Temperature control and setting for ORAVA convectors – how to properly control heating
Control and temperature setting for ORAVA convectors – how to properly operate heating
When a customer first encounters a new electric convector, they usually expect a simple thing: set the temperature, the room heats up, done. Reality is a bit different. Quality temperature control is exactly what separates intelligent, energy-saving heating from unnecessary electricity waste – and with ORAVA convectors, this is a topic that deserves real attention. In this guide, we will go through the entire issue from the basics of thermostat regulation to practical settings for different types of rooms and life situations.
Principle of temperature regulation in an electric convector
An electric convector works on a simple physical principle: cold air is drawn in from the bottom, passes through the heating element (resistance wire or PTC ceramic element), and warm air rises to the room. The whole process is called natural convection – unlike fan heaters, the convector does not need a fan, it operates quietly and without moving mechanical parts.
Temperature regulation in convectors is carried out via a built-in thermostat that measures the air temperature near the device and turns the heating element on or off according to the set value. This is called an on-off cycle (ON/OFF regulation). When the temperature in the room drops below the set value, the thermostat turns on the element; when the desired temperature is reached, the element turns off. The more accurate the thermostat, the smaller the spread (hysteresis) between turning on and off – and the more stable the resulting temperature.
Practical consequence: the convector is not constantly running at full power. In a well-insulated room, the heating element may be active only 20–40% of the time, the rest of the time the room naturally maintains the temperature thanks to the thermal inertia of the walls and furniture. This is key to saving electrical energy – and precisely why proper regulation is so important.
Types of thermostats and control elements in ORAVA convectors
In the ORAVA range, we find several models that differ not only in power and dimensions, but also in the type of regulation. It is important to know exactly what you are dealing with.
Mechanical (rotary) thermostat
An older and simpler type, where temperature regulation is ensured by a bimetallic strip. By turning the knob, you change the spring tension that controls the contact. Advantage: durability, simplicity, zero electronics consumption. Disadvantage: less accurate setting – typical hysteresis can be as high as ±2–3 °C, which is annoying for finer regulation. The absolute temperature value on the scale may not correspond to the actual temperature in the room – you need to find the right position of the knob by trial and error.
Electronic thermostat with digital display
A more modern approach, where an NTC sensor or thermistor measures the actual temperature and a microprocessor controls the switching on and off. The accuracy of the setting is usually ±0.5 °C, which is excellent for regular heating. An advantage is also the possibility to see the current temperature on the display, to set the target temperature in individual degrees, and to use programming.
Programmable thermostat with weekly program
The most comfortable option. It allows you to pre-program different temperature profiles for different times of the day and days of the week. For example: on workdays from 6:00 to 7:30, comfortable temperature 21 °C, from 7:30 to 15:30, reduced temperature 16 °C (nobody is at home), from 15:30 to 22:00 again 21 °C and at night 18 °C. Such regulation can reduce energy consumption by 20–35 % compared to continuous heating at full power.
ORAVA convectors – specific models and their regulation
Let’s take a closer look at the models currently available. Each has slightly different control options and is suitable for different situations.
ORAVA EK-2003 is an electric convector with a built-in thermostat, offering regulation suitable for typical residential spaces. The model is suitable for smaller to medium-sized rooms – the regulation is simple and intuitive, which is especially appreciated by users who do not require complex automation, but reliable and stable heating with the ability to set the desired temperature.
ORAVA EK-2004 represents a slightly more powerful variant in the EK series. Temperature regulation operates on the same thermostat principle, with higher output meaning faster warm-up – the room temperature is reached sooner and the thermostat then maintains thermal comfort with less strain on the grid. For larger rooms or spaces with poor thermal insulation, this is a more practical choice.
The VL series represents floor-standing (floor) convectors. ORAVA VL-202 and ORAVA VL-201 are mobile devices that you can move between rooms as needed. Temperature regulation is either handled by a rotary thermostat or a simple electronic control. Mobility is their main advantage – if you need to temporarily heat a garage, workshop, bathroom, or guest room, it is not necessary to install an additional fixed appliance.
How to correctly set the temperature – step by step
Correctly setting the thermostat is not just about making the room warm. It is about finding a balance between comfort and energy consumption. Below is the procedure I recommend to customers when setting up the convector for the first time.
Step 1: Correct placement of the convector
The thermostat measures the air temperature near the device. If the convector is installed in a draft, near a window, or in corners with thermal bridges, the measured values may not correspond to the actual temperature in the center of the room. The ideal placement is under a window (to compensate for the cold air falling from the window) or on an external wall. More about correct installation can be found in the topic Mounting the ORAVA convector on the wall – instructions and common installation errors in our Knowledge Center.
Step 2: First start-up – calibration of perceived temperature
For models with a mechanical thermostat: set the knob to the middle position (usually marked as 20 °C or similar). After 45–60 minutes, measure the actual room temperature with a thermometer at a height of 1.5 m from the floor, away from the convector. If the difference is large, adjust the knob position and note the corresponding actual temperature. This one-time "mapping" of the scale will save a lot of frustration later.
Step 3: Setting the comfortable temperature
Recommended temperatures by room type and purpose:
- Living room, office: 20–22 °C – comfortable zone for longer stays
- Bedroom: 17–19 °C – lower temperature supports quality sleep
- Bathroom: 22–24 °C – higher temperature for comfort when changing clothes
- Children's room: 20–22 °C – also consider the child's activities
- Corridor, entrance hall: 16–18 °C – transit space, lower requirements
- Garage, workshop: 10–15 °C – protection against freezing, working conditions
Step 4: Setting the setback temperature
The setback temperature is the temperature at which the convector maintains the room during your absence or at night. An optimal setback is 4–6 °C below the comfortable temperature. For example: comfortable temperature 21 °C, setback temperature 16–17 °C. A sharper drop (e.g., to 10 °C) is not advisable, as reheating the room afterward takes longer and consumes more energy than maintaining a mild setback.
Step 5: Programming (if the model supports it)
For programmable models, set the time slots for weekdays and weekends separately. A typical workday: morning (6:00–7:30) comfort, midday and afternoon (7:30–16:00) setback, evening (16:00–22:00) comfort, night (22:00–6:00) sleep temperature. Weekend: longer morning comfort period, no setback during the day.
Thermostat and open windows – the most common mistake
From practice, I know that the most common mistake people make is ventilating a room with a running convector without first turning it off or lowering the temperature. When you open a window, the air temperature near the convector drops sharply – the thermostat will interpret this as a temperature deficit and will turn the heating on to maximum. Result: the convector heats into the open window, consumption goes up, and the room still does not warm up. The correct procedure is either to turn off the convector before ventilating or to switch it to frost protection mode (if available), and then set the desired temperature again after closing the window.
More modern models with electronic thermostats may have a window open detection function – when the temperature drops rapidly (e.g., by more than 4 °C in 5 minutes), the heating is automatically turned off and waits until the temperature stabilizes. This feature significantly contributes to energy savings.
Impact of placement on regulation accuracy
The accuracy of the thermostat depends not only on the quality of the electronics, but also on where the convector is physically located. The thermostat measures the temperature of the air drawn in from below – that is, the temperature at floor level and the lower part of the room. If there are sources of cold air currents (leaky doors, floor gaps, cold air flow from an external wall) in that part of the room, the thermostat will assess the room as colder than it actually is at the height where we move. This can lead to overheating of the upper part of the space.
Solution: for problematic rooms, I recommend placing the convector on the wall where the greatest source of heat loss is – usually the external perimeter wall or the wall under a large window. The warm air rising upwards creates so-called thermal curtain in front of the window and prevents cold from entering the comfortable zone of the room.
Control of multiple convectors in one household
In practice, I often encounter situations where a household has multiple convectors – each in a different room. A few principles apply here:
- Control each convector separately – there is no "central temperature," each room has different heat losses and different requirements.
- Keep unoccupied rooms at a low setting – a guest room that you do not use does not need to be at 21 °C. 14–15 °C is sufficient as a protection against moisture and mold.
- Coordinate low-setting periods – if you are leaving the house, set the low setting in all rooms simultaneously. For models without a programmer, you can use external timers in the socket (for floor-standing models from the VL series).
- Watch out for electrical load – if you have multiple convectors in your household, there may be an issue with circuit breakers. More about dimensioning can be read in the topic Installation of the electric boiler ORAVA – procedure, requirements and what the electrician must do.
External thermostats and smart control
Convector with a mechanical thermostat can be supplemented with an external programmable thermostat – either wired or wireless. The external thermostat is placed in an ideal location in the room (usually on an interior wall at a height of 1.5 m, away from direct sunlight and heat sources), the convector is set to maximum and the entire regulation is taken over by the external device, which controls the power supply to the convector.
Advantages of an external thermostat:
- More accurate temperature measurement at a representative location in the room
- Weekly programming option even for models with a basic thermostat
- Wi-Fi thermostats allow control via smartphone – if you unexpectedly return home, you can turn on the heating in advance
- Some models support integration into smart home systems (Google Home, Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit)
Warning: the external thermostat must be dimensioned for the convector's power. Common Wi-Fi thermostats can handle a load of 3–3.5 kW. For more powerful convectors, either a relay output from the thermostat or an external relay with sufficient capacity is required. This should be assessed by an electrician – it is not complicated, but it must be done correctly.
Frost protection mode and safety function
Most ORAVA convectors have so-called frost protection or anti-frost mode, marked by a snowflake symbol or temperature of 5–7 °C. In this mode, the convector maintains temperature only at a level that prevents freezing of pipes and damage to devices sensitive to frost. This is an ideal setting for:
- Cabins and recreational buildings during winter (when you are not present)
- Technical rooms, basements, garages with water supply lines
- Longer absence in an apartment building (holiday, business trip)
Practical experience: in mountain cabins that are not regularly visited, we have found it effective to keep the convector in frost protection mode throughout the winter. Electricity costs are minimal (the convector runs only occasionally), but the building remains protected against moisture and frost. Upon arrival, it takes only a few hours for the space to reach a comfortable temperature.
Economic mode and correct switching between comfort and low setting
Many electronic models offer so-called ECO or economic mode. It is an automatic setting where the thermostat works at a lower temperature than in comfort mode (usually 3–4 °C less). Do not confuse it with frost protection mode – economic mode is still at an inhabitable temperature (typically 16–18 °C), it just reduces energy consumption.
From the perspective of savings, the most effective combination is: a programmable weekly schedule with clearly defined comfort and low-setting periods. According to various measurements, well-set regulation can reduce electricity consumption for heating by 25–40 % compared to constant heating at a comfortable temperature. More about the economic operation can be read in the topic ORAVA electric heating and energy consumption – how to reduce heating costs.
Adjusting temperature in different seasons
Convector regulation is not a one-time task – the optimal setting changes with the outside temperature. In mild transitional periods (autumn, spring), you do not need to maintain the same temperature as in January. If it is 10 °C outside, heat losses are significantly lower than at −15 °C – the convector can handle this to some extent on its own (the thermostat reacts to the actual temperature), but with a mechanical thermostat, it may be advantageous to manually reduce the set temperature by 1–2 °C during the transitional period, because passive gains (sunlight through windows, heat from cooking, people and appliances) will cover the rest.
This is an area where experienced electric heating users differ significantly from beginners. An experienced user knows that on a sunny March day with an outside temperature of 8 °C, they can lower the setting by 2 degrees and the room will still have the same comfortable temperature – thanks to solar gains through south-facing windows. This is a potential saving of several kWh per day, which can significantly affect the electricity bill in the long-term operation.
Safety features and their relation to regulation
Modern ORAVA convectors are equipped with several safety features that directly affect temperature regulation:
- Overheat protection thermostat: If for some reason (clogged filter, covered convector) the temperature of the heating element exceeds a safe limit, the device automatically turns off. After cooling down, you can turn it on again.
- Tiptoover protection (for standing models): Models ORAVA VL-201 and ORAVA VL-202 as standing devices must have protection against tipping – in case of a fall, the contact automatically disconnects the power supply. This function does not affect normal temperature regulation, but is critical from a safety perspective (especially in households with children and pets).
- Open window detection: As mentioned above, some electronic models detect a rapid drop in temperature and temporarily stop heating.
Most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is my ORAVA convector continuously heating at full power and the thermostat is not responding?
The most common cause is either a faulty thermostat or incorrect placement of the convector (airflow near the device causes the thermostat to not detect the actual room temperature). Check whether the convector is placed away from a source of cold air. If the problem persists, it may be a mechanical failure of the thermostat – in this case, we recommend contacting the service. More information in the topic Common faults of ORAVA electric boilers and how to eliminate them.
What is the difference between setting the temperature to 20 °C and 22 °C in terms of energy consumption?
Each additional degree Celsius increases heating energy consumption by approximately 6–8%. The difference between 20 °C and 22 °C therefore represents roughly 12–16% higher consumption. In a standard apartment with a single 2 kW convector, this can amount to a difference of several tens of euros during the heating season. Therefore, it is worthwhile to set the temperature according to actual needs, not "just in case" a couple of degrees higher.
Can I connect an ORAVA convector to an external WiFi thermostat?
Yes, most convectors can be connected to an external thermostat with a relay output. The convector is set to the maximum temperature and the regulation is taken over by the external thermostat, which controls the power supply. It is important that the thermostat is dimensioned for the convector's power (pay attention to the maximum current the relay can handle). WiFi thermostats for standard models up to 2 kW are commonly available. For models with higher power, it is better to use a thermostat with an external relay.
Is it sensible to leave the convector in frost protection mode over the weekend when we are away?
When away for 2–3 days, it is more advantageous to set the setback mode (16–17 °C) rather than frost protection mode (5–7 °C). The reason: reheating a cold room (7 °C) to 21 °C takes several hours and consumes significantly more energy than maintaining a mild setback. Frost protection mode is suitable for longer absences (a week or more) or for rooms where a livable temperature is not required during absence.
Why is my convector not maintaining the set temperature – it alternates between too hot and too cold?
This is due to excessive thermostat hysteresis – common in older mechanical models. The difference between the on and off temperatures can be 3–4 °C, which some users perceive as uncomfortable. The solution is to either replace it with a model with an electronic thermostat (accuracy ±0.5 °C), or to add an external digital thermostat with lower hysteresis. Also check whether the convector is placed in a location with direct sunlight – this can cause false thermostat shutdowns.
Is it more cost-effective to heat continuously at a lower temperature or to heat at a higher temperature only when we are at home?
The answer depends on the thermal insulation of the building. In a well-insulated new building (low-energy standard), continuous heating at a mild temperature is worthwhile – heat loss is minimal and reheating is relatively costly. In an old, poorly insulated house (high heat loss), on the other hand, a significant setback during absence is more cost-effective – the building loses heat quickly anyway, so maintaining a higher temperature when no one is present is unnecessary waste. For a more detailed comparison, see the topic What power ORAVA electric boiler do I need for my household.
Conclusion – regulation determines comfort and costs
Proper regulation and temperature setting of ORAVA convectors is not technically complicated – but it does require some attention and understanding of how the whole system works. A mechanical thermostat is simple and reliable, but less accurate. An electronic thermostat with programming is an investment that pays off in the form of lower electricity bills and greater comfort. External WiFi thermostats take regulation to an even higher level – remote control, integration with smart home and detailed consumption statistics.
Regardless of the model you choose – whether it is ORAVA EK-2003, ORAVA EK-2004 or one of the standing models VL-201 and VL-202 – the same principles apply: set the temperature according to actual needs, use setback periods during absence and leave frost protection mode for longer absences. These simple habits can reduce your electric heating costs by tens of percent annually without any reduction in comfort.
Do you have a question about this topic?
Not sure how to decide or dealing with a specific situation in your household? Write to us – we are happy to help.