Frequently asked questions about home water pumping stations

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Common questions about home water pumping systems with submersible pumps – a comprehensive guide

If you have ever dealt with supplying water to a family house, cottage, or garden from your own source, you have probably come across the term home water pumping system with a submersible pump. Although it is technically a relatively manageable device, in practice, hundreds of questions arise during its selection, installation, and operation – some basic, others quite specific. In this article, we have gathered the ones we hear most often and answer them with technical depth, which simply does not appear in brief product descriptions.

This article is primarily intended for owners of family houses and cottages with their own well or borehole, who are either planning the installation of a water pumping system or dealing with problems with an existing system. You will find specific numbers, real-life scenarios from practice, and clear diagrams here.

What is a home water pumping system with a submersible pump and how does it differ from a surface pump?

A home water pumping system with a submersible pump is a complete system for automatic water supply to a building from an underground source – a well or borehole. It consists of a submersible electric motor pump placed directly in the water, a pressure tank (hydrophore tank), a pressure switch, electrical installation, and the necessary piping.

The key difference from a surface pump lies in the placement of the pump: a surface pump stands next to the well on dry ground and draws water through a suction hose. A submersible pump is fully submerged below the water level and pushes the water upwards. This seemingly small difference has a huge practical impact – a submersible pump can handle much greater depths (typically 20–80 m, with top models even more), is not limited by suction height (which with surface pumps physically does not exceed about 7–8 m), and operates more quietly, as the motor is underground and submerged in water.

If you are interested in a detailed comparison of both concepts, read our article Surface vs. submersible water pumping system: which is better for my water source? in the Knowledge Center.

What depth of well or borehole can a submersible pump handle?

This is one of the first questions every interested person asks. The answer depends on the specific model of the pump and its hydraulic characteristics – the key parameter is the so-called delivery head (total manometric pressure, given in meters of water column or in bars).

Practically speaking: if a pump specifies a maximum delivery head of 40 m, in a typical application (submersion 20 m + water delivery to the house 8 m + pressure in the network about 3 bar = another ~30 m), the working head increases quickly. Therefore, for deeper wells and boreholes, pumps with higher power and delivery head are selected.

For example, Home water pumping system with submersible pump 3 SQIBO – 0.75 / 50l for water from a well and borehole is designed precisely for deeper boreholes, where the 0.55 kW version is no longer sufficient. The difference between 0.55 kW and 0.75 kW may seem small on paper, but in practice it can mean the difference between a functional system and a pump that is operating at 80% capacity and overheating.

As an approximate overview, these values are typical (for 3" submersible pumps):

Pump power	Typical max. delivery head	Suitable for source depth	Typical flow rate at 30 m head
0.37 kW	25–35 m	up to 15 m	30–40 l/min
0.55 kW	40–55 m	15–30 m	40–55 l/min
0.75 kW	50–70 m	25–45 m	50–70 l/min
1.1 kW	70–90 m	40–65 m	60–90 l/min

More about selecting the right power can be found in the article What pump power do I need for a home water pumping system?

What diameter of well or borehole do I need for a submersible pump?

Submersible pumps are produced in several size ranges, marked in inches according to the outer diameter of the stator. The most common for home water pumping systems are pumps of class 3" (three inches), which corresponds to an outer diameter of about 72–76 mm. For their installation, a borehole or well with a minimum inner diameter of 90–100 mm (ideally at least 100 mm) is required, so that the pump can be lowered and at the same time water can circulate around it to cool the motor.

In the case of dug wells (usually diameter 800–1200 mm) or concrete rings, this is usually not a problem. Problems arise with old narrow boreholes (diameter 76 mm or less), where a 3" pump simply cannot fit down. In such cases, it is necessary to either choose a smaller pump size or to enlarge the borehole.

A detailed overview can be found in the article What diameter of a borehole or well do I need for a 3" submersible pump?

What is a pressure tank and why is it part of every water supply system?

A pressure tank (hydrophore, membrane tank) is a pressure-tight metal tank divided internally by a flexible membrane. On one side of the membrane is air (pre-charged to a certain pressure), and on the other side, water from the pump is pressed. The air is compressed depending on how much water enters the tank, and after closing the water outlet, it maintains pressure in the system even without the pump running.

Why is this important? Without a pressure tank, the pump would start and stop every time a tap is opened – even for minimal water withdrawal (e.g., flushing a toilet). This so-called short cycling is extremely harmful to the pump motor: overheating, wear of starting capacitors, and reduced lifespan. A pressure tank with a volume of 50 liters (which is standard for most domestic water supply systems in this category) is able to cover typical water withdrawal peaks without starting the pump and protects it from an excessive number of starts.

Standard settings for a 50-liter tank: pre-charge air pressure 1.5 bar, pump start pressure (Pmin) 2.0 bar, pump stop pressure (Pmax) 3.5 bar. This gives the pump a working pressure range of 1.5 bar, and the tank can cover approximately 12–18 liters of usable water volume (depending on the specific pressure settings).

More information can be found in the article Pressure tank in a domestic water supply system: what it is and how to set it up?

Is water from a well via a water supply system potable?

This is a sensitive and important question. A water supply system with a submersible pump is only a transport system – the pump does not treat the water, it only pumps it. Potable water must meet the requirements of Government Regulation No. 97/2023 Coll. on requirements for potable water (in accordance with the European Directive 2020/2184/EU). These requirements relate to microbiological, chemical, and physical properties.

If you plan to use water from a well or borehole for drinking, cooking, and hygiene, it is essential to have the water tested in an accredited laboratory. Ideally, this should be done before selecting the water supply system, preferably during the overall system planning. The analysis will reveal whether the water contains elevated levels of nitrates, manganese, iron, hardness, or microbiological contamination – and based on the results, a decision is made on the installation of filtration or water treatment.

Pumps marked as "for potable water" (e.g., Domáca vodáreň s ponorným čerpadlom 3 SQIBO – 0,55 / 50l na pitnú vodu do studne or Domáca vodáreň s ponorným čerpadlom 3Ti-20 / 50l – RTS na pitnú vodu do studne a vrtu) are made from materials approved for contact with potable water – stainless steel, food-grade plastic. This is a condition, not a guarantee of the water quality itself.

Extended information on this topic is available in the article Potable water from a well via a water supply system: what must the system and pump meet?

What does the abbreviation RTS mean on some water supply system models?

RTS (or sometimes labeled as "dry run protection") is an electronic protection of the pump against dry running. In practice, it works by an electronic sensor monitoring the water flow or pressure – if it drops below a set value (indicating that the well is almost empty or the pipe is not filled), the pump automatically turns off and after a certain time (usually 3–15 minutes), it attempts to restart.

Dry running is fatal for submersible pumps – because the motor is cooled by the flowing water around it. When water is absent, the motor overheats and the windings burn out. A fuse or circuit breaker will not save it, as the pump consumes less current in this state than during normal operation. Therefore, RTS protection is truly important, not just a marketing addition.

Models such as Domáca vodáreň s ponorným čerpadlom IBO 3 SDM24 / 50l – RTS na vodu do studne have this protection integrated directly into the control electronics of the water supply system and are therefore suitable especially where the water source's yield is uncertain or where water is drawn intensively (garden, cleaning equipment).

What is the difference between a drinking water pump and an irrigation pump?

The basic difference lies in the materials from which the pump is made and in the certification. Pumps intended for drinking water must have all parts coming into contact with water made from materials certified for food use – typically AISI 304 or AISI 316 stainless steel, or special types of plastics (polyamide, POM). These materials do not transfer heavy metals or other undesirable substances into the water.

Pumps intended solely for irrigation, pool filling, or other technical purposes can be made from cheaper metals and plastics that could release unsuitable substances into drinking water – but for their purpose, this is completely sufficient. They are usually cheaper.

Therefore, if you need to supply your home with drinking water, always choose a model certified for potable water. For garden irrigation, pool filling, or utility water (washing, flushing), a technical version will suffice, such as Domáca vodáreň s ponorným čerpadlom SCR-0,50 / 50l do studne, na závlahu, which is specifically designed for such technical applications.

How many outlets can one home water pump handle?

This depends on the pump's power, the pressure in the system, and of course on how many outlets are open at the same time. As a rough rule of thumb: one outlet (tap, shower) requires about 6–10 liters per minute. A home water pump with a 0.55 kW motor achieves a flow rate of about 30–40 l/min at a working pressure of 3 bar – this covers 3–4 simultaneously open outlets.

In practice, for a typical family home (4–5 people, kitchen, 2 bathrooms, garden tap), a water pump with a 0.55–0.75 kW motor is usually sufficient. Problems arise when you add an automatic irrigation system with multiple zones or devices with high instantaneous water demand (hydro-massage bath, steam boiler). In such cases, it is advisable to either choose a more powerful pump or add a larger expansion tank.

What to do if the water pump does not pump or loses pressure?

Malfunctions of a home water pump can have a whole range of causes – from trivial (a cracked membrane in the pressure tank, lost air) to more serious (clogged pump, damaged membrane from the probe, motor failure). The most common causes and their diagnosis:

The pump is running, but the pressure is low or unstable: Check the pre-charge air pressure in the pressure tank. The correct pre-charge pressure should be 0.2–0.3 bar lower than the set starting pressure. If it is zero, the membrane is likely cracked and the tank needs to be replaced.
The pump starts every 2–3 seconds (chattering): A classic symptom of a discharged pressure tank or a completely missing membrane. It may also be a leak in the piping.
The pump is running, but no water is flowing: Check whether the pump is sufficiently submerged, whether the water level in the well has dropped, or whether the pump’s discharge filter is clogged.
The pump does not start at all: Electrical fault – pressure switch, fuse, capacitor, or a safety cut-out (RTS, if present).
The water is cloudy or smells: This is not a pump fault, but a problem with water quality or contamination of the source.

A detailed diagnostic procedure can be found in the article Domáca vodáreň nečerpá alebo stráca tlak: príčiny a riešenia.

How to install a submersible pump in a well and what do you need for it?

Installing a home water pump with a submersible pump is not rocket science, but it requires a systematic approach and the right materials. Basic steps:

Preparation of the well or borehole: Cleanliness, sufficient diameter, and verification of the water level (static and dynamic).
Selection of the pump installation depth: The pump should be placed at least 1–2 m below the dynamic water level (the level during full pumping), but also at least 0.5–1 m above the bottom of the well (to avoid sediment intake).
Connecting the discharge piping: Most commonly a PE (polyethylene) hose dimensioned for the system’s working pressure, typically 6–10 bar. A threaded coupling and Teflon tape are applied to the pump thread. The piping is led through the well shaft, best through a flanged cover.
Suspending the pump: Never on the discharge hose alone! The pump is suspended using a stainless steel rope (stainless steel), anchored to the well cover. The electrical cable is tied to the hose and rope with cable ties every 1.5–2 m.
Electrical connection: Ideally via a separate residual current device (RCD) and a circuit breaker dimensioned for the pump’s power. The electrical connection must meet the standards for outdoor environments.
Connecting the pressure tank, pressure switch, and expansion valve.
System venting, pressure setting, and test operation.

The complete step-by-step procedure with photos and dimensions is in the article Installation of a home water pump system step by step.

How long will a home submersible pump last?

With proper installation, good quality water (without abrasive particles), and respect for technical parameters, a standard submersible pump in a home water system can operate for 8–15 years without major service intervention. In practice, the lifespan is strongly influenced by three factors:

Number of starts per day: Each start puts the most strain on the motor (high starting current). A properly set pressure tank minimizes the number of starts – ideally under 20–30 starts per day. Systems without a functional pressure tank can have hundreds of starts daily, and the pump may last less than 2 years.
Water quality: Water with high sand or abrasive mineral content wears down the pump impeller. In such cases, it is necessary to install a sand filter or sedimentation pit before the pump (or after the well).
Protection against dry running: A single dry start without protection can destroy the pump for several times the cost of an RTS dry-run protection device.

How to maintain a home water pump system and what to check regularly?

A home water pump system is essentially low-maintenance, but it is not completely maintenance-free. Recommended annual service plan:

Every 3 months: Visual inspection of the pressure tank (no corrosion, no condensation), verification of the pressure switch setting, and listening to the pump sounds during operation.
Every 6 months: Measuring the air pressure in the pressure tank using a pressure gauge (when the tank is empty = pump is off and water is drained from the tank). The pressure can be topped up with a standard air pump on a Schrader valve (same as on tires).
Once a year: Microbiological water analysis, if the water is used for drinking. Inspection of the electrical installation – fuses, residual current device (RCD), cable condition.
Every 2–3 years: Remove the pump from the well, check the condition of the inlet hose and rope, clean the suction filter (if present), and inspect the connecting materials.

A comprehensive overview of service tasks can be found in the article Maintenance and service of a home water pump system: what and how often to check?

Can I operate a water pump system with a submersible pump all year round in an unheated cabin?

This is an area where many mistakes are made. The submersible pump itself – since it is constantly submerged – is not at risk of freezing. The problematic part is the rest of the system: the pressure tank, pressure switch, piping leading into the building, and fixtures in the unheated room.

If the cabin is not winterized and the system is not drained, the water will freeze in the pipes, inside the pressure tank, or in the fixtures – and these will always burst when they cannot move past the freezing point. The resulting damage can be several times higher than the cost of the entire water pump system.

Solutions for seasonal buildings:

Install a drain valve at the lowest point of the system and drain the system before each winter.
Use compressed air blowing through the piping system (more reliable than passive draining).
Place the pressure tank and switch in a heated or thermally insulated shaft.
Electric heating tapes on sensitive pipe sections – suitable more for cabins with occasional winter visits.

What is the difference between a standard and frequency-controlled water pump system?

A standard water pump system (on/off control) operates on a simple principle: the pump runs at full power or stops. The pressure in the system fluctuates between the minimum (start) and maximum (stop) settings of the pressure switch – typically between 2.0 and 3.5 bar.

A frequency-controlled water pump system (also called a water pump with a frequency inverter or inverter pump system) uses electronics to regulate the pump speed to maintain a constant pressure in the system – for example, exactly 3.0 bar regardless of how many fixtures are open. The advantages are clear: elimination of pressure fluctuations, significantly fewer pump starts, longer lifespan, quieter operation, and lower current surge at startup (soft-start). The disadvantage is a higher purchase price.

For a typical family home with standard water consumption, on/off control with a well-tuned 50-liter tank is fully sufficient. An inverter system is worth considering for larger homes, large gardens, or for sensitivity to pressure fluctuations (hydro-massage, irrigation systems requiring constant pressure).

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Must the pump always be fully submerged, or is partial submersion enough?

A submersible pump must always be fully submerged in the water being pumped – including the motor. The motor is cooled by water flowing around its outer casing. If the motor is only partially submerged, cooling is insufficient and the motor will overheat. Therefore, the pump is placed with sufficient safety margin below the dynamic water level, at least 1–2 meters. In case of doubts about the water source yield, it is recommended to install dry-run protection (RTS).

What if my well is less than 5 meters deep? Can I still use a submersible pump?

Yes, submersible pumps can be used in shallow wells – there is no minimum depth required for the pump to function. The key is that the water level is deep enough to keep the pump fully submerged even during maximum pumping. In practice, a submersible pump is fully usable with a static water level of 3–4 meters and a yield of at least 0.3 l/s. In shallow wells with high water levels (1–2 meters below ground), a surface pump with a suction hose may be a simpler solution.

Can I connect a larger pump than recommended to one pressure tank (hydro-pneumatic station)?

This is not a good idea. The pressure tank is designed for a specific range of flow rates and pressures. If the pump delivers more water than the tank can store, the system will short-cycle (frequent short starts) – which damages the pump. Each water pump model has the pump and tank dimensioned as a complete unit. If you want higher performance, choose a higher-rated water pump system with a matching tank, or add external storage tanks.

The water pump works, but the water from the well is slightly yellow and smells of sulfur – what to do?

This is not a pump failure – it is a water quality issue. Yellow coloring indicates elevated iron or manganese content, and the sulfur smell indicates the presence of sulfides (result of anaerobic bacteria in depth). The solution is to install an appropriate water treatment system – an air venting filter for iron/manganese in case of yellowing, an oxidation filter or UV lamp for biological contamination. This is a filtration issue, not the pump itself. We recommend starting with an accredited water analysis and consulting filter selection based on the results.

Can I run the water pump continuously during long-term pumping (e.g., filling a pool for several hours)?

Submersible pumps are designed for continuous operation – this is their advantage over surface pumps, which can overheat. As long as the pump remains submerged in water (the water level does not drop below the motor) and there is no dry running, it can run continuously for 8–12 hours without problems. Monitor the well yield – if the water level starts to drop, either reduce the flow or install a timer. For intensive garden/pool use, a suitable option is Home water pump system SCR-0,50 / 50l designed for garden and irrigation applications.

What electrical power do I need to ensure for the water pump and can I plug it into a standard 230 V socket?

Most home water pumps in the 0.37–0.75 kW category operate on single-phase 230 V / 50 Hz power, so a standard socket is sufficient in terms of voltage. However, two things are important: first, the starting current of the pump is 3–5 times higher than the rated operating current, so fuses and circuit breakers must be dimensioned with a reserve. For a 0.75 kW pump (rated current ~3.5 A), a minimum 10 A circuit breaker is recommended, ideally 16 A with characteristic C. Second, regulations require a residual current device (RCD) with 30 mA sensitivity for outdoor and wet environments. We recommend entrusting the electrical installation to an electrician.

Conclusion: Submersible water pump as a reliable basis for autonomous water supply

A home water pump with a submersible pump is a proven and reliable technology that, when properly selected, installed and with minimal maintenance, serves for years without major concerns. It is crucial not to underestimate the selection phase – measure the water level depth, determine the source yield, perform a water analysis, and only then choose a specific model with appropriate performance, protections and certification.

If you are still considering which type of water pump and what performance is suitable for your specific water source, read first our guide articles How to choose a home water pump: well, borehole or surface source? and What pump performance do I need for a home water pump? – these two articles will help you make the most important decisions even before the actual purchase.

An overview of available models can be found directly in the category Home Water Pumps, where products are divided according to performance, borehole depth and purpose (drinking water / technical water / irrigation). Each product lists complete technical specifications including the hydraulic curve, so you can verify whether the pump covers your specific case – suction depth, required flow rate and operating pressure.

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Having trouble deciding or dealing with a specific situation in your household? Write to us – we are happy to help.