Step-by-step installation of a home water well with a submersible pump

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Installation of a home water pump with a submersible pump step by step

A private water source – a well or a borehole – is for many households in Slovakia more than just a backup solution. It is a full-fledged primary source of drinking or utility water, which, when properly installed, works reliably for decades. Despite this, I repeatedly see the same mistakes: a pump placed at an unsuitable depth, a pressure tank set up blindly, piping without air venting, or an electrical panel without protection. These errors are not dramatic until a problem occurs – and then they become very dramatic.

I wrote this guide with specific numbers, specific situations, and the same questions I receive from customers. We will go through the entire process from the decision of what to buy, through the physical installation, electrical wiring, pressure setting, to the first start-up and testing. I assume you have a well or borehole, you know roughly its flow rate and depth, and you want to know how to put it all together correctly.

What is a home water pump with a submersible pump and how does it differ from a surface pump?

A home water pump with a submersible pump is a system in which the pump itself operates directly under the water level – submerged in the well or borehole. It pushes water up through the discharge pipe into a pressure tank located, for example, in a utility room, and from there further into the household distribution system. The entire system is controlled by a pressure switch (pressostat), which turns the pump on and off according to the current pressure in the system.

Unlike a surface pump (where the pump is above ground and "pulls" water through a suction hose), a submersible solution has a crucial advantage: it is not limited by suction height. A surface pump cannot realistically operate at depths greater than 6–8 meters. A submersible pump can handle dozens of meters without problems. If you have a deep well or a borehole over 7–8 meters, a submersible pump is the only sensible choice. You can read more about this topic in the article Surface vs. submersible water pump: which is better for my water source?

What you will need before installation – list of materials and tools

Experience shows that most complications during installation do not arise from a lack of knowledge of the procedure, but from the fact that something is missing and the installer has to improvise on the fly. Here is an overview of what you will prepare before you bring anything to the site:

Main components of the water pump system

Submersible pump – with parameters matching the depth and diameter of the source, the required flow rate, and the discharge height. For a typical family well or 3" borehole, typical pumps are 0.55–0.75 kW. For example, home water pump with submersible pump 3 SQIBO - 0.55 / 50l is suitable for less deep wells with drinking water, while model 3 SQIBO - 0.75 / 50l can handle greater depths and boreholes.
Pressure tank – usually 50 liters for a typical household (part of a complete water pump system), 80–100 liters for a larger household or irrigation.
Pressure switch (pressostat) – standard setting range of 1.5–3.5 bar, or 2–4 bar.
Pressure gauge – for visual pressure monitoring in the system.
Check valve – prevents backflow of water when the pump is stopped (very important for deep sources).

Piping and fittings

PE (polyethylene) pipe PN 10 or PN 16, diameter 25 mm (1") or 32 mm (1¼") according to the pump discharge – usually 25 mm is sufficient for a discharge length of up to 30–40 m
Stainless steel or plastic couplings for extending the cable and pipe
Well cover (cap) – watertight, prevents dirt from entering
Pass-through fitting through the well cover for the pipe and cable
Suspension rope (stainless steel wire or nylon) – never hang the pump only on the pipe or cable
Clips or clamps for securing the cable to the pipe every 1–1.5 m
Brass or stainless steel fittings (elbows, T-pieces, reducers) for connecting in the distribution box

Tools

Adjustable wrenches and pliers, keys (socket and fixed), sealing tape (teflon)
Welding tool for PE pipe (polyfusion) or crimping equipment for PEX
Multimeter, circuit breaker and protective circuit breaker (FI/RCD 30 mA)
Tape measure or measuring tape (for measuring the depth of the water level in the well)
Plastic cable ties for securing the cable
Water level, drill, anchors in concrete (for securing the pressure tank)

Step 1 – Measuring the depth of the source and the water level

Before ordering any pump, you must know two numbers: the total depth of the well or borehole and the depth of the static water level (i.e., where the water normally stands without pumping). These two values determine where you will place the pump and what discharge (manometric height) the pump must overcome.

You can measure the static water level in a simple way: tie a light float or piece of wood to a thin cable or rope, lower it slowly, and when you feel it hit the water (it becomes heavier), read the length. A more accurate method is to use a water level meter with an electrical contact – so-called water level sensor. In most family wells in Slovakia, the static water level is at 3–10 meters, in deep artesian boreholes it can be 20–50 meters.

Rule for pump placement: the pump must be at least 0.5–1 m above the bottom of the source (to avoid silt and sediments) and at the same time at least 2–3 m below the dynamic water level (which drops during pumping). If you do not know the dynamic water level, place the pump at least 3 m below the static water level.

Read more about selecting the correct pump power in the article What pump power do I need for my home water supply?, and if you are considering the well diameter, also see What well or borehole diameter do I need for a 3" submersible pump?

Step 2 – Preparation of the well and the wellhead cover

The wellhead cover serves two purposes: it mechanically protects the well entrance (from dirt, rodents, and rainwater) and it is the place through which the pipe and electrical cable pass. Proper installation of the wellhead cover is just as important as the pump itself – I have seen cases where a perfectly installed water supply contaminated drinking water simply because the wellhead was insufficiently sealed.

The wellhead cover must be:

Firmly anchored and sealed – without gaps where rainwater or insects could enter
Equipped with pipe and cable pass-throughs – rubber pass-throughs sealed with sealing compound or clamps
Accessible – not concreted in, it should be possible to open it without breaking (in case of pump replacement)
Protected against frost – if the lid is above ground level, insulate it, or place it below the frost level (at least 80 cm below ground)

Pass-throughs for the pipe and cable are sealed with rubber flanges or crimped reducers. A 25 mm PE pipe passes through the lid and continues either directly down to the pump (if the depth is short), or connects to another section of pipe at the wellhead using a mechanical coupling.

Step 3 – Preparation of the pump and installation of the check valve

Before lowering the pump into the well, check the following: whether it is not mechanically damaged (from impacts during transport), whether all screws are tightened and the flange is clean. Install a check valve on the pump discharge – it may be part of the pump or installed directly above it. The check valve is crucial: it prevents water from flowing back from the pipe into the well, thus protecting the pump from unwanted operation (water hammer) and at the same time maintains the water column in the pipe, keeping the system under pressure.

Attach the PE pipe neck to the discharge check valve – usually using a threaded or crimped coupling with a 1" thread transition. The connection must be tight; use Teflon tape on the threads. If the pumping depth is greater than 20–25 m, I recommend using PN 16 PE pipe (thicker walls, higher pressure), for smaller depths PN 10 is sufficient.

Secure the pump's electrical cable to the pipe using plastic clamps every 1–1.5 m. Never let the cable hang freely – a hanging cable can get caught and damaged. If the cable is shorter than the installation depth (which happens with deep boreholes), it needs to be extended – exclusively using waterproof cable connectors for submersible pumps, not regular electrical junction boxes.

Attach a lifting rope – stainless steel or nylon – to the top part of the assembly (pipe + cable). This rope will carry the entire weight of the pump (usually 5–15 kg), so it must have sufficient strength (minimum load capacity 100–200 kg). Secure the rope to the wellhead cover.

Step 4 – Lowering the pump into the well

Lowering is a two-person job – one holds the assembly and checks the depth, the other slowly unwinds the pipe and cable. Procedure:

Assemble the components (pump + pipe + cable + rope) with clamps in advance on the ground – prepare sections of 5–6 m
Start lowering – the pipe and cable pass through the opening in the wellhead cover
Add another section after each pipe section – by fusion or mechanical coupling
Check the depth using a tape measure or measuring string – the pump must reach the planned position
Once the planned depth is reached, secure the rope to the wellhead cover (stainless steel clamp or hook)
Secure and seal the pipe through the wellhead
Route the cable out and secure it with a rubber pass-through

Important: after lowering the pump, never let its weight be carried by the pipe or cable. Always only by the rope. The pipe and cable are only "passengers" – their function is to carry water and electricity, not to carry weight.

Step 5 – Connecting the pipe to the pressure system

From the top of the wellhead cover, the PE pipe continues underground (laid at a minimum depth of 80 cm below ground level – below the frost level) to the technical room or basement, where the pressure system is located. The underground pipe must not be mechanically stressed – lay it with a slight wave (compensation for thermal expansion).

The pressure system consists of:

Pressure tank (membrane type, pre-pressurized with air) – e.g. 50 l
Pressure switch – turns the pump on/off
Pressure gauge – pressure monitoring
Drain valve – for draining the system during maintenance
Main shut-off valve

The pressure tank is connected to the pump discharge pipe using a T-piece, as well as the pressure switch and pressure gauge. I recommend concentrating all components into a compact block (manifold) – a more organized installation, easier maintenance. Seal all threads with Teflon, tighten all connections firmly, but without over-tightening.

Step 6 – Electrical Connection and Pump Protection

The electrical part is an area where improvisation is not advisable. A submersible pump operates in a water environment and is powered from the electrical grid – any mistake can cause electric shock or damage the pump. If you are unsure, leave the electrical part to a qualified electrician.

Basic principles of electrical connection:

Supply with a dedicated circuit from the distribution board, min. 16A (for pumps up to 1.1 kW), protected by a residual current device (RCD/FI) with tripping current 30 mA
Earthing – the pump must be properly earthed; the pump cable usually has a green-yellow core, which you connect to the PE terminal
Pressure switch (pressostat) is connected to the pump supply – when the pressure drops below the set minimum, the switch closes the circuit and the pump turns on; when the pressure reaches the maximum, the circuit is opened
Dry-run protection – very important for deep wells with low yield. Either as part of the control module (some water systems have it built-in), or as an external module (water level sensor or current relay)
Motor protection or thermal relay – mandatory for motors above 0.75 kW and for three-phase pumps

Many modern water systems, for example home water system IBO 3 SDM24 / 50l - RTS or water system 3Ti-20 / 50l - RTS, have an integrated RTS control module (pressure control system) – this module replaces the classic pressostat, includes dry-run protection, soft start and frequency regulation. Installation is then simpler and the system runs more smoothly.

Step 7 – Setting the Pressure Tank and Pressostat

This is a step that is most often neglected or done "by eye", and then people deal with pressure issues or too frequent pump switching. Proper setting takes only a few minutes, but will save years of trouble-free operation.

The pressure tank contains an air chamber separated by a membrane from the water. The pre-charge air pressure must be set BEFORE filling the system with water, and must be 0.2–0.3 bar lower than the pump's switching pressure (P1).

Example setting for a typical household:

Switch-on pressure of the pressostat P1 = 1.5 bar → pre-charge pressure = 1.2–1.3 bar
Switch-off pressure of the pressostat P2 = 3.0 bar
Operating range = 1.5 – 3.0 bar (when pressure drops to 1.5 bar, the pump turns on, at 3.0 bar it turns off)

The pre-charge pressure is measured with a standard pump with a manometer via an air valve (Schrader valve, same as in a bicycle tire) at the bottom of the pressure tank. If the pre-charge pressure is too high, the membrane chamber cannot be properly inflated with water → small effective volume → the pump switches very often. If the pre-charge pressure is too low, the chamber can be compressed to zero → water can leak out through the air valve. Read more about this topic in the article Pressure tank in a home water system: what it is for and how to set it up?

Step 8 – First Start and System Testing

Before the first start, check once again all pipe connections (dry, no water traces), tighten all fittings, check electrical connections and fuses. Then:

Open the air vent valve on the pressure tank or at the highest point of the system – when water flows out without bubbles, the system is de-aerated
Turn on the pump – you should hear the motor sound (quiet for submersible pumps, louder for surface pumps). If it is silent, check the electrical connection and fuses
Watch the manometer – pressure should slowly rise. If it rises too fast (jumps), something is wrong with the pre-charge pressure in the tank. If it does not rise at all, the pump is not pumping
Let the system reach the cut-off pressure – the pump will turn off automatically. Wait 2–3 minutes and watch whether the pressure holds. If it drops, there is a leak or the check valve is damaged
Open a tap for water withdrawal – pressure should drop to P1 and the pump should turn on again. Repeat this cycle 3–4 times and check everything is in order
Check all connections – once again, by hand, after the first pressurization

It is normal for some cloudy water to flow from the taps during the first start – the well or borehole will "clean itself" after a few minutes of pumping. Do not use the water from the first start for drinking – let it flow to the side and flush the system after cleaning.

Potable Water and Hygienic Requirements

If you plan to use the water system for drinking water (not just for garden and toilet), the system and the water must meet certain requirements. First of all:

The pump must be suitable for potable water – materials in contact with water must be made of approved materials (stainless steel, food-grade plastic). For example water system 3 SQIBO - 0.55 / 50l is certified for potable water
The water must be tested – microbiologically and chemically. Without analysis, we cannot know if it is suitable for drinking
The main well cover must be airtight – no infiltration of surface water
Underground piping must be food-grade PE, not technical PE
For garden and irrigation purposes, technical quality is sufficient – for example water system SCR-0.50 / 50l intended for irrigation and garden use

For information on drinking water conditions and pump certification, read more in the article Drinking water from a well via a water supply system: what must the system and pump meet? and How to choose a home water supply system: well, borehole or surface source?

Common installation errors and how to avoid them

Over the years I have seen dozens of installations – good and problematic ones. Here are the most common errors:

Pump too close to the bottom – it sucks in mud and sediment, which quickly damages the impeller. Always at least 1 m from the bottom.
Pump suspended on a cable or pipe – over time, the connection becomes fatigued or the pipe detaches. Always use a suspension rope.
Missing check valve – when the pump stops, water flows back into the well, and the pump always starts from zero → frequent switching, wear and tear.
Incorrect pre-pressure in the tank – the most common cause of "fluctuating" pressure and too frequent pump switching.
Pipes above the frost line in the ground – they will freeze and crack in winter. Minimum depth is 80 cm below ground level.
Lack of dry-run protection – the well runs out of water, the pump runs dry and overheats. Dry-run protection is essential if the flow rate is below 500 l/h.
Inappropriate pump type for the given borehole diameter – a 3" (76 mm) borehole requires a pump of max. 72 mm – always check the dimensions. More in the article What borehole or well diameter do I need for a 3" submersible pump?

Maintenance of the water supply system after installation

Installing a water supply system is not the end of the story. Regular maintenance extends the life of the entire system. Basic tasks:

Once a year: check the air pressure in the pressure tank (using a pump with a pressure gauge), check the tightness of all connections, inspect the well head cover
Every 2–3 years: have the well water tested (microbiology + chemistry), check the condition of the membrane in the pressure tank (if the tank is heavy without water, the membrane may be damaged)
As needed: clean the well (sediment, leaves, sludge) – by a professional well service company
Before winter: if the water supply is in an unheated area, drain the system or ensure the space is heated

For a full overview of maintenance, see the article Maintenance and service of a home water supply system: what and how often to check?

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Can I install a submersible pump myself or do I need a professional?

The mechanical installation (lowering the pump, connecting the pipes, setting up the pressure tank) can be done by a skilled DIY enthusiast. Electrical connections should be carried out or at least checked by a qualified electrician – it's not just a matter of safety, but also insurance and possible warranty on the device. If you are unsure about anything, consult a specialist.

How deep below the water level must the pump be submerged?

At least 2–3 m below the static water level, ideally 3–5 m. The pump must always be submerged – even at maximum drawdown (dynamic level). At the same time, at least 0.5–1 m above the bottom of the source. If you don't know the dynamic level, choose a more conservative placement (deeper).

The pump turns on and off very often – what is wrong?

This is a classic sign of incorrect air pressure setting in the pressure tank (usually too high pre-pressure → small effective water volume in the tank). Drain the system, check and set the pre-pressure (it should be 0.2–0.3 bar below the cut-in pressure of the pressure switch) and refill. It could also be a damaged membrane – in that case, the tank must be replaced. More in the article Home water supply system does not pump or loses pressure: causes and solutions.

What is the difference between a water supply system with an RTS module and a classic pressure switch?

A classic pressure switch is a simple mechanical switch – it turns the pump on and off at fixed pressure values. RTS (pressure control system) is an electronic module that, in addition to switching, also ensures a soft start (motor-friendly), dry-run protection, and sometimes frequency control of the speed. The result is quieter operation, less wear and longer life. Models such as water supply system 3Ti-20 / 50l - RTS or IBO 3 SDM24 RTS have this system built in.

Do I need to filter the water from the well before use?

It depends on the water quality – and you can't know that without analysis. If the water from the borehole or well is intended for drinking, I always recommend doing an analysis first. Common problems: elevated iron and manganese (solution: oxidation filter), hardness (softener), bacterial contamination (UV sterilizer or chlorination). For garden use and toilet flushing, filtration is usually not necessary, a coarse mechanical filter before the system input is sufficient.

Can a submersible pump operate in a well with a small diameter (e.g., a hand-dug well 80 cm in diameter)?

Yes, in a hand-dug well with an internal diameter of 80 cm or more, you can use a standard 3" submersible pump (maximum diameter 72 mm). The problem may be the yield of the hand-dug well – its volume is large, but the inflow is usually lower than that of a borehole. If the yield is below 500 l/h, install dry-run protection. In hand-dug wells with a diameter of over 100 cm, larger diameter pumps (4" or 6") can also be used. More on borehole and well diameters in the article What borehole or well diameter do I need for a 3" submersible pump?

Conclusion: what determines the reliability of the entire water supply system

Installing a home water supply system with a submersible pump is not rocket science, but it does require precision, the correct sequence of steps, and respect for physical laws. From experience, I know that systems that run without problems for 15–20 years do not differ in expensive components – they differ in the fact that someone took care to measure the depth correctly, placed the pump correctly, set the pre-pressure correctly, and did not underestimate dry-run protection.

Investing in quality components also pays off. Complete water supply systems with a submersible pump, pressure switch and pressure tank can be purchased as a single unit – you save time on selecting compatible components and usually also money compared to assembling from individual parts. An overview of current models can be found directly in the category Home Water Supply Systems, where products are sorted by performance and purpose.

And if while reading this article you came across something that does not apply to your specific situation – for example, you have a very shallow well or you are dealing exclusively with garden irrigation – I recommend also checking out other articles in the knowledge center: Common questions about home water supply systems with submersible pumps or Home water supply system does not pump or loses pressure: causes and solutions. Every case is a bit different, but the principle remains the same: the right water, the right pump, the right installation.

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