Clips vs. Pipe Clamps – When to Use Which
Clinch vs. pipe clamping strips – when to use which and what really works in practice
Anyone who has ever installed heating or plumbing systems has sooner or later asked themselves: should I go for a clinch or rather for a strip? At first glance, it seems like a trivial detail – but in the end, the decision will affect how long the system lasts without complaints, how it will look after years of operation, how much time you will spend on scaffolding, and whether an inspector or insurance company will have anything to criticize. This article thoroughly examines the difference between the two systems from the perspective of materials, application, standards and everyday practice.
Fundamental difference: a clinch and a strip are not the same
We start with definitions, because in practice these terms are often confused – even among experienced plumbers. A clinch (clamp, clip) is an individual element that fixes one pipe at one location. The shape is usually semicircular or circular, with a flange or screw closure, and it is mounted directly on the wall, ceiling or load-bearing profile. Each fixing is a separate operation: you drill a hole, insert an anchor, screw in the clinch, and insert the pipe.
A strip, on the other hand, is a system component – a long base profile (usually plastic or steel) that is fixed along the pipe route and into which the pipes are inserted or clipped. A strip by itself is not a fixing for one pipe, but for the entire route. This distinction is key to understanding when it makes sense to use which approach.
When to choose a clinch – and why it is still irreplaceable
The clinch is an older and proven system. In many situations, there is no better alternative – even though strips are more modern and plumbers increasingly prefer them. Let's look at specific scenarios where the clinch clearly wins.
Individual routing of one pipe
If only one pipe runs from a manifold to an appliance – for example, a 16 mm Hepworth pipe to a heating radiator at the end of a branch – using a strip would be overdimensioned and unnecessarily expensive. Here, clinches at regular intervals (standard 50 cm for horizontal routing, 100 cm for vertical routing for plastic pipes Ø 16 mm) are sufficient. The clinch here acts as a clean, economical element without unnecessary material.
Fixing in demanding spaces – shafts, corners, bends
In installation shafts, where pipes cross, change direction or pass through a structure, the fixing geometry is very diverse. A clinch can be placed exactly where it is structurally correct – even if it is not on a flat surface, even if the space is cramped. A strip simply has no room to develop in such an environment.
Repair or addition of existing pipe systems
During renovation, when an additional branch is added to an existing installation, a clinch is a logical choice. There is no reason to install a strip for one pipe that runs from a "T-piece" to a new radiator. In practice, we encounter cases where one clinch is added to a row of existing ones during renovation of an apartment core – and the result is technically and visually consistent.
Fixed fixing (fixed point) vs. sliding support
Clinches exist in two basic types: fixed (anchoring) and sliding (guiding). A fixed clinch does not allow the pipe to move even during thermal expansion – it serves as a fixed point from which the pipe expands in both directions. A sliding clinch holds the pipe in position but allows it to move along the axis. Correct placement of fixed and sliding points is critically important for plastic pipes (PE-RT, PB, PP), where thermal length changes are significant. A strip does not allow this function as clearly – most strip systems are structurally "sliding" without the possibility of creating a fixed point directly in the strip.
When to choose a pipe clamp – a system approach for larger pipe runs
Clamps have become an established solution in the Hepworth system for typical situations where multiple pipes of the same or similar diameter are run along one route. This mainly applies to distribution risers, horizontal connections in the technical room, or distribution from a manifold across the floor to multiple rooms.
Multiple pipes running in parallel
Classic case: five pairs of pipes (supply and return lines) run from the manifold in the boiler room to each of the five underfloor heating circuits. Instead of mounting clips separately along the entire route for each of the ten pipes, you secure the whole bundle with one clamp. You save drilling, chiseling, time – and the result looks more consistent. Pipe clamp for 16 mm pipe is specifically designed for this purpose: it holds the pipes at even intervals, protects them from mechanical damage, and ensures a clean, professional look of the installation.
Installation speed for larger volumes
An experienced installer using a clamp can lay and secure, for example, four pipes faster than if each were mounted with separate clips. The clamp is screwed once, and the pipes are simply inserted or clicked into it. In buildings with hundreds of standard meters of piping – single-family homes, apartment blocks, administrative buildings – we are talking about dozens of hours saved.
Clamping pipes of different diameters
If you are running a 16 mm and an 18 mm pipe side by side (for example, for different circuits or a combined heating + DHW system), there are clamps specifically designed for this combination. Pipe clamp for 16–18 mm pipe allows both diameters to be laid in one profile, which is a solution that is very hard to achieve with clips alone while maintaining the same visual effect.
Running pipes along the floor and in wall-mounted clamps
In low-level routing along the floor – where pipes run along the perimeter wall before being covered with a baseboard or drywall – a clamp is a natural solution. It is mounted on the wall with a row of screws, the pipes are placed inside, and the whole is covered with cladding. Using individual clips in this case would result in instability, as the pipes would lack lateral support.
Material and temperature considerations – what the standard says and what practice shows
Securing pipes is not just an aesthetic matter. Standards such as STN EN ISO 10508 and related European standards for the installation of plastic pipes specify maximum spacing of supports depending on diameter, material, and operating temperature. These values must be known to avoid ending up with an installation that looks like a curtain after a few years.
Spacing of supports according to diameter and temperature
For plastic pipes such as PE-RT or PB with a diameter of 16 mm, the spacing of supports is approximately 60–70 cm for horizontal runs at a temperature up to 20 °C. At 60 °C (typical for a heating system), this spacing is reduced to 40–50 cm, as the pipe becomes softer and would sag without sufficient support. For a diameter of 18 mm and the same temperature, the spacing is slightly larger – about 50–60 cm for cold water, 45–55 cm for hot water. These values must be kept in mind for every support, regardless of whether you use clips or clamps.
Copper pipes – where the Hepworth system is also relevant for heating branches – have larger acceptable spacing due to higher rigidity: for Ø 15 mm, up to 150–180 cm horizontally and 250 cm vertically. Clips are more common here, as copper runs are usually individual or in pairs, and clamps for copper pipes are less common. In copper installations, components such as solderless compression fitting for copper pipe 15x1 EK are used to ensure a secure, tight connection between the pipe and the fitting without the need for soldering.
Thermal expansion of plastic pipes – what we see in practice
This is where most problems arise. The Hepworth PE-RT plastic pipe expands by approximately 1.0–1.2 mm per meter when heated from 10 °C to 70 °C. On a 10-meter run, this means a movement of 10–12 mm. If all the clips are fixed and the pipe has nowhere to go, internal stress is created, which can manifest as a broken clip, a bulge in the pipe, or a disconnection at the joint. Alternating fixed and sliding points is therefore essential – and this must be kept in mind when choosing between clips and clamps. Clamps are mostly sliding (the pipe can move along the axis within them), which is an advantage, not a disadvantage, for plastic heating pipes.
Combining clips and clamps – how an experienced installer does it
In practice, it is not the case that an installer uses only clips or only clamps. An experienced technician combines both systems according to the route and the function of each section. Let’s look at a typical single-family home:
- Technical room / boiler room: Outputs from the manifold – parallel routing of multiple circuits – clamp. A clean and organized layout, easy to read during service.
- Horizontal distribution under the basement ceiling: Usually 2–4 parallel pipes – again a clamp, possibly a combined profile.
- Vertical risers per floor: Individual pipes to each circuit – clips at regular intervals, a fixed point every 2–3 meters.
- Horizontal routing to radiators: One or two pipes – clips or sliding clamps.
- Connection to a radiator or floor manifold: Fixed clip immediately before the fitting (fixed point).
This combination is not random – it is based on where the pipe is at risk of excessive movement, where vibrations occur, where visual clarity is needed, and where it is simply more logistically advantageous to use one system instead of the other.
How to choose the correct size of clip or strip
Seemingly trivial question, a source of many errors in practice. The clip or strip must fit the outer diameter of the pipe – not the nominal diameter (DN) or the inner cross-sectional diameter. The outer diameters of plastic Hepworth pipes are standardized: 16 mm OD, 18 mm OD, 20 mm OD, 25 mm OD, etc. If a pipe labeled as "16 mm" has an outer diameter of exactly 16.0 mm, you need a clip or strip for 16 mm. No rounding up or down. A strip that is too loose will not fix the pipe properly and will rattle during expansion; a tight strip can deform the pipe or prevent sliding movement.
The same principle applies when choosing clamping rings – for example, clamping ring 15x1 EK for copper or PB pipe is dimensioned precisely for an outer diameter of 15 mm and a specific wall thickness; confusion with another type can cause leakage.
More about the correct choice of dimensions can be found in the article What size of clip or strip do I need for my pipe, where you will also find tabular values for common Hepworth diameters.
Installation: screws, anchors, and fastening into different substrates
Even the best choice between clips and strips will not help if the anchoring into the substrate is weak. A standard strip is fastened with M5 or M6 screws, clips mostly with M5 or M6 depending on the diameter. For common masonry (brick, concrete), plastic anchors of 6–8 mm diameter and a steel screw are sufficient. In drywall, the situation is more complex – you either need to hit the stud or use special anchoring (molly anchors, toggler).
For fastening clips and strips to threaded rods or steel profiles, M8 screws are typically used, with KOMBI M8 screw being a typical example of a universal connecting element that works with different types of substrates and profiles. KOMBI screws have a threaded shank suitable for installation into steel profiles and wood, making them flexible for various types of installation.
Important: pipe fastening must not be a point where mechanical stress from the surroundings is concentrated. If the wall you are mounting to is exposed to vibrations (e.g., near a pump, compressor station), use rubber washers or anti-vibration clips. Otherwise, the connections will gradually loosen and the pipe will start to make noise.
Typical errors in selection and installation – what we see in customer orders
After years of working with customers and plumbers, we know where the most common mistakes occur:
- Wrong diameter: The most common mistake. The customer orders clips for 15 mm, because the pipe is "15 mm copper", but the outer diameter is actually 15 mm OD – in this case, the clip fits. The problem arises with plastic pipes, where "16 mm" refers to the outer diameter, not the nominal diameter ϕ15 DN. See the article What size of clip or strip do I need for my pipe.
- Too large spacing: The plumber tries to save on materials and installs clips every 80 cm at 60 °C. Result – after the first heating season, the pipe is bent like a festoon.
- All clips fixed: Without sliding clips, expansion in plastic pipe is resolved by internal stress. Long-term consequence – cracked clips or deformed pipe at hot joints. More in the article Loose or cracked clips – causes and solutions.
- Strip used where the pipe changes direction: A strip is a straight element. If the route turns, the strip ends and the next straight section starts with a new strip. We often see plumbers trying to bend the strip – the result is unattractive and mechanically unreliable.
- Screw mounted directly into the strip without a washer: The strip can deform at the anchoring point when tightened strongly. Always use washers or distribute the force through the correct flange.
- Insufficient anchoring in drywall: The weight of a water-filled pipe is higher than many people think. A liter of water weighs a kilogram – for 10 m of piping, this can be 1.5–2 kg of load just from the water. Drywall without studs cannot support this load.
This topic is addressed in more detail in the article Common mistakes in pipe fastening and how to avoid them, where you will also find photo documentation of real cases from practice.
Special situations – acoustics, hygienic requirements, exterior
Noise and acoustic insulation
In apartment buildings, acoustics are critical. Clips without damping inserts transmit noise from water flow and pumps directly into the building structure. The solution is clips with rubber or EPDM inserts – so-called acoustic clamps. Strips are naturally better in this regard, as the plastic profile itself provides a certain level of insulation. For very sensitive applications (e.g., hospitals, recording studios), it is recommended to combine the strip with an elastic cushioning strip between the strip and the wall.
Hygienic requirements – potable water
If the piping serves for potable water (not just for heating), the materials of the clips or strips must be certified for contact with potable water. Common plastic clips made of PP or PA are usually fine, but always check the manufacturer's certificate. Metal clips made of zinc alloy or stainless steel are generally acceptable.
Exterior Installations
For exterior use – for example, water supply to an outdoor faucet or pool equipment – it is necessary to use clips made of material resistant to UV radiation and temperature fluctuations. Standard PP clips degrade when exposed to UV over a long period and crack after 3–5 years. More suitable are clips made of stainless steel or UV-stabilized plastic.
Most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use a clip for copper pipe as well?
Technically yes, but it is not a typical solution. Copper pipes are usually fastened with individual clips because they are rigid and run separately or in pairs. Clips are optimized for plastic systems with a larger number of parallel pipes. If you still want to run copper pipes in a clip, check whether the clip material does not cause galvanic corrosion when in contact with copper – plastics are safe in this regard, while metal clips require verification of compatibility.
What is the maximum spacing of clips for 16 mm PE-RT pipe in horizontal position at 60 °C?
At operating temperature of 60 °C and horizontal installation of PE-RT pipe Ø 16 mm, the spacing of fastenings should not exceed 40–50 cm. For lower temperatures (up to 30 °C), you can go up to 60–70 cm. Always follow the technical data sheet of the pipe manufacturer, as values may slightly vary according to the material class and wall thickness.
Is a clip suitable as a fixed point for pipe expansion?
Most standard plastic clips are not structurally designed to create a fixed expansion point – the pipe can move along the axis within the clip. If you need a fixed point (and for plastic heating pipes you always need it), use a fixed clip with movement blocking at that location. Fixed points are usually near fittings, T-joints, or at the point of entry into the structure.
What is the difference between a 16 mm clip and a 16–18 mm clip?
A 16 mm clip is designed exclusively for pipes with an outer diameter of 16 mm – the clip profile is precisely dimensioned to hold the pipe reliably without excessive clearance. A 16–18 mm clip has a wider clip profile that allows both diameters to be placed next to each other or mixed. If you are running only 16 mm pipes, a specific 16 mm clip will hold the pipes more firmly and without clearance. If you are mixing diameters, a 16–18 mm clip is a more practical choice.
Can I screw a clip directly into concrete without a plug?
It is technically possible to use self-tapping screws (e.g., special concrete Torx screws) in concrete that do not require a standard plug. The condition is a minimum strength of the base (concrete C20/25 or higher) and correct anchoring depth (at least 30–40 mm). For standard installations, however, a standard plastic plug + steel screw is a more reliable and cheaper combination. Never anchor into plaster without a plug – plaster does not have sufficient tensile strength.
What to do if a clip becomes loose and the pipe is moving?
First, determine the cause of the loosening – whether it is mechanical damage to the plug, a plug that has fallen out of a weak base, or a cracked clip due to thermal expansion. Based on that, choose a solution: replace the plug with a larger type, replace the cracked clip with the correct type (fixed/sliding), or reassess the entire arrangement of fixing points on that section. A detailed procedure can be found in the article Loose or Cracked Clips – Causes and Solutions.
Conclusion: A choice that influences the entire lifespan of the installation
The decision between clips and clips is not about what is "better" in an absolute sense. Both systems have their place and an experienced installer can combine them so that the installation is mechanically correct, normatively compliant, visually clean, and easy to maintain. The rule is simple: where one or two pipes are run with a requirement for a fixed point or in a complex geometry – use a clip. Where several pipes are run in parallel, on long straight runs or in a technical room – use a clip.
If you are unsure about the choice for your specific situation, other articles in this section will help you: How to choose the right mounting accessories for Hepworth pipe, How to properly mount clips and clips on pipe, or Manual vs. mechanical fastening of pipe – differences and use. The entire Knowledge Center in the category of mounting accessories is designed so that you can handle every job with confidence and without unnecessary mistakes.
Do you have a question about this topic?
Not sure how to decide or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.