Frequently asked questions about ORAVA electric boilers and convector heaters

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Frequently asked questions about ORAVA electric boilers and convector heaters – comprehensive overview of answers

When customers decide to choose ORAVA electric heating, they often come with a whole range of questions – from basic technical parameters, through proper installation, to everyday operation and troubleshooting. In this article, we have gathered dozens of real questions that we repeatedly hear, and we have answered them as an experienced technician would, who has installed and serviced these devices in hundreds of households. We don’t exaggerate anything, nor do we hide anything.

What does the ORAVA brand offer in the field of electric heating?

ORAVA is not a newcomer in the field of heating equipment. The company has long positioned itself as an affordable and reliable brand for the Slovak and Czech markets, and its electric boilers and convector heaters have gained quite a loyal user base, especially in the categories of recreational buildings, apartments, and smaller family homes.

In practice, this means that if a customer comes in and says they have a cabin in Liptov, 60 m² of area, standard ceilings, and want a simple, inexpensive solution without a central water distribution system – ORAVA convector heaters are one of the first things we talk about. Similarly, if someone is renovating an apartment and wants to keep the original radiators but disconnect the gas boiler, an ORAVA electric boiler can be a temporary or permanent solution.

The current offer on atria.sk in the ORAVA category includes two basic directions:

Electric boilers – devices that heat water in a closed loop and supply classic radiators or floor heating. These include models ORAVA EK-2003 and ORAVA EK-2004.
Electric convector heaters – direct heaters without a water loop, operating on the principle of air convection. Typical representatives are ORAVA VL-202 and ORAVA VL-201.

Each of these types has its justification, its advantages and disadvantages. A detailed comparison can be found in the article Electric boiler vs. ORAVA convector – which type of heating is more worthwhile. Here we focus on specific questions from practice.

Questions about ORAVA electric boilers (EK-2003, EK-2004)

What is the difference between EK-2003 and EK-2004?

This is by far the most common question. Both models are electric boilers for closed water loops, but they differ mainly in power and purpose:

ORAVA EK-2003 is a more compact model suitable for smaller spaces – typically apartments or smaller family homes up to about 80–100 m² of well-insulated area. It is an entry-level line with simpler regulation and lower power.
ORAVA EK-2004 is a more powerful and technologically advanced model intended for larger spaces, or for houses with poorer thermal insulation. It also features more advanced electronic regulation.

In practice, this means that if a customer has a panel apartment from the 80s, 65 m², plastic windows, and facade insulation – EK-2003 will usually be sufficient. If they have an older family house without insulation, 120 m², or if they want to power underfloor heating in the bathroom in addition, they will more likely go for EK-2004. A more detailed procedure for calculating the required power can be found in the article What power of ORAVA electric boiler do I need for my household?.

Do I need to call an electrician for the installation of an ORAVA electric boiler?

Yes, and it's not just a formality. An electric boiler is an appliance with a power of several kilowatts (typically 6–12 kW), which must be connected to a separate electrical circuit with fusing, a grounding conductor (PE), and in many cases also three-phase power supply. This is not a job that a layperson should do themselves.

There is also a practical aspect: in the case of fire or other damage, the insurance company will require proof of professional installation. A technical inspection report from an electrician is therefore a necessity not only by law, but also for the protection of your property.

The exact installation procedure, requirements for the electrical circuit, and what the electrician must check and document, can be found in the article Installation of ORAVA electric boiler – procedure, requirements, and what the electrician must do.

Can I connect an ORAVA electric boiler to existing radiators after a gas boiler?

Yes, this is one of the most practical use scenarios. If you have steel or aluminum radiators, piping, and there was a gas boiler in the house or apartment, an ORAVA electric boiler can be connected to the same system. However, a few things should be considered:

Condition of the piping – if the old pipes are clogged with deposits (corrosion sludge, limescale), it is advisable to flush the system before connecting the new boiler.
Expansion tank – electric boilers usually do not have their own expansion tank, or only a small one. Check whether the existing tank in the system is sufficient and functional.
Circulation pump – EK-2003 and EK-2004 have built-in pumps, so an external one is usually not needed.
Water temperature – ORAVA electric boilers operate with an output temperature of up to 80–85 °C, which is compatible with standard radiator systems.

What if the boiler displays an error code or shuts down?

ORAVA electric boilers have a built-in display with error diagnostics. The most common error conditions are:

Overheating (overtemp) – the boiler shuts down due to excessively high temperature. The cause is often insufficient water flow (blocked pump, closed valves) or clogged filters.
Low pressure in the system – the water pressure in the loop is below the minimum. You need to add water via the filling valve to about 1–1.5 bar.
Temperature sensor failure – requires technical inspection; sometimes cleaning the sensor contacts is sufficient.
Power outage / voltage drop – in an unstable grid, the boiler may restart automatically after power is restored.

A detailed troubleshooting guide can be found in the article Common faults of ORAVA electric boilers and how to eliminate them. Most common problems can really be handled by yourself, without service intervention.

Questions about ORAVA convectors (VL-201, VL-202)

How does the ORAVA convector actually work and why doesn't it have a water circuit?

An electric convector is a device that heats air directly – without the intermediate step of hot water. Inside it is an electric resistance element (or a tubular resistor or PTC element), through which air from the room passes. Cold air enters through the lower slot, passes through the heating element, and hot air exits through the upper grill. A natural convective circulation is created – hence the name convector.

Advantage? No pipes, no water, no pump, no expansion tank. You plug the convector into an outlet (or connect it to a fixed wiring) and it starts heating immediately. This is also the reason why convectors are used where it is not possible or economically viable to build water circuits – cottages, garden houses, garages, offices in older buildings.

The model ORAVA VL-201 is a basic convector with a manual thermostat, suitable for smaller rooms. The model ORAVA VL-202 offers electronic regulation with more precise temperature maintenance and programmable timers – this is a big advantage when used in a cottage or a recreational building, as you can set when the device should heat and to what temperature.

What area can one ORAVA convector cover?

This is a question where we need to be specific and at the same time cautious – it depends on several factors. A rough general rule for standard insulated rooms with ceiling height up to 2.6 m says 80–100 W per m². So:

Room 15 m² → you need about 1 200–1 500 W
Room 20 m² → you need about 1 600–2 000 W
Room 25 m² → you need about 2 000–2 500 W

With worse insulation (an older cottage, an unheated space behind a wall), calculate with 120–150 W/m². On the other hand, with a new building with triple glazing and contact insulation on the façade, you can go as low as 60–70 W/m².

From practical experience: customers often underestimate losses in corner rooms (two external walls), in an attic under a sloped roof, or in rooms with large north-facing windows. In those cases, always go for a higher output.

Can I leave the ORAVA convector running all day or should I turn it off?

ORAVA electric convectors are designed for continuous operation. It is not a problem to leave them running 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Temperature regulation (thermostat) automatically turns the device on and off as needed – when the desired temperature is reached, the convector turns off; when the temperature drops below the set point, it turns on again.

From an energy consumption point of view, it is smarter to use a programmable timer (available on model VL-202). Instead of the convector maintaining full temperature even when no one is in the room, you can set a night setback or a day setback when you are at work. This can reduce consumption by 20–35 %. More about this is discussed in the article ORAVA electric heating and energy consumption – how to reduce heating costs.

Do I have to mount the ORAVA convector on the wall, or can I place it on the floor?

Most ORAVA convectors are primarily designed for wall mounting – and for good reason. When the convector is low on the floor (where the coldest air layers are), the circulation works best. Wall mounting also prevents the device from tipping over, blocking the outlets (for example, furniture, curtains), and is safer in households with children or pets.

Some models have optional feet for floor placement – this is suitable, for example, in rentals, where you do not want to make holes in the wall. But you need to make sure that the lower intake and upper outlet grill are not blocked. The minimum distance from the floor during wall mounting is typically 10–15 cm.

A detailed installation procedure with dimensions and typical errors can be found in the article Mounting the ORAVA convector on the wall – instructions and common installation errors.

Questions about regulation and thermostats

What is the best thermostat for an ORAVA electric boiler or convector?

The choice of thermostat depends on the level of comfort and automation you want to achieve. There are three basic categories:

Mechanical thermostat – manual adjustment via a knob. Simple, cheap, reliable. Accuracy ±1–2 °C. Suitable for a cabin or a secondary room where sophisticated regulation is not needed.
Electronic (digital) thermostat – more accurate (±0.5 °C), possibility to display temperature on a screen, and possibly weekly schedule programming. This is the standard for most modern installations.
Smart/WiFi thermostat – control via mobile, integration with home automation. If you have a vacation property and want to preheat it remotely before arrival, this is the ideal choice. ORAVA boilers and convectors are compatible with an external WiFi thermostat connected to the terminal block.

In the ORAVA VL-202 model, the electronic thermostat is directly integrated. In boilers EK-2003 and EK-2004, the thermostat is connected via the terminal block – either directly or as a room thermostat in the reference zone room.

More about setting up regulation can be found in the article Regulation and temperature setting for ORAVA convectors – how to properly control heating.

Can I use an external WiFi thermostat to control an ORAVA boiler or convector?

Yes, and we do it quite often in practice. A typical scenario: a customer has a cabin and visits it only on weekends. They don't want to pay for heating the whole week, but want to arrive in a warm cabin. They connect a WiFi thermostat and from the couch on Thursday evening turn on heating remotely – on Friday they arrive in a warm cabin.

Technical condition: the thermostat must be compatible with an electric output (230V relay) and must be able to be connected to the boiler or convector's control circuit. In most WiFi thermostats, this is not a problem. For convectors, you need to check if the model has an output for an external thermostat – VL-202 allows this, while VL-201 is manually operated by default.

Questions about safety and electrical installation

What are the electrical requirements for ORAVA boilers and convectors?

The requirements differ significantly between boilers and convectors:

Convector models VL-201, VL-202 – single-phase power supply 230 V / 50 Hz. Power approx. 500 W to 2 500 W depending on the model. Smaller convectors can be connected to a standard socket (up to 3 500 W), while larger models are recommended to be connected to a fixed wiring due to fusing and contact reliability.
Boilers EK-2003, EK-2004 – higher power (from 6 kW upwards) usually requires three-phase power supply 3×400 V or at least a reinforced single-phase circuit with the correct wire cross-section (minimum 4 mm² Cu) and appropriate fusing (B16 to B32 depending on power). This must be designed and implemented by an electrician with the appropriate qualification.

Important: never connect an ORAVA electric boiler to an extension cord, a power cable from another device, or into a "free" socket without verifying its capacity. Fires caused by overheating of extension cords due to overload are real.

Are ORAVA convectors safe to use in the bathroom?

It depends on the specific model and its protection rating (IP rating). For use in the bathroom, the device must have at least IP24 (protection against splashing water) for zone 2 or IP44 for zone 1. Standard ORAVA convectors VL-201 and VL-202 are designed for dry areas – they are not certified for direct installation in the bathroom.

We recommend either a bathroom radiator (electric fin type) or a special convector with the appropriate IP rating for the bathroom. If you want to heat the bathroom using the ORAVA system, the most suitable option is an electric boiler EK-2003/EK-2004 with a bathroom fin radiator connected to the water circuit.

Questions about consumption and operating costs

How much electricity does an ORAVA electric boiler consume monthly?

Consumption mainly depends on two factors: the power of the device and the number of hours the boiler actually heats (not how many hours it is switched on – the thermostat regulates it). For an approximate calculation, the following applies:

Consumption [kWh] = power [kW] × number of heating hours per month × utilization coefficient

The utilization coefficient (so-called duty cycle) depends on the house insulation and outside temperature. In a well-insulated house and an average month, calculate with 30–40 % (i.e., the boiler heats about a third of the time it is switched on). In an old, poorly insulated building during January, the coefficient can be as high as 60–80 %.

Example: Boiler EK-2004 with a power of 9 kW, well-insulated house, average winter month (720 hours), coefficient 35 %:

9 kW × 720 h × 0.35 = 2 268 kWh/month

At an electricity price of 0.20 €/kWh = approx. 454 €/month. That sounds expensive – and electric heating is indeed not the cheapest source of heat. It is compensated by zero service costs, gas installation, chimney, etc. When comparing with gas or heat, a comprehensive view of total costs including investment is always necessary.

How to optimize consumption – night rates, programming of damping, proper setting – can be found in the article Electric heating ORAVA and energy consumption – how to reduce heating costs.

Is it worth asking for the night tariff DD1 or DD2 for an ORAVA electric boiler?

Yes, if you have an electric boiler as the main or only source of heat, it definitely pays off. Distribution tariff DD6 (for direct electric heating) offers cheaper electricity during so-called low tariff (NT) – typically at night and on weekends. Accumulating heat into the building mass or into a storage water heater during NT and drawing heat during the day is a classic strategy for reducing costs.

Tariff conditions vary depending on the distributor (ZSE, SSE, VSE) and the contract with the electricity supplier. Consult your electricity supplier before buying the boiler – sometimes it is necessary to have an electricity meter with two tariffs and HDO (remote switching) installed.

Questions about maintenance and lifespan

How long do ORAVA electric boilers and convector heaters last?

With proper maintenance and operation within the manufacturer's conditions, expect a service life of 10–15 years for boilers and 10–20 years for convector heaters (convector heaters have no moving parts, only the heating element and thermostat). Key factors include:

Water quality in the circuit (for boilers) – hard water with high carbonate hardness causes limescale on heating elements and significantly reduces lifespan. It is recommended to use softened water or add a corrosion/limescale inhibitor.
Cleanliness of filters – boilers usually have a mesh filter before the pump inlet. If not cleaned regularly, the pump suffers and its lifespan is reduced.
Correct pressure setting – long-term operation at low or excessively high pressure (outside the range of 0.8–2.5 bar) strains the seals and automation.
For convector heaters – regular cleaning of air outlets and intake grilles from dust. A dusty grille reduces air flow, the element overheats, and the lifespan of the heating element is reduced.

A detailed maintenance and cleaning schedule can be found in the article Maintenance and servicing of ORAVA electric boiler – what and how often to check.

Questions when choosing – what customers often confuse most

Will I need one or more ORAVA convector heaters?

This is a question where customers often make mistakes in both directions – either they buy one powerful convector for the whole apartment (not practical – heat won't spread evenly), or they buy a too weak device that doesn't suffice. The correct answer is: one convector per room, dimensioned for the given area.

The advantage of this approach is clear: you regulate each room separately. A children's room can have 23 °C, a hallway 18 °C, a bathroom (if the type is suitable) 22 °C. You save energy by not heating unoccupied rooms.

In practice, customers often come with the idea that they want "one powerful convector for the whole apartment". After explaining this principle, most end up with two to three properly dimensioned convector heaters. This is a higher initial investment, but a more advantageous solution in the long run.

How to decide between an ORAVA boiler and a convector heater?

A brief practical tip:

If you have existing radiators and piping → electric boiler (EK-2003 or EK-2004)
If it's a new build or a building without piping → convector heaters (VL-201, VL-202)
If you are heating the whole house → boiler (centralized, more efficient)
If you are heating only 1–3 rooms → convector heaters (easier installation, lower initial cost)
If it's a recreational property with irregular use → convector heaters with programmable thermostats

A detailed comparison with a specific calculation can be found in the article How to choose an ORAVA electric boiler or convector heater – what to focus on.

Most frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Can I use the ORAVA electric boiler EK-2003 or EK-2004 for heating hot water for use?

ORAVA electric boilers of the EK series are primarily designed for closed heating circuits, not for preparing hot water for use (HWU). They do not have a built-in tank or heat exchanger for HWU. If you want heating and hot water, you need either a separate electric water heater or a combined system. The ORAVA EK boiler can be connected to an external storage heater via a return pipe, but this requires proper dimensioning and preparation of the hydraulic scheme – consult an installer.

Is it possible to control the ORAVA electric convector heater VL-202 with a remote control or via an app?

The VL-202 model in the basic version does not have built-in WiFi or remote control. However, it has an output for an external thermostat. If you purchase a compatible WiFi thermostat (e.g., from Danfoss, Honeywell or other manufacturers) and connect it to the control circuit of the convector heater, you can achieve control via a smartphone. This is a common practice, technically simple, but you need to check the compatibility of the thermostat with the output signal of the VL-202 (standard 230V relay).

What to do if the ORAVA convector heater emits an unpleasant odor when first turned on?

When a new convector heater is first turned on, it is normal for a slight smell to appear – this is due to the evaporation of protective coatings, dust from production and storage, or the heating element during the first heating. The odor should disappear after 30–60 minutes of operation at full power and in a well-ventilated room. If it persists longer or is very intense, check whether there are any dirt or foreign objects on the body. If the smell persists after repeated switching on, contact the seller – it may be a product defect.

What is the warranty on ORAVA EK-2003, EK-2004, VL-201 and VL-202 products?

The legal warranty in the Slovak Republic is 24 months from the date of purchase. A warranty repair can be claimed at an authorized seller or service center. Note: the warranty does not cover damage caused by non-professional installation, operation in violation of the manual (e.g., boiler operation without water in the circuit), mechanical damage or improper maintenance. Therefore, always keep the purchase receipt and service record from the electrician who performed the installation.

Can I install an ORAVA electric boiler or convector heater myself without an electrician?

For convector heaters with a power of up to 3,500 W connected to a socket – yes, if you have basic electrical knowledge and a suitable socket is available. For convector heaters connected to a fixed wiring and for all electric boilers – no, the installation must be performed by an electrician with the appropriate qualification (professional competence according to Decree 508/2009 Coll.). In addition to the safety risk, it is important to note that without an inspection report, you may lose warranty claims and insurance coverage in the event of damage.

What is the correct water pressure in the circuit of the ORAVA electric boiler?

The recommended operating pressure in the cold state is 1.0–1.5 bar. In the hot state (at operating temperature), the pressure increases to 1.5–2.0 bar – this is normal and desirable. If the pressure drops below 0.8 bar, the boiler may turn off with an error message (low pressure). Add water through the filling valve to a value of 1.2–1.5 bar in the cold state. If the pressure drops repeatedly, it is a sign of a leak in the system or a faulty expansion tank – this needs to be addressed by a professional.

Conclusion – why electric heating with ORAVA is worth considering with common sense

Electric heating with ORAVA – whether it is boilers EK-2003, EK-2004 or convector heaters VL-201 and VL-202 – is not a solution for everyone, but for the right type of building and situation, it is an excellent choice. It does not require a chimney, there is no dependence on gas supply, installation is faster and cheaper than other systems, and with reasonable regulation, operating costs are acceptable.

The key is correct dimensioning (so you don't buy a weak device and heat at full power all the time), correct installation (don't skip the electrician, don't save on fuses and wires) and reasonable regulation (timer, dimming, night tariff). These three pillars determine whether you will be satisfied with the system for years, or become a customer who says that "electric heating is expensive" – and has a convector heater without a thermostat, running at full power 24/7.

If you are unsure about the choice, dimensioning or installation process, go through other articles in our Knowledge Center or consult us directly – we are happy to help you find a solution that makes technical and financial sense.

Do you have a question on this topic?

Can't decide or are you dealing with a specific situation in your household? Write to us – we are happy to advise.