off the caps and finishing elements to the side – put everything aside on a clean place. Check the contents of the package according to the attached installation instructions (each CLAGE faucet is delivered with an instruction manual). Verify that all seals, nuts, and possibly flexible hoses are included.

Essential step that many skip: Do not apply the sealing directly to the metal on the faucet connections (external thread G 3/8" or G 1/2"). The sealing must go to the correct place – either into the nut of the flexible hose or into the seat of the corner valve. It depends on the construction of the specific connection. If you use sealing and PTFE tape at the same time, it can lead to thread overload or twisting of the sealing. General rule: thread connections (metal to metal) are sealed with PTFE tape, connections with rubber sealing do not require PTFE.

If the faucet has an external thread on the connections (for direct screwing into the wall nipples), wind the PTFE tape in the direction of the thread (clockwise, when looking at the thread from the front). Wind 8–12 layers evenly, without air bubbles, without overhanging. Insufficient sealing = dripping; too much tape = difficult insertion and cracking of the sealing.

Installation of a wall-mounted basin faucet – step by step

This type is by far the most common – the faucet is mounted from above through one hole in the sink (hole diameter usually 32–35 mm). Procedure:

Step 1: Preparing the hole and rubber sealing washer

First, insert the rubber washer (sealing between the bottom of the faucet and the edge of the sink) into the hole in the sink. This washer prevents water from getting under the faucet on the ceramic and also dampens vibrations. If the washer is not part of the package or is damaged, you can instead apply a thin layer of sanitary silicone to the bottom of the faucet body. Apply silicone only in a continuous ring, not over the entire surface, so that you can later remove the faucet.

Step 2: Inserting the rod and hoses through the hole

Pass the flexible hoses and mounting rod (or tightened supplies) from top to bottom through the hole in the sink. The faucet will sit on the sink. Pay attention to the correct orientation – the hose for hot water (red mark or marking "H") must point to the right when viewed from the front, the hose for cold water (blue, "C") to the left. This is important not only functionally, but also for safety reasons (to prevent reverse connection, which could damage the thermostatic mechanisms).

Step 3: Mounting the washer and locking nut from below

You will get under the sink (best to lie on your back with a flashlight) and mount the plastic or metal washer on the rod/supplies, then screw on the locking nut. Screw the nut by hand until it sits, then tighten with a wrench. Note: excessive tightening can crack the ceramic of the sink! Use appropriate force – the nut should be tightly tightened (so that the faucet does not move), but not "to the maximum".

Check: press the faucet from the side and upwards – if it does not move, it is correct. If the faucet turns or tilts, the locking nut is not tightened, the washer is not properly seated, or the hole in the sink is non-standard (some older sinks have holes of different diameters – in this case, a reducing washer will help).

Step 4: Connecting the flexible hoses to the corner valves

Now connect the flexible hoses to the corner valves. Each flexible hose has a nut with a sealing (for corner valve G 3/8" or G 1/2") on one end and a nut with a sealing for the faucet preparation on the other end. Before screwing, check if there is a sealing (rubber ring) in the nut – without it, the connection will be leaky.

Arrange the hoses so that they do not form sharp bends or twists. Flexible hoses tolerate bends, but not breaks – at too short a bend radius, the inner braiding will break and the hose will start to drip or burst (which can lead to a serious flood accident). The minimum bend radius for standard stainless steel braided hoses is 50–70 mm.

Screw the nuts by hand, then tighten with a wrench by 1–1.5 turns more. Do not over-tighten – the sealing is rubber and excessive force deforms it. After tightening, check whether the hose does not hit the cabinet door under the sink or hit the drain.

Step 5: First water start and leak check

This is the moment of truth. Slowly open the corner valves (first cold, then hot) – never open fully abruptly, always slowly and controlled. Monitor all connections for leaks. If it drips:

At the flexible hose nut on the corner valve – tighten with a wrench, or replace the sealing
At the flexible hose nut on the faucet – same procedure
Under the rubber washer of the faucet – water is getting around the body of the faucet; tighten the locking nut or add sanitary silicone

After verifying the tightness, let the faucet run for a while at full capacity, check the flow and operation of the lever/buttons. If you have also connected a shower set (hose + handle), check the water deflection as well.

Wall radiator installation – special steps and differences

A wall radiator (also known as a wall-mounted radiator) is connected to threaded pipes built directly into the wall. This is a more complex installation because it requires the pipes to be embedded in the correct position and spacing during the rough construction or bathroom renovation. The standard spacing of the pipes for a wall radiator is 150 mm center to center (also known as center-center), and the depth of embedding depends on the thickness of the tiling – usually the pipes protrude 15–20 mm from the finished surface of the tiling.

More detailed information on spacing and dimensions can be found in the article Connection spacing and radiator dimensions – how to measure and choose the correct size.

Wall radiator installation process:

Check the pipes – the thread must be G 1/2" external (common in European installations). The thread must not be damaged or clogged with lime or sealant. Clean it with a wire brush.
Wrap PTFE tape around the external thread of the pipes – 10–14 layers in the direction of the thread. The tape must cover the entire thread evenly.
Screw on the radiator body onto the pipes. Turn the radiator body by hand – as soon as you feel resistance, switch to a wrench. Tighten until the radiator is in the correct position (the outlet points directly downward or in the desired direction). Important: after tightening, the radiator must not return to its original position – if it does, you need to add more PTFE tape or tighten it more firmly.
Mount the face plates (decorative covers) and bring them flush with the wall. The face plates must fit tightly against the tiling – if there is a gap, use transparent silicone.
Connect the outlet and control elements according to the instructions for the specific model.

Practical tip: in older installations, it is often the case that the pipes are at different depths or not at the same height. In such cases, the solution is to use extended pipes (reducers) or eccentric couplings (adjustable connectors that can compensate for spacing differences of ±5–15 mm). Eccentric couplings are now standard in the packaging of many wall radiators precisely to compensate for the imprecision of the embedded pipes.

Special situations and common installation problems from practice

Old corner valve that cannot be fully closed

This happens very often in older panel buildings. You turn the corner valve, but water still drips slightly. In such a case, you must close the main shut-off valve of the apartment or riser. Never start dismantling the radiator while water is still flowing – even a slight drip from the corner valve can cause dozens of liters of water to leak onto the floor during an hour of work. After replacing the radiator, I recommend replacing the clogged corner valves as well – it will save you stress during future repairs.

The hole in the sink is too large or too small

Older sinks had holes with a diameter of 28 mm, while newer standards refer to 35 mm. CLAGE taps are mostly for a hole of 32–35 mm. If the hole is larger, you usually manage with a larger rubber gasket or a decorative cover (so-called rosette for the sink). If the hole is too small, you won't do without expansion – drilling into a ceramic plate is risky and requires a diamond drill bit and slow rotation.

Reverse orientation of connections (T and C are swapped)

From practice: a customer buys a new tap, installs it, but hot water flows from the "cold" side of the lever. Cause? Angle valves or supplies are connected in reverse. Solution: swap the hoses (hot on the right – red, cold on the left – blue). If the supplies are permanently connected in the wall in the opposite order, you can use a tap without thermal logic (without color differentiation) or have the wall junction reconnected by a plumber. For thermostatic taps, the correct orientation of T and C is critical – the thermostat must "feel" the temperature correctly, otherwise it works inaccurately.

The tap drips after tightening – where to look for the problem

Dripping after installation can have several sources. Look systematically:

Flexible hose / angle valve connection – insufficient sealing or missing rubber gasket in the nut
Flexible hose / tap connection – same reason
Threaded connection on the wall-mounted tap – too little PTFE tape or worn nipple
From the tap outlet when the lever is closed – worn cartridge or dirt in it (this should not happen with a new tap, but it can with a used one)

More detailed information on diagnosing dripping can be found in the article Common CLAGE tap faults – dripping, weak flow and their solutions.

Setting temperature and pressure after installation

After successful installation and verifying the tightness, focus on setting the tap. Most single-lever CLAGE taps have an adjustable temperature stop – a safety mechanism that limits the rotation of the lever to the "full hot water" position. It is set by default so that you must overcome a noticeable resistance (click) with the lever to reach the maximum temperature. This protects especially children from burns.

Setting the temperature stop (if you want to change it):

Remove the lever cap (usually an internal hex screw 2–3 mm or a Phillips screwdriver)
Under the cap, you will find a plastic limiter with a cutout – by rotating this part (in steps of 15–30°), you set the maximum temperature
Put the cap back on

As for pressure: if you feel that the flow from the new tap is weaker than it should be, check the pressure at the connection. The standard operating pressure is 0.1–0.6 MPa (1–6 bar). Most CLAGE taps are designed for optimal pressure of 2–4 bar. At low pressures (apartment buildings with insufficient pressure on upper floors), the flow may be insufficient. More about parameters can be found in the article Water flow and pressure – what CLAGE tap parameters you need.

If the flow after installation is weaker than before the replacement, check the aerator at the tap outlet – during installation, it may have been clogged with dirt from the pipes (deposits, remnants of PTFE tape). Unscrew the aerator (by hand or with a flat screwdriver through a cloth), rinse it under running water, and screw it back in.

Mounting a tap on a bathtub or shower tray – differences

Bathtub taps are mostly the same principle as sink taps, but have an additional output – a switch between the flow into the bathtub and the shower head. This three-way function is solved either by a lever on the body of the tap or by a pull-out diverter. The same rules apply to installation, but also:

Bathtub taps are heavier – the securing nut must be tightened more firmly, the gasket under the tap has a larger contact area
The shower hose is connected to the side outlet G 1/2" – don't forget the sealing
The shower rod (holder) is mounted on the wall separately – independently of the tap, usually with wall anchors and screws
Length of the shower hose: standard is 150 cm, for more comfortable use we recommend 175 cm

For built-in shower taps in the wall (under-plaster systems), the installation is significantly more complex and usually requires professional installation. These systems have the body built into the wall during construction / renovation and only the control panel (lever, thermostat) are visible. If you are dealing with such a situation, I recommend contacting a professional plumber.

Final check and handover to operation

After installation, perform a final check of the entire system:

Visual check of all connections – a dry hand towel / paper towel placed on each connection will reveal even minimal dripping
Functional check – open and close the tap several times, test the full range of the lever, the shower / bathtub switch (if present), temperature setting
Check the aerator after 10 minutes of operation – dirt from new pipes is caught here
Check the angle valves – make sure they are fully open and well sealed under the nut
Silicone (if used) – let it dry for at least 24 hours before the first intensive use; before that, only careful use without spraying water on the connection between the tap and the sink

If you used silicone under the tap (instead of a rubber gasket) during installation, we recommend letting the bathroom be at least 6 hours at a warm temperature – silicone hardens better at higher temperatures.

We also recommend reading the article Cleaning and maintenance of CLAGE taps – how to extend the lifespan and remove limescale, where you will find practical tips on how to properly care for your new tap and what to do if it starts dripping after years of operation.

Common questions (FAQ)

Do I have to use PTFE tape on all threads during installation?

No on all. Use PTFE tape on metal threaded connections where there is no rubber sealing – typically on wall tap nipples or on fixed threaded connections. On connections where there is a rubber gasket (sealing) in the nut, it is sufficient to properly seat and tighten the rubber – additional PTFE tape could cause deformation of the rubber seal or make unscrewing in the future more difficult.

How tightly should I tighten the securing nut under the sink?

Tighten to a firm resistance with a wrench, then add at most half a turn. Ceramic sink is brittle and can crack under excessive force. Practical test: press on the body of the tap with normal hand force – it must not move, rotate or tilt. If it moves, tighten it. If you are at the limit of force and the tap still slightly loosens – check whether the problem is in the incorrectly seated gasket or in the unsuitable shape of the securing nut for the given type of sink.

What to do if cold water flows from the tap after installation despite the "hot" position?

This indicates either: (a) the hoses are connected in reverse – hot goes to the cold side and cold to the hot side, or (b) the water heating in your apartment has not yet been turned on / the boiler is cold / the thermostat is set too low. First check whether hot water really flows from the right angle valve (open another outlet with clear H/C marking). If yes, reconsider the hose connection in the tap.

Can I install the tap myself, or do I need a plumber?

A stand-mounted sink tap is a common DIY repair – there is no need for a plumber's license or any notification to the water supplier. Wall-mounted taps with built-in nipples into the wall, under-plaster thermostatic systems, and any work on the main water supply in the apartment core or riser should be entrusted to a professional. Also, in any case of doubt about the condition of the pipes or angle valves, better call a plumber – leaks from incorrect installation cause damages in the thousands of euros on your own and your neighbor's property.

What if I feel during installation that the thread is not going smoothly – should I push?

Never. If the thread is difficult or "stuck", stop and identify the cause. Most common reasons: dirty thread (clean with a brush), the thread surface is damaged (cracks, ovalization – the thread must be replaced or repaired with a tap), too much PTFE tape (wind a thinner layer), or simply the wrong thread size (check whether you are screwing G 1/2" into G 1/2", not G 3/8" into G 1/2"). Forcing a damaged thread will definitely destroy it and the repair will be much more expensive.

How long does replacing a faucet take with experienced work?

An experienced plumber can replace a wall-mounted basin faucet in 20–30 minutes, including cleaning and inspection. A beginner following this guide and using good tools should expect to spend 45–90 minutes on their first attempt. A wall-mounted faucet can take longer when replaced directly – 60–120 minutes, depending on the condition of the nuts and accessibility.

Conclusion – practical summary

Installing a CLAGE faucet is not rocket science, but it does require a systematic approach, the right tools, and respect for a few key rules: always turn off the water before starting, use the correct sealing in the correct place, do not over-tighten the threads, and check each connection before turning the water back on. If you follow this guide, you have a high chance of a problem-free installation on your first try.

If you are deciding on a faucet before installation, I recommend reading the article Single-lever vs. double-lever faucet – which type is better for your space or CLAGE faucets vs. other brands – how they differ and whether it's worth paying more. And if you want to ensure the long lifespan of your new faucet after installation, you will surely appreciate the tips in the article Eco-friendly and water-saving CLAGE faucets – how to reduce water consumption in the bathroom.

The entire range of faucets is clearly listed in the category CLAGE faucets, where you can choose the right type for your specific situation.

Do you have a question about this topic?

Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.