Step-by-step installation of Schütte tap

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Installation of Schütte tap – step by step – complete practical guide

Replacing or installing a new tap is one of those home tasks that many people underestimate and then unnecessarily pay a plumber for a job that actually takes twenty minutes. On the other hand, there are customers who make mistakes in other ways – they don't tighten the connections, forget the gaskets, or buy a tap with the wrong distance between outlets. The result is equally unpleasant: a flooded bathroom or a dripping tap in the middle of the night. This guide was created based on real experience from dozens of installations and repairs – you'll find not only "what to do" but also "where things often go wrong" and "how to fix it without unnecessary costs."

Before we get into the actual procedure, it's important to note that the installation of a Schütte tap varies depending on the type of tap (basin, countertop, bath, shower), the method of installation (on a trap, on the wall, into a panel), and whether it's a new installation or a replacement. This article covers all the main scenarios and gives you a guide that really works – not just on paper.

What you will need – tools and materials

Good preparation saves time and nerves. The list is based on practice – not from a tool catalog, where you'll find ten items, five of which you don't actually need.

Tools

Adjustable wrench (Svenskur) or combination wrench – size 24–32 mm for flexible hoses and mounting nuts.
Special tap wrench (strap wrench or long square wrench) – necessary for basin taps where standard wrenches can't reach through the hole in the sink. Without it, you'll suffer.
Flat and cross-head screwdriver – for removing the lever cover, or for fasteners and corner valve covers.
Needle-nose pliers / locking pliers – for rusted nuts or old connections.
Bucket and hose – water in the pipes will remain even after closing the supply, so you need to catch it.
Flashlight or headlamp – it's dark under the sink, you can't do proper work in the dark.
Teflon tape (PTFE) – for threaded connections where there is no rubber gasket.

Materials and spare parts

New Schütte tap including accessories (check what is included in the packaging).
Flexible hoses – if not included in the package; standard G3/8" or G1/2" with various lengths (30, 40, 50 cm).
Gaskets / washers – rubber or stainless steel, depending on the tap design.
Corner valves (ball valves) – if old and leaking, replace them together with the tap, not later.
Sealant (sanitary) – for taps mounted on a bath or wall surface.

Practical note: Schütte taps are usually delivered with flexible hoses and a mounting kit. Before purchasing, check exactly what the package includes. You can find this information always on the specific product page at Schütte taps.

Before installation – preparation and measurement

This is a step most DIY guides skip, and then the customer wonders why the tap doesn't fit. From experience, I know that at least a third of installation problems arise in this phase – not during the installation itself.

Determine the distance between the water outlets

The standard distance for basin taps is 100 mm (center to center). Bath taps have a standard of 150 mm, some older installations have 120 mm. The passage hole in the basin is usually 33–36 mm in diameter. If you are replacing a tap, measure the existing condition, don't leave it to chance. More detailed information about dimensions can also be found in the article Dimensions and connection of Schütte taps – what you need to know before buying.

Check the condition of the corner valves

The corner valve (shut-off valve under the sink) should seal perfectly when closed. If it leaks or is stiff during a test closure, replace it now – during the tap replacement, the access is ideal and the costs are minimal. A new corner valve G3/8" costs a few euros, a flooded bathroom much more.

Verify the length of the flexible hoses

The flexible hoses must lead from the corner valve to the tap without tension, kinking or sharp bends. Typical length is 30–40 cm, but it depends on the specific installation. Better to choose a longer one – excess can be hidden, shortage can't be fixed. Never stretch the flexible hose to the limit, you risk it bursting.

Closing the water supply – mandatory first step

It sounds obvious, but from experience I know it is not. I once worked on a job where the customer closed only the hot water stopcock and forgot about the cold one – it was winter, the pipes froze and the cracked connection caused a big flood in less than a minute. The procedure is as follows:

Close both stopcocks under the tap (hot and cold).
If you don't have or the stopcocks don't work, close the main water shut-off valve for the entire apartment or house.
Open the tap fully – both hot and cold positions – to release the remaining pressure from the pipes.
Place a bucket or a cloth under the connection – the remaining water in the hoses will drip out when you unscrew and it is always more than you expect.

Demounting the old tap

If you are replacing an existing tap, proceed as follows:

Step 1 – Unfastening the flexible hoses

Unscrew the flexible hose connections with a wrench from the side of the stopcock and from the side of the tap. The nuts are usually brass and delicate – don't use excessive force, rather use WD-40 or penetrating oil if the connection doesn't move. Never cut the flexible hoses – they are single-use, discard the old hose and install a new one.

Step 2 – Loosening the mounting nut

The tap is fastened to the sink from below by a mounting nut (a large plastic or metal nut on a rod that goes through the hole in the sink). This is where the mentioned tap wrench comes into play – a special tool with a long arm that is inserted from below. Without it, you won't reach the nuts deep under the sink. The nut is unscrewed to the left (standard left-hand thread – unscrew when looking up from below).

Step 3 – Removing the old tap

After loosening the nut, pull the tap upward out of the hole in the sink. It may be fixed with a gasket or adhesive – pulling and slight rotation usually releases it. Thoroughly clean the area left by the old tap from old gasket material, silicone and lime scale – the new tap must sit on a clean and flat surface.

Installation of a new Schütte tap – detailed procedure

Step 1 – Preparation of the new tap and checking the contents of the package

Unpack the tap and check what the package contains. Standard Schütte tap accessories include: a mounting nut, a washer (rubber or metal), flexible hoses (not always), a short-term warranty card and an installation manual. If the package contains an instruction leaflet, read it – the manufacturer sometimes provides specific recommendations for the model (e.g. maximum tightening torque of the nut).

Step 2 – Installing the sealing washer

Before inserting the tap into the hole in the sink, slide the rubber sealing washer onto the flange part of the tap – the part that sits on the top surface of the sink. This washer prevents water from entering between the tap and the sink and also protects the porcelain from scratches. If the washer is not part of the package and the tap is directly on the surface without ceramic (e.g. corner mounting), use sanitary silicone around the flange part before placing it.

Important: The rubber washer is held in place by friction when the sink is dry. For glass or stone surfaces (where there is a higher risk of micro-movement), I recommend a combination of the washer and a thin strip of transparent sanitary silicone. In such cases, you must wait for the silicone to cure (usually 12–24 hours) before turning on the water.

Step 3 – Inserting the Faucet into the Opening

Insert the faucet from top to bottom through the opening in the sink. Make sure the spout is pointing in the correct direction (directly into the center of the sink or countertop). Most sink faucets have only one mounting hole (so-called single-hole), while some older installations have triple-hole (three holes – central for the faucet body, side for Coldwater/Warmwater control). The procedure is the same, only with more attention to levelness and symmetry.

Step 4 – Tightening the Mounting Nut from Below

From underneath (lie under the sink or use a flashlight to illuminate the area), slide onto the faucet stem in order: a metal washer and then the mounting nut. Tighten the nut with a faucet wrench to the right (viewed from below) – that is, clockwise. The tightening force is important: achieve a firm grip so that the faucet does not move when turning the handle, but do not over-tighten – plastic nuts can break, porcelain sink can crack. Practical tip: tighten by hand until it stops, then give it an additional ¼ turn with the wrench.

Check from above to ensure the faucet is straight and the sealing is evenly compressed around the entire perimeter. If you see a gap on one side, adjust the position and tighten again.

Step 5 – Connecting the Flexible Hoses

The flexible hoses connect the angle valve (supply from the wall) to the faucet inlet. Each flexible hose has a threaded connection on both ends – typically G3/8" (for angle valves with external G3/8" thread) or G1/2" (for direct connection to the pipe). Before tightening, check that each flexible hose has a rubber sealing ring (O-ring or flat gasket) – without it, the connection will leak regardless of how tightly it is tightened.

Correct connection:

Hot water (T/red or left) – usually the left inlet when viewed from the front of the faucet. Some Schütte faucets have the inlet marked with a symbol or letter. If you are unsure, look at the bottom of the faucet – most have a relief marking or color coding.
Cold water (S/blue or right) – the right inlet.

Screw the flexible hoses by hand until they stop, then tighten with an adjustable wrench. Again, the rule applies: a firm grip, not over-tightening. A brass nut on a brass thread has no tolerance for over-tightening – the thread will be damaged and will not seal even with strong tightening.

Teflon tape is not used on flexible hoses – these connections are sealed with rubber washers, not with the thread. PTFE tape is used only on metal threaded connections without rubber sealing (typically on rigid connections to the pipe or on tub faucets with rigid supply).

Step 6 – Connecting the Drain (only for sinks with click-clack or cable drain)

Some Schütte faucets have an integrated rod for controlling the click-clack drain plug. If this is your case, during faucet installation insert the rod through the side hole in the faucet body and connect the cable mechanism to the drain plug according to the attached instructions. It is a simple mechanism, but it requires that the trap and drain plug are already in place before the final tightening of the faucet – otherwise you will not be able to reach the cable.

Special case: installation of Schütte tub and wall-mounted faucets

Tub and wall-mounted faucets differ from sink faucets mainly in the way they are mounted. Instead of a passage hole in the countertop, they are mounted directly into the wall, into prepared wall valves (connection valves) embedded inside the wall.

Mounting to prepared wall valves

Wall valves (threaded inlets with G1/2" thread) must be embedded in the wall before tiling. Their position and spacing must match the faucet – for tub faucets, it is typically a spacing of 150 mm. The faucet is directly screwed onto these inlets through decorative escutcheons. Before tightening, wind PTFE tape (about 10–15 turns) in the direction of the thread onto the wall valve – sealing here is done with tape, not with rubber.

Setting the height and horizontal alignment

The wall-mounted faucet must be horizontal and both inlets symmetrical. Installation height of the tub faucet: 100–120 cm from the floor is the ergonomic standard; a shower faucet is usually mounted at a height of 100–110 cm for the shower head, with the hose outlet at the same or slightly lower height. If the tub faucet is installed by a company before tiling, insist on precise documentation of the wall valve positions – after tiling, correction is not possible.

Leak test – the most important step

This is the step where it is decided whether you have done a good job or will spend the next hour fixing it. Proceed methodically:

Before opening the supply: visually check all connections – flexible hoses, angle valves, supply to the faucet. Everything must be firmly tightened.
Open the angle valves slowly – not all at once, but gradually. Watch for any drops appearing.
Leave the supply open, but keep the faucet closed (lever in the "off" position) – in this state, the full operating pressure is on the connections and any leaks will appear immediately.
Check each connection with a dry finger – visual inspection can miss micro-drops, touch is more reliable.
Open the faucet – both hot and cold side. Check the water temperature (correct connection of hot and cold).
Check the rotation of the spout (for faucets with a swivel spout) – movement must be smooth, without resistance and without dripping from the joint.

If you notice dripping at the flexible hose connection: shut off the water supply, tighten the nut an additional ¼ turn, then open it again and check. If dripping persists, the problem is likely a damaged or missing gasket – unscrew, inspect, and replace the gasket. For more information on this issue, see the article Common Schütte tap faults – dripping, stiff lever, weak pressure.

Setting the maximum temperature and temperature limiter

Most modern single-lever Schütte taps are equipped with an internal maximum temperature limiter (adjustable stop position of the lever). For safety reasons – especially if there are children in the household – I recommend setting the limiter so that the maximum lever position does not allow water warmer than 38–42 °C. Procedure:

Remove the lever cap (usually a colored wheel or plastic cover on top, held by friction or a small screw).
Under the cap is a temperature stop mechanism (a plastic ring with holes or protrusions). By rotating the ring, you limit the maximum lever position on the hot water side.
Reattach the cap and check the function.

If you are unsure about the exact procedure for your model, this detail is always described in the included manual. Alternatively, refer to the article Replacing seals and cartridges in Schütte taps – procedure and tips, where disassembling the lever part is described in detail.

Installation of a kitchen tap – specifics

Kitchen taps are structurally similar to bathroom taps, but usually have a longer neck and greater reach (height above the sink is important for comfortable dishwashing). Installation is identical to that of a bathroom tap, with the following differences:

Kitchen sinks have a flange hole in the countertop – usually 35 mm in diameter, but may vary with stone or laminate countertops. Always verify this before ordering the tap.
With kitchen taps that have a pull-out sprayer (Pull-out), the hose, valve, and weight are included in the package – the weight is attached to the hose under the sink and ensures automatic winding. Do not forget the weight – without it, the hose is unmanageable.
The standard height of a kitchen tap spout is 200–250 mm for standard sinks, while deep sinks (200 mm or more) require a tap with a spout of at least 250–300 mm.

Common installation mistakes and how to avoid them

From practice – these are the mistakes I have repeatedly seen:

Forgetting the gasket in the flexible hose connection – the hose is sealed with rubber, not with the thread. Without the rubber gasket, the connection will leak even after strong tightening.
Mixing up hot and cold water – seems like a small thing, but the cartridge in a single-lever tap is designed so that moving the lever to the left should release hot water. If you have it mixed up, the lever will work in the opposite direction. Solution: unscrew both hoses and swap them.
The tap is installed crooked – cause: the gasket was not evenly seated, or the tap rotated during tightening. Solution: slightly loosen the nut, align the tap, and tighten again.
Over-tightening the installation nut – can lead to cracking of the plastic nut or porcelain. A tap wrench is long – with a ½ grip, it has a huge lever effect. Handle with care.
Leaving the old flexible hose in place – flexible hoses have a lifespan of 5–10 years. If you are replacing the tap and the hoses are old, replace them as well. Aging of the rubber inside the hose is only visible after cutting it open.
Forgetting the PTFE tape for wall-mounted taps – a metal thread without PTFE tape or sealing compound will not seal, period.

Installation of a Schütte tap for a thermostatic shower

Thermostatic Schütte taps are a technically more complex category. They contain a thermostatic valve (wax thermostat), which automatically maintains the set water temperature regardless of pressure or temperature fluctuations in the pipes. The installation itself is analogous to wall-mounted taps, with one essential difference:

A thermostatic tap requires a maximum pressure ratio of 1:5 between hot and cold water. If the pressure of the hot water is significantly lower than that of the cold water (e.g., with a boiler with low pressure), the thermostat will not regulate properly. Before installing a thermostatic tap, always check the operating pressure in the pipes – the standard for Schütte taps is 0.5–5 bar. Values outside this range may lead to malfunction of the thermostatic valve or its premature wear.

After installation – the first days of operation and what to watch for

A new tap deserves some attention during the first week. Check the connections after 24 hours of operation – the temperature of the water causes slight expansion of the materials, which can reveal a joint that was sealing with cold water but starts dripping with hot water. This is a common occurrence, and the solution is simple: tighten by half a turn.

During the first month, monitor the water temperature – you will verify that the connection of hot and cold water is correct and that the temperature limiter is functioning as expected. For more information on caring for your tap, see the article Cleaning and maintenance of Schütte taps for long life – regular maintenance extends the lifespan of the tap to 10–15 years even with regular household use.

Common questions (FAQ)

Do I always have to turn off the water for the entire apartment when replacing a tap?

Not necessarily – if you have functional shut-off valves directly under the sink (and most modern installations do), it is enough to close just these valves. Closing the main shut-off is necessary only if the shut-off valves are missing, not working, or you are replacing them along with the tap. Always verify that the shut-off valves are sealing properly before starting.

Can I replace a tap without a special tap wrench?

Not for most bathroom taps – the space under the sink is too tight for a regular wrench. A tap wrench (a long bar wrench with a square or flat head) can be purchased at any larger hardware store for about 5–10 euros. It is a one-time investment that will save you hours of frustration. An exception are freestanding sinks or wall-mounted models with good access to the bottom – in these cases, you can sometimes manage with regular pliers.

Why is the tap dripping from the spout when it is closed after installation?

The most common cause is a dirty or damaged cartridge. If it is a new tap, it may be due to debris in the pipes that settled on the cartridge during the first filling. Solution: disassemble the lever and cartridge, clean the mechanism, and reassemble. If the problem persists, it may be a manufacturing defect in the cartridge – contact the seller. A detailed procedure can be found in the article Replacing seals and cartridges in Schütte taps – procedure and tips.

What is the difference in installation between a single-lever and a double-lever tap?

A single-lever tap has one central hole and one rod – installation is simpler and faster. A double-lever tap (with two separate taps for hot and cold water) is installed into three holes – a central hole for the spout and two side holes for the taps. The distance between the side holes is standard at 100 mm. The advantage of a double-lever tap is that it does not rely on a cartridge mechanism and is easier to repair. For more information on choosing, see the article Single-lever vs. double-lever taps – which is the better choice.

How long does the entire installation of a bathroom tap take?

For the first installation and without complications (functional shut-off valves, the correct tap for the given hole, necessary tools at hand): 20–40 minutes. An experienced plumber can do it in 15 minutes. Complications add time – corroded connections, missing tap wrench, incorrect size of flexible hoses. If you are replacing a tap for the first time and are unsure about any step, better set aside the whole morning – a slow process is better than a rushed mistake.

Is it necessary to apply PTFE tape to the flexible hose connections?

No. Flexible hoses have rubber gaskets (O-rings or flat rubber seals built into the nut) on both ends. PTFE tape on these connections is not helpful – in fact, it can prevent the rubber gasket from seating properly and make the connection less tight. Use PTFE tape only on metal threaded connections without an integrated rubber gasket – typically for bath taps connected directly to wall pipes.

Conclusion

Installation of a Schütte bathroom faucet is not rocket science, but it is also not a job where you can improvise at every step. The key is proper preparation – the appropriate tools (a basin wrench is mandatory), verifying the dimensions before purchasing the faucet, and a thorough leak test after installation. If you are still in the stage of choosing a faucet, I recommend reading the article How to choose a Schütte bathroom faucet – what to pay attention to, or What type of Schütte faucet is suitable for your bathroom – choosing the right model will save you complications during installation and reduce maintenance costs in the future. A complete range of faucets with detailed technical parameters can be found on the page Schütte bathroom faucets at atria.sk.

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