Step-by-step installation of plastic pipe hangers

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Step-by-step installation of plastic pipe clamps

Proper pipe support is one of those things that is often overlooked during renovations and new constructions – until the moment when the pipe starts "singing", cracking, or visibly pulling out of the wall. At first glance, plastic pipe clamps seem to be a simple item, but in practice, surprisingly many mistakes are made during their installation: incorrect diameter, too large spacing, weak substrate, poor anchoring element. The result? The pipe moves, makes noise, and in the worst case, the joint can be damaged or condensation can form in the wrong place.

This article will guide you step by step through the installation of plastic pipe clamps – from choosing the right type, through substrate preparation, drilling, anchoring, to the final inspection. We will focus on specific practical situations, including work with Hepworth system piping, which is becoming increasingly common in Slovak households.

Why proper clamp installation matters

Before we get into the actual procedure, it is important to understand what the clamps actually do and why their installation is not just "screwing plastic to the wall". Clamps serve several functions at once:

Mechanical support – supports the weight of the pipe including the weight of the medium (water, air) and possibly also thermal insulation.
Control of expansion – plastic and multilayer pipes significantly extend and shorten with temperature changes. Clamps must either allow this movement (sliding points) or firmly hold it (fixed points).
Prevention of vibrations and noise – insufficiently supported pipes resonate during medium flow and cause noise problems, which are particularly unpleasant in apartment buildings.
Aesthetics – pipes running along the wall must be straight, clean, and at a constant distance from the wall.

If you are interested in a deeper comparison of clamp types, see the article Plastic vs. metal pipe clamps – advantages, disadvantages, and suitable use in this Knowledge Center.

What you will need – tools and materials

Before the actual installation, prepare everything you will need. Nothing is more annoying than interrupting work due to a forgotten tool. Here is a complete list:

Clamps of the correct diameter – for each pipe diameter, there is a different clamp size. For the Hepworth system pipes, clamps in the 601xxxH series are intended.
Hammer drill or mallet drill – for concrete and brick, a hammer is essential, for drywall or wood a regular drill is sufficient.
Drills – the diameter of the hole must match the used anchor. Most commonly 6 mm or 8 mm for standard S6 and S8 anchors.
Anchor and screw – the type depends on the substrate (concrete, hollow brick, drywall, wooden beam).
Water level or laser level – for running a straight pipe along the wall.
Tape measure, pencil or marker – for marking the positions of the clamps.
Screwdriver or drill bit – according to the type of screw (cross, torx).
Protective equipment – safety glasses when drilling are a must.

Step 1: Choosing the right clamp

The first and perhaps most important step. The clamp must fit the pipe exactly – not too loose, nor forced. For the Hepworth system, there are available clamps in a single and double version.

Single clamp holds one pipe. It is used where only one line is running, or where there is enough spacing between two lines. This group includes, for example, Single Clamp 601004H, Single Clamp 601005H and Single Clamp 601006H, each of which is intended for a different pipe diameter.

Double clamp holds two pipes next to each other at one anchoring point. It is suitable for parallel routing, for example, supply and return pipes of heating. From this group are available Double Clamp 601007H and Double Clamp 601008H.

More about when to reach for a single and when for a double clamp, you will find in the article Single Clamp vs. Double Clamp – when to use which.

Step 2: Determining Spacings and Marking Positions

This is a step that most people underestimate. The result is that the clamps are placed randomly and the pipe between them bends or vibrates. Spacings depend on the pipe diameter, its material, and whether the pipe is horizontal or vertical.

For plastic pipes (PP, PEX, Hepworth multi-layered), the following approximate values apply:

Pipe Diameter	Horizontal Installation	Vertical Installation
15 mm	500 – 700 mm	800 – 1 000 mm
18 mm	600 – 800 mm	900 – 1 200 mm
22 mm	700 – 900 mm	1 000 – 1 400 mm
28 mm and above	900 – 1 200 mm	1 200 – 1 600 mm

Further details including special cases (bends, branches, transitions) can be found in the article Spacing of Pipe Clamps – How to Correctly Position the Fixings.

Practical Procedure for Marking:

Using a spirit level or laser level, mark a reference line along the wall at the height where the pipe will run.
Mark the positions of individual clamps on this line with a pencil according to the calculated spacing.
The first clamp should always be placed no more than 150–200 mm from any joint, bend or fitting. This rule applies without exception.
Check whether any clamp position falls on a spot where there is electrical wiring, another pipe or structural reinforcement behind the wall. In case of uncertainty, use a metal or cable detector.

Step 3: Preparing the Base and Drilling

The base into which you are anchoring has a decisive influence on the choice of anchor and drilling depth. Therefore, always check first what is behind the plaster.

Massive concrete and solid brick are ideal bases. A standard S6 anchor with an anchoring depth of 40–50 mm is sufficient. Drill with a masonry bit, diameter 6 mm.

Perforated brick and aerated concrete (Ytong) are problematic. A standard anchor will not hold here. Use special expansion anchors for hollow materials (so-called butterfly anchors) or long anchors for aerated concrete with a minimum anchoring depth of 60–70 mm. Never drill into Ytong with a hammer function – use regular rotation without hammering, otherwise the material around the hole will be crushed.

Gypsum board – never fix clamps directly into gypsum board unless there is a solid base behind it. If not, use gypsum board anchors (molly bolt, gripanker) or locate a shelf where a CW or UW profile is located and anchor with a self-tapping screw into it.

Wooden beams and laths – here a standard wood screw (Torx 3,5 × 35 mm and similar) is sufficient. You do not need an anchor for wood, but pre-drilling with a smaller bit prevents the wood from splitting.

Step-by-step Drilling Procedure:

Fit the correct drill bit – for standard S6 anchors this is a 6 mm bit, for S8 anchors an 8 mm bit.
Set the drilling depth using a tape attached to the bit or using a depth stop on the drill. Drilling depth = anchor length + 5 mm (reserve for chips).
Drill perpendicular to the wall. A deviated hole causes the anchor to shift sideways when tightening the screw and does not create a proper anchoring.
After drilling, clean the hole – blow out or wipe out the chips. A dirty hole reduces the strength of the anchoring, and in the case of chemical anchoring, it is a crucial condition.
Press the anchor in with your fingers and tap it flush with the wall using a hammer (not too hard – it is enough for it to sit flush with the wall).

Step 4: Mounting the Clamp and Inserting the Pipe

After drilling and inserting the anchors, the actual installation of the clamp follows. The procedure varies depending on whether it is a simple or double anchor, and also depending on whether you are installing the pipe into a ready clamp or the other way around.

Procedure for a simple anchor (e.g. 601004H, 601005H, 601006H):

Hold the body of the clamp against the wall so that the hole for the screw aligns with the anchor.
Manually screw in the screw so that the clamp just touches the wall, but is not yet fully tightened. In this position, you can still slightly rotate or adjust the position of the clamp.
Check with a spirit level whether the axis of the clamp is exactly where it should be.
Tighten the screw – but be careful: plastic clamps do not require a high tightening torque. The plastic body can crack or deform if over-tightened. The screw should be "firm and a little more" – not forced. In practice, it is sufficient to tighten with a screwdriver without a belt drive, i.e. manually or with a low-speed setting on an impact driver.
Insert the pipe into the clamp's seat. Most Hepworth system clamps have a flexible grip or a click mechanism, so the pipe clicks directly into the clamp. Check that the pipe sits evenly in the entire bearing of the clamp.

Procedure for double clamping (e.g. 601007H, 601008H):

The clamping procedure is the same as for a single clamp.
Ensure that both pipe positions are at the correct height and spacing. A double clamp has a fixed geometry, so both pipes must fit on the axes defined by the clamp.
Insert the lower (or inner) pipe first, then the upper (outer) one. When routing supply and return heating pipes, it is common practice to place the hot (supply) pipe higher and the cold (return) pipe lower.
Check that both pipes are securely held and do not move in the transverse direction.

Step 5: Setting the fixed and sliding point

This is a topic that appears quite often during a standard apartment renovation, yet few people pay attention to it – and then they wonder why the pipe is pushing against the elbows or why stress appears at the joints.

Plastic and multi-layer pipes expand with temperature changes. For reference: a multi-layer Hepworth pipe (PE-AL-PE) has a linear expansion coefficient of approximately 0.025 mm/(m·K). For a 10-meter section with a temperature difference of 60 °C (e.g., a dry system installation at 70 °C and assembly at 10 °C), this means an expansion of up to 15 mm. That is 1.5 centimeters that must go somewhere.

Fixed point (fixpunkt) – a clamp where the pipe is firmly secured and cannot move in the longitudinal direction. It serves as a "reference point" for expansion – the pipe expands from it in both directions. A fixed point should always be located at a valve, branch or T-piece.

Sliding point (kluzný bod) – a clamp where the pipe can slide in the longitudinal direction, but is guided in the transverse direction. Technically, this means the clamp is not tightly tightened, or it has a special sliding seat. In practice, for standard apartment installations, this is often solved by sufficient length of straight sections and right-angle direction changes, which function as compensators.

Step 6: Final inspection after installation

After installing all clamps and inserting the pipe, take a few minutes for a systematic inspection. In practice, it pays to go from the beginning of the route to the end and check each clamp individually.

Straightness – look along the pipe. You should see a straight line. Any clamp that is pushed out or pulled in compared to the others indicates a problem with the clamping or the clamp size.
Clamping strength – try to push on each clamp from the side. It must not move or wobble. If it moves, the screw is not tightened enough or the plug is not seated properly.
Pipe seating – the pipe must sit evenly in the clamp and must not be tilted to one side. If you see that the pipe is pressing against one side of the seat, the clamp is either too small or the clamp position is off-axis.
Stress on joints – check the joints, T-pieces and elbows immediately after clamping. No joint should be pulled or pushed due to the position of the clamps.
Pressure test – after the complete installation of the entire system, perform a pressure test according to the requirements of the standard or project documentation. Clamps themselves are not sealing elements, but any deformation of the pipe caused by poor clamping can be revealed precisely during the pressure test.

Typical errors from practice and how to avoid them

Over the years of practice, the same errors keep recurring. We mention them here not to hurt anyone – these are situations we commonly see even among experienced tradesmen. The goal is to help you avoid them.

Mistake No. 1: Clamp with too small a diameter. The pipe is forced into it "by force", which causes pipe deformation and concentrated load on the clamp wall. The pipe in such a clamp has no room for expansion and after some time, the joints break or the clamps themselves crack. More on selecting the correct diameter in the article What clamp diameter do I need – dimensional overview for 15 mm, 18 mm and other pipes.

Mistake No. 2: Too large spacing between clamps. The pipe sags, vibrates during flow, and under thermal load, the pressure on the joints can increase at the sagging point. This is especially common with hot water, where differences in pipe length are multiplied by expansion and become very noticeable.

Mistake No. 3: Clamping into an unsuitable material without the correct plug. A standard plastic plug S6 in hollow brick will give way after the first strong pull. The result is a loose clamp that is hanging only on the plaster.

Mistake No. 4: Cracked clamp due to exceeded tightening torque. The plastic body of the clamp will crack when tightened too hard – and not always immediately visible. Micro-cracks will appear later, when the clamp cracks completely under load. Tighten the screw firmly, but without using a force tool.

Mistake No. 5: Clamps on insulation instead of on the pipe. If the pipe is wrapped in thermal insulation, the clamp must go around the insulation and still be large enough. Sometimes installers place the clamp on the bare pipe and then slide the insulation over – that is acceptable. But a clamp on the insulation alone, without contact with the pipe, stabilizes nothing.

Read more about the most common problems after installation in the article Common problems with plastic pipe clamps – cracking, loosening, incorrect size.

Special situations in practice

Mounting on a drywall partition wall

Drywall partition walls are common in modern apartments. If there is no profile or solid backing behind the drywall, you must either drill access holes to the wall structure and anchor into it, or use hollow wall anchors (molly bolt minimum M5). For pipes DN15 and DN18, this is usually sufficient for normal load. For heavier pipes or longer sections, it is better to create a steel bracket, which you fix into the floor or ceiling.

Mounting in the bathroom and other damp areas

Plastic clamps are resistant to moisture, which is a big advantage over some metal alternatives. However, screws and anchors must also be made of corrosion-resistant material (stainless steel screws A2 or nylon anchors). Galvanized screws in the bathroom will rust over time, lose their strength, and the aesthetics of the installation will suffer. Install clamps into tile joints either before tiling or after tiling using specialized anchoring systems for tiles/backsplashes.

Mounting during reconstruction of an existing installation

When replacing pipe in an existing route, you may encounter the fact that the old clamps were placed differently than a modern system would require. In such a case, it is not worth blindly patching the original layout – always check the entire route, mark the correct positions according to current rules, and fill old holes with sealant if necessary before drilling new ones.

Compatibility of clamps with the Hepworth system

The Hepworth system mainly uses multi-layer pipe PE-AL-PE, which has less linear expansion compared to standard plastic pipe (the aluminum layer limits thermal expansion), but at the same time has precise external dimensions, to which the clamps must fit exactly. Therefore, it is recommended to use clamps directly from the Hepworth range (series 601xxxH), which are dimensioned for the exact external dimensions of Hepworth pipes. Read more about compatibility in the article Clamps for the Hepworth system – compatibility with plastic pipe.

Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Can I use a clamp designed for 15 mm pipe on a 16 mm pipe?

No, it is not sufficient. The 15 mm and 16 mm dimensions refer to the outer diameter, and a 1 mm difference means that the clamp will either not hold the pipe properly or the pipe will be loose in it. Always use a clamp with a diameter exactly matching the outer diameter of the pipe. For the Hepworth system, clamps 601xxxH are manufactured for the specific dimensions of this system.

How many clamps do I need for a 10-meter DN15 pipe run?

For horizontal pipe routing of DN15, the standard spacing is 500–700 mm. For a 10-meter run, this means 14–20 clamps (including clamps at joints and fittings). In practice, always allow for a reserve – it is better to have a couple of extra clamps than to be short. Do not forget the clamps at each elbow and T-piece – they must be placed within a maximum of 150 mm from the joint.

What to do if a clamp loosens over time?

First, check whether the anchor in the wall or just the screw has loosened. If the problem is with the screw, simply tighten it. If the anchor is seated poorly (it is loose or rotating in the hole), you must resolve the entire anchoring point from scratch – a larger anchor, chemical anchoring, or choosing a different location. Never reuse a dislodged anchor in the same hole without chemical mortar. Read more about the causes of loosening in the article Common problems with plastic clamps – cracking, loosening, incorrect size.

Do I need to perform a pressure test when installing clamps?

A pressure test is not required due to the clamps themselves, but due to the entire pipe installation. After completing the installation of the entire system, a pressure test should always be performed according to STN EN 806 or another relevant standard (usually 1.5 times the working pressure for at least 30 minutes). Properly installed clamps have no effect on the test result – unless they cause pipe deformation or stress at the joints.

Can I install clamps on a pipe that is already filled with water?

Yes, you can add clamps to an operational pipe if the space allows. A water-filled pipe has a higher weight, so you should continuously check the strength of existing anchors. Be careful not to accidentally hit other hidden lines when drilling a new hole. For an operational system, it is recommended to turn off the circulation and reduce the pressure in the system to a minimum.

What is the difference between a clamp and a bracket?

Both terms are used quite loosely in practice and sometimes interchangeably. A clamp (or anchor in Hepworth terminology) is usually a single-piece element that is inserted onto the pipe from one side using a snap mechanism. A bracket is typically two-piece – a lower seat and an upper tightening band – joined by screws. Clamps are faster to install, brackets allow for more precise tightening. For standard home installations, plastic clamps (anchors) from the Hepworth range are fully sufficient.

Conclusion: Proper fastening is the basis of the installation's longevity

Mounting plastic clamps on pipes is not a complicated task, but it requires diligence, the correct choice of material, and an understanding of what clamps actually do in the installation. Each clamp that is in the right place, the correct diameter, and properly anchored contributes to the installation being quiet, durable, and trouble-free for decades.

If you are unsure about the correct type, take a look at the entire category plastic clamps for pipes and compare the individual products by diameter and design. For the Hepworth system, single and double anchors are available in various sizes, so you will find a suitable element for every pipe configuration.

If you are interested in more details about selection, also see other articles in this Knowledge Center – for example, How to choose the right plastic clamp for pipes – single vs. double or Maintenance and inspection of pipe clamps – what to pay attention to.

Do you have a question about this topic?

Not sure or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.