Mounting the ORAVA convector on the wall – guide and common installation mistakes

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Wall mounting of ORAVA convector – complete guide and common installation errors

An electric convector seems to be a simple device – plugging it into the wall and into a socket looks trivial. Practice says something else. During years of contract work I have seen dozens of ORAVA convector installations where something went wrong – from minor details that reduce efficiency to serious safety issues that could end in a malfunction or even a fire. I wrote this guide so that you can avoid all these errors and your convector will serve reliably, safely and with the lowest possible energy consumption.

This article is primarily intended for DIY installation – for people who are handy, know how to work with tools and are not complete beginners in electrical engineering. It also serves as a checklist for those who want to verify whether the installer did the job correctly. If you are considering which model to choose before the actual installation, see our guide How to choose an electric boiler or ORAVA convector – what to focus on first.

What you need to know before drilling – preparation and planning

The installation of a convector starts long before the actual drilling. The first thing you need to clarify is the power of the device and its power consumption. Standard ORAVA convectors have power ratings from 500 W (small models for bathrooms or hallways) up to 2,000–2,500 W (models for larger spaces). The difference is not only in how much heat they produce, but also in what electrical wiring they need.

A convector with a power of up to 2,000 W can be connected to a standard 230 V / 16 A socket. A convector with higher power or a dual-circuit model, however, may require a fixed connection – without a plug, directly to a terminal block. This threshold is important. More about how to determine the correct power for your room can be found in the article What power of ORAVA electric boiler do I need for my household.

Checking the existing electrical wiring

Before installation, check these parameters of the existing wiring in the room:

Cable cross-section: for a convector up to 2,000 W, a 3 × 1.5 mm² cable is sufficient, for a power of 2,000–3,500 W you need at least 3 × 2.5 mm²
Circuit breaker in the distribution board: for a 1.5 mm² cable, a maximum of 16 A circuit breaker, for 2.5 mm² up to 20 A
Presence of grounding (PE): ORAVA convectors must be grounded, operation without a protective conductor is prohibited
Type of protection in the bathroom: if you install a convector in a bathroom, it must be in the protective zone (zone 2 or higher) and equipped with a residual current device (RCD) of 30 mA

If you are unsure about the parameters of the wiring, have it checked by an electrician. The cost of one hour of an electrician is significantly lower than the cost of repairing damage from a fire caused by an overloaded cable.

Choosing the right place on the wall

This is probably the most important decision of the entire installation. The convector must be placed so that it works efficiently – and this means following several physical principles and practical requirements.

Where to place the convector – basic rules

Height above the floor: Convectors work on the principle of natural convection – cold air enters from below, heats up and rises upwards. Therefore, they are mounted low on the floor, ideally so that the bottom edge of the device is 10–15 cm above the floor. The maximum height of the bottom edge should not exceed 30 cm above the floor. A higher installation drastically reduces efficiency – warm air remains at the ceiling, and your feet are still cold.

Placement under the window: A classic and recommended solution. Under the window is the so-called cold zone – a place where the greatest heat losses occur. A convector placed under the window compensates for these losses and prevents condensation on the glass. It practically works by creating a thermal curtain in front of the window with the rising warm air.

Distance from furniture and other objects: The sides of the convector must have at least 30 cm of free space. In front of the device (the direction from which the warm air comes out) there must be at least 50 cm of free space. Under the device there must be at least 10–15 cm of free space (hence the low installation). Curtains, drapes or furniture must not cover the air intake or outlet – overheating and reduced lifespan are a risk.

Where not to place the convector:

Behind doors or in corners, where air circulation is insufficient
On external walls without sufficient insulation (the wall will condense moisture)
Over a bathroom tub or shower (protective zones)
On walls with insufficient load-bearing capacity (gypsum drywall without proper anchoring)
Directly above sockets or other electrical components

Required Tools and Materials

Proper preparation saves time and nerves. Before installation, prepare:

Hammer drill or impact drill (for masonry/concrete) – masonry bits with diameter according to the anchor, usually 8 mm or 10 mm
Water level (at least 60 cm long) – absolutely essential, don't try without it
Pencil and measuring tape – for measuring and marking the position
Screwdriver or electric screwdriver with appropriate bits
Multimeter – to verify voltage and polarity before connecting
Hidden wire and pipe detector – mandatory before drilling
Anchors and screws – usually included in the package, but I recommend having a larger size in stock for unexpected wall materials
Silicone or sealant – to seal the cable holes through the wall (important for vapor barrier)

Step-by-step Installation Procedure

We are now moving to the actual process. I will describe the installation procedure for a typical convector ORAVA EK-2003 or ORAVA EK-2004 mounted on a masonry wall. Some differences apply for plasterboard or other materials, which I will point out separately.

Step 1 – Inspection and Wall Preparation

Before any drilling, scan the entire installation area with a hidden wire detector. Electrical wiring, water pipes, and anchoring elements in the wall must be located. Pay special attention to the area below and above the planned position of the convector – electrical wiring is commonly run vertically upwards from the socket.

Also check the wall moisture. If the wall is wet (e.g., after renovation, in an external part of the house), wait until it dries. Installation on a wet wall leads to problems with anchoring and can damage the device.

Step 2 – Marking the Mounting Bracket Position

Most ORAVA convectors come with a mounting bracket (hanging bracket), which is screwed to the wall and the convector is then mounted on it. The marking procedure is as follows:

Determine the height of the bottom edge of the convector – I recommend 12 cm above the floor (a compromise between efficiency and convenient cleaning under the device)
Calculate the height of the mounting bracket: add the thickness of the convector base (usually 6–10 cm depending on the model) to the height of the bottom edge – you can find this value in the documentation
Mark a horizontal line with a pencil using the water level
Place the mounting bracket on this line and mark the hole positions
Check the water level again – the mounting bracket must be perfectly horizontal, otherwise the entire convector will be tilted (which is not only an aesthetic issue, but can also affect the function of the thermostatic valve)

Step 3 – Drilling and Mounting Bracket Anchoring

Drill perpendicular to the wall – a crooked hole will cause the anchor to not sit firmly. For masonry walls (brick, aerated concrete, concrete), use a hammer drill with a masonry bit of the appropriate diameter (most commonly 8 mm for 8 × 40 or 8 × 60 mm anchors).

Important for aerated concrete (Ytong): Standard anchors do not hold in aerated concrete. For this material, special anchors for aerated concrete (e.g. type SB or chemical anchor) are available, which distribute the load over a larger area. Ignoring this rule leads to the convector falling off the wall – and this is not a hypothetical threat, I have seen it multiple times.

For plasterboard: Anchoring points must be either on a load-bearing profile (CW or UW), or you must use special plasterboard anchors (molly, chemical anchor through plasterboard into the cavity). A standard convector weighs 5–12 kg and a plasterboard sheet without support can only bear this load for a short time.

After drilling, blow out the dust from the holes (dust shortens the life of the anchor), insert the anchors and screw the mounting bracket. Check the water level once again – at this point, correction is simple, later it is not.

Step 4 – Electrical Connection Preparation

If the convector is connected via a plug to a socket, make sure that:

The socket is within reach of the convector cable without stretching (the cable must not be under tension)
The socket has a grounding contact
The socket is on its own circuit or at least not overloaded by other appliances
The cable runs behind the convector or in a cable raceway – not freely on the floor, where it can be cut or tripped over

For a fixed connection (directly to the terminal block without a plug, which requires an electrician), the supply must be brought to the convector terminal block location. The terminal block is usually accessible after removing the cover on the side or bottom of the device. The method of connection is always found in the manual for the respective model.

Step 5 – Mounting the Convector on the Bracket

The convector is usually mounted from above onto the mounting bracket and clicks in or is secured with screws. Before mounting, check that the cable is properly routed and not placed in a way that the convector could compress it when mounted. After mounting, gently shake the convector – it should sit firmly without rattling or play. If it moves, check the tightening of the bracket and the correct positioning of the hooks.

Step 6 – First start-up and inspection

Before the first start-up, make sure there are no flammable materials around the convector (curtains, cardboard boxes, laminate floor with plastic skirting boards placed directly in front of the device). Turn the convector on to maximum power for 15–20 minutes and observe:

Whether the device produces warm air (can be felt when placing a hand above the device)
Whether any unusual odors appear (when starting a new device for the first time, a slight plastic smell is normal and will disappear after 30 minutes)
Whether the thermostat reacts correctly – if a lower temperature is set than the current room temperature, the convector should turn off
Whether there is no sound of creaking or knocking (may indicate a loose installation)

Common installation errors with ORAVA convectors – and how to avoid them

This is the section many readers go through the whole article for. From practice, I know that the same mistakes repeat over and over again – regardless of whether the installation is done by a layperson or a so-called experienced craftsman.

Mistake No. 1 – Mounting too high

The most common mistake of all. The customer wants the convector to be "nicely visible" or the installer mounts it at a height where the work is more comfortable. Result: the bottom edge of the convector is 60–80 cm above the floor. At this height, the feet remain cold on the floor, the heat rises directly upwards and the air under the ceiling is overheated, while the thermostat measures a "comfortable" temperature in the middle of the room. Energy consumption increases, comfort decreases. Correct height: 10–15 cm above the floor, maximum 20–25 cm.

Mistake No. 2 – Ignoring obstructions and obstacles

Curtains, drapes, long radiator covers, stickers glued to side walls – all of this hinders natural convection. I have seen a convector mounted right next to a corner piece of furniture so that the air circulated only in a small area. Result: the device works non-stop, the room remains cold and energy consumption is twice as high as it should be.

Mistake No. 3 – Using the wrong anchor in aerated concrete or drywall

A wall made of aerated concrete with standard anchors may seem to be fine – the convector holds nicely. However, after 6 months of continuous operation (vibrations, thermal cycles), the anchor starts to loosen. The convector begins to tilt slightly, then suddenly falls out. In the best case, it ends with scratches on the floor, in the worst case with a torn cable and sparks. In drywall without a frame, the situation is the same – perhaps even worse, because the drywall board deforms under load.

Mistake No. 4 – Missing grounding or incorrect polarity

This mistake is not visible, but it is dangerous. A convector without grounding is a silent threat – in the case of insulation failure, the device's housing becomes live and touching it can be fatal. Measuring with a multimeter before connecting is a requirement, not a recommendation. If you have no experience with electrical installation, entrust the wiring to an electrician – it is a matter of the safety of your whole family.

Mistake No. 5 – Routing the cable behind the convector without thermal protection

The convector produces a surface temperature of 50–70 °C. A cable brought from the top and routed directly behind the device is exposed to this temperature for a long time. Standard rubber insulation can handle it, but cheap cables from home centers cannot. Solution: route the cable from the side or from below, outside the thermal field of the device. If you have to route the cable behind the device, use a cable with a temperature resistance of at least 90 °C (marked H05RN-F or H07RN-F).

Mistake No. 6 – Setting thermostats to maximum "because it should regulate itself"

Technically, this is not a mistake during installation, but it is a mistake during the operation of the customer. A thermostat set to maximum means the convector runs until the room reaches 30+ °C. Then it turns off, but very little time passes until the next cycle and the whole day runs at 100% load. Correct setting of thermostats and regulation can be found in the article Thermostat control and temperature setting for ORAVA convectors – how to properly operate heating.

Special cases – bathroom, attic, entrance

Installation in the bathroom

The bathroom is a special case. The standards STN EN 60364-7-701 (equivalent IEC) apply here, which define protective zones. In zone 0 (inside the bathtub/shower area) any electrical installation is prohibited. In zone 1 (directly above the bathtub up to a height of 2.25 m) only devices with IP45 or higher protection and connected via a SELV transformer are allowed. In zone 2 (60 cm from the edge of the bathtub/shower area) devices must have at least IP44 protection and be protected by a 30 mA RCD.

Convector heaters for bathrooms, such as ORAVA VL-202 or ORAVA VL-201, are designed with a higher degree of protection and are suitable for a humid environment. Nevertheless, check the technical documentation to see which zone the specific model is approved for. Never install a standard living room convector in a bathroom – IP20 or IP21 protection is not approved for a humid environment.

Installation in the attic

The attic has specific requirements: it overheats extremely in summer and is the coldest place in the house in winter. Thermal insulation of walls and roof is key – a convector in an uninsulated attic has no chance of working efficiently. Before installing a convector in an attic, it is essential to assess the condition of thermal insulation. More about selecting the right power for attic spaces can be found in the article What power of ORAVA electric boiler do I need for my household.

Entrance and corridor

The entrance usually has a smaller area and weaker thermal load, but it is a space with the highest human traffic and constant door opening. A thermostat in the entrance is exposed to sharp temperature fluctuations (every opening of external doors in winter). Solution: a programmable thermostat with temperature hysteresis or an external sensor in a more stable location.

Difference between convector and "gas" or central heating – what affects installation

The electric convector ORAVA is less demanding in terms of installation compared to central heating or a gas boiler – it does not require water piping, exhaust of combustion gases or a chimney. But precisely because it is simple, its installation is often underestimated. If you are interested in a broader context and a comparison of both systems, see the article Electric boiler vs. ORAVA convector – which type of heating is more worthwhile.

The installation of an electric boiler (not a convector) is fundamentally different – it requires a three-phase connection, fixed installation, professional supervision and inspection. If you are interested in boiler installation, we have a separate article Installation of the ORAVA electric boiler – procedure, requirements and what the electrician must do.

Checklist after installation is completed

Before you consider the installation complete, go through this checklist:

☐ The convector is horizontally level (spirit level)
☐ The bottom edge is at maximum 15–20 cm above the floor
☐ The mounting strip is firmly fixed – no play when shaken
☐ The cable is routed outside the thermal area of the convector
☐ The grounding is properly connected (verified with a multimeter)
☐ There is at least 50 cm of free space in front of the convector
☐ No curtains or drapes cover the air intake/outlet
☐ The device has gone through a test cycle without smell, smoke or abnormal noise
☐ The thermostat has been set to a reasonable temperature (not maximum)
☐ In the bathroom: verified IP protection level and presence of RCD 30 mA

Common questions (FAQ)

Can I install the ORAVA convector myself, or do I need to call an electrician?

If you connect the convector via a standard plug into an existing socket, you can install it yourself – mounting on the wall and plugging into a socket is not a reserved electrician task. However, if you need a new electrical circuit (a new cable from the distribution board), a fixed connection without a plug or installation in a bathroom, it is mandatory to have the work done by a qualified electrician and to obtain an inspection certificate.

What is the correct height for mounting the convector above the floor?

The bottom edge of the convector should be 10–15 cm above the floor. This is the optimal compromise between convection efficiency (cold air enters from below), convenient maintenance and cleaning under the device. The maximum is approximately 25–30 cm – above this value, efficiency drops significantly. A convector mounted at waist height or higher works with significantly lower efficiency.

Can I have a carpet or laminate flooring directly under the ORAVA convector?

A carpet or laminate flooring directly under the convector is not prohibited, but it is necessary to maintain a minimum distance of 10 cm between the bottom of the device and the floor surface. A high-pile or thick carpet can block the intake of cold air from below. Synthetic carpets and PVC skirting boards directly in front of the convector may be exposed to increased heat – check whether the floor manufacturer specifies heat resistance near heating appliances.

The ORAVA convector buzzes or makes a tapping sound – is this normal?

Light buzzing or cracking during heating and cooling is normal – it is caused by thermal expansion of plastic parts. Loud buzzing, continuous tapping or vibrations may indicate: a loose mounting strip (the convector moves on the strip), an internal object (e.g. insect, large amount of dust) or a heating element fault. Turn off the device and check the fastening. If the problem persists, contact service. For more information on common faults, read the article Common faults of ORAVA electric boilers and how to eliminate them.

Do I need to remove the convector from the wall when painting the room?

We recommend yes – at least remove the convector from the mounting strip (the strip can remain on the wall). It is a quick job (depending on the model, usually 5 minutes), protects the surface and interior of the device from paint and thinner and gives you better access to the wall. Always disconnect the convector from the power supply before removing it.

Is it worthwhile to place the convector on an exterior wall?

An exterior wall is suboptimal for placing a convector, but not prohibited. The problem is that the wall is cold and the device loses part of the heat to the wall instead of into the room. If the wall is well insulated (at least 10 cm of mineral wool or equivalent), the difference is small. On an uninsulated exterior wall, condensation of water vapor behind the device can occur, which can damage the wall and the device over time. In such a case, it is better to consider placing it under a window on the inner part of the perimeter wall, where this effect is naturally compensated by the convection curtain.

Conclusion – attention to detail during installation pays off

The electric convector ORAVA is a reliable device with a simple design and minimal maintenance requirements. But like any other device, it works properly only if it is correctly installed. Most of the problems customers bring to the service or seller stem from installation errors – not from manufacturing defects. Correct height, proper fastening, sufficient air space around the device and safe electrical connection – these are four pillars on which long life and comfortable operation stand.

If you are considering multiple convectors for your home or planning a more complex electric heating system, you may also be interested in an overview of overall consumption and optimization options in the article ORAVA electric heating and energy consumption – how to reduce heating costs. Alternatively, if you are still deciding whether to choose a convector or an electric boiler, read the comparison in the article Electric boiler vs. ORAVA convector – which type of heating is more worthwhile.

Do you have a question about this topic?

Still undecided or dealing with a specific situation in your home? Write to us – we are happy to help.