Differences between sink, bathtub, shower, and bidet faucets
Differences between basin, bathtub, shower, and bidet faucets
When a customer comes into the store and says "I want to buy a bathroom faucet," the first question must be: which type and where? At first glance, faucets may look very similar – spout, lever, chrome. In reality, each type of faucet is designed for a specific location and specific function, and mixing them is either impossible or will later cause problems. A basin faucet does not belong above a bathtub, and a bathtub faucet does not fit on a bidet. Each type has different dimensions, different spout height, different accessories, and different pressure requirements.
In this article, we will examine each type of faucet in detail – from construction, through dimensions and connection, to typical situations in practice where people make mistakes. If you are still unsure whether you want a wall-mounted or deck-mounted faucet, I recommend reading the topic Wall-mounted vs. Deck-mounted Faucet: Which Suits Your Bathroom, where this question is well explained. Here we will focus on the differences between types according to use.
Basin Faucets – for Sinks and Kitchen Sinks
A basin faucet is the most common type – you will find it at the bathroom sink, at the kitchen sink, and sometimes at a utility sink. Despite the fact that they are all called "basin faucets," there are important differences between the bathroom and kitchen versions.
Basic Dimensions and Spout Height
A bathroom basin faucet (sink faucet) typically has a lower spout – from 100 to 150 mm above the center of the connection. The spout is usually fixed, pointing straight down or slightly forward. Some models have a swivel arm, which is appreciated at double sinks (e.g., in a children's bathroom). A kitchen basin faucet has a significantly higher spout – usually 200 to 250 mm – and a swivel arm is almost always included, because it must reach both sink basins.
The center-to-center distance of the connection is standard 100 mm for a deck-mounted basin faucet (the supply hoses are 10 cm apart). This is an important dimension to which most sinks and basins with matching hole spacing are connected. More about dimensions and thread sizes (1/2", 3/4") can be found in the topic Dimensions and Connections of Faucets: What Do 1/2", 3/4", and Center Distance Mean.
Single-handle vs. Double-handle Design
Basin faucets are divided into single-handle (with one lever, so-called single-control) and double-handle (two separate valves – one for hot, one for cold water). Double-handle faucets are less common today, but are still installed in the renovation of older apartments, where the water supplies are separated by a greater distance, or in special design requirements (retro bathrooms). Single-handle faucets with a lever or a ball valve controlled by one hand are dominant today.
Practical Example
In practice, it often happens that a customer orders a faucet with a short spout (100 mm) and installs it above a kitchen sink. The result: water flows directly into the drain, hands cannot be properly washed, and filling a large pot becomes a struggle. The golden rule is: for a kitchen sink, always at least 200 mm spout height, for a bathroom sink 100–150 mm is sufficient.
An excellent example of a practical and clear deck-mounted faucet is, for example, 946487 deck-mounted basin faucet, LOOP – suitable for a standard sink with a corresponding hole and center distance of 100 mm. Similarly, deck-mounted basin faucet ARKO in satin finish is a typical representative of this category – clean design, simple installation, satin surface resistant to fingerprints.
Bathtub Faucets – Comfort in Filling and Showering
A bathtub faucet is structurally more robust than a basin faucet. It must handle a higher flow rate (filling a bathtub is a much larger volume than washing hands), and is most often combined with a shower outlet or a diverter valve. This is where the most important difference lies: a bathtub faucet has two outputs – one directing into the tub (down, through the spout), the other for the shower hose.
Flow Rate and Cartridge
While a standard basin faucet can manage with a cartridge diameter of 25–35 mm and a flow rate of about 10–15 l/min, a bathtub faucet has a cartridge diameter of mostly 40–46 mm and a flow rate that can reach 20–30 l/min at a standard pressure of 3 bar. A smaller cartridge would slow down filling the tub to an unacceptable time.
Types of Bathtub Faucets
Bathtub faucets are available in three basic types:
- Deck-mounted (upright) – mounted on the edge of the tub in one, two or three holes; or on the wall behind the tub.
- Wall-mounted – the mechanism is built into the wall, only the cover and lever/lever handle are visible; saves space, looks minimalist.
- Wall-mounted (projecting) – the body of the faucet is attached to the wall, the arm extends forward over the tub.
An example of a practical deck-mounted bathtub faucet is bathtub faucet without accessories ARKO in satin finish. The designation "without accessories" here means that the shower set (shower head, hose, holder) is purchased separately – the customer can thus choose the head according to their own needs (rain, massage, gentle). This is a practical approach, as many customers already have a shower set from a previous bathroom or buy it separately in a different surface finish.
Diverter Valve (Tub/Shower Switch)
Most bathtub faucets have an integrated diverter valve – a switch that redirects water either into the tub spout (filling) or into the shower hose. This valve is opened and closed either by pulling (a vertical lifting button on top of the spout) or by a rotating knob. Pull-type diverters are simpler and cheaper, rotating ones are more durable and ergonomic. When choosing a faucet, note whether the diverter is part of the delivery – sometimes it is delivered separately.
Shower valves – a separate category for shower enclosures
A shower valve is a specialized version designed exclusively for a shower stall or a shower area without a bathtub. It does not have a bathtub spout; the water flow goes directly into the shower hose (or directly into the ceiling rain shower head in the case of wall-mounted systems). It is structurally very similar to a bathtub valve, but simpler – there is no diverter valve between the bathtub and the shower.
Mounting height of shower valves
This is one of the most common technical mistakes during renovations. A shower valve should be mounted so that the center of the lever (control) is at a height of 100–110 cm from the floor – this is the ergonomic height for an adult to reach the control without bending. The shower head on the arm should be at a minimum height of 200–220 cm, ideally 210 cm. Different rules apply for ceiling rain shower heads.
Thermostatic shower valves
A special subcategory includes thermostatic valves – they contain a thermostatic valve that automatically maintains the set water temperature regardless of pressure fluctuations. This is a significant comfort and safety feature, especially in households with children. Thermostatic valves are more expensive, but they are worth the investment in daily use due to the time saved in setting the temperature and the elimination of the risk of scalding.
Practical tip from experience: if you are renovating a bathroom and installing a shower stall without a bathtub, always consider a wall-mounted shower valve. It saves space, provides a cleaner visual appearance, and in the long run, wall-mounted systems are more durable because the mechanism is protected from direct water spray. The topic of wall-mounted versus floor-mounted valves is discussed in more detail in the article Wall-mounted vs. Floor-mounted Valves: Which One Suits Your Bathroom.
Bidet valves – a special category for bidets
A bidet is still more of an exception than a rule in Slovak bathrooms, but interest in them is growing – especially in combination with higher-quality bathroom renovations. A bidet valve is specifically designed for a bidet and has several characteristic features that distinguish it from a standard sink valve, even though they may look very similar at first glance.
Outlet height and water flow direction
A bidet valve has a low outlet – usually 60 to 100 mm above the connection axis – because the bidet is a low basin and the water should flow gently upward or slightly sideways, not downward as with a sink valve. Some models have an adjustable outlet angle, which is practical. The water flow must be gentle and precise, so a mesh or aerator at the outlet is a necessity.
Drain assembly – what it is and why it is important
Bidet valves are often sold with a drain assembly. A drain assembly (waste unit) is the mechanism for draining the bidet – it consists of a stopper, a cord, and a connecting rod that allows you to open and close the drain directly from the valve (by pulling the rod on the body of the valve or the lever above the outlet). Without a drain mechanism, you would have to open and close the drain manually, which is very impractical.
An example of a complete bidet set is the bidet valve with drain assembly ARKO in chrome finish, as well as the bidet valve with drain assembly ARKO in satin finish. Both models include the drain assembly in the package – the customer thus receives a fully functional set without the need to purchase additional parts. Satin finish is a practical choice for bathrooms where matte or "stainless" elements are preferred over classic shiny chrome.
Water pressure and temperature requirements for bidets
A bidet connects to hot and cold water supplies just like a sink – with a 100 mm center-to-center distance between connections and a G 1/2″ thread. The water pressure for a bidet should be at least 0.5 bar, ideally 2–3 bars. If the pressure is too high (over 5 bar), we recommend installing a pressure regulator on the supply, as a bidet is a sensitive appliance and the water flow should be gentle, not forceful. More about pressure requirements for valves can be found in the topic What water pressure do valves need and what to check before purchase.
Comparison table of all four types of taps
| Feature | Basin tap | Bath tap | Shower tap | Bidet tap |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Outlet height | 100–250 mm | 200–300 mm | Variable (hose) | 60–100 mm |
| Flow rate (typical) | 10–15 l/min | 20–30 l/min | 10–20 l/min | 6–12 l/min |
| Center-to-center distance | 100 mm | 100 or 150 mm | Wall / 100 mm | 100 mm |
| Supply thread | G 1/2″ | G 3/4″ or G 1/2″ | G 1/2″ | G 1/2″ |
| Diverting valve | No | Yes (bath/shower) | No | No |
| Drain / faucet | Optional | No (separate bath drain) | No | Yes (part of the bidet) |
| Cartridge diameter | 25–35 mm | 40–46 mm | 25–40 mm | 25–35 mm |
Interchangeability and common installation mistakes
This is an area where an experienced plumber can immediately tell an "amateur" from a professional. Let's look at specific scenarios we encounter in real life.
"I have a bidet, I'll install a basin tap" – why it doesn't work
You can physically install it – the center-to-center distance is the same (100 mm), the thread is the same (G 1/2″). However, the outlet of a basin tap is too long and too high, so water does not flow properly into the bidet bowl, and most importantly – there is no drain control. A bidet without a functional drain is unusable, as water would not drain from the bowl. In addition, the aerator of a basin tap creates a different flow pattern (wider, dispersed), which is not suitable for the hygienic use of a bidet.
"I'll install a bath tap above the basin" – why it's a problem
A bath tap is oversized – a flow rate of 20–30 l/min at normal water pressure creates a real waterfall in the basin. Water sprays everywhere, water consumption is unnecessarily high, and the thermostatic control (if included) is harder to adjust for small amounts. In addition, the body of a bath tap is heavier and bulkier, which looks out of place above a standard sink.
Swapping a shower tap with a bath tap
If you have a bath tap and want to replace it with a shower tap, it is technically feasible – the water supply connections are in the same place. However, you will lose the bath spout and the diverting valve. For a shower stall without a bath, this is the correct approach, but in a space where there is also a bath, it is a mistake. Conversely, you cannot use a shower tap as a bath tap – it lacks a spout and a diverting valve.
What to check when replacing an old tap
If you are replacing an old tap with a new one, the most important thing is to measure:
- The center-to-center distance of the connections (usually 100 mm, sometimes 150 mm on older baths)
- The diameter of the hole in the sink/basin (standard 35 mm, some sinks 38 or 45 mm)
- The height from the connections to the top surface – important for low sinks
- The type of thread on the water supply (G 1/2″ is standard, but older installations may have different ones)
A detailed guide to replacing a tap, including tools and possible problems, can be found in the topic Installation of a water tap: procedure, tools, and common mistakes and Replacing the seal and cartridge in a tap: when and how to do it.
Surface finishes and their influence on the choice of tap type
The surface finish is as important as the type of tap when purchasing. Polished chrome is a classic and the most available option – it is easy to clean and resistant to normal wear. Satin (mat stainless steel look) is becoming increasingly popular because it shows fewer water droplets and fingerprints – ideal for areas where the tap is used intensively (especially a basin tap above a sink). Black matte surface finish is a design choice for modern minimalist bathrooms, but it requires more careful maintenance.
It is important that the tap's surface finish matches other bathroom accessories – handles, light switches, mirror frames, thermostats. Mixing chrome and satin in a small space can look chaotic. More on this topic can be found in the article Tap surface finishes: chrome, satin, black matte – differences and durability.
Special types of taps that do not fall into standard categories
Thermostatic taps
Thermostatic taps – available as bath, shower, and combined bath-shower models – contain a thermostatic cartridge that automatically maintains a preset water temperature. If the hot water pressure drops (e.g., someone starts the dishwasher), the thermostat automatically adjusts and does not unexpectedly release cold water. A safety cut-off is set at 38 °C (prevents scalding). Thermostatic taps are ideal for households with children and the elderly.
Taps for shower baths
Modern design solutions combine a shower bath (a deeper bath with an integrated shower area) with a complex tap that has multiple outlets – a ceiling rain shower head, a handheld shower, a bath spout, and therapeutic side jets. These systems are always built-in and usually have thermostatic control.
Taps for sinks and work basins
Sink taps are structurally similar to basin taps, but they have a fixed (non-swivel) outlet and simple controls. The focus is on durability and simplicity – not on design. The flow rate is usually higher than that of a standard sink tap, as the sink is used for filling buckets, etc.
Most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use a sink faucet instead of a bidet faucet?
Physically yes (the dimensions are compatible), but it is impractical in practice. A sink faucet has a different direction and character of water flow and does not have a drain control (drain mechanism). A bidet without a functional drain is inconvenient because you have to open the drain manually – which is very uncomfortable for daily use. In addition, the height of the water flow from a sink faucet may not be suitable for a specific bidet. It is always better to use a bidet faucet, ideally with a drain kit included in the package.
What is different about a bathtub faucet compared to a shower faucet?
A bathtub faucet also has a diverter valve that switches between the bathtub spout (for filling the tub) and the shower hose. A shower faucet does not have this valve – it only has an outlet for the shower hose. A bathtub faucet also has a larger cartridge and higher flow rate, because filling a bathtub requires a larger volume of water. If you have only a shower stall without a bathtub, a shower faucet is completely sufficient.
Why do bidet faucets have a drain kit, but bathtub faucets do not?
A bidet is a closed basin that must have a mechanism for draining water. This mechanism (drain kit) is controlled by a lever or rod directly on the faucet for convenient use. With a bathtub, the drain is controlled by a different mechanism (bathtub drain assembly), which is separate from the faucet – it is usually located directly at the bottom of the tub and is operated separately. That is why bathtub drain kits are sold as separate accessories.
How do I find out what type of faucet is suitable for my sink?
Look at the sink: if it has one hole with a diameter of 35 mm (or 38 mm), it is intended for a single-hole sink faucet with a mounting nut. If it has three holes (center + two side holes at a distance of 100 mm), it is called a three-hole sink – it requires a three-hole faucet or a traditional single-hole faucet with the corresponding spacing. Sinks without holes are intended for wall- or ceiling-mounted faucets (recessed). More information in the topic Dimensions and faucet connections: what do 1/2", 3/4", and center-to-center distance mean?.
What does "bathtub faucet without accessories" mean?
This term means that the faucet does not include a shower set (shower head, hose, wall bracket). The faucet mechanism with the bathtub spout and diverter valve is included in the package, but the shower is purchased separately. This is convenient if the customer wants a different type of shower than the standard one (e.g., rainfall, therapeutic, with various functions) or if they want to keep the shower from the previous faucet – this saves money and avoids waste.
Is a bidet suitable for every bathroom?
A bidet requires a minimum floor space – usually at least 70–80 cm of free space is needed for comfortable use. It is necessary to have hot and cold water connections nearby (typically next to the toilet), as well as a drainage pipe. In smaller bathrooms, an alternative is a bidet shower (a shower nozzle next to the toilet) or a toilet with a built-in bidet function, where a separate faucet is not needed.
Conclusion – What to remember when choosing a faucet
Choosing the right type of faucet is not complicated if you know what you are looking for. A sink faucet belongs to a sink or countertop – they only differ in the height of the spout and the arm's rotation. A bathtub faucet is more powerful, has a diverter valve, and belongs to a bathtub. A shower faucet is a simplified bathtub faucet without a spout – suitable for shower stalls. And a bidet faucet is special, low, with a gentle flow and integrated drain control.
Interchangeability of types is only possible in exceptional cases and always brings compromises. Rather, measure the holes, center-to-center distances, and connection heights, choose the correct type, and be inspired by specific design and surface finish. The full range of water supply faucets filtered by type can be found in the category water supply faucets.
Do you have a question about this topic?
Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.