Why choosing a water tap is more important than it seems
A water tap is one of the most used items in the entire house. In the bathroom, you use it dozens of times a day – for washing hands, showering, brushing teeth. In the kitchen for cooking, washing dishes, filling pots. Despite this, most people give the choice of tap minimal attention and decide solely based on price or appearance. The result is often that after two years the tap starts dripping, the lever moves harder, the surface loses its shine – and the whole process starts all over again.
An experienced plumber or salesperson will tell you that a good tap should last ten to fifteen years without major intervention. But this is only true if it is properly selected, properly installed and properly maintained. This article will take you through everything you need to know – from basic types and mechanisms through dimensions and connections to specific recommendations for various situations in practice.
Basic types of water taps according to location and function
The first step in selection is to clarify exactly where you need the tap and what you expect from it. Taps are divided into several basic groups according to the installation location:
Bathroom taps
Designed for the sink in the bathroom. Standard is a single-hole wall-mounted tap (single-hole) or a tap with a range of 150 to 200 mm (double-hole, i.e. with separate valves for hot and cold water). Today, single-hole lever (one-hand) taps dominate – they are more comfortable, hygienic and less prone to wear, as you regulate the temperature with one lever. The choice of outlet height depends on the depth of the sink: shallow sinks (up to 15 cm) require a low outlet, deep sinks or countertop sinks can handle a higher outlet or even a high-arc tap.
Kitchen taps
A kitchen sink has different requirements than a bathroom sink. You need a higher and mostly swivel outlet so you can easily fill pots and move around when washing dishes. The standard in the kitchen is a wall-mounted tap with an outlet of 170–220 mm above the level of the sink and a swivel arm of 120° to 360°. An interesting option are also taps with a pull-out/pull-down sprayer – the arm is pulled out and provides a flexible water stream anywhere in the sink or next to it. An example of a quality solution for the kitchen is the wall-mounted kitchen tap LOOP, which combines a simple design with a practical high outlet suitable for most standard sinks.
Bathtub taps
A bathtub tap must handle a higher water flow than a sink tap – you fill the bathtub with it, i.e. about 150 to 200 liters of water. Therefore, it is important that it has a larger diameter cartridge (usually 40 mm or more) and an unrestricted flow. Bathtub taps exist in a wall-mounted version (mounted on the edge of the tub), in a wall version (mounted on the wall with an outlet spout and shower) or in a so-called thermostatic version (maintains the set temperature regardless of fluctuations in the network). For those looking for a solution without the need to buy additional accessories separately, the bathtub tap ARKO in satin finish is suitable – an elegant choice where you prefer a matte, more durable surface over classic chrome.
Shower taps
Shower taps are mostly wall-mounted, sometimes built-in. Their primary task is to regulate the temperature and flow of water for the shower system. Single shower taps without a bathtub spout are simpler – they have only one output for the shower. Combined bathtub-shower taps have a switch between the spout for the bathtub and the shower.
Bidet taps
Bidet is on the rise in Slovak bathrooms and its tap has several specifics. A bidet tap must have a low outlet (a bidet is shallower than a sink) and is usually sold together with an overflow set (stopper with a cord control). If you are looking for a complete solution, look at the bidet tap ARKO with an overflow set in chrome or its satin alternative bidet tap ARKO satin – both variants have an overflow set in the packaging, which simplifies the entire installation. More about what exactly is included in the packaging and what needs to be bought separately can be found in the article Bidet tap with an overflow set: what is included in the packaging and what needs to be bought separately in the Knowledge Center.
Tap mechanism: what is inside and why it matters
The longevity of a tap depends primarily on the quality of the internal mechanism – the cartridge. You encounter several types on the market:
Ceramic cartridge
Today it is the standard in all higher quality taps. Two precisely machined ceramic disks (one fixed, one movable) move relative to each other and thus regulate the flow and temperature. Ceramic is extremely resistant to wear – cartridges tested for 500,000 cycles without leakage are a common standard. A tap with a ceramic cartridge is easy to operate, smooth, without jerking. If your tap starts dripping after a few years, the cartridge can usually be replaced – more about that in the article Replacement of seal and cartridge in a tap: when and how to do it.
Ball valve cartridge
You will find it more in older or cheaper taps, more often in the American market. The principle is simpler – a rotating ball with holes regulates the flow. Less durable than ceramic, replacement is more complicated.
Thermostatic cartridge
A special type for thermostatic taps. It contains a thermosensitive element (typically wax or metal alloys) that automatically reacts to changes in water temperature in the network and maintains the set value. A safety lock prevents setting above 38 °C without pressing a special button – protection against scalding, important in households with children.
Surface finishes: not just a matter of aesthetics
The surface of a tap is not just a visual matter – it significantly affects durability, maintenance and long-term appearance. In the Knowledge Center you will find a detailed article Surface finishes of taps: chrome, satin, black matte – differences and durability, here is a practical overview:
Chrome
A classic that never goes out of style. Shiny chrome is cheaper to produce, easy to clean with common products, and hides scratches well (the shiny surface visually suppresses them). Disadvantage: every limescale and every fingerprint is immediately visible on it. In areas with hard water (and most of Slovakia has hard water, 14–20 °dH), chrome is more prone to forming deposits visible to the naked eye.
Satin (brushed stainless steel / nickel satin)
A matte or semi-matte finish that looks modern and industrial. It hides fingerprints much better than shiny chrome and limescale is not immediately visible on it. Important: satin is not "stainless steel" in the sense of material – it is a surface finish of brass or zinc body. Clean it with a soft cloth and a mild product, avoid acids. A typical example is the wall-mounted kitchen tap ARKO in satin finish – a pleasant alternative to chrome for modern kitchens with stainless steel or dark sinks.
Black matte
A trend of the last five years, popular mainly in black and anthracite bathrooms. Visually elegant, but from a maintenance point of view, the most demanding. On a black surface, water droplets are extremely visible after drying and most cleaning products will damage it. Recommended is only a soft cloth and clean water, or non-aggressive cleaning products without acids and alcohol.
Dimensions, connection and center distance – technical parameters that decide
This is an area where most people make mistakes – they buy a tap that does not fit the existing installation. Pay attention to this point, especially if you are replacing a tap in an older apartment.
Center distance
For wall-mounted taps (bathtub, shower), the key data is the center distance – the distance between the centers of the hot and cold water inlets. The European standard is 150 mm. Some older installations (especially from the communist era) have a center distance of 100 mm – and a standard modern tap cannot be installed on such an installation without adapters. Before purchasing, always measure the distance between the centers of the inlets. More technical details can be found in the article Dimensions and tap connections: what do 1/2", 3/4" and center distance mean.
Threaded connections: 1/2" and 3/4"
Most bathroom taps (sink, bidet) are connected with hoses with an internal thread of G 3/8" or G 1/2" – the inlets in the wall are usually G 1/2". Bathtub and shower taps may have G 3/4" due to higher flow. Kitchen sink taps are standard G 1/2". Before ordering, check: what thread do your existing outlets in the wall or under the sink have?
Mounting hole in the sink or basin
A wall-mounted tap is mounted through a hole in the sink or basin itself. The standard hole diameter is 35 mm, there are also 32 mm. More important is this for basins: a standard kitchen basin has one hole of 35 mm diameter. If you want a tap with a side outlet for a cleaning brush or separate control, you need a basin with two holes. This needs to be resolved before buying a basin, not when choosing a tap.
Wall-mounted vs. wall-mounted tap – choice according to the bathroom
This is a decision that will influence not only the aesthetics of the bathroom, but also the availability of repairs and the cost of installation. The topic is dealt with in detail in a separate article in the Knowledge Center: Wall-mounted vs. wall-mounted tap: which one is suitable for your bathroom. Here is a practical summary:
Wall-mounted tap is mounted directly on the surface of the sink, basin or floor (for bathtubs). The water supply runs under the tap through hoses, which are partially visible but accessible. Advantage: replacement takes an hour and does not require demolition. A wall-mounted tap is the right choice for renovations where you don't want to interfere with the walls, or for rented apartments.
Wall-mounted tap has the body hidden in the wall, only the control element and the outlet protrude. The result is clean, minimalist – the bathroom looks more modern. Price: the body of the tap (connection box) must be installed before tiling, future cartridge replacement will require at least removal of the front cover (not necessarily demolition of the wall). For a new bathroom, a wall-mounted tap is an excellent choice, for a renovation of an existing bathroom, consider the costs.
What to pay attention to when choosing according to practice – 10 scenarios from real customer orders
Over the years in the industry we have seen many situations where customers chose an unsuitable product. Here are the most common scenarios and how to avoid them:
- Replacing an old tap in a panel house: Always measure the center distance of the inlets before purchase – it is often 100 mm instead of the European standard of 150 mm. Solution: adapter or a tap with adjustable center distance.
- Kitchen sink with a high back edge: If the sink has a high back panel, a tap with a short outlet is unusable – water runs over the edge. Minimum outlet for such sinks: 180 mm above the mounting surface.
- Freestanding bathtub: A standard wall-mounted bathtub tap does not belong here – you need a floor stand or a separate floor-mounted tap, or a "pont" tap over the edge of the tub.
- Hard water + cheap tap: In areas with water hardness above 20 °dH (e.g. most of western and central Slovakia) cheap taps with a low-quality cartridge will last 2–3 years. An investment in a better quality cartridge pays off.
- Small sink with a shallow bowl: A tap with too high an outlet will cause water to spray outside the sink. For sinks up to 12 cm deep, choose a low outlet or a sloped outlet.
- Bathroom with children: Consider a thermostatic tap with a safety lock – it prevents accidental setting of too hot water. The lock blocks setting above 38 °C without actively overcoming the safety catch.
- Renovation without demolition: The customer wants to modernize the bathroom without breaking the tiles. Solution: a new wall-mounted tap (e.g. ARKO or LOOP), or replacing only the lever and cover of an existing wall-mounted tap if the body is in good condition.
- Extending rings and eccentric connectors: If the existing inlets in the wall do not come out exactly at the desired center distance, or not exactly in the same plane, they are solved with eccentric connectors (eccentrics). The range of adjustment is usually ±15 mm and ±10 mm in depth.
- Tap in a rented apartment: Rental apartments require durable, easily repairable taps with standard cartridges. Avoid exotic designs, for which it is hard to find spare parts.
- Swivel outlet in the kitchen vs. shower behind the mirror: If there is a window or a cabinet without clearance above the kitchen sink, the swivel arm must not hit. Measure the angle of rotation and available space in advance.
Flow, water pressure and their influence on tap selection
Water flow in a tap is given in liters per minute (l/min) at a reference pressure of 3 bar. Standard household water pressure is 2.5 to 5 bar. Taps for normal use are optimized for 3 bar. Problems arise at both extremes:
Low pressure (below 1.5 bar) – typical in old buildings or higher floors. Normal taps work, but the flow is weak. Thermostatic taps may not work reliably, as their mechanism requires a minimum pressure differential between hot and cold water (usually at least 0.5 bar). Solution: hydraulic pressure equalizer or a tap with low minimum pressure (some models work from 0.5 bar).
High pressure (over 5 bar) – pipe pressure causes noise, vibrations and faster wear of the cartridge. Solution: pressure reducing valve before the tap distribution. Without it, cheaper taps will show leaks after one to two years. The article Common water tap faults: dripping, weak flow, noise describes in more detail how to diagnose and solve these problems.
Modern taps usually have a built-in aerator (mesh air inlet) at the end of the outlet. It not only fine-tunes the water stream (and thus saves water – typically reduces consumption from 12–15 l/min to 6–8 l/min with the same comfort feeling), but also catches solid impurities. The aerator is removable and needs to be cleaned occasionally – especially with a new installation, when impurities may come from the pipes.
Sustainability and water saving – eco taps and aerators
Modern taps with an eco-regulator or two-position aerator allow switching between normal flow (e.g. 8 l/min) and saving flow (e.g. 4 l/min). For bathrooms with showers, the regulated flow of the shower head is also relevant – but this relates to the choice of the shower set, not the tap itself.
From the point of view of water saving, the biggest impact is in the kitchen: a kitchen tap can leak up to 30,000 liters of water a year. A tap with an eco-aerator at 6 l/min instead of 12 l/min means literally 50% less consumption – without you subjectively feeling the difference in normal use (washing, filling a glass). It is different when filling large pots – here you will appreciate the full flow. Some kitchen taps therefore offer manual flow switching.
Installation and routine maintenance – the basis of long life
Proper installation does more for the longevity of a tap than its price. A few rules that always apply:
- Before installation, always flush the water supply – new pipes contain filings, an old system may have deposits. These impurities can destroy the cartridge within a few months.
- Never wrap a flat rubber gasket in a hose connector with sealing tape – there is no place for the tape on flat rubber gaskets. Tape (teflon) is used exclusively for conical threads, not for connectors with flat rubber.
- Use an Allen key, not pliers – brass tap body is easily damaged by excessive force. The hose inlet nuts are tightened by hand + a quarter turn with a key, not to the end.
- After installation, slowly open the supply and check the seals – any slight dripping can be adjusted without disassembly.
As for cleaning, a simple rule applies: what is gentle for human skin is also gentle for the tap. A soft cloth, warm water, and possibly a mild liquid soap – this is enough for 99% of situations. Limescale on the aerator can be removed by soaking in vinegar for 30 minutes. Never use abrasive sponges, strong acids or chlorine-based cleaning products – each of these products will permanently damage the surface. A detailed procedure is in the article How to maintain and clean taps without damaging the surface.
Price vs. quality: where is the reasonable limit
On the Slovak market, taps range in price from 15 € (no-name, plastic cartridge, zinc alloy) to 800 € and more (premium brands, ceramic body, thermostatic functions). Where is the reasonable limit?
From practical experience, the rule of thumb is: taps in the price range of 40–80 € for the bathroom and 50–100 € for the kitchen provide a good price-to-quality ratio. In this category you will find:
- Ceramic cartridge of size 35 mm (long life, smooth operation)
- Brass or brass alloy body (more durable than zinc alloy – Zamak)
- Surface treatment resistant to normal cleaning
- Certification according to European standards (DVGW, WRAS or Slovak equivalent)
Taps for 15–25 € mostly contain plastic or poorly processed cartridges, body made of Zamak (zinc alloy more prone to corrosion) and a thin chrome layer. After one to two years in hard water they start dripping and the surface wears out. It is not economical or ecological – a cheap tap in the landfill after three years costs more in calculation than a better quality product that lasts 10–15 years.
On the other hand: premium taps over 200 € for the bathroom pay off mainly in a comfortable bathroom with an emphasis on design, in thermostatic systems or in investment properties. For a normal family bathroom, it is an unnecessary investment.
Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How do I find out what center distance I have in my bathroom?
Measure the distance between the centers of the two inlet pipes or outlets from the wall – where hot and cold water are. Measure from axis to axis (not from edge to edge). If there are eccentric connectors (adapters) on the outlet, remove them and measure from the pipes. The European standard is 150 mm. In older apartments, especially panel houses, you may encounter 100 mm. This data is necessary before purchasing a wall-mounted tap.
Can I replace the tap myself, without a plumber?
Yes, replacing a wall-mounted tap (bathroom, kitchen) is a common DIY job that you can do with an adjustable wrench and hoses. You need to close the water shut-off valve under the tap (or the main shut-off valve), remove the old hoses, install new gaskets, connect new hoses and the new tap. The whole process takes 30–60 minutes. More complicated is the installation of a wall-mounted bathtub tap (eccentrics, gasket) and of course a wall-mounted tap – there we recommend a professional. The step-by-step procedure is described in the article Installation of a water tap: procedure, tools and common mistakes.
Why does my new tap drip right after installation?
The most common causes: undetached hose gasket (first step: tighten by a quarter turn), missing or damaged flat rubber in the connector, or dirt trapped in the cartridge – usually filings from the pipes in a new installation. In the last case: unscrew the aerator and let the water flow for 30 seconds to wash away the dirt. If the outlet drips when the lever is closed, the cartridge is damaged – either during installation (by force) or it is faulty. Detailed diagnosis is in the article Common water tap faults: dripping, weak flow, noise.
What is the difference between a kitchen and a bathroom tap – can they be interchanged?
Technically they are similar – both types are wall-mounted, connected with G 3/8" or G 1/2" hoses, have the same 35 mm thread in the mounting hole. A kitchen tap has a higher outlet (170–220 mm) and a swivel arm, while a bathroom tap has a lower fixed outlet. A kitchen tap can be installed on a bathroom sink if you have a sufficiently deep sink and the height does not interfere. Conversely (bathroom tap in a kitchen sink) also works, but the low outlet will be impractical when filling larger containers. They can be interchanged, but each type is optimized for its function.
Is satin the same as stainless steel?
No. Satin finish is only a type of surface finish – a matte or semi-matte layer (applied galvanically or by physical deposition) on the tap body, which is most often made of brass or zinc alloy. Stainless steel is a material, not a surface. Taps made of stainless steel exist, but they are significantly more expensive and less common. Satin thus imitates the appearance of brushed stainless steel, but the tap body is not made of stainless steel. The satin layer is durable, but it must be treated gently – without acids and abrasives.
Is it worth buying a thermostatic tap for the shower?
For most households yes, under two conditions: 1) you have stable pressure in the network (at least 2 bar on the hot and cold side), 2) you have a suitable volume of storage heater or continuous heating. A thermostat makes sense especially where pressure or water temperature fluctuate – for example when someone flushes the toilet during a shower. Another strong reason: families with small children, where the anti-scalding lock (blocking above 38 °C) significantly increases safety. Without both conditions (stable pressure, properly dimensioned heating) the thermostat does not work reliably and customer frustration is high.
Conclusion: how to choose then?
Choosing the right tap is not a science, but it requires a few minutes of preparation. Let's summarize it into a simple procedure that we recommend to every customer:
- Find out the type and dimensions of your installation – center distance, thread dimensions, diameter of the mounting hole. Without these data, the choice is "blind".
- Decide on the type of tap – wall-mounted vs. wall-mounted, lever vs. thermostatic, with accessories vs. without.
- Choose the surface according to reality – not according to how it looks in the picture, but according to how you can clean it and how hard water you have in the network.
- Set a realistic budget – bathroom tap from 50 €, kitchen tap from 60 €, bathtub tap from 70 €, thermostatic shower tap from 120 €. Below these values you get a product that will require replacement in 3–5 years.
- Read the technical specification – check the minimum operating pressure, cartridge diameter and warranty. These numbers say more than a photograph.
The entire category of water taps on atria.sk is put together so that you can find products from proven manufacturers with clear parameters. Whether you are looking for classic chrome or modern satin, wall or wall-mounted solutions, simple or thermostatic – the basic principle remains the same: a good tap is one that fits your installation, meets your comfort requirements and lasts long without unnecessary repairs.