Maintenance and service of a home water system: what and how often to check?

Maintenance and service of a home water supply system: what and how often to check?

A home water supply system is an invisible part of the infrastructure for many homeowners of houses, chalets or gardens – as long as it works, no one needs to care about it. Problems arise when it starts behaving strangely: pressure fluctuates, the pump runs continuously, less water flows from the tap or no water at all. In most cases, these are issues that could have been avoided with regular and simple maintenance. From experience, I know that people deal with water supply system service only when it fails – and precisely at that moment, the repair is more expensive, complicated and sometimes even requires replacing the entire unit.

This article is a comprehensive guide for anyone who wants to properly maintain their water supply system. We will go through which parts of the system need to be checked, at what intervals, what specific values are normal and which indicate a problem, and also how to perform basic service tasks yourself. If you are still choosing or installing a system, also check out other articles in our Knowledge Center – especially Installation of a home water supply system with a submersible pump step by step and Pressure tank in a home water supply system: what it does and how to set it up?.

Why is regular maintenance of the water supply system so important?

A home water supply system operates under much more demanding conditions than it might seem at first glance. A submersible pump is submerged in water, where it is exposed to the chemical effects of minerals, sand, silt and biological substances. A pressure switch controls switching hundreds of times a day. A pressure tank cyclically changes the volume of air and water. Each of these components has its own lifespan and each gradually wears out.

If you neglect maintenance, the following may happen: the membrane pressure tank loses air, the pump switches every few seconds, the bearings overheat and the pump is destroyed within a few weeks. Or: the pressure switch gets clogged with limescale, stops correctly evaluating the pressure, and the pump either does not start or runs continuously. Both are scenarios I have seen many times in customer cases – and in each case, it turned out that it would have been enough to spend an hour or two on the system once a year to avoid the problems.

It is not only about protecting the equipment but also about water quality. A well or borehole is not a static source – the water composition changes throughout the year, the water levels change, and surface water may penetrate. Regular inspection will alert you to changes before they manifest as health issues.

Service intervals: what to do monthly, annually and every 5 years

Proper maintenance of a water supply system is not a one-time task, but a system of regular activities. These can be divided into three time horizons:

Monthly inspection (10–15 minutes)

• Visual inspection of the entire visible equipment – look at the pressure tank, manifold, pressure switch and accessible parts of the piping. You are looking for moisture, corrosion, leaks or mechanical damage.
• Pressure in the pressure tank – using the pressure gauge, check that the pressure when the pump is off (after draining the water until the pump does not switch on) corresponds to the set value. Typically, it is 1.5–2.0 bar for a 50-liter tank. If the pressure is significantly different, something is wrong.
• Pump sound – when the pump is switched on, notice whether it makes unusual sounds (grinding, vibrations, resonance). A change in sound is often the first sign of problems with bearings or cavitation.
• Switching frequency – if you notice that the pump switches too often (e.g., every 20–30 seconds even without significant draw-off), it is likely that the membrane in the pressure tank is damaged or air has escaped from the gas chamber.

Semi-annual inspection (30–60 minutes)

• Check the pre-charge pressure in the pressure tank – this is the most important semi-annual task. Close the main valve, drain the water from the system, then measure the air pressure in the tank using a tire pressure gauge. The correct value is usually 0.2–0.5 bar below the switching pressure. For a set pump switching ON=1.5 bar / OFF=3.0 bar, the air pressure should be 1.3–1.5 bar. If it is lower, find the leak (damaged valve, cracked tank housing) or simply add air.
• Cleaning of the suction filter / inlet filter – if you have a mesh filter installed before or after the pump, clean the mesh. A clogged filter causes a drop in pressure and performance.
• Condition of the electrical part – check the circuit breaker, terminal block and cable gland. You are looking for corrosion of the terminals, loose connections, or burn marks.

Annual inspection (2–4 hours, ideally in spring)

• Removing and visually inspecting the pump – for submersible pumps, this means removing the pump from the well or borehole, checking the condition of the body, suction, cable gland and check valve. This is also a good opportunity to clean the pump of deposits.
• Check the check valve – this valve prevents backflow of water when the pump is stopped. If it is damaged, the pump will lose pressure after each stop and will have to refill the entire system from scratch, leading to excessive switching.
• Check the pressure switch – remove the cover and visually inspect the contacts. Replace burned or oxidized contacts. Verify the setting of the switching and off pressure values using a pressure gauge.
• Water analysis – once a year, have a basic water analysis done from the source (pH, hardness, nitrates, iron, manganese, coliform bacteria). If you use the water for drinking, this is not an optional task. Read more in the article Potable water from a well through a water supply system: what the system and pump must meet?
• Inspection of the well or borehole – look into the well (using a flashlight or endoscope), check the condition of the walls, presence of silt or biological coating, and water level.

Long-term maintenance (every 5–10 years)

• Membrane replacement in the pressure tank – membrane tanks have a lifespan of 5–10 years depending on usage intensity and water quality. If the tank loses air pressure even after refilling, the membrane is likely cracked.
• Comprehensive repair or pump replacement – submersible pumps typically operate without repair for 8–15 years, depending on water quality and load. After 10 years, it is advisable to perform professional servicing (bearing replacement, sealing, motor inspection).
• Well disinfection – every 5–7 years, or after floods or contamination, disinfect the well with a chlorine solution according to the procedures set by hygiene regulations.
• Inspection and revision of electrical installation – especially for older installations.

How to correctly check the pressure tank

The pressure tank is the heart of every water supply system – and also the most common source of problems. If you are wondering how it works and what it is used for, read our separate article Pressure tank in a home water supply system: what it is used for and how to set it up? Here we focus on the specific procedure for checking and adjusting it.

Measuring the pre-charge pressure step by step

1. Turn off the pump – best via the circuit breaker or main switch.
2. Open a tap somewhere in the house or garden and let the water drain from the system until it stops flowing (pressure in the pipes drops to zero).
3. Locate the valve on the pressure tank – usually on one end or the bottom, it looks like a standard car valve.
4. Attach a pressure gauge (car tire pressure gauge) and read the value. This pressure is the pre-charge pressure of the air chamber.
5. Compare with the reference value: the pre-charge pressure should be 0.2–0.5 bar below the switching pressure (the ON value on the pressure switch). If your switching pressure is set to ON=1.5 bar / OFF=3.0 bar, the pre-charge pressure should be 1.2–1.3 bar.
6. Adjust the pressure as needed via the valve – just like with a car tire.
7. Turn the pump back on and verify the setting by measuring on the system pressure gauge.

If the pre-charge pressure drops again within a few weeks after adjustment, it means either a leaking valve (replace the valve insert with an automotive one – they are mutually compatible) or a cracked tank body or damaged membrane. The membrane and tank body need to be replaced.

Warning: if water leaks out of the valve when measuring the pre-charge pressure, the membrane is definitely damaged. The air and water chambers have mixed – the tank is non-functional and needs to be replaced.

Inspection and adjustment of the pressure switch

The pressure switch is an electromechanical device that turns the pump on and off according to the pressure in the system. It is adjusted using two screws under the cover: one sets the switching pressure (ON), the other sets the difference between ON and OFF (differential). A typical setting is ON=1.5 bar, OFF=3.0 bar. Some newer switches have electronic settings, but the principle remains the same.

To inspect the pressure switch, proceed as follows:

• Determine the current setting – monitor the pressure gauge to see at what pressure the pump turns on (ON) and at what pressure it turns off (OFF). Compare with the setting on the switch.
• Check the cleanliness of the membrane chamber of the switch – limescale and deposits can cause the membrane to jam and lead to incorrect switching. Gently clean the membrane with water or a weak citric acid solution.
• Check the electrical contacts – oxidized or burned contacts cause poor contact, sparking, and eventually faults. If there is significant damage, replace the entire switch – it is not expensive.
• Verify tightness – the pressure switch has a membrane that should be airtight. If you notice moisture around the switch, replace it.

Service of the submersible pump: what to check and when to remove the pump

The submersible pump is a component that requires the most attention and at the same time is serviced least frequently (as access is complicated due to the depth of the well or borehole). Therefore, it is important to make the most of every opportunity to lift it out.

You should pull out and inspect the pump when:

• It makes unusual noises (grinding, humming, resonance)
• Its performance visibly drops without any other obvious reason
• It no longer maintains pressure correctly
• More than 2 years have passed since the last inspection
• You have had an increased amount of sand or silt in the well or borehole

When pulling it out, check the following:

• Suction and inlet strainer – clean it of silt, sand, and biological deposits. A clogged strainer causes cavitation (which leads to noise and reduced performance).
• Check valve built into the pump body – try pressing it with your hand; it should only move in one direction. If the valve does not close properly, the pump will discharge water back into the well after being turned off, and it will have to refill the pipe each time it starts.
• Cable gland and cable insulation – cracks in the insulation near the gland are a frequent cause of electrical faults in submersible pumps. The cable must not be twisted or mechanically damaged.
• Remaining cable in the well – it must be secured (e.g., with a cable clamp or a mesh), to prevent it from wrapping around the pump and causing mechanical damage during removal or lowering.
• Discharge nozzle and connection to the discharge pipe – check the gasket and connections for leaks.

For specific models from our portfolio – for example, the home water supply with submersible pump 3 SQIBO 0.55 / 50l or the more powerful version SQIBO 0.75 / 50l – the same principles apply, only the pump's performance determines how intensively it works and thus how quickly it wears out under high load.

Well or borehole cleaning and water source inspection

The pump itself is only as good as the water source it draws from. Neglecting the condition of the well or borehole is one of the most common reasons why pumps quickly lose performance or wear out.

For open wells, you should do the following once a year:

• Check the condition of the masonry or concrete casing – cracks and collapses are entry points for surface water and contaminants.
• Remove biological coatings (algae, fungi, bacteria) – gently scrub the walls with a sponge and disinfect.
• Check the water level and its yield – slightly pump out the well and measure the time it takes for the water level to recover. A significant increase in recovery time indicates a decrease in the source's yield.
• Inspect the area around the well – reinforce the surrounding area to prevent rainwater from flowing into the well, and remove nearby manure piles or septic tanks.

With wells, the situation is more complicated because the view into the well is limited. A decrease in well efficiency is indicated by pump cavitation (noise, vibrations), pressure drop, or mud in the water. In such cases, it is advisable to have the well cleaned by a specialist—either through pressure regeneration or mechanical cleaning.

If you plan to use the well for drinking purposes, we recommend models specifically designed for this: for example, Home Water Supply with Submersible Pump 3Ti-20 / 50l – Pressure Tank for Drinking Water from a Well or Borehole, where the system is designed as a whole, including technologies suitable for drinking purposes. Alternatively, for less demanding applications (irrigation, technical water), the Home Water Supply SCR-0,50 / 50l to the Well for Irrigation will suffice.

Water Quality Testing: Analysis and Interpretation of Results

Water testing is an action that people often forget. Water from a well or borehole is not constant—it changes throughout the year and reacts to changes in the surrounding environment (agricultural activity, leaks from septic tanks, precipitation). A basic analysis should include:

Parameter	Unit	Limit for Drinking Water (SR)	Note
pH	–	6.5 – 9.5	Outside the limit causes pipe corrosion
Hardness	mmol/l	up to 3.5 (ideal)	Above 2.5, limescale forms
Nitrates (NO₃)	mg/l	max 50	Signal of agricultural contamination
Iron (Fe)	mg/l	max 0.2	Brown color, deposits in the pump
Manganese (Mn)	mg/l	max 0.05	Black deposits, clogs the pump
Coliform bacteria	CFU/100ml	0	Biological contamination – immediate action required

Have the analysis done at an accredited laboratory (there is at least one in each regional city). The price of a basic drinking water analysis ranges from €60 to €150 depending on the scope. Compare the results with the limits according to the decree of the Ministry of Health of the Slovak Republic No. 247/2017 Coll.

High levels of iron and manganese are very unpleasant for the pump—these minerals settle in the impeller and on the internal surfaces of the pump, reducing its performance and shortening its lifespan. The solution is filtration (an oxidation filter) before the pump or the installation of a filter after the pressure tank.

Winter preparation and maintenance of the water supply during longer downtime

This is a topic that many owners of chalets and garden water supplies address incorrectly. If the water supply or garden irrigation does not freeze during the winter period, it is sufficient to keep them running during winter (possibly insulated in an unheated space). However, if freezing is a risk, you must properly shut down the system:

• Turn off the pump and disconnect the power supply.
• Open all taps on the garden irrigation and near the water supply and let the water drain out.
• Drain the pressure tank—open the drain valve on the tank or remove one connection under the tank and let the water drain out.
• Drain the piping in the technical room—the system should have a drain valve at the lowest point.
• A submersible pump in the well can remain in the well during winter—the water temperature in the well remains above 0 °C even if it is freezing outside. The danger only applies to parts that are above the water level or in an un-insulated space.
• The discharge pipe from the well to the house must be laid below the frost line (at least 1.2 m in the SR, 1.4–1.6 m at higher altitudes) or it must be drained.
• If you do not have a draining option, use air from a compressor—a stream of air will push the water out of the pipe.

Before starting in spring, check whether anything fragile (plastic fittings, manometer, valve body) has been damaged during the winter shutdown. Before starting, fill the system with water and look for leaks before turning on the pump.

Most common symptoms of problems and their diagnosis

From experience, I know that most faults can be detected early if you know what to look for. Here is an overview of the most common symptoms:

Symptom	Possible cause	Solution
Pump switches on every 20–60 seconds	Low pre-pressure in the tank, damaged membrane	Adjust pre-pressure, or replace the membrane/tank
Pump does not start, even though pressure is low	Faulty pressure switch, motor failure, circuit breaker tripped	Check the circuit breaker, switch, and motor (windings)
Noise and vibrations during operation	Cavitation, damaged bearings, sand in the water	Check water level, filters, and replace bearings
Low pressure or low flow	Clogged filter, dirty pump, low water level	Clean the filter, check the pump and water source
Water does not stop (pressure cannot be maintained)	Damaged check valve, leak in the system	Check the check valve and all connections
Water is cloudy or discoloured	Contamination of the well, increased iron/manganese content, biological contamination	Immediate water analysis, well disinfection, installation of a filter

A more detailed guide to diagnosing and solving problems can be found in the article Home water pump not pumping or losing pressure: causes and solutions in our Knowledge Centre.

Maintenance specifics for different types of water systems

Not all water systems are the same, and not every one requires the same service approach. We can distinguish several typical configurations:

Water system with a small submersible pump in a shallow well (up to 20 m)

This is the most common case for rural family homes. The pump operates with relatively low dynamic head, so it is not under maximum load. The main risk is biological contamination (open well) and sand in the water (shallow wells). Maintenance: check the filter every 6 months, disinfect the well once every 2–3 years, and perform a water analysis annually. An example of a suitable system for this configuration is

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