Step-by-step installation of Balletto faucet

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Installation of the Balletto faucet step by step

Replacing or installing a new faucet is one of those household tasks that even a layperson can manage with a bit of skill – but only if they know exactly what they're doing and why. I've seen dozens of cases where a customer bought a quality Balletto faucet, selected it correctly in terms of type and parameters, and then installed it in such a way that after a week it was dripping, leaking from the wall, or the thermostat wasn't working. Not because they were clumsy – but because the installation process is not intuitive and the details are worth knowing in advance.

This article will guide you through the entire installation process from the first inspection of the old plumbing to the first flow of water. We will focus on wall-mounted faucets for sinks, bathtubs, and also on combined shower sets – because each type has its own specifics. At the same time, I will point out typical errors that repeat in practice and show you how to avoid them.

What you will need – tools and materials

Before you start, prepare everything at the location. Nothing is worse than turning off the water, disassembling the old faucet, and realizing that you are missing a piece of Teflon tape or an unsuitable nut. The basic equipment for installing a faucet includes:

Adjustable wrench (30–40 mm) – for tightening connection nuts
Flat and Phillips screwdriver – for disassembling covers and mounting screws
Torque wrench (optional, but recommended) – for sink faucets, to avoid cracking the ceramic
Water level – small, at least 20 cm, for axial alignment
Special faucet key (so-called hook key or bar key with a cross end) – for tightening the mounting nut under the sink
Teflon tape (PTFE tape) 12–19 mm wide – for threaded connections
Thread sealant or hemp fiber (or a combination) – for larger threads 3/4" and 1"
New rubber seals / O-rings – usually included in the packaging with the faucet, but double-check
Flexible connections (hoses) – 3/8" or 1/2", length according to the distance of the valves from the faucet, usually 30–60 cm
Bucket and cloth – there will always be some water in the pipes
Headlamp or light – it is dark under the sink

With Balletto faucets, flexible connecting hoses and seals are usually included with most models. Nevertheless, before installation, check their length – if the distance between the water outlets and the faucet is non-standard (for example, in older pipe systems embedded in the wall differently than the norm prescribes), you will need a different size. The standard axial distance between hot and cold water outlets for sink faucets is 150 mm, for bathtub combinations 152 mm (European standard EN 200).

Water shut-off and work area preparation

The first step is always the same: turn off the water. Sounds trivial, but in practice, the first problem arises here. Older residential buildings have valves that are so clogged with limescale that you can't turn them by hand. Never use pliers to force them – you might break the valve body, which is an expensive repair. Instead, apply WD-40 or a special rust remover, let it sit for 10–20 minutes, and then try again.

If you don't have a shut-off valve directly under the sink or bathtub, turn off the entire apartment at the main valve (usually in the utility room on the floor corridor or in the basement). After turning off the water, open the faucet – let the remaining water drain out and at the same time relieve the pressure in the pipes.

Light up the work area under the sink thoroughly. The space under the sink is tight, the access holes to the connection nuts are behind the trap and you can't see them. Keep a cloth and bucket within reach – some water will always leak from old hoses and the body of the faucet itself.

Demounting the old faucet

If you are replacing an existing faucet (which is the most common case), the disassembly process follows the reverse order of installation. Start by removing the flexible connecting hoses. Grip the nut on the hose with a wrench and turn to the left (clockwise from above). Caution: use the second wrench to hold the counter-nut on the wall outlet or on the lower thread of the faucet – without holding, you might unscrew the entire connection along with a piece of the wall.

After removing the hoses, loosen the mounting nut that attaches the faucet to the sink. This is where the special key mentioned earlier comes into play – it is a plastic or metal rod with a cross profile or a hook end, which is inserted through the narrow hole in the box under the sink. The nut is usually plastic (for cheaper faucets) or metal. If it is rusted, use WD-40 again.

Once the nut is loose, lift the faucet up. Under it, you will find a rubber or plastic gasket (washer), which seals the transition of the faucet through the hole in the sink. This washer is usually discarded and replaced with a new one that is included with the new faucet. Wipe the hole in the sink and the surrounding area thoroughly – old limescale and rust can prevent the new faucet from seating properly and later cause leakage around the base.

Preparation of threads and seals before installation

This is a step that many skip and later regret. Always check the condition of the threads on the wall outlets before installation. If the threads are damaged, corroded, or mechanically damaged, the new faucet will leak regardless of the seal you use. In such a case, call a plumber – thread repair is a professional job.

Apply Teflon tape or paste correctly to the threads:

Wrap Teflon tape in the direction of the thread (so that it is pulled in when tightening the nut, not unwound). For standard connection threads 3/8" and 1/2", 3–4 layers of tape are sufficient.
For larger threads (3/4" for shower and bathtub combinations, 1" for corner valves and some under-sink bodies), it is better to use hemp fiber with paste or a combination of tape and thread sealant.
Always start winding from the first thread and keep the tape taut – loosely wound tape will compress unevenly during tightening and will leak.

Rubber seals (O-rings), which are part of the Balletto tap set, insert into the corresponding grooves before installing the hoses. Never use old, hardened or deformed seals – under water pressure in the network (usually 2.5–6 bar), such a seal will certainly start to leak. If you lose any seal from the set, you can buy a new O-ring of the appropriate size in any plumbing store for a few cents.

Installation procedure for a wall-mounted tap on a sink

Wall-mounted taps (also called "overbench", because they stand on the sink through a hole in the ceramic) are by far the most common type. The installation procedure is as follows:

Step 1 – Tap preparation: Remove the tap from the packaging and check that you have all the parts: the body of the tap, the washer (a gasket under the foot), the fixing nut (usually a large plastic nut or a metal wing nut), possibly a fixing rod and a nut for thinner holes. Check that the connections at the bottom of the tap are clean and undamaged.

Step 2 – Installing the tap into the hole: Put the rubber washer (sealing gasket) on the bottom of the tap. Insert the tap into the hole in the sink. The hole is standard 35 mm or 52 mm – Balletto taps are mostly designed for a 35 mm hole, which is today's European standard. If the hole is not in the center, align the tap according to the axis of the outlet (it must point directly to the center of the sink or basin).

Step 3 – Tightening the fixing nut: From the underside of the sink, slide on the fixing washer and the nut. Tighten the nut with a special hook wrench. Be careful – do not over-tighten! With a ceramic sink, cracking can be caused by tightening with too high a torque. The nut should be tight (the tap must not rotate or wobble), but not brutally tightened. If the nut is plastic with wings, tighten it first by hand, then gently finish with a wrench (1/4 turn extra).

Step 4 – Connecting the flexible hoses: Flexible connecting hoses (braided hoses) are terminated with a nut on one end for the tap thread and on the other end for the angle valve/faucet on the wall. The standard thread diameter on Balletto taps is 3/8" (external thread G 3/8") on the connecting side. First screw the hoses by hand, then tighten with a spanner – 1/4 turn after tightening by hand is sufficient. Do not use Teflon tape on hoses that have a rubber seal at the end (a flared end) – the hose itself provides the seal, the tape would only thicken the joint and make disassembly difficult.

Step 5 – Checking the hose position: The hoses must not be twisted, sharply bent or under tension. The minimum bending radius of most braided steel hoses is 50 mm. A hose that is too twisted will burst after years of operation and flood your entire cabinet under the sink.

Step 6 – Turning on the water and checking the tightness: Slowly open the angle valve (first only 1/4 turn), listen and watch the connections. If everything is dry, open the valve fully. Turn on the tap, check the flow. Then turn off the water and inspect all connections under a light (flashlight) – even if there are no visible drops, the connection may be damp. Moisture on the thread is a sign of incorrect sealing.

Installation of a bath tap and shower combination

Bath taps and shower combinations (so-called bath set or set with a branch for the shower) are mounted differently than wall-mounted taps – they are mounted directly to the wall. We distinguish two situations: installation to built-in wall connections (pipes embedded in the wall) or installation to a wall adapter (so-called ceiling connector or support).

With built-in wall connections, the axial distance between hot and cold water must be exactly 150 mm (or 152 mm in some older systems). Before installing the tap, measure this distance! If the spacing is different, you will need adjustable eccentric connecting washers – these are part of most Balletto bath taps and allow to correct the position by ±15 to ±20 mm. The eccentrics must be tightened (both centered) and sealed with Teflon on the outlets from the wall before installing the tap.

After the eccentric washers, the installation of sealing washers (usually metal or chrome-plated plastic caps) follows. These washers must fit perfectly against the wall. If the wall is uneven (which is common with tiling), apply a thin layer of silicone under the washers. Not to seal water (this is done by the rubber seals inside), but to cover the gaps and prevent moisture from getting behind the washers and corroding the eccentric washers.

Mount the faucet onto the eccentric washers – usually a 3/4" or 1/2" threaded connection. Tighten the faucet with a wrench so that it stands straight (use a spirit level). Important detail: hot water is always on the left (viewed from the front) and cold on the right. This is the European standard and Balletto faucets are designed accordingly – the cartridge or thermostat is set for this connection. Swapping the connections can cause incorrect operation of the thermostatic head or cartridge.

Installation of a built-in faucet – a special case

Built-in Balletto faucets are the most demanding type in terms of installation, as the body is installed before tiling the bathroom – meaning that any mistake in this phase can only be corrected by breaking the wall. The body (so-called built-in frame or box) is placed into the wall at the correct depth (standardly 65–70 mm behind the tile surface, depending on the specific model), fixed into the structural wall, and connected to the hot and cold water lines.

Key principles for installing a built-in body:

The body must be precisely aligned in both vertical and horizontal planes – use a spirit level in both axes
The depth of installation is set according to the expected tile thickness + adhesive (usually 10–15 mm) – the manufacturer specifies the exact dimension in the installation instructions
The connections (supply lines) are connected before tiling, and the opening in the body is covered with a protective cap to prevent mortar or adhesive from entering during masonry and tiling work
After the tiling is completed, the visible part is mounted – control elements (lever or rotating knobs) and decorative washer. These parts are screwed onto the body from the front
Before closing the wall, always perform a pressure test – pressurize the system to 6–10 bar (depending on the regulations), for at least 30 minutes, and check that the pressure does not drop anywhere

In practice, it often happens that a customer buys a built-in faucet first, and only then realizes that the body is dimensioned for a different type of tile or different pipe depths. If you are planning a bathroom renovation with built-in faucets, the topic of selection and type comparison is covered in the article Balletto faucets: overview of types – lever, thermostatic, built-in in our Knowledge Center.

Common installation errors and how to avoid them

Over the years of practice, I have seen these errors repeated again and again. It is worth knowing them to avoid repeating them yourself:

Error #1: Over-tightening the nuts on ceramic. An over-tightened mounting nut on a porcelain sink can crack the ceramic. The tightening torque should not exceed 8–10 Nm. If you don't have a torque wrench, the rule of thumb is: tighten firmly by hand + 1/4 turn with the wrench.

Error #2: Swapped connections (hot and cold). The new faucet may work, but hot water flows from the right and cold from the left – the thermostat or cartridge will not function correctly. Always check: hot on the left (T or red mark), cold on the right (S or blue mark).

Error #3: Missing gasket under the faucet base. The washer under the faucet base on the sink must be present – otherwise water will leak through the hole in the sink into the cabinet. A small rubber gasket, but a big effect.

Error #4: Too short or twisted hoses. Flexible hoses must not be stretched or sharply bent. Always measure the distance before buying the hoses – if the pipes are lower or further away than standard, buy longer ones.

Error #5: Uncleaned inlet filter (aerator). New Balletto faucets have an aerator installed at the outlet. After the first water run, unscrew the aerator and flush it – in new piping or after replacement, dirt can be present in the pipes and will get trapped here, blocking the water flow. This check should be a standard part of every installation.

Error #6: Installation without checking the pressure in the pipes. If the pressure in the network is too high (over 5–6 bar), cartridges and thermostats have significantly reduced lifespan. Before installing a quality faucet, have the pressure measured (a pressure gauge costs a few euros, and an adjustable pressure-reducing valve at the entrance to the apartment will permanently solve high pressure). More on this topic can be found in the article What pipe diameter and flow rate do I need for the faucet.

First start-up – what to watch for and when to call a professional

After completing the installation, the correct procedure for the first water start-up is as follows: open the corner valve only a quarter turn and let the water slowly fill the pipes. This reduces the hydraulic shock, which can push seals out of grooves or damage hose gaskets when water is suddenly turned on. Monitor all connections – ideally with a mirror and a clean cloth placed under each connection.

If dripping appears at a threaded connection, do not try to fix it by tightening alone – first try tightening by 1/8 turn. If the connection still leaks after tightening, turn off the water, remove the hose, and add a layer of Teflon tape. Never wrap Teflon tape around a connection with a rubber seal (it will only compress the rubber seal more).

After the installation is complete and the connections are dry, check the faucet again after 24 hours – some seals may settle into their final shape only after running and minor dampness may appear that was not visible immediately after installation.

Call a professional in these cases: a broken thread on the wall outlet, corrosion found on the supply pipes, unexplained pressure drop when starting water, the faucet makes noise (popping, bubbling) – these are signs that go beyond normal DIY installation. Diagnosis and solutions for faults are described in the article Common faults in water faucets – dripping, stiff lever, weak flow.

Maintenance after installation – what to do next

A newly installed Balletto faucet requires minimal but regular maintenance. In the first year, I recommend checking the mounting nut – it can loosen slightly due to vibrations (especially if there is a washing machine or pump nearby). Clean the aerator and filter every 6 months – limescale builds up gradually and reduces water flow. Detailed cleaning and maintenance procedures can be found in the articles Maintenance and cleaning of Balletto faucets – how to extend lifespan and How to remove limescale from a bathroom faucet.

Ceramic cartridges in the lever mixer Balletto have a lifespan of 10–15 years under proper pressure and normal use. If dripping appears after several years, it is not necessary to replace the entire mixer – replacing the cartridge is sufficient. The process is simpler than most people think and is described in detail in the article Replacing the seal and cartridge in the Balletto mixer yourself.

Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Do I need to shut off the entire apartment's water supply when replacing the mixer, or is it enough to close the corner valve under the sink?

If the corner valves are functional and do not leak, it is sufficient to close them – you do not need to shut off the entire apartment. Before removing the old mixer, open the tap to drain the remaining water from the connections. If the corner valves are corroded, hardened, or leak after closing, replace them first (this requires shutting off the main water supply) and only then install the mixer.

Why is the water flow weaker after installing the new mixer than before?

The most common cause is a clogged aerator or a filter screen in the mixer's inlet neck. During installation, deposits and impurities are released from the pipes and get caught there. Unscrew the aerator (turn to the left, usually by hand), rinse it under water, or soak it in vinegar for 30 minutes. If the flow still does not increase, check the corner valves – if they are not fully open, they will restrict the flow.

Can I use the old supply hose from the old mixer?

Absolutely not. Braided flexible hoses have a recommended lifespan of 5–7 years. An old hose may be corroded or mechanically worn from the inside, even if it looks fine from the outside. A hose rupture under pressure will cause a flooded bathroom and apartment. A new hose costs only a few euros – the savings are not worth the risk.

The mixer wobbles or rotates after installation – what am I doing wrong?

The securing nut under the sink is not tightened enough. Make sure the metal (or plastic) washer is properly seated on the flat ceramic surface, not on the edge of the hole. If the hole in the sink is larger than the mixer base (non-standard diameter), use a larger metal ring or adapter – installation without it will result in exactly this kind of wobbling.

Do I need to use an offset when installing a bath mixer, or can I do without it?

Offsets are necessary if the distance between the wall outlets is not exactly 150 mm, or if the outlets do not align with the mixer connections at the same depth. Offsets allow for position correction in the range of ±15 to ±20 mm. Without offsets, the plumbing must be precisely laid out – if it is not, an attempt to connect the mixer directly will result in either a leaking joint or a mechanically stressed mixer that will later break off from the wall.

What if the hole in the sink is not the standard 35 mm, but larger?

Most Balletto mixers are designed for a 35 mm hole. For larger holes (for example, 52 mm in older sinks), reduction rings or adapters are available. Some models include a larger cover ring in the package specifically for this case – check the package contents and installation instructions. If the mixer does not fit the hole even with an adapter, consider replacing the sink or choosing another mixer model with a matching base diameter.

Conclusion

Installing a Balletto mixer is not rocket science, but there are details that determine whether the mixer will be permanently sealed, function correctly, and last many years without problems. Invest enough time in preparation – proper tools, new seals, thawed hoses, and a thorough inspection after installation will save expensive repairs and the stress of a flooded bathroom. If you have doubts about any step, consult a professional or read more articles in our Knowledge Center – for example, How to choose Balletto mixers for your bathroom and kitchen or Common questions about Balletto mixers.

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