Wall Mounting of an Electric Convector: Step-by-Step Guide
Installing an Electric Convector on a Wall: Step-by-Step Procedure
An electric convector is one of the heating appliances that many people install themselves. And rightly so – it's one of the few cases in electric heating technology where it truly isn't rocket science. Nevertheless, in practice I keep seeing the same mistakes over and over: a convector hanging 3 cm above the floor, screws anchored only into plasterboard without proper anchors, the power cable lying loose behind the appliance, and nobody having considered grounding. The result? At best, a non-functional or unsafe installation; at worst, a damaged appliance, a tripped circuit breaker, or – in extreme cases – a fire.
So I'm not writing this article as marketing material. I'm writing it as a technical guide that will take you through the entire process, from the first measurement on the wall to the first startup – with specific dimensions, values, tools, and things to consider before you pick up the drill.
What You'll Need Before You Start
Before you start drilling, prepare everything you'll need. Nothing ruins a job like having to run to the store halfway through for the right anchors. List of tools and materials:
- Impact drill or hammer drill – for masonry (brick, aerated concrete, concrete), the impact function is essential. For plasterboard, a regular drill is sufficient.
- Spirit level (at least 40 cm) – a convector installed at an angle isn't just an aesthetic problem. It can affect the function of tilted fins and air circulation.
- Pencil, tape measure, plumb line
- Screwdriver (Phillips and flathead)
- Masonry drill bit – diameter according to the anchors used, usually 6–10 mm
- Anchors and screws – always use ones suitable for the wall material. For brick or concrete, standard plastic anchors ∅6 mm with an M4 or M5 screw are sufficient. For plasterboard, use special cavity anchors (molly anchors or self-drilling plasterboard anchors) – a regular plastic anchor won't hold in plasterboard!
- Multimeter – to verify correct wiring and the presence of grounding
- CYKY 3×1.5 mm² cable or according to the convector's output (see below)
- Grounded electrical outlet (Schuko type) or a fixed installation for outputs above 2 kW
- Protective equipment: safety glasses, work gloves
If you're installing a 500 or 1,000 W convector (for example Protherm 500 or Protherm 1000), a standard 230 V / 16 A grounded outlet is sufficient. For outputs of 1,500 W and 2,000 W (such as Protherm 1500 or Protherm 2000), I recommend checking whether the outlet is connected to a separate circuit protected by at least a 10 A – and ideally a 16 A – circuit breaker. You can find more about choosing the right output in the article What output does my electric convector need for my room.
Where and at What Height to Install the Convector: Principles of Correct Positioning
This is a topic where the average user makes the most mistakes. A convector works on the principle of natural convection – cold air enters from below, is heated by the heating element, and the warm air rises. Any physical obstacle (furniture, curtains, a rug reaching up to the appliance) disrupts this principle and reduces heating efficiency, or can lead to overheating.
Installation Height Above the Floor
The standard recommended height of the lower edge of the convector above the floor is 10 to 15 cm. Most manufacturers (including Protherm) specify a minimum height of 10 cm, some even 12 cm. Why? At a smaller distance, the convector starts drawing in dust from the floor much more intensely, the fins become clogged, output decreases, and the risk of overheating increases. In addition, if mounted too low, a rug might come dangerously close – with hot convectors (fin surface reaching 60–80 °C), this is a real risk.
The upper edge of the convector should be at least 20 cm from the window sill if the convector is installed under a window (the classic, and functionally correct, position). The warm air rising disrupts the cold air stream from the window and forms a thermal curtain – this is exactly the principle that makes convectors under windows so effective.
Where on the Wall to Place the Convector
The ideal location is under a window. A window is the weakest spot in terms of heat loss – the most heat escapes through the glass, and cold air flows from the window. A convector under the window creates a thermal curtain that compensates for this loss. If the layout doesn't allow this, choose an exterior wall (one bordering the outside environment), or the wall opposite the window – but the result will be less effective.
What to avoid:
- Installation behind a curtain or drape – a curtain blocks air circulation and may overheat
- Installation in corners where there's no room for circulation
- Installation close to a sofa or bed (the minimum side distance from furniture is usually 30 cm)
- Bathrooms – standard electric convectors are not designed for damp environments unless explicitly certified for IP44 or a higher protection rating
Preparing the Electrical Installation
Before you pick up a drill for the wall, you must have the electrical connection sorted out. This is a step where there's no room for improvisation – the electrical installation must comply with the STN 33 2000 standards and related regulations.
Sizing the Supply Cable and Circuit Breaker
Basic rule: divide the convector's output by the voltage (230 V) to get the current draw. Examples:
| Convector output | Current draw | Min. cable cross-section | Recommended circuit breaker |
|---|---|---|---|
| 500 W | 2.2 A | 1.5 mm² | 10 A (B10) |
| 1,000 W | 4.3 A | 1.5 mm² | 10 A (B10) |
| 1,500 W | 6.5 A | 1.5 mm² | 10 A or 16 A |
| 2,000 W | 8.7 A | 1.5 mm² (2.5 mm² preferred) | 16 A (B16) |
If you plan to connect multiple convectors to a single circuit (e.g. in a holiday home), the total combined output must not exceed the capacity of the given circuit breaker and supply cable. In practice, I recommend a dedicated circuit for each convector of 2 kW and above – this avoids overload issues and also makes it easier to control each room separately.
Important notice: Convectors must always be connected to an outlet with functional grounding (protective earth conductor PE). If your apartment has an old installation without grounding, consult an electrician about its condition before installing the convector. Using a convector without grounding is dangerous and may expose you to the risk of electric shock.
Step-by-Step Installation Procedure
Now we get to the actual installation. I'm assuming you have the electrical connection ready, the convector unpacked, and all the necessary tools.
Step 1 – Unpacking and Checking the Package Contents
Before doing any work, unpack the convector and check its contents. In the package you should find: the appliance itself, a wall mounting bracket (bar), screws and anchors (sometimes included, sometimes not), the operating manual, and possibly a drilling template. Check that the appliance is not mechanically damaged – cracks in the housing, deformations, damaged fins. Don't ignore any of this, because a claim for transport damage must be reported upon receipt.
Step 2 – Marking the Position on the Wall
Hold the mounting bracket (bar) against the wall at the planned height. Use a spirit level to align it horizontally, and mark the drilling hole positions with a pencil. Most convectors have a bracket with two or four anchoring points. The distance between the holes varies depending on the width of the convector – for Protherm appliances it is typically 250 to 400 mm from axis to axis, depending on the specific model.
Practical tip: Before drilling, always check whether there are electrical wires or pipes behind the wall. Use a metal/wire detector – an investment of around €15–20 will pay for itself the very first time you avoid drilling blind.
Step 3 – Drilling and Inserting the Anchors
Drill perpendicular to the wall. For standard masonry (brick, aerated concrete) use a ∅6 mm or ∅8 mm drill bit, and adjust the drilling depth to the length of the anchor – usually 40–50 mm. For concrete, choose an SDS+ drill bit with a carbide tip. For plasterboard, do not use classic anchors – choose cavity anchors (mollies) or self-drilling plasterboard screw anchors ("butterfly" anchors).
After drilling, clean the holes of dust (by blowing or with a small brush) and insert the anchors. For solid masonry, standard nylon anchors are sufficient. For aerated concrete, I recommend special anchors designed for this material – a regular nylon anchor may loosen over time in soft aerated concrete.
Step 4 – Fastening the Mounting Bracket
Position the bracket over the anchor holes, insert the screws, and tighten them gradually. Do not tighten the screws fully at once – first tighten all screws by hand and check that the bracket is still level (use the spirit level again). Only then tighten the screws to the full torque. For standard plastic ∅6 mm anchors and M4×40 screws, a tightening torque of around 2–3 Nm is sufficient – don't force it, or you might tear out the anchor or crack the plaster.
Step 5 – Hanging the Convector on the Bracket
Most wall-mounted convectors work on the principle of a hook bracket – the convector has slots or hooks on the rear housing that catch onto the mounting bar. Position the convector, catch it on the upper edge of the bar, and lower it until it clicks or locks into place. Some models also have a lower retaining screw that prevents the convector from falling out – something you'll appreciate especially in households with children.
After hanging, gently pull the convector away from the wall to verify that it holds securely. A properly attached convector should not move or twist.
Step 6 – Electrical Connection
This is the part where you must be precise and careful. If you're connecting the convector to an existing grounded outlet (Schuko), the procedure is simple: plug the convector's plug into the outlet. Make sure the outlet has functional grounding – you can verify this with a multimeter by measuring the voltage between the phase (L) and the protective pin (PE): the value should be close to 230 V.
If you're dealing with a fixed installation (a cable wired directly, without a plug), this must be performed by an authorized person – an electrician with a valid certification. Under applicable Slovak standards and Decree No. 508/2009 Z.z., a layperson may not carry out the installation of electrical equipment permanently connected to the mains. You are responsible for improper wiring, and in case of fire or injury, the insurance company may refuse to pay out.
Step 7 – Routing the Cable
The supply cable must be routed so that it does not pass through the convector's openings (air inlet/outlet), is not at risk of overheating on hot surfaces, and is mechanically protected. The ideal solution is a cable in a channel (PVC cable trunking 20×10 mm or 25×16 mm) routed along the wall. A cable lying loosely behind the convector, coiled and hidden behind the appliance, is not an acceptable solution – at operating temperatures of 60–80 °C on the rear casing, there is a risk of insulation damage.
The minimum distance of the cable from the convector's surface should be at least 5 cm. If this is not possible, use a cable with a temperature resistance of at least 90 °C (e.g. type CYSY or a special high-current cable rated for higher temperatures).
Step 8 – First Startup and Check
Before the first switch-on, check:
- Whether the convector is firmly attached and does not move
- Whether nothing is blocking the inlet (bottom) or outlet (top) opening of the appliance
- Whether all transport protective films or stickers have been removed from the convector (yes, forgetting this is classic – it smells during the first warm-up)
- Whether the electrical connection is correct and secure
Turn on the convector at maximum output and let it run for 30 minutes. During the first heating cycle, the appliance may give off a slight odor – this is the burning off of manufacturing residues from the heating element, which is normal and will stop after the first operating cycle. Check that the regulator responds correctly – turn the thermostat to minimum, the appliance should switch off, and turn it back on when set to maximum.
Mounting on Wheels Instead of the Wall: When It Makes Sense
Not every convector has to be on the wall. If you need flexibility – for example in a rented apartment, a cottage, or a temporarily heated space – there's an option to use a set of wheels for Tesy, which allows you to move the convector without drilling. You can find more about this alternative in the article Wheels for an electric convector: when they're worth it and what you need to know.
However, you should know that a floor-standing convector (on wheels) is less efficient than a wall-mounted one – when mounted upright, the convector is not fully integrated into the room's heat flow the way it is when mounted under a window. If it's about permanent heating rather than a temporary solution, I always recommend the wall-mounted version.
Common Installation Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Over the years, I've really seen it all. Here are the most common mistakes people make when installing a convector on a wall:
Mistake #1 – Mounting too low. I've seen convectors mounted literally 2–3 cm above the floor. The result? After two weeks, the fins are clogged with dust and dry dirt, output is reduced by an estimated 15–20%, and the operating temperature of the heating element increases. Always at least 10, ideally 15 cm above the floor.
Mistake #2 – Unsecured cable. A cable lying loosely behind the convector overheats, and the insulation may crack. The cable must be in a channel or conduit, protected from heat.
Mistake #3 – Installation without verifying grounding. If you're not an electrician and are unsure whether the outlet is grounded, check it with a multimeter or ask a professional. This isn't unnecessary paranoia – ungrounded outlets are commonly found in apartment buildings from the 1950s–1970s.
Mistake #4 – Wrong anchors for plasterboard. Plasterboard is a very popular material, and convectors in plasterboard rooms are common. A regular nylon anchor will last literally a few weeks in plasterboard, after which it will start to spin and loosen. Always use special plasterboard anchors – mollies, butterfly, or self-drilling screw anchors.
Mistake #5 – Curtain hanging in front of the convector. I see this in almost every bedroom where the convector is under a window and the curtain reaches the floor. The curtain blocks air circulation, the convector overheats, its lifespan shortens, and in extreme cases the fabric could ignite. The curtain must be shorter than the lower edge of the convector, or the issue must be solved differently (curtain hung higher, shorter curtain).
Special Situations: Plasterboard, Basement, Cottage
It's not always standard brick masonry. In practice, I encounter several specific situations:
Plasterboard: As I mentioned, the key is using the right anchors. If the convector is installed on a hollow plasterboard partition (a common office or residential partition), it's even better to locate the metal profile (frame) and anchor directly into it – this is a stronger solution. Profiles can be found with a metal detector.
Aerated concrete: A popular building material, but demanding when it comes to anchoring elements. Regular nylon anchors won't hold in it – use special chemical anchors (acrylic or epoxy compound) or anchors certified for aerated concrete (e.g. Fischer GK or similar). The load capacity of each anchor should be at least 5 times higher than the weight of the convector (most convectors weigh 3–8 kg).
Cottages and holiday properties: The same mounting technique applies here, but pay special attention to the electrical installation. In older cottages, you'll often find undersized wiring, ungrounded outlets, and outdated circuit breakers. Before installing a higher-output convector, have the electrical installation checked by a professional. An investment of €50–100 for an inspection will save you problems – and possibly save you from a fire.
Setting and First Operation of the Convector After Installation
After successful installation and the first startup, it's important to set the controls correctly. Most Protherm convectors feature a mechanical thermostat or electronic control. The setting principle is similar for both types:
- Set the desired temperature on the thermostat (usually 20–22 °C for living spaces)
- The convector will heat until the room reaches the set temperature, then switch off
- When the temperature drops (typically by 0.5–2 °C depending on the thermostat's hysteresis), it will switch on again
- Never leave the thermostat permanently set to maximum – a convector is not designed for 100% load 24/7, especially in small spaces
You can read more about the difference between electronic and mechanical control in the article Convector with electronic vs. mechanical control: which is better.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Do I need an electrician to install a convector?
Not when connecting to a standard outlet with a plug – any handy DIY person can manage that. Mounting the bracket itself and hanging the convector also doesn't necessarily need to be entrusted to a professional. However, you must call an electrician if it's a fixed installation (a cable without a plug connected directly to the convector's terminal block or to a fixed junction box), or if you're unsure about the condition of the electrical installation in the building. According to Slovak legislation (Decree No. 508/2009 Z.z.), electrical installation may only be carried out by an authorized person.
How high above the floor should the convector be?
The lower edge of the convector should be at least 10 cm, ideally 12–15 cm above the floor. This distance ensures proper cold air intake, prevents excessive dust clogging of the fins, and minimizes the risk of overheating. The upper edge should be at least 20 cm below the window sill if the convector is positioned under a window.
Can I connect multiple convectors to a single outlet or extension cord?
It depends on the total output and circuit capacity. I never recommend multiple convectors on a single extension cord – extension cords are not designed for continuous high-output loads. For example, if you have two 1,000 W convectors, the total draw is 8.6 A – this is at the limit of a standard 10 A circuit breaker, and with a regular extension cord there's a risk of overheating the contacts and the plug. Each convector should have its own outlet, ideally its own circuit.
What should I do if the convector doesn't work or doesn't heat after installation?
The first check: is the convector actually switched on, and is the thermostat set to a value higher than the current room temperature? It sounds basic, but this is the cause in about 30% of cases. Another check: the operation of the circuit breaker in the panel. If the breaker has tripped, reset it and watch whether it trips again (if so, the problem is in the wiring or the appliance). You can find more about diagnosing faults in the article Common electric convector faults and how to fix them.
Is a convector suitable for a bathroom?
Standard electric convectors are not designed for bathrooms – they don't have sufficient IP protection against water and moisture. Only appliances with at least IP44 protection (protection against splashing water) are suitable for bathrooms, and even then zone restrictions according to the STN EN 60335 standard apply. If you're looking for bathroom heating, choose a special bathroom electric radiator or a heated towel rail with the appropriate protection rating.
Do I need to have an inspection carried out after installation?
If you're connecting the convector to an existing outlet with a plug, an installation inspection is not mandatory. If it's a fixed installation or a new electrical connection (new circuit, new outlet), this installation must be carried out by an authorized person and checked before commissioning – either by an inspection technician or by the installation company, which will issue the appropriate certificate. For insurance purposes (household and property insurance), it's recommended to keep documentation of the installation.
Conclusion: Installing a Convector Isn't Rocket Science, but the Details Matter
Installing an electric convector on a wall is indeed a job that a skilled DIY person can handle. But – and I emphasize this – only if approached responsibly. Correct height, the right anchors for the given surface type, verified grounding, cable in a channel, and a clear space around the appliance: these are the things that determine whether your convector will work safely and efficiently for the next 10–15 years, or become a source of problems.
If you're still choosing which convector to buy, take a look at our models – from the compact Protherm 500 for smaller spaces, through the medium-output Protherm 1000, to the more powerful Protherm 2000 for larger rooms. If you're not sure what output you need, the article What output does my electric convector need for my room will help, or check the comparison overview in the article Electric convectors Protherm vs. Tesy: what's the difference and which to choose.
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