Step-by-step installation of the Opera water tap

Installation of the Opera tap – step-by-step guide for DIY enthusiasts and experienced plumbers

Replacing or installing a new tap is a task that with a bit of patience and the right approach can be handled by any skilled DIY enthusiast. At the same time, it is a job where things can easily go wrong – not only due to water leakage, but also due to damage to the tap itself or the connecting pipes. If you have chosen the Opera tap, you have a good foundation: these taps are designed to make installation as simple and standardized as possible. Despite this, in practice, I often come across dozens of cases where the customer has damaged the tap by tightening it incorrectly, blocked the water supply, or simply forgot to check the types of connections before installation.

This guide will walk you through the entire process – from preparing the tools and checking the old plumbing, through the actual installation of the tap, to starting it up, testing and initial settings. We will also cover different types of installation: wall-mounted, countertop (into a sink or bathtub), and wall-mounted taps. If you are still considering which type of tap to choose, read the article How to choose Opera taps for your bathroom and kitchen first, where you will find an overview of the different categories.

What you will need: tools and materials before starting the installation

Good preparation saves time and nerves. Before you turn off the water supply, prepare the following:

• Adjustable wrench (ideally two – one for the connection, the other for holding)
• Special key for the mounting nut – in the case of countertop taps, the opening in the countertop or sink is very narrow, a standard key won't fit; Opera taps are supplied with this key or it is available as an accessory
• PTFE sealing tape (Teflon) – standard width 12 mm, length at least 5–10 m; don't skimp on this
• Silicone sealant (sanitary, non-acetic) – especially when mounting the tap on the edge of a bathtub or into a sink
• Bucket and cloth – residual water in the supply hoses otherwise spills onto the floor
• Flashlight or headlamp – it's dark under the sink, behind the bathtub, and in the kitchen cabinet
• Disposable rubber gloves – rusty water, old sealant and corroded bearings are unpleasant to touch
• Plastic or rubber mat (if not included in the package) – prevents scratching the surface of the sink or countertop
• Digital spirit level or plumb bob – to ensure the tap is not tilted

Before you start, carefully read the instructions included with each Opera tap. The manufacturer provides the maximum tightening torque for the nuts, the recommended water pressure and any specific features of the model in the instructions. At the same time, check the dimensions – the thickness of the countertop or edge of the fixture through which the tap will pass. More about dimensions and types of connections can be found in the article Dimensions and connections of Opera taps: what to check before purchase.

Closing the water supply and draining the remaining water

This is the step where customers most often hesitate. Some try to do it "quickly", without closing the water and relying on the fact that it's enough to unscrew it quickly. It doesn't end well – especially if the pressure in the pipes is above 3 bar, which is very common in apartment buildings.

The correct procedure:

1. Close the stop valves under the sink (for each supply – hot and cold water). If there are no stop valves, close the main shut-off valve of the apartment or house.
2. Open the old tap fully – this will release the pressure in the supply hoses and allow the remaining water to drain into the bucket.
3. Place the bucket under the point where the hoses will be disconnected.
4. Unscrew the supply hoses from the stop valves (if you are replacing them, which I recommend with every tap replacement).

Supply hoses (flexible connections) are replaced preventively after 5–8 years of use, even if they look fine. The internal braiding corrodes and a hose rupture under pressure can cause extensive damage. Opera taps are supplied either without hoses (just the tap) or with a set of connections – check the contents of the package.

Removal of the old faucet

If you are replacing an existing faucet, you must first remove the old one. The most complicated situation arises with faucets that have been installed for many years – a corroded mounting nut under the sink can sometimes not be loosened even with maximum effort. In such a case, use a penetrating oil (WD-40 or similar), let it sit for 10–15 minutes, and then try again. Never use forceful methods that could damage the porcelain sink.

Removal procedure:

1. Unscrew the supply hoses from the body of the faucet (from below, at the inlet nozzles).
2. Using a special mounting wrench, unscrew the mounting nut – usually plastic or brass – located under the sink opening.
3. Lift the faucet out of the opening. With faucets that have a sealing ring or silicone, you may encounter resistance – carefully separate the seal using a flat scraper.
4. Clean the surface of the sink or countertop from old sealing material, silicone residue, and limescale.

If it is a wall-mounted faucet next to the bathtub (two-hole mounting) or a wall-mounted faucet, the removal procedure differs – we will describe these below for the respective mounting variant.

Installation of the Opera sink faucet (hole mounting, one hole)

This is the most common type of mounting – a single-lever faucet through the central hole in the sink or in the countertop. The standard hole diameter is 35 mm, but Opera faucets can also be sized for 32 mm or 38 mm – so always measure before purchasing.

Detailed installation procedure:

1. Preparation of the hole: Check that the hole in the sink is clean and free of sharp edges. If you have just replaced the sink, the hole should already be exactly 35 mm in diameter. For a countertop (work surface), it may be necessary to drill the hole – use a hole saw with a pilot drill.
2. Mounting the sealing washer: Most Opera faucets include a rubber or silicone washer in the packaging. Place it on the lower part of the faucet body (the part that will face downward). If you want an absolutely watertight connection, you can lightly apply a sanitary silicone to the bottom of the washer – but be careful to use only a small amount so it does not squeeze out and stain the white glaze.
3. Inserting the faucet through the hole: Insert the body of the faucet (including the connections) into the hole from above. Ensure the correct orientation – the spout must point directly into the sink drain.
4. Mounting the washer and nut from below: Under the sink, place the metal washer and then the mounting nut (usually plastic or brass). Tighten the nut by hand until you feel resistance.
5. Aligning the faucet: Before final tightening, adjust the faucet so that the spout points directly into the center of the drain and the lever has equal space on both sides. Use a spirit level if the faucet is a taller model with a pronounced body.
6. Tightening the mounting nut: Use a mounting wrench (the thin one with a long handle). Tighten evenly, without sudden movements. The recommended tightening torque is usually 8–12 Nm – that is as much as you can manage with one hand using a medium-length wrench. NEVER tighten with a force bar or extension – a cracked ceramic sink is an expensive repair.
7. Connecting the supply hoses: Screw the hoses by hand (sealing rings are usually rubber and sufficient without tape), then tighten them an additional ¾ turn with a spanner. For a G½" thread, this is standard. Never over-tighten – a cracked hose fitting is an unnecessary expense.
8. Connecting the hoses to the angle valves: The same procedure – by hand + ¾ turn with a spanner. Check that the hot water (red hose or marking) goes to the right angle valve (hot water on the right = standard in the EU).

Installation of a two-hole Opera faucet next to the bathtub or in the kitchen

Wall-mounted faucets with two inlet holes (standard spacing is 150 mm, but also 120 mm and 180 mm – always verify before purchasing) require a bit more planning. More information about spacing and connection types can be found in the article Dimensions and connections of Opera faucets: what to check before purchasing.

The procedure is similar, but with a few differences:

• Each inlet is mounted separately through its own hole and sealed with its own nut.
• Before tightening, you must ensure that both inlets are aligned and the faucet stands straight – a spirit level is especially important here.
• With bathtub faucets with a long hose for the hand shower, make sure the check valve (if included) is correctly oriented.
• Spacing of 150 mm is the European standard, but older residential cores in panel buildings from the 80s may have 130 mm or even 160 mm – measure physically, do not estimate.

Installation of a wall-mounted Opera faucet

Wall-mounted faucets (installed directly into the wall) are common with showers, bathtubs, and sinks without countertops. This type of mounting is technically more complex, as the water supply is embedded in the wall and its position is fixed. Before plastering, a mounting box (installation box) is always installed, which fixes the position of the supply and protects the threads during construction work.

Key steps for wall-mounted installation:

1. Check the position of the embedded water supply – the height from the floor and the spacing must match exactly with the Opera faucet you have chosen.
2. Unscrew the cover plates (escutcheons) from the supply – under them are the threads to which the faucet is directly screwed.
3. Wind 6–8 layers of PTFE tape in the direction of the thread (i.e., in the direction you will be screwing the faucet in).
4. Screw the faucet by hand, then tighten with a wrench. Usually, 1.5 to 2 turns after manual installation are sufficient – more is not necessary.
5. Mount the escutcheons so that they cover the transition hole in the wall and sit parallel to the surface of the wall.
6. Adjust the spout – on most wall-mounted Opera faucets, the spout is adjustable by turning; set it to the desired position and tighten the fixing screw on the spout.

Important note: if the threaded inlets in the wall are rotating freely (poorly secured), immediately stop the installation and contact a plumber. Sealing such a connection later may lead to a tilted faucet and a leak in the wall.

Initial water flow and sealing check

After the complete installation, the key phase follows – turning on the water and a visual check. Don't make the mistake of opening the angle valve fully right from the start. Proceed as follows:

1. Open the angle valve only a quarter of a turn. Listen – if you hear hissing or dripping, immediately close it and find the leak location.
2. If everything is quiet, open the valve halfway, then fully.
3. Open the Opera faucet and let the water run for 30 seconds – this flushes the pipes from dirt and any remaining sealing tape.
4. Close the faucet and dry all connections with a dry cloth. Shine a flashlight and check each connection: angle valve–hose, hose–faucet, and the area around the mounting nut.
5. Let the system stand for 5 minutes and repeat the check.

In practice, leaks most often occur at the hose–angle valve connection, where the rubber gasket was of poor quality or not properly centered. In such a case, it is sufficient to turn off the water, unscrew the hose, center the gasket, and tighten it another quarter turn.

Adjusting the aerator and flow restrictor

Each Opera faucet comes with an aerator head (aerator) on the outlet. The aerator serves two functions: it softens the water flow and can also limit the flow. A standard aerator has a flow rate of 8–12 liters per minute at 3 bar. Eco versions limit the flow to 4–6 liters per minute – which is ideal, for example, for a bathroom sink faucet.

The aerator is threaded (standard M22 external or M24 external) and can be easily replaced or cleaned. If you have hard water, the aerator can clog with limescale deposits within 3–6 months. The procedure for cleaning and replacing the aerator can be found in the article Cleaning and maintenance of Opera faucets for longer lifespan.

After installation, unscrew the aerator, rinse it with water, check the mesh, and screw it back in. Never tighten the aerator with pliers without protection – the outlet surface can easily be scratched. Use a cloth or rubber washer.

Common installation errors and how to avoid them

From dozens of customer cases where I later resolved the resulting problem, I have selected the most common ones:

• Over-tightening the mounting nut – the most common cause of ceramic cracking. The nut must only securely fix the faucet, not crush the gasket.
• Reversed inlets (hot/cold) – it looks silly, but it happens in practice. Cold water on the right = cold faucet installed in the wrong direction.
• Forgotten PTFE tape on the wall inlet – threaded connections without PTFE tape never seal reliably with silicone alone.
• Installation without turning off the water – trivial, but it still happens.
• Uncontrolled position of the gasket in the hose – the rubber ring rotates sideways during tightening, causing a leak.
• Ignoring the maximum pressure – Opera faucets are designed for 0.5–5 bar. If the pressure in the network is higher, a pressure-reducing valve is necessary.
• Forgotten transport lock on the cartridge – some models have a plastic safety lock on the cartridge for transport; if you don't remove it, the lever will be stuck.

Special situation: installation of the thermostatic Opera faucet

Thermostatic Opera faucets have an additional thermostatic cartridge that maintains the set water temperature regardless of pressure fluctuations in the network. The installation procedure is the same as for a standard faucet, but with two important differences:

• Correct inlet direction – the thermostat must have hot water on the correct side (usually the left inlet = hot, right = cold; refer to the specific model instructions).
• Setting the maximum temperature – after installation, set the thermostat's safety stop to 38–40 °C if the faucet will be used by a child. The procedure depends on the specific model, and the instructions are always included in the packaging.

Thermostatic taps Opera are also more sensitive to impurities in the supply lines – always thoroughly flush the pipes before connecting. For more information on choosing between a single-lever and thermostatic tap, see the article Single-lever vs. two-handle tap Opera: which one to choose.

When to call a professional and when DIY installation is fine

DIY installation of the Opera tap is fine in the following cases:

• standard replacement of a sink, basin or freestanding bath tap (one or two holes, supply lines are angle valves)
• replacement of a wall-mounted tap, where the built-in installation box is in good condition and the threads are functional

Call a professional plumber in the following cases:

• loose or damaged threads in the wall
• non-functional angle valves (they do not shut off the water or leak)
• first-time installation into new pipe systems (copper or plastic piping)
• need to reposition the supply lines (changing the spacing)
• installation of a thermostatic tap in combination with floor heating boxes or central thermostats

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Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Do I need to use PTFE tape even with rubber seals on the hoses?

No. Flexible connecting hoses that are screwed onto the angle valve and the tap usually have a built-in rubber sealing ring. PTFE tape is not needed for such a connection – on the contrary, it can worsen the seal if the ring cannot seat properly. Use PTFE tape exclusively for conical metal threaded connections (e.g., supply lines in the wall, threaded shut-off valves, etc.).

What kind of wrench do I need for the mounting nut under the sink?

You need a so-called basin wrench or a special mounting wrench for fixtures (Basin Wrench). This is a tool with a long handle and a swiveling jaw that fits into the narrow gap under the sink. Opera taps sometimes include this tool directly in the packaging – check the contents. If not, you can buy it at any larger hardware store for 5–15 euros. Without it, the nut in the narrow space behind the cabinet cannot be properly tightened.

How many turns of PTFE tape are correct for a wall-mounted tap?

The recommended number is 6–10 layers wound in the direction of the thread (i.e., the direction in which you will screw in the tap). Too few layers may cause a leak, while too many may cause the outlet direction of the tap to be incorrect (the tap may end up being screwed in at the wrong position). Practical tip: wind on 7 layers, screw in the tap – if it is not properly aligned, unscrew it and add 1–2 more layers.

Why is my Opera tap dripping from the outlet when it is closed after installation?

The most common cause is dirt trapped in the cartridge when the water is turned on – small impurities from the pipe system get caught in the cartridge seal and prevent it from fully closing. Solution: open the tap fully for a few seconds to flush out the impurities, then close it. If the problem persists, it is possible that the cartridge was damaged during installation due to excessive force or pressure. For more information on solving this issue, see the article Common Opera tap problems: dripping, low pressure, corrosion.

Can I connect an Opera tap to ¾" angle valve supply lines using a ½" hose?

Yes, this is a common combination. Flexible connecting hoses are typically manufactured with different thread combinations on each end – for example, ½" on the tap side and ¾" on the angle valve side. Always check when ordering what thread the angle valve has (usually ¾" external) and what inlet the Opera tap has (usually ½" internal). Both threads are usually clearly marked on hose packages.

Is it necessary to have an installer check the Opera tap after installation?

Legally, this is not required at the apartment level (unlike for gas appliances). Nevertheless, if you are unsure about the quality of the seal or have any doubts, having a professional plumber perform an initial check is a cheap precaution against water damage – a leak can destroy floor coverings, furniture, and even your neighbor’s ceiling within a few hours. After installation, regularly – at least once every six months – visually inspect all connections under the sink.

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Conclusion: installing an Opera tap is manageable if done correctly

Installing an Opera tap is not rocket science, but it is a job where the details matter. Proper sealing, even tightening, and checking the result – these are the things that distinguish a reliable installation from one you will return to in a month with a stack of paper towels and a bucket. At the same time, Opera taps are designed with installation simplicity in mind – standardized dimensions, clear instructions, and complete accessories in the packaging are advantages you will appreciate during the work.

If you are still in the phase of choosing the right model, take a look at the full range at atria.sk/opera/ and in case of questions about selection, refer to the article How to choose Opera taps for your bathroom and kitchen. And if something unexpected appears after installation – dripping, corrosion, or pressure drop – solutions can be found in the article Replacing the seal and cartridge of an Opera tap or Common Opera tap problems: dripping, low pressure, corrosion.

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