Step-by-step installation of floor heating

Installation of floor heating is a complex process that requires strict adherence to technical standards and procedures to ensure the system operates efficiently and flawlessly. A properly designed installation not only ensures even heat distribution in the room but also significantly extends the lifespan of the entire heating system.

Preparation of the base and thermal insulation

The foundation of a successful installation is a perfectly level and clean base, which must not contain any dust, grease, or loose particles that could interfere with the contact between the layers. Insulation tape is applied around the perimeter walls on this surface, serving as a thermal expansion compensator and preventing heat transfer to the building structure.

Building base (concrete) Insulation board (EPS/XPS) Thermal resistance Strip insulation

The insulation must have sufficient thickness, which depends on whether you are heating above an unheated space or directly on the ground; a common value is 10 to 15 cm of polystyrene with a minimum density of 30 kg/m³. Without quality insulation, half of the energy would be lost downward, causing extremely long heating times and high operating costs.

Placement of distributors and pipe tracks

Distributors are the heart of the entire system, so they must be placed in such a way that they are accessible for maintenance and at the same time minimize the length of supply pipes to individual loops. Pipe tracks or grids are attached to the insulation layer using special fasteners, with the important factor being the precise distance between the loops, which usually represents 10 to 20 centimeters.

  • Use pre-prepared grids that allow for faster and more accurate installation of bends.
  • Pipes must be protected against mechanical damage during subsequent work.
  • Ensure that all connections are outside the concrete layer and are accessible via a junction box.
  • Use suitable connecting materials and tools for different types of pipe (PEX, PERT).

An important part of the preparation is the correct dimensioning of the pipe, where the most commonly used hoses have an outer diameter of 16 mm or 17 mm, which is an ideal compromise between flow and thermal capacity. For longer routes, it is necessary to ensure that the maximum length of one loop is not exceeded, which should be limited to 80 to 100 meters to maintain the required pressure.

Fixing and securing the pipe

A key moment in the entire installation is the correct placement of the pipe on the insulation layer, where either individual fastening or special grids with integrated hooks are used. The pipe must be laid according to a pre-drawn schematic, ensuring that stretching or the formation of sharp bends is avoided, which could cause the pipe wall to collapse.

Supply Return Distributor 15 cm

We recommend using high-quality plastic underlays or "slippery" tape, which allow the pipe to move slightly during thermal expansion and thus prevent the formation of stress in the material. When laying, we often encounter the "snake" method, which is simple and efficient, but for larger rooms, a combination with the "spiral" method may be more suitable for better use of the area.

It is critical to maintain the minimum bend radius, which should not be less than five times the outer diameter of the pipe, i.e., approximately 80 mm for pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. If these rules are not followed, permanent deformation of the pipe wall and a reduction in the cross-section can occur, leading to a drop in flow and uneven heating.

Concrete pouring and pressure testing

The next phase is pouring the pipe with anhydrite or cement-based screed, and this operation must be carried out under constant pressure in the system, which is usually set to 4 to 6 bar. This pressure must be maintained throughout the entire drying time of the concrete to prevent air from entering the pipe and forming air pockets.

The concrete curing period should last at least 28 days before heating is started, and during the first week, the temperature should be increased very carefully, for example by 5 degrees per day. Experience shows that the most common mistake is heating new concrete too quickly, which leads to cracking and subsequent pipe damage. For safety, it is advisable to use special additives in the concrete that improve its plasticity and thermal conductivity.

System adjustment and regulation

After the concrete has dried, the final adjustment of the system follows, which includes the installation of thermostatic heads and programmable heads on each loop of the distributor. These devices allow for precise temperature setting for each room individually, which is key to achieving energy efficiency and user comfort.

Regulation should be based on the principle that the water temperature in the system is lower than with traditional radiators, usually ranging between 35 and 45 °C. It is important that the system is controlled by an intelligent thermostat that can react to external conditions and internal temperatures in real time. Properly set regulation can reduce energy consumption by up to 20 % compared to older systems.

Visual check of pressure differences in loops

Floor Even flow (Correct) Distance 15 cm Comparison Uneven distribution Colder zone

The schematic illustrates how a properly balanced loop with even heat distribution should look, and conversely, an example of incorrect connection leading to cold spots.

Principle of thermal insulation of room edges

Concrete screed Insulation strip (compression) Perimeter wall Thermal bridge Without strip With strip

This detail shows the critical function of the insulation strip, which separates the concrete layer from the perimeter walls and prevents the formation of thermal bridges at the room edges.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take for the concrete to dry before commissioning?

The minimum drying time for concrete is 28 days, but for safety and certainty, it is recommended to wait up to 30 days before turning on the heating for the first time.

Can I use any type of pipe?

No, it is recommended to use only certified PEX-A, PEX-B or PERT pipes, which are intended for long-term contact with hot water and have high resistance to oxygen diffusion.

What to do if the pressure in the system drops?

If the pressure drops, it probably means a water leak or air in the system; the leak must be located immediately and water added to the required pressure, or air purged.

Properly installed floor heating is an investment that will pay off in the form of lower energy bills and long-term system functionality without the need for intervention. Adhering to all technical steps from preparing the base to the final regulation is the only way to achieve optimal thermal comfort in your home.

Do you have a question about this topic?

Not sure or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us - we are happy to help.

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Vytvořil Shoptet | Design Shoptak.cz.