Installation of Donner Touch Thermostatic Radiator Valve Step by Step
Step-by-step installation of the Donner touchless faucet – a complete guide for DIY enthusiasts and professionals
Installing a touchless faucet may seem more complicated at first glance than replacing a standard lever or thermostatic faucet. Most people stop at the sight of cables, sensor modules, transformers, and boxes with electronics and say to themselves that they will leave it to the plumber. However, with a bit of systematic approach and following the correct sequence of steps, an experienced DIY enthusiast can manage the installation without special training. This guide will walk you through the entire process from the first look into the box to the first test – with real dimensions, practical tips from field experience, and explanations of what can go wrong and why.
If you are still considering whether a touchless faucet makes sense for your space, read the article Touchless vs. traditional faucets – is the switch to touchless worth it? first. This guide assumes that you have already made a decision and either have the faucet at home or are currently selecting it online.
What you will find in the package of the Donner touchless faucet
Before you start the installation, spread out the contents of the package on the table and check for completeness. The package of Donner touchless faucets usually includes:
- the faucet body with spout (outlet)
- a sensor module or an integrated sensor in the body of the faucet
- an electronic control box – either separate or built into the base of the faucet
- supply hoses (flexible connections) G3/8" or G1/2", usually 30–50 cm long
- mounting nut and rubber sealing washer
- mounting rod (long screw/rod with nut) for securing the faucet body into the hole in the countertop
- power adapter 220V/6V or 220V/9V (if it is AC powered) or battery holder (AA or D-cell)
- installation instructions in several languages
- possibly a solenoid valve (electromagnetic valve) as a separate component for some models
If something is missing, contact the seller before you start the installation. Missing seals or the wrong hose will stop you in the middle of the job – and that is more unpleasant than waiting for a replacement part to arrive before installation.
Tools and materials you will need
Installing a touchless faucet is not demanding in terms of equipment, but you really need to have a few things on hand, otherwise a one-hour job can turn into a full-day project.
- Adjustable wrench (spanner) or fixed wrench 24–32 mm for tightening connection nuts
- Set of wrenches/socket set – for the mounting nut under the countertop (space is limited)
- Sealing tape (PTFE) – white tape for threaded connections, 2–3 layers are enough
- Voltage tester or multimeter – if you are installing a power adapter, you need to know where the live wire is
- Flashlight or headlamp – the space under the sink or countertop is dark
- Bucket or bowl to catch residual water from the pipes
- Hose or cloth to wipe up any leaks
- Drill with a set of drill bits – only if you need to drill a new hole in the countertop or wall for the cable
- Masking tape or marker to mark hot and cold water before disassembly
Preparation before installation – what to check in advance
Hole diameter in the countertop
The standard hole for a faucet has a diameter of 32–35 mm. Most Donner touchless faucets are designed for a 32–35 mm hole, but the base of the faucet (rosette) will cover it even if it is 5–8 mm larger. If you have an old hole from the original faucet and you are unsure of its exact diameter, measure it with a caliper or cylindrical object. If the hole is too small (for example, 25 mm from some old double-hole faucets), it is necessary to enlarge it with an appropriate drill bit – that is a different chapter.
Countertop thickness
The mounting rod (mounting screw with nut) must reach behind the countertop and pull the faucet tight. Most Donner faucets have a mounting rod 10–12 cm long, which is sufficient for countertops 2–6 cm thick. For thicker countertops (stone, thick ceramic), check in advance whether the rod is long enough to allow the nut to be tightened.
Power supply type – resolve this before installation, not after it
This is the most important point of preparation. Donner touchless faucets are available in three power supply versions: battery-powered (AA or D-cell, 4–6 pcs), mains-powered (adapter 220V/6V or 9V DC), or combined. You will read more about the choice of power supply in the article Power supply for touchless faucets – batteries, mains or solar panel.
For the purposes of installation, it is crucial to note this: if you want mains power, you must have an electrical outlet within reach or have an electrician extend the cable or install a new outlet under the sink in advance. The adapter cable is usually 1.2–1.8 m long, which is usually sufficient for a standard sink with a typical outlet location (behind the mirror or next to the sink), but not always. Resolve this before you turn off the water – it is very unpleasant to discover after installation that you have nowhere to plug in the adapter.
Closing the water and removing the old faucet
The first practical step in installation is to shut off the water supply. You have two options:
- Angle valves directly under the sink – ideal, turn both (hot and cold) clockwise until tight. If you don't have angle valves or they are stuck, you will have to go further.
- Main water shut-off valve for the apartment or house – less convenient, but reliable. Inform other household members.
After closing the water, open the old faucet (if it still exists) and let the residual water drain from the pipes into a bucket. Never assume that after closing the angle valve all the water is gone – usually 0.5–1.5 dl remains, which is not much, but during work above your head it can spill down your neck.
To remove the old faucet, disconnect the hoses (connections with G3/8" or G1/2" fittings) and loosen the mounting nut under the countertop. The mounting nut is usually plastic with wings (can be loosened by hand) or a metal hexagonal one, which requires a wrench. With an old faucet that has been hanging there for 15 years, expect that the nut may be seized – carefully use an extension for the wrench or a special faucet wrench (flat wrench with a long arm), which can be bought at any larger hardware store.
Installation of the Donner faucet body
Preparing the rubber sealing ring
Under the base (foot) of the faucet goes a rubber sealing washer – usually in the shape of a ring with a diameter of 60–80 mm. This washer prevents water from entering between the faucet and the countertop and also slightly dampens vibrations. Place it on the countertop exactly on the hole before you put on the faucet. If the countertop is uneven (a stone countertop with a rougher surface), it is a good idea to apply a thin line of silicone sealant to the washer – not too much, just enough to fill possible irregularities. A silicone-sealed faucet is harder to remove, but water won't leak.
Mounting the faucet into the hole
Push the faucet body through the hole from above. Make sure the faucet is oriented correctly – the spout should face the user, not the wall. Usually, there is a groove or protrusion in the base of the faucet to prevent rotation; if not, improvise with a marker pen mark on the base and the countertop.
From below, slide on the mounting nut (usually plastic with wings) and the mounting rod. Tighten alternately and evenly – if you tighten on one side, the faucet can bend. The target tightening force is "tight by hand and half a turn with a wrench" – over-tightening deforms the rubber washer and can crack the ceramic of a thin sink. This is very common. Less experienced plumbers often make a big mistake here.
Connecting the supply hoses
Now connect the supply hoses. Always check which is hot and which is cold water – on angle valves it is usually indicated by color (red = hot, blue = cold) or letter (H = hot, C = cold). On the faucet body or in the manual you will find which connection is which – for touchless faucets it is usually the same as for classic ones: left thread = hot water.
Apply 2–3 layers of Teflon tape to each thread and screw the hoses by hand, then tighten with a wrench. Note: the hoses are usually made of aluminum braid with brass ends – they are not designed to be easily rotated. Over-tightening can damage the thread on the solenoid or on the angle valve. Tighten firmly, but not excessively.
Connecting the electrical part – control box and sensor
This is the part where DIY enthusiasts often hesitate. However, with the correct procedure, it is simple and safe – contactless batteries operate at low voltage (6V or 9V DC), so the battery electronics itself is not dangerous. The risk lies only in the mains part, i.e., on the side of the 220V adapter.
Connecting battery power
If you have chosen battery power, insert the batteries (usually 4× AA or 4–6× D-cell) into the holder, observe the polarity (+ and – are marked), and connect the connector to the control box. The connector is usually unambiguous – it has only one shape that fits into the box. Secure the battery holder to the mounting location – either it slides into a special recess in the battery body, or it is attached with adhesive tape or a screw on the wall behind the sink.
Battery capacity: under normal home use (50–100 openings per day), AA batteries last 1–1.5 years, D-cell batteries up to 2–3 years. A more detailed discussion of this topic is covered in the article Powering contactless faucets – batteries, mains or solar panel.
Connecting the mains adapter
The mains adapter converts 220V AC to 6V or 9V DC. Connect the output connector of the adapter to the control box. Plug the adapter into the mains socket only at the very end – after everything else is completed and checked. Never plug the adapter into the mains before the control box is firmly assembled and the hoses are sealed.
Make sure the supply cable is not routed over a sharp edge, not clamped too tightly by mounting clamps, and not lying in a place where it could get wet (directly under the waste trap). A good electrician will secure the cable with plastic cable clamps on the wall – neat, safe, and serviceable.
Connecting the control box to the solenoid valve
In batteries where the solenoid valve is separate from the control box (common in sink and freestanding versions), it is necessary to connect them with the supplied cable. The connectors are usually color-coded or shape-unambiguous – they cannot be connected in reverse. Route the cable so that it does not interfere and is not in contact with hot pipes (if within reach). The recommended ambient temperature for the control box is 0–40°C, and the solenoid valve usually withstands media temperature up to 60–65°C.
Setting and testing after installation
First water opening and leak check
Now slowly open the angle valves – first only a quarter turn, wait 30 seconds, and check all connections. Then open fully. Check:
- hose connection on the angle valve (by touch from below, and visually with a flashlight)
- hose connection on the solenoid or battery inlet
- sealing of the escutcheon on the countertop (whether water is leaking between the faucet and the countertop)
- the faucet body itself – whether it is dripping anywhere
If there is a drip, immediately close the water and tighten the connection. If it is dripping from the gap between the base and the countertop, the sealing rubber gasket is likely insufficient – apply a thin layer of silicone around the perimeter and let it cure for 24 hours before restarting.
Setting the sensor range
After connecting the power, the sensor is automatically activated. Most Donner faucets have a preset sensor range of 10–15 cm, which is optimal for a standard sink. Some models allow sensitivity (range) adjustment with a small potentiometer on the control box – turning clockwise increases sensitivity (larger range), the opposite reduces it.
An ideal range for a sink is 8–12 cm, for a basin 10–18 cm. Too high sensitivity causes the faucet to open automatically due to movement nearby (e.g., when you just walk by), while too low sensitivity requires you to bring your hand very close to the sensor. For more information on sensor issues, read the article What sensor range do I need for a sink or basin.
Setting the automatic shut-off timer
Most Donner contactless faucets have an adjustable automatic shut-off timer – i.e., how many seconds the water will flow after you remove your hand from the sensor area. Standard is 3–5 seconds. On the control box, you will find either a potentiometer or DIP switches with various combinations for different times (1 s, 3 s, 5 s, 10 s). Refer to the manual for settings – the DIP switch layout is specific to each model.
I recommend setting 3–5 seconds for home use. For public spaces (restaurants, offices), a shorter time of 1–3 seconds is better – less water wastage. More about real water savings can be found in the article Water savings with contactless faucets – real numbers and experiences.
Typical installation problems and their solutions
Tap rotates in the hole after installation
Cause: the locking nut is not tightened enough or the safety pin/ridge is missing on the base. Solution: tighten the nut from the bottom again, or add a second nut as a locknut. If the hole is too large (over 40 mm) for the tap base, you may need to use a larger escutcheon or washer.
Water drips at the hose connection after sealing
Cause: insufficient amount of Teflon tape, damaged thread or missing flat washer inside the hose end. Solution: turn off the water, unscrew the hose, add Teflon, or replace the rubber sealing insert inside each end of the braided hose. These inserts harden and crack over time – they need to be replaced with new ones.
Sensor does not react immediately after power is connected
Most touchless taps have an initialization time of 5–30 seconds after the first power connection – during this time the sensor calibrates the surrounding environment and does not react to movement. Wait at least 30 seconds before starting to test. If it still does not react after a minute, check whether power is actually flowing (with a multimeter) and whether the connectors are properly inserted. For more sensor faults and their causes, read the article Why the touchless tap leaks or does not react to movement.
Water keeps flowing even when no hand is near the sensor
Cause #1: the solenoid valve is dirty or damaged and does not close. Cause #2: the sensor detects a reflection from a shiny surface (mirror, chrome faucet) and keeps activating. Solution: check the area around the sensor to ensure it is not directly pointing at a reflective surface, and possibly reduce the sensor sensitivity. For information on cleaning the valve, read the article Common touchless tap faults and their solutions.
Differences in installation depending on the type of installation
Tap on the edge of the sink (deck-mounted)
This is the most common type – the tap is mounted through a hole in the sink or cabinet top next to the sink. The procedure is exactly as described above. It is important to check the thickness of the surface and the length of the mounting rod.
Wall-mounted tap (wall-mounted)
Wall-mounted touchless taps have a different mounting logic: the body of the tap is attached to a mounting plate/frame screwed into the wall. The water supply is built into the wall (pre-installed underfloor plumbing). Before installation, you must know the exact distance between the centers of the hot and cold water outlets (standard is 150 mm), their depth from the wall face, and their height. The sensor is usually in the body of the tap or in the spout. The control box is mounted either directly behind the tap in the wall, or in a mounting box. This is an installation where I recommend in 90% of cases to assist an experienced plumber – not because it is dangerous, but because a mistake in dimensions during underfloor installation is much more expensive to fix.
Sink-mounted tap (kitchen/sink mounted)
Donner sink-mounted touchless taps are usually taller (spout above the sink), with a longer arm and higher pressure. The installation procedure is the same as for a basin-mounted tap, but the locking nut is usually harder to access due to the depth of the cabinet under the sink. A special tap wrench (basin wrench) with a long arm is really useful here. The sensor on sink-mounted taps has a wider detection cone to catch the movement of dishes and hands during washing. Set the sensor range to 12–18 cm.
Maintenance after installation – what to do and what not to do
After a successful installation, most people wonder how to keep the tap in good condition for as long as possible. A few rules:
- Do not clean the tap body with aggressive chemicals – especially the sensor window (usually a dark plastic lens) on the spout. Aggressive cleaning agents cloud the plastic sensor cover and reduce its sensitivity. Use a damp cloth with neutral soap.
- Regularly check the batteries (if using battery power) – a dead battery causes unstable behavior: sometimes it reacts, sometimes it does not. Plan to replace them preventively every 12 months, not only when the battery stops working.
- Check the electrical connections once a year – visually inspect the hoses and connectors to see if corrosion or moisture is starting anywhere.
- If you are away for a longer period (holiday, weekend at the cottage) close the stop valves – this saves the sensor battery and protects against possible solenoid valve failure.
A detailed cleaning and maintenance procedure for the sensor can be found in the article Cleaning and maintenance of a touchless tap – how to extend the life of the sensor.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can I replace a classic lever tap with a touchless one without drilling or modifying the plumbing?
In most cases, yes. Touchless taps are designed to fit into standard 32–35 mm holes and are powered through standard G3/8" stop valves. If you have an old tap on the sink with one central hole, the replacement is straightforward. Complications arise with old two- or three-hole installations, where hot and cold water are led through separate holes – in these cases, an adapter or a model with split supply hoses is needed.
What if the hole in the surface is too large (e.g. 40–45 mm)?
Most touchless taps have a base with a diameter of 55–70 mm, so they will cover a 40–42 mm hole without problems. For a larger hole, you must use a decorative escutcheon (escutcheon plate), which you should order together with the tap. Some Donner models include it in the package, for others it is an accessory.
Is the installation of a touchless tap legally restricted to licensed professionals?
The installation of a water tap (replacing a tap) is not restricted to licensed professionals, as it is considered regular household maintenance and does not involve work behind the shut-off valve. A different situation arises if you need to install a new electrical socket – this must be done by an electrician with a valid license. Some apartment buildings may have their own rules (house rules, property manager), where you may be required to report a renovation, but replacing a tap with another tap usually does not fall into that category.
What if the sensor keeps detecting movement after installation, even though no one is standing by the sink?
The most common cause is a reflection of the sensor beam from a shiny surface – a mirror, chrome fittings or white ceramic, if the sensor is pointing at an incorrect angle. Try reducing the sensor sensitivity by turning the potentiometer on the control box. If that does not help, check whether the sensor window is dirty (moisture, limescale) – this can scatter the beam and cause false detections. A more detailed explanation is given in the article Why the touchless tap leaks or does not react to movement.
How long does it take to install a touchless tap?
Replacing an old classic tap with a new touchless one on the sink surface, with battery power and normal accessibility to the plumbing, takes an experienced DIYer 45–90 minutes. If you are using mains power and need to run a cable, add 30–60 minutes. A wall-mounted (underfloor) installation is a completely different project – expect half a day of work, even with good accessibility.
Can I use a Donner touchless tap with an electric water heater (boiler)?
Yes, Donner touchless taps are compatible with pressure electric water heaters. With pressureless heaters (low-pressure flow heater), you must use a special tap designed for low pressure, otherwise the solenoid will not open properly. Always check the minimum working pressure in the product's technical specifications – usually 0.05–0.1 MPa for standard versions and 0.02–0.05 MPa for low-pressure versions.
Conclusion – installing a touchless tap is not rocket science, but it does require systematic approach
From dozens of customer cases where I have seen touchless taps installed and not installed (i.e., those that came to me with problems after installation by someone else), one clear conclusion emerges: most problems did not arise because the product was bad or because the installation was too complicated. They arose because someone skipped a step, did not read the instructions or was in a rush. A rubber washer installed backwards. Teflon omitted because "it didn't matter before". An adapter connected to the power before everything else was dry connected.
Contactless faucets from Donner are designed for easy installation – they have color-coded connectors, clear shape coding, come with all the necessary mounting materials, and the packaging includes an illustrated manual. If you study this guide before installation, prepare the right tools, and follow the steps in order – you'll manage it. And when the faucet reacts for the first time to the approach of your hand and turns on the water without you touching anything, that satisfaction is worth it.
You can find an overview of available models in the category of contactless faucets from Donner on atria.sk – filter by power supply, mounting type (basin / countertop / wall) and sensor range to quickly find the model that exactly matches your situation.
Do you have a question about this topic?
Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we're happy to help.